International Full Size Jeep Association
Home Forums Reader's Rigs Tech Library Trail Stories FSJ-List
International Full Size Jeep Association  

Go Back   International Full Size Jeep Association > Tire Kickin' > General FSJ Tech

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1  
Old 11-09-2012, 05:36 PM
DatsunTim's Avatar
DatsunTim DatsunTim is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 18, 2012
Location: Belleville, WI
Posts: 130
Electrical question

A couple weeks ago my Gladiator stranded me. The alt***(see below) was not charging the battery. I found that the connection on the starter relay that had the pos battery cable and the wire from the alt was loose.


I charged the battery, tightened the loose connection and had the alt tested (test was good). The truck started right up. However, I cannot get a reading from the alt above 2.5 (I was under the truck with the meter lead right on the pos alt post and the neg lead grounded…maybe I had the meter set wrong? Still learning but thought I knew how to test an alt….) and the battery gives, at best, 12.55 volts when running. When I turned the truck off right before coming in the battery was giving approx. 11.5 volts.

This afternoon after I put the alt back on the truck and went for a drive all seemed fine. I got home, turned her off and she started right back up. I left it running for a long while with all the lights on and the fan blower. After a while, when turning on the four way flasher, the stock temp gauge was pulsing with the flasher; something I had not seen before.

I have an aftermarket volt meter to put on the truck under the dash but would really like to find out why the temp gauge was pulsing with the flashers and why I could not get a good reading from the alt with my multimeter. I also need to find out if the alt is actually charging the battery.


***This engine (supposedly a recently overhauled AMC 360) has been set up with a one wire alternator that seems to be exactly the same set up as the "GM one wire alt upgrade/mod" that we do to the Datsuns in order to move the alt out from under the exhaust manifold. The battery is a three year old Optima. Not sure is any other engine specs might be needed to help with this issue…………

Thanks all!
tim
__________________
Still clueless but always learning

71 J4600 Gladiator.... The WeeBeasty! that will support my Dattos:

70 Datsun 1600...(bought new my by old man)
70 Datsun 2000...driver
69 Datsun 2000...part car
68 Datsun 1600...future track car gonna get the stroker

Now hooked on FSJs so !# #! gimme another!
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 11-09-2012, 09:38 PM
KC0GFG's Avatar
KC0GFG KC0GFG is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 25, 2012
Location: Clovis N.M.
Posts: 38
quick and easy alt check, tools requied: glove and wrench. first loosen a battry terminal enough so you can giggle it off. then start the truck, put on glove and giggle off the terminal. wait about 30 sec or so. if the truck dies the alt is bad if not replace the terminal.

another way to check is messure to voltage at the battery, should be 12 volts. start the truck and check voltage at the battery, should have gone up usuly around 14volts.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 11-09-2012, 10:04 PM
babywag's Avatar
babywag babywag is offline
out of order
 
Join Date: Jun 08, 2005
Location: Land of froot loops and cukcoo-nuts, CA
Posts: 10,140
A battery should never read below 12v.
Take it in and have it tested, I bet it fails.
Also have the alternator tested.

When working properly you should read ~14.5v w/ engine running.

The low voltage issue on the battery happened to me on several Optima batteries, and why I'll never buy one again.
__________________
Tony
88 GW, 67 J3000, 07 Magnum SRT8
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 11-09-2012, 10:45 PM
Rich88's Avatar
Rich88 Rich88 is offline
FSJ Maniac
 
Join Date: Nov 20, 2008
Location: Wilds of Ellington, CT
Posts: 4,182
Quote:
Originally Posted by DatsunTim
......but would really like to find out why the temp gauge was pulsing with the flashers and why I could not get a good reading from the alt with my multimeter. I also need to find out if the alt is actually charging the battery....... .

Voltage pulsing with the flashers is common and has to do with dozens of connections that have resistance in them. Common on older vehicles. Requires a chalkboard and an hour discussing electrical theory to explain the details. Put it this way: If every connection were perfect AND you have adequate current from the battery, it won't happen.

Checking to see if the alt is charging is simple: Place volt meter across battery terminals. If its higher than 12.5, its charging. If its 12.5 or lower it isn't charging. However, the question may be is it charging enough, or adequately?

First step is always cleaning every connection between the alt and battery before declaring Alt or Battery is a problem. Its going to be one or the other.
__________________
Jeepasaurus (Wagonus Grandi quadropedus)
88 GW 360-.030 over/2150/727/229/Posi, e-pump, AC (broke), tow package, Monroe Air Shocks, TFI, CTO-Free, AIR-free, oil & tranny coolers, dried knuckle blood all over, GM 350 TBI in a box, waiting...
"You're an FSJ'r when the parts guys memorize your name, phone & credit card#."
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 11-09-2012, 11:01 PM
blakeusa's Avatar
blakeusa blakeusa is offline
350 Buick
 
Join Date: Jul 21, 2005
Location: Ashford, CT
Posts: 815
I believe the one wire alternators do not put off much power until the car is running at higher RPM. If you are not driving the car a lot you most likely will need a trickle charger to keep the battery charged.

Also depends on the make/model OUTPUT in Amps of your 1 wire system.

From the PowerMaster Web site

Powermaster early style Delco alternators will work either way - as a one wire or OEM style. The main difference between a one wire and an OEM is the method used to energize or turn on the alternator.

An alternator using the OEM style is turned on with the ignition switch.

The one wire design is energized with a special sensing cicuit built into the internal voltage regulator. This circuit senses the rotation of the alternators rotor. The rotor must turn at sufficient speed to trip the circuit, starting the charging process. This turn-on speed is affected by several things and is typically higher with certain high amperage alternators. Once this circuit is tripped, the alternator will charge at all speeds, even very low ones, until the alternators rotor comes to a complete stop. At that point, the circuit will shut off and wait for the process to be repeated.

What this means for the consumer is that in some applications the engine must be revved to 1200 or 1400 RPMs to turn the one wire alternator on. If the wiring harness is available and this characteristic is annoying, then Powermaster alternators can be plugged in like the stock unit and operated with the ignition switch.
__________________
1971 J4000 Gladiator w/AMC 401 Restoration Project

Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 11-10-2012, 09:50 AM
serehill's Avatar
serehill serehill is offline
Gone,Never Forgotten.
 
Join Date: Nov 22, 2009
Location: Mesquite Texas
Posts: 8,619
Hmm

I've been running a one wire alternator from Powermasters for years & even though they set folks hair on fire they work perfectly. They are no different in function from 3 wire with the exception of the external wiring of the three wire is done internally on the one wire. The 1200 rpm start up means nothing. There's a reason you don't see threads for them because they don't cause many problems & if they aren't charging they are a simple trouble shoot. Although I'm sure they do fail I've never seen one fail. Either the one wire is loose,the belt is loose or the alternator is dead that is it. 10 minute total trouble shoot. On the trail that would be nice. Powermasters don't run generic regulators they build thier own. I have a 225 amp alternator & tons of lighting & a 12k Ramsey winch & my alternator runs them better than any 3 wire I've ever owned. I had & still do have a Western technologies 250 amp (3 WIRE) that cost 3 times more & doesn't work near as well. 600 dollar junk. The one I have now is 3 years old the rumors about they fade & get weaker isn't working either. I've seen all the hype but my experience with them does not resemble the rumors. I know I'm not the only success story on the board others have them too. Notice you have never seen anyone having problems with one & they (Users) are out there. I know of 9 on this site out there. The charging system is anemic on these rigs as proven through thread after thread. A one wire can eliminate them all. I don't have any loose or corroded plugs or deal with any of the other issues because I don't hve any of the stuff that causes them. The alternator wiring consist of 1 wire that runs off the back of the alternator to the positive side of the starter solenoid DONE. A #2 wire capable of carrying tons more power than the stock system.Maybe there are some one wires out there that are causing the downs side from other sellers. I see a lot of one wire theories but not much actual user fact. Simply research theory & look at the wiring it simply does internally what the 3wire does externally. The internet is a wonderful place to find both answers in a debate you can support what ever you wan't to. Fact Racers. Off roaders, Boats use them Go to a dirt track & look at what they use. tou'll see tons of them. Everyone has their theory too. ine is based on years of running these without any of the rumored issues. Funny one of the threads folks use to support the 3 wire theory only sell 3 wires HMMM. The one wire market is huge & it is out there & they do sell. Look at the performance sites like Jegs & similar performance sites they all have them. Go to a hot rod show you see a ton of them & theses guys can afford to buy the best, simplest & best looking. I doubt they would be running the street in their air conditioned roadster with alternators that couldn't keep them running.

Other alternators don't turn on until they get to a certain speed. My 600 dollar Western didn't I don't understand the down side of the turn on point. there are other 3 wires that don't also. it's not exclusive to 1 wires. You can not drive you're vehilcle without hitting the start cycle for the alternator.. If it's a great concern reduce the pulley. It's kind on like saying I'm worried because my oil pump won't work below low 300 rpm. I better get an electric oil pump.
at less than 1,200 rpm so what is the point in that being an issue. I can not get out of my drive way without hitting 1200 rpm. I've yet to understand why this is an issue. I'm open to that answer. Anyone drive their vehicle without going 1.200 rpm?

BTW thw 1 wire is a delco design.

As Blake indicated there's some good info on Powermasters.
http://www.powermastermotorsports.co...ternators.html

Here we Go:0
__________________

80 Cherokee
360 ci 727 with
Comp cams 270 h
NP208
Edlebrock performer intake
Holley 4180
Msd total multi spark.
4" rusty's springs
Member, FSJ Prissy Restoration Association

If you can't make it better why waste your time. No use repeating the orignal mistakes. I'm to old to push it that's why.

Last edited by serehill : 11-10-2012 at 02:22 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 11-10-2012, 12:22 PM
DatsunTim's Avatar
DatsunTim DatsunTim is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 18, 2012
Location: Belleville, WI
Posts: 130
Well, again, I did pull the alt and have it tested. The guy said it spun up to 15 volts just fine. Once back on the truck I increased the RPM to 2000 to check the timing (which I think I still have wrong) so the alt should have been started.

This alt is a one wire from the alt to the positive side of the starter relay. If the starter relay was bad, wouldn't it fail to engage the starter and then not start the truck?

I will double check the grounds but it is a recent restoration of some sort so everything is clean.

This truck was a daily driver pretty much all summer with no issues like this. It is driving me nuts.....

tim
__________________
Still clueless but always learning

71 J4600 Gladiator.... The WeeBeasty! that will support my Dattos:

70 Datsun 1600...(bought new my by old man)
70 Datsun 2000...driver
69 Datsun 2000...part car
68 Datsun 1600...future track car gonna get the stroker

Now hooked on FSJs so !# #! gimme another!
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 11-10-2012, 02:35 PM
serehill's Avatar
serehill serehill is offline
Gone,Never Forgotten.
 
Join Date: Nov 22, 2009
Location: Mesquite Texas
Posts: 8,619
good point I should have incuded in my thread bed grounds are a factor.

A recent restoration brings 2 things to mind. Bad rewiring, bad ground. Assuming everything is OK is the mother of all screw ups. If you have a one wire that is functioning & the post on the back is connected to the solenoid on the Battery side & it's not charging then it's a bad battery or ground.
It might be good to take this thing to an alternator shop although this should be simple it sounds like outside help would be a good idea.
Are you jumping it offf is the battery dying all the time. What is leading you to believe the alternator is not charging?

I can tell you your reading of the alternator @ 2.5 volts is incorrect. The one wire system is connected straight to the battery so the voltage reading should be the same on both ends of the wire that runs from the back of the alternator to the solenoid. The only way you could have good voltage at the battery & 2.5 volts at the alternator is the wire between the solenoid & the alternator is bad.
__________________

80 Cherokee
360 ci 727 with
Comp cams 270 h
NP208
Edlebrock performer intake
Holley 4180
Msd total multi spark.
4" rusty's springs
Member, FSJ Prissy Restoration Association

If you can't make it better why waste your time. No use repeating the orignal mistakes. I'm to old to push it that's why.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 11-10-2012, 04:14 PM
DatsunTim's Avatar
DatsunTim DatsunTim is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 18, 2012
Location: Belleville, WI
Posts: 130
I know the battery is not being charged as it didn't have enough juice to start the truck this morning after letting it run for quite a while yesterday afternoon. When I put the battery charger on it this morning, the gauge was pretty much bottomed out so the battery was just about dead.

I hear what you are saying on not assuming a recent restore means all is good. This being said, this truck was my daily driver pretty much all summer and I had no electrical issues at all.

I don't understand why I cannot get a reading from the alternator (especially after it was tested and said to be good). I charged the battery to full then took it out for a quick drive making sure to get the RPMs up high enough to turn the alt on. I then went home and tried to get a reading from the alt and again got a very low number right from the positive terminal.

Since I have exhausted the little I know how to do in this situation, I am leaning towards having my mechanic take a look at it this week. They are real good about giving me a diagnosis (and not charging me very much at all) and letting my do my own fix knowing I want to learn about and do my work.

I hate electrickery.
__________________
Still clueless but always learning

71 J4600 Gladiator.... The WeeBeasty! that will support my Dattos:

70 Datsun 1600...(bought new my by old man)
70 Datsun 2000...driver
69 Datsun 2000...part car
68 Datsun 1600...future track car gonna get the stroker

Now hooked on FSJs so !# #! gimme another!
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 11-10-2012, 06:46 PM
serehill's Avatar
serehill serehill is offline
Gone,Never Forgotten.
 
Join Date: Nov 22, 2009
Location: Mesquite Texas
Posts: 8,619
right track

Quote:
Originally Posted by DatsunTim
I know the battery is not being charged as it didn't have enough juice to start the truck this morning after letting it run for quite a while yesterday afternoon. When I put the battery charger on it this morning, the gauge was pretty much bottomed out so the battery was just about dead.

I hear what you are saying on not assuming a recent restore means all is good. This being said, this truck was my daily driver pretty much all summer and I had no electrical issues at all.

I don't understand why I cannot get a reading from the alternator (especially after it was tested and said to be good). I charged the battery to full then took it out for a quick drive making sure to get the RPMs up high enough to turn the alt on. I then went home and tried to get a reading from the alt and again got a very low number right from the positive terminal.

Since I have exhausted the little I know how to do in this situation, I am leaning towards having my mechanic take a look at it this week. They are real good about giving me a diagnosis (and not charging me very much at all) and letting my do my own fix knowing I want to learn about and do my work.

I hate electrickery.
previous analysis stil stands bad battery bad wiring or bad alternator assessmant. Good luck. You'll get it.

Since tyou're the first one wire alternator issue I have ever seen let us know what you find it would be interesting.
__________________

80 Cherokee
360 ci 727 with
Comp cams 270 h
NP208
Edlebrock performer intake
Holley 4180
Msd total multi spark.
4" rusty's springs
Member, FSJ Prissy Restoration Association

If you can't make it better why waste your time. No use repeating the orignal mistakes. I'm to old to push it that's why.
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 11-10-2012, 07:26 PM
Rich88's Avatar
Rich88 Rich88 is offline
FSJ Maniac
 
Join Date: Nov 20, 2008
Location: Wilds of Ellington, CT
Posts: 4,182
Quote:
Originally Posted by DatsunTim
...I know the battery is not being charged as it didn't have enough juice to start the truck this morning after letting it run for quite a while yesterday afternoon. When I put the battery charger on it this morning, the gauge was pretty much bottomed out so the battery was just about dead. ....

Wait a minute. If you drove it around, and next morning there was not enough juice to start it, and IF this was because the alt was not charging it, then logically, when you got home and turned it off, you would not have been able to start right back up then. Why wait until morning to see?

You may want to repeat your experiment with the above in mind to verify whether the battery is toast or you're draining over night.
__________________
Jeepasaurus (Wagonus Grandi quadropedus)
88 GW 360-.030 over/2150/727/229/Posi, e-pump, AC (broke), tow package, Monroe Air Shocks, TFI, CTO-Free, AIR-free, oil & tranny coolers, dried knuckle blood all over, GM 350 TBI in a box, waiting...
"You're an FSJ'r when the parts guys memorize your name, phone & credit card#."
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 11-11-2012, 09:33 AM
Carnuck's Avatar
Carnuck Carnuck is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 12, 2011
Location: Gold Bar, WA
Posts: 6,469
Sounds like the alt is hooked to the starter side of the solenoid and not the battery side. It won't engage if that's the case.
__________________
Jeep gauges are for amusement only. Any correlation between them and reality is purely coincidental.
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 11-11-2012, 11:57 AM
DatsunTim's Avatar
DatsunTim DatsunTim is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 18, 2012
Location: Belleville, WI
Posts: 130
"Sounds like the alt is hooked to the starter side of the solenoid..."

If this were the case, then I would expect to have had probolems this past summer since this truck was a daily driver most of the summer as I said before.

"or you're draining over night"

I lean away from this since it started right up this morning.

I do still need to have the battery tested.
__________________
Still clueless but always learning

71 J4600 Gladiator.... The WeeBeasty! that will support my Dattos:

70 Datsun 1600...(bought new my by old man)
70 Datsun 2000...driver
69 Datsun 2000...part car
68 Datsun 1600...future track car gonna get the stroker

Now hooked on FSJs so !# #! gimme another!
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 11-11-2012, 12:19 PM
WHSII's Avatar
WHSII WHSII is offline
Hack-Priss
 
Join Date: Feb 06, 2010
Location: Frankfort, KY
Posts: 1,804
I did not see this mentioned...

If you take the pos battery terminal off and hook up an amp meter, in series, with everything turned off, see if there is a drain.

You must make sure everything electric is turned off. Cab lights, radio, under hood light, etc.

You can also check with all electrical items turned off, pull the pos battery lead and see if it has a spark when touched to the pos battery terminal. This will tell you that there is a battery drain somewhere in the system.

Do not try to start with the amp meter in line.

If you do have a drain, start pulling fuses to see which circuit the problem is in.

Just another possibility...
__________________
WH

Dad's J10, Honcho, 1980 Sport Side
Build http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=118144

https://picasaweb.google.com/113072766039246994279/JeepJ10Honcho

Herbina 1987 Grand Wagoneer




Founding Member, FSJ Prissy Restoration Association
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 11-11-2012, 01:26 PM
1983 j10's Avatar
1983 j10 1983 j10 is offline
327 Rambler
 
Join Date: Apr 13, 2008
Location: ohio
Posts: 728
I had an issue with an optima battery where if the temp out side was above 60 it would show no issues but one the temp dropped down a little I would have a starting and charging issues it was hard to track because once the alt charged the battery for a minute the battery would test good. I found it by just replacing the battery with another one I had and it solved all my issues and once I tested the old optima cold it showed bad
__________________
1983 j10 lwb soon to be a 4.5l stroker AMC 20 rear 44 front 4spd manual in the process of restoring

01 xj 3" and 31's
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 11-12-2012, 12:56 PM
Carnuck's Avatar
Carnuck Carnuck is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 12, 2011
Location: Gold Bar, WA
Posts: 6,469
Quote:
Originally Posted by DatsunTim
"Sounds like the alt is hooked to the starter side of the solenoid..."

If this were the case, then I would expect to have had probolems this past summer since this truck was a daily driver most of the summer as I said before.

"or you're draining over night"

I lean away from this since it started right up this morning.

I do still need to have the battery tested.

I thought I read that you took the alt and harness off for testing and reinstalled. Someone else maybe?
With a 1 wire alt, sometimes the regulator won't kick in if the battery is below 12 volts.
__________________
Jeep gauges are for amusement only. Any correlation between them and reality is purely coincidental.
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 11-13-2012, 12:38 PM
Joe Guilbeau Joe Guilbeau is offline
Bleedin' Gasoline
 
Join Date: Apr 17, 2002
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 2,137
Alternator Theory v17

I wrote this for a reason...

The first setion will outline how to troubleshoot your electrical system.

Section 1…“Alternators 101”

The difference between a "One Wire" and the OEM 2-Wire, 3-Wire or 4-Wire alternators is the regulator.

The advantage of the 1-Wire is simplicity of installation and no biasing of the regulator circuit is needed. Just apply the 12Vdc from the battery and the 1-Wire regulator senses the voltage and then the RPM's of the alternator determine the charge rate along with the Pusle Width Modulation inside of the regulator.


The advantage of the others is that a resistance voltage divider circuit is incorporated outside the alternator in the wiring harness of the vehicles. Therefore one is able to selectively manipulate the charging characteristics of the altenator. For instance, if you rock crawl at night with lots of illumination at 2-3 mph, then a standard alternator will not achieve the amperage required to supply the amperage load of engine, headlights, and aftermarket lighting.

Granted, the maximum amperage output of any of the generic alternators is dependent upon RPM, however the fact that you can put in a CS-144 gives you a pretty good rpm vs. amperage characteristic.


Another resource that is well done from Pirate 4x4

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Wiring/Part2/
__________________
Joe Guilbeau<br />1983 Cherokee Laredo WT (SJ-17), 360/229/727/D44/D60 4.10 Gearing, 8-lug hubs, Edelbrock Performer w/EGR Intake, Mallory Unilite Series 47 Photo-Optic Infrared Trigger Vacuum Distributor, Mallory Surge Protector, Mallory Promaster Coil, Holley Pro-Jection TBI 502-Analog, FlowKooler High Output Water Pump, Staggered 4-Core Custom Industrial Radiator, HD Fan Clutch, Dual Electric Fans, CS130 Delco 105-Amp Alternator, Oil Bypass Mods at Rear of Block and Distributor Oiling, Superlift 4\" Suspension, Rancho RS5000\'s, Hi-Tech 31\" Re-Treads, Aero 33 Gal Tank w/Skid Plate, Custom Rear \"Longhorn\" Bumper
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 11-25-2012, 01:00 PM
DatsunTim's Avatar
DatsunTim DatsunTim is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 18, 2012
Location: Belleville, WI
Posts: 130
Soooo....

It turned out to be the wire . It was constructed and covered with a flexible plastic cover such that I could not tell it had a crimp connection at each end. So I was not able to tell that one was crimp was poorly done and coming lose. Yet another example of poor work by the previous idiot. I really hope I am just about done finding crap like this!

I still do not understand why I was not able to get a reading from the alt but all seems fine now.

Thanks for all the input folks.
tim ...the current idiot.
__________________
Still clueless but always learning

71 J4600 Gladiator.... The WeeBeasty! that will support my Dattos:

70 Datsun 1600...(bought new my by old man)
70 Datsun 2000...driver
69 Datsun 2000...part car
68 Datsun 1600...future track car gonna get the stroker

Now hooked on FSJs so !# #! gimme another!
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 11-25-2012, 02:48 PM
Rich88's Avatar
Rich88 Rich88 is offline
FSJ Maniac
 
Join Date: Nov 20, 2008
Location: Wilds of Ellington, CT
Posts: 4,182
Quote:
Originally Posted by DatsunTim
.... one was crimp was poorly done and coming lose. Yet another example of poor work by the previous idiot......

I never pass up an opportunity to tell people to .....SOLDER!!!!
__________________
Jeepasaurus (Wagonus Grandi quadropedus)
88 GW 360-.030 over/2150/727/229/Posi, e-pump, AC (broke), tow package, Monroe Air Shocks, TFI, CTO-Free, AIR-free, oil & tranny coolers, dried knuckle blood all over, GM 350 TBI in a box, waiting...
"You're an FSJ'r when the parts guys memorize your name, phone & credit card#."
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 11-26-2012, 10:14 AM
DatsunTim's Avatar
DatsunTim DatsunTim is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 18, 2012
Location: Belleville, WI
Posts: 130
That's how the replacement was done. No worries on that one anyway....what will break next? I'd like to tar and feather the po!
__________________
Still clueless but always learning

71 J4600 Gladiator.... The WeeBeasty! that will support my Dattos:

70 Datsun 1600...(bought new my by old man)
70 Datsun 2000...driver
69 Datsun 2000...part car
68 Datsun 1600...future track car gonna get the stroker

Now hooked on FSJs so !# #! gimme another!
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
really stupid electrical question Captain Obvious General FSJ Tech 4 05-02-2010 07:18 PM
Electrical Question - Headlights Pete Ford General FSJ Tech 1 04-16-2005 06:16 PM
NP229 Electrical Switch Question chr1s General FSJ Tech 2 04-22-2004 11:21 AM
Electrical Question for the Gurus chr1s General FSJ Tech 8 08-19-2003 02:17 AM
Electrical Question Dr Gonzo General FSJ Tech 4 09-15-2001 07:53 AM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 03:50 PM.


Powered by vBulletin Version 3.5.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2022, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
corner corner