Sound Proofing and deadening

['89_Wagon]

Got a new carpet and sill plates from BJs and am very excited to install them! I would also like to quiet down the cabin. I have recently added the hood insulator (mine was gone) and have been looking at some stuff from soundproofcow. Some interesting products and info. As a general strategy, I want to address the cargo area first, the cabin second, and then the doors. I might take down the headliner and do something there. I also have noisy tires so that's probably making things much worse than they need to be. Any tips or suggestions?

[Tripwire]

I used 2 layers of Fatmat in my cabin floor and firewall, I also cut a thick sheet of rubber to use as a cargo liner in the rear ( actually stall matting) thick and it looks great and made a huge difference

[SJTD]

Check out Sound Deadener Showdown if it's still around. His theory, supported by testing, is you only need a small percentage of the stick on butyl to take the bong out of the sheet metal. Then a layer of isolating foam, then a layer of rubber.

Must be something to it since the manufacturers like Dynomat are selling the other materials.

['89_Wagon]

Originally Posted by SJTD

Check out Sound Deadener Showdown if it's still around. His theory, supported by testing, is you only need a small percentage of the stick on butyl to take the bong out of the sheet metal. Then a layer of isolating foam, then a layer of rubber.

Must be something to it since the manufacturers like Dynomat are selling the other materials.

Thanks for the tips on the sound deadener website. Lots of good info. I remember reading something like that too about the butyl.

The website is down but available through thewaybackmachine, in case anyone is interested.

https://web.archive.org/web/20190404...tiles%E2%84%A2

[polarfire]

How are you all addressing the doors? Do you put the material on the inside of the outer door skin or on the inside panel behind the upholstered panel? I'm assuming on the inside of the outer skin since that is what makes the echoing sound. How much of the inside of the door needs to be covered to make a difference?

[Cliff]

I used one layer of Dynamat and for a second layer used Frost King, a cheap lined heavy bubble wrap from Home Depot, used for insulating ductwork. It's the same thickness as Dynamat but a fraction of the weight. It is also self adhesive, as easy to apply as Dynamat (and similar products).

[rang-a-stang]

One piece of advice: Before you sound deaden, MAKE SURE you address ALLLlllll the leaks inside your truck. If you drive through a huge puddle, make sure the floors stay dry. If you get a huge down pour, make sure your floors are dry. etc. If you don't, when you sound deaden, those panels can catch water and rust out your floors.

['89_Wagon]

Thanks for the tip about leaks. I just replace the floors this December and really don't want to do that again anytime soon! I made the panels by hand because out of 16 gauge since I couldn't wait for aftermarket panels.... I had a deadline to meet for a vacation.

I do have a leak near the B pillar on the driver's side. I wonder if this is somehow related to the leaking windshield gasket? After noticing the leak, I bought new door seals for that side. I don't think it's the fresh air vent as there's no evidence of it traveling. It really does look like it's originating from the B-pillar

I have not done the doors yet but I believe the coverage is 25% with the panels being centered. I plan to put them on the outer skin and hang a layer of sound blocker between the door card and the door itself.

Working on putting these in at the moment. Cardboard template below. Need to do the cargo area now.

[rang-a-stang]

I just did my tailgate a few weeks ago, too. I used the panel from men_in_black and it is super nice.
http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showp...&postcount=726

I am having a tough time following this:

Originally Posted by '89_Wagon

I do have a leak near the B pillar on the driver's side. I wonder if this is somehow related to the leaking windshield gasket? After noticing the leak, I bought new door seals for that side. I don't think it's the fresh air vent as there's no evidence of it traveling. It really does look like it's originating from the B-pillar

I have not done the doors yet but I believe the coverage is 25% with the panels being centered. I plan to put them on the outer skin and hang a layer of sound blocker between the door card and the door itself.

If it is under the B-Pillar, it definitely wont be the fresh air vent; that puddles down by the drivers and/or passengers heals. If water is pooling under the B-pillar it must be the door seals, roof rack seals, or roof seam (the gutter). My money is on roof rack seals.

For the door, sound deadener will be very thick there and make it hard to install your arm rests, door cards, etc. If you are going to sound proof the inner door skin it is better to put it on the inside of the door skin, then put a moisture barrier up. I used some thick painters plastic for a moisture barrier and taped it to the inner door skin. Leave the bottom tucked into the slit at the bottom and un taped so if water does get to the moisture barrier, it can dribble down and into the door skin to drain out the drain holes.
Here is what I used and it worked really well (I have TONS left over and if you want some, I will send you some if you pay for shipping):
http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showp...&postcount=405
and here is where I installed it:
http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showp...&postcount=396

['89_Wagon]

Is the men in black panel the one that BJ's sells? I purchased a set of panels and installed them. MUCH better than the hardboard. Used 3M spray adhesive on the carpet and barge glue on the vinyl trim edges to adhere everything. Pretty happy with it. That cardboard template above was just to mark where the tailgate strip bolt holes were so I could transfer those marks to the ABS panel. In hindsight, I would have bought the set with the holes pre-drilled. That would have saved a lot of time.

Just thinking through this...the roof rack seals were replaced about 2-3 years ago and the Jeep is kept covered. The door seals were in rough shape and there was a gap in at least two places so that could be it. Would the gutter issue be rust or a crack in that trim piece that runs along the gutter? I may have the wrong place in mind.

Thanks for the tips on the doors!

['89_Wagon]

Thought I would share a photo of the replacement cargo and tailgate strips I got from Jeep Heritage. My tailgate strips were in tough shape and some were just missing. I was not aware of any SS alternatives, but I'm pretty happy with these aluminum ones. I'm mainly worried about scratching them now.

My tailgate panel and rear cargo area was tattered when I picked up my rig. It's great to have this back to its former glory.



Is there a metal strip that clamps the end of the cargo carpet?

[rang-a-stang]

Originally Posted by '89_Wagon

Is the men in black panel the one that BJ's sells? ...

Just thinking through this...the roof rack seals were replaced about 2-3 years ago and the Jeep is kept covered. The door seals were in rough shape and there was a gap in at least two places so that could be it. Would the gutter issue be rust or a crack in that trim piece that runs along the gutter? I may have the wrong place in mind.

Thanks for the tips on the doors!

Not sure. Maybe?

Few thoughts:
1, the roof rack seals are not what they used to be. I replaced mine a couple years ago and within 2 months, 3 of them were compromised and had to be replaced again. I only know this because I do not have a headliner and can see them. I am not trying to say 'these are your problem' but just keep it in mind
2, you are probably right that it was the doors. That makes, by far, the most sense.
3, when the gutter leaks, it's usually either rust through (you would see this) or cracked body sealer. Again, you would probably see this. Just take a look in your gutters and see what they look like. If they look good (not cracked, or missing body sealant pieces), you are probably good.

Originally Posted by '89_Wagon

Thought I would share a photo of the replacement cargo and tailgate strips I got from Jeep Heritage. My tailgate strips were in tough shape and some were just missing. I was not aware of any SS alternatives, but I'm pretty happy with these aluminum ones. I'm mainly worried about scratching them now.

My tailgate panel and rear cargo area was tattered when I picked up my rig. It's great to have this back to its former glory.
..
Is there a metal strip that clamps the end of the cargo carpet?

Nope. no metal strip at the end. I have seen some tailgates with interior screws at the 4 corners but I am not sure if those are factory. If your corners are bowing up, might be worth throwing some screws on. like these:

That looks AWESOME!!! Well done and thanks for sharing!

[jeepman42]

My '85& '90 both have 3/4" aluminum strip @ rear of carpet -almost touches rear cargo/tailgate rubber seal.
Held down by 7 or 8 screws like those shown in post.
Tiny L on rear edge. Could possibly use aluminum flat strip as replacement.
Orig. about 3/32" thick,or less & somewhat fragile.
This is on grand wagoneer ? all models came w it?
Sorry, need to learn pic posting for this site!

[jeepman42]

As Rang said , any thickness behind door cards will make door panel reattachment difficult & panels not fit well on edges.
I used spray on black underbody sound deadener & stick on alum covered rubber from Loew's on inside of door skin(outermost metal). Difficult to place large pieces due to door & window components & size of openings to work thru!
Lastly, any insulation over 1/2" seems to be in the way when reassembling carpets ,seats, or metal strips in cargo area. My '85 taught me a lot about this last year!!