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  #21  
Old 01-03-2018, 12:13 PM
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Kaiserjeeps Kaiserjeeps is offline
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Join Date: Oct 02, 2002
Location: Mooseville Northern Idaho
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I have spent some crazy hours searching Ebay, Craigs, and the internet in general for last minute parts the last week or so. I have seen some T-86 transmission parts on Ebay lately. Grab them while you can. This stuff is slowly going away. Or maybe just find a T-14 and go with that. I used to blow all the teeth off my main drive gear in the T-14 that used to be in my 69 CJ-5. I was really hard on it and now have a T-18. Never looked back. Keep that Jeepster correct though. They are getting rare. Especially one as nice as yours.
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Most users ever online was 656, 06-30-2007 at 09:50 PM.
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1969 1414X Wag,
71 project J truck FOR SALE
1970 J truck long bed bed FOR SALE
1970 Wagoneer Not Sadie
1983 FJ60 wagon
CJ-5's
83 CJ-7 excellent shape FOR SALE
And soon... Another M715! echo... echo...
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  #22  
Old 01-03-2018, 09:36 PM
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CameraFinn CameraFinn is offline
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Join Date: Oct 15, 2015
Location: Golden, CO
Posts: 46
The Engine Is Built Again

Today was consumed by re-assembling the engine.
Moring:


Mid day:


Evening: (Ready for Paint!)


It spins nice, there's good piston to valve clearance and cam to crank clearance. It's funny, I'm more intimidated of rebuilding the carb than the whole engine, or transmission for that matter. I don't know why, I guess I just don't understand them very well. If anyone has good tips for Quadrajets, I'm all ears.
I'll paint the engine tomorrow.

Joe, It's really interesting that they used the Nailhead case -- it's got a few unique features in it because of how deep the flange on the back of Nailhead engines was, like the bulge for the starter. Interesting that GM decided to make the new TH-400 for the old Nailhead.

SJTD, Yes. You are absolutely correct. Grinding the rods certainly does affect the balance job of the engine. The shop said not to worry, I'd just end up with a little overbalance like factory. All in all, I took off about 1.2 grams from rod six, and 0.8 from rod two, and 1 gram is about tolerance for a good balance job, so I hope I'll be OK. The Buicks aren't really revvers either.

KaiserJeeps, I did see two T-86 clusters on ebay, however I haven't been able to find the first slider gear. Back when I had the trans rebuilt two years ago -- because I had exploded, and I mean truly destroyed, first gear -- my mechanic said he had had a really difficult time locating the pieces, and he'd gotten the last ones his suppliers could find. Supposedly, the Jeep factory fix for the issue is just to swap in T-90 gears. They are all the same dimensions, and I think that might be the approach I take since T-90 parts are still made. I'm just not sure what the story on the input shaft is though. I know it's essentially necessary to get gears specifically from one of the three models of T-90, I believe a T-90C, but I'm not sure. My other option is to drop the truck's original TH-400 in there. It is laying around, it would be entirely reversible from an originality standpoint, and it would make mountain passes a little easier (no double clutch rev matching with no tach around turns.) Also, thanks for the PM. Your box is full though.
Here's a pic of the "exploded" transmission:
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Finn

You know it's a good morning when the gas gauge works for the whole drive.

1970.5 Gladiator J-4800 Camper Special Custom Cab - 55,000 Miles (Under Reconstruction)
1967 Jeepster Convertible - 8071 Deluxe - 65,000 Miles
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  #23  
Old 01-03-2018, 10:00 PM
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Kaiserjeeps Kaiserjeeps is offline
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Join Date: Oct 02, 2002
Location: Mooseville Northern Idaho
Posts: 2,491
Wow! carnage... I cleaned my inbox up..

It might be to late for this, but you should really put in a true roller timing chain. Cloyes is a good brand. All American V-8 stock timing chains are not the best and only 30 K miles can show stretching. A loose timing chain will make the timing mark jump around when lit up with a light. You have done some really nice work there. A stronger timing chain would be the icing on the cake. I am a trouble maker huh?
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Am I done yet?

Holy Moly, I am done.....

Most users ever online was 656, 06-30-2007 at 09:50 PM.
I was there! Still waiting for my Tee shirt...

1969 1414X Wag,
71 project J truck FOR SALE
1970 J truck long bed bed FOR SALE
1970 Wagoneer Not Sadie
1983 FJ60 wagon
CJ-5's
83 CJ-7 excellent shape FOR SALE
And soon... Another M715! echo... echo...
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  #24  
Old 01-03-2018, 11:06 PM
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CameraFinn CameraFinn is offline
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Join Date: Oct 15, 2015
Location: Golden, CO
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I took your suggestion and grabbed a new timing chain. I'd checked the old one out, and I only had about 5* of slop at the cam so left it, but I was just being cheap. Kinda silly on an engine with new rods. Those Cloyes chains are much less expensive than the roller sets TA sells. And you're not too late at all, I still have to drill out the oil passages in the timing cover, and rebuild the oil pump. I just want to get the engine and trans in the truck to get them out of the way.
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Finn

You know it's a good morning when the gas gauge works for the whole drive.

1970.5 Gladiator J-4800 Camper Special Custom Cab - 55,000 Miles (Under Reconstruction)
1967 Jeepster Convertible - 8071 Deluxe - 65,000 Miles
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  #25  
Old 01-06-2018, 10:38 PM
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CameraFinn CameraFinn is offline
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Join Date: Oct 15, 2015
Location: Golden, CO
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They're In!

I've spent the past few days painting stuff, and running around town looking for the snap ring that retains the transmission to t-case adapter inner splined shaft to the bearing. I should have taken a picture for that description, but I didn't. Anyway, I found it at a bearing supply house, Whisler Bearings and Drives in northeast Denver. There are a few nice things that offset living in a bigger city, and finding obscure industrial parts in one day is one of them.
On Kaiserjeeps' suggestion, I grabbed a new double roller timing chain, and because America is amazing, it arrived today.
So here's that:


Additionally, thanks to Kaiserjeeps, I was able to order the mount between the crossmember and the adapter. It is a Crown mount and the part number is: J1370910.

Then I got the engine all prettied up, painted, and off the engine stand for the first time in months!


Hooked up to the tranny:
3


2


1


They're in!


Yes, there is still no timing cover on the engine. The oil pump rebuild kit from TA is in the mail, but still not here yet. Whenever it arrives, I'll rebuild the pump and get the cover back on.
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Finn

You know it's a good morning when the gas gauge works for the whole drive.

1970.5 Gladiator J-4800 Camper Special Custom Cab - 55,000 Miles (Under Reconstruction)
1967 Jeepster Convertible - 8071 Deluxe - 65,000 Miles
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  #26  
Old 01-07-2018, 12:29 AM
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Kaiserjeeps Kaiserjeeps is offline
304 AMC
 
Join Date: Oct 02, 2002
Location: Mooseville Northern Idaho
Posts: 2,491
Wow, you are moving right along. Looking just great!
__________________
-----------------------
Am I done yet?

Holy Moly, I am done.....

Most users ever online was 656, 06-30-2007 at 09:50 PM.
I was there! Still waiting for my Tee shirt...

1969 1414X Wag,
71 project J truck FOR SALE
1970 J truck long bed bed FOR SALE
1970 Wagoneer Not Sadie
1983 FJ60 wagon
CJ-5's
83 CJ-7 excellent shape FOR SALE
And soon... Another M715! echo... echo...
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  #27  
Old 01-07-2018, 11:45 AM
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Frank Ziebert Frank Ziebert is offline
327 Rambler
 
Join Date: Dec 04, 2016
Location: Sisters, OR
Posts: 621
Quote:
Originally Posted by CameraFinn
I've spent the past few days painting stuff, and running around town looking for the snap ring that retains the transmission to t-case adapter inner splined shaft to the bearing. I should have taken a picture for that description, but I didn't. Anyway, I found it at a bearing supply house, Whisler Bearings and Drives in northeast Denver. There are a few nice things that offset living in a bigger city, and finding obscure industrial parts in one day is one of them.
On Kaiserjeeps' suggestion, I grabbed a new double roller timing chain, and because America is amazing, it arrived today.
So here's that:


Additionally, thanks to Kaiserjeeps, I was able to order the mount between the crossmember and the adapter. It is a Crown mount and the part number is: J1370910.

Then I got the engine all prettied up, painted, and off the engine stand for the first time in months!


Hooked up to the tranny:
3


2


1


They're in!


Yes, there is still no timing cover on the engine. The oil pump rebuild kit from TA is in the mail, but still not here yet. Whenever it arrives, I'll rebuild the pump and get the cover back on.

Looks great. Thanks for the post/pictures.
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Stinger 2005 Jeep Unlimited, Sahara, Rubicon slightly modified
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  #28  
Old 01-09-2018, 09:57 AM
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CameraFinn CameraFinn is offline
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Join Date: Oct 15, 2015
Location: Golden, CO
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Thanks guys. I'm getting excited. I'm back in school now, so It's going to slow down again. Oh well. I got the dash all ready to put in the other day.
Have a good day y'all.
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Finn

You know it's a good morning when the gas gauge works for the whole drive.

1970.5 Gladiator J-4800 Camper Special Custom Cab - 55,000 Miles (Under Reconstruction)
1967 Jeepster Convertible - 8071 Deluxe - 65,000 Miles
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  #29  
Old 01-09-2018, 10:05 AM
SJTD SJTD is offline
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Join Date: Apr 26, 2012
Location: Lompoc and Sunland, CA
Posts: 1,643
Hope you put some tape over the open holes. Especially the intake.
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'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.
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  #30  
Old 04-09-2018, 11:39 AM
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CameraFinn CameraFinn is offline
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Join Date: Oct 15, 2015
Location: Golden, CO
Posts: 46
More Slow Progress

Hey All,

@SJTD: Yes, we quickly covered the holes. I don't know why we'd left them open.

Over the past few months, we've been making some progress. It is slow though, school takes a lot of time.

While I was installing the manifold, I sheared a bolt off in the head. It must have been a bad bolt, because it was Grade 5, 1/2" (I think?) and I was under 50ft-lbs. Anyway, I managed to drill it out and use a bolt puller.



Also, the rebuilt transfer case I'd picked up didn't shift correctly, so I opened it up to find the shift fork was on the rail at the wrong spot. I don't know how you miss the big hole, but it wasn't right. You can see the dent from the previous location next to the hole.



First thing we did was to put the interior in. Under the carpet, we put foam then vinyl to try to dampen some of the sound. Then we put the seats in.



Then I rebuilt the overdrive. It is a Borg Warner R-10 OD that was adapted by Rancho to fit onto the Dana 20. They aren't too common, but I don't think they are extremely rare either. I believe you can buy an entire one from Herm the OD guy.
Back case off:



When you pull this part off, 12 roller clutch pins will also fall out. Put them back in with grease, just like needle bearings.



Re-install with grease:



Keep pulling gears and snap rings. This part is the dog-like clutch that engages the OD. The circular cut in on the right is where the solenoid hooks in.



This is the governor with the top removed. It works by pulling down the internals once the drive hits a certain speed.



And these are the contacts on the top of the governor. I had to re-make the horseshoe piece, and the long straight one. They had fallen into the governor, and were all but gone. I just took a small section of copper pipe, cut it to one layer thick, hammered it flat, cut a small square, and then filed it to the right shape.



Buttoned back up and painted:



Also, the engine originally had a thermostatic spring choke, and it was a bit hard to start. I looked at an electric choke conversion, but I don't like the electric choke we have on our blue Jeepster, it's hard to keep it running for the first few minutes in the winter. My red Jeepster has a manual choke, and I really like it. It's easy to drive in the winter. So, I made a manual choke for the Quadrajet. I used an "L" bracket, and welded a split shaft collar to the top of it. That bolts to the thermostatic choke cover in the manifold. On the other end, I used a spare Vent control knob so that it wasn't obvious it is a choke. And after all, a choke is kinda a carb vent, right?

Here is the carb:



And the choke "Vent" knob:



So that's about where we are. I put in the steering box too, but I still have to get new tie-rod ends. Since I changed axles, the knuckles don't have the extra tapered hole for the drag link, so I'll have to get the passenger side tie rod end with the tapered hole for a steering stabilizer, and put the drag link in there. Does anyone know much about tie-rod ends? I was going to use GM 1-ton ones. I'm not sure what should go back on the Dodge axle, and I think bigger ones would do better with the big tires. Do y'all know about the taper situation? I think I have to buy one of those tapered reamers to change the size of the tie rod ends, right?
For now, we are working on the electrical. We got new connectors, and a Kwik Wire fuse-box and harness. It's kinda sad to run out of the mechanical things, but it's closer to driving each week.
Enjoy.
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Finn

You know it's a good morning when the gas gauge works for the whole drive.

1970.5 Gladiator J-4800 Camper Special Custom Cab - 55,000 Miles (Under Reconstruction)
1967 Jeepster Convertible - 8071 Deluxe - 65,000 Miles
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  #31  
Old 04-09-2018, 11:44 AM
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CameraFinn CameraFinn is offline
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Join Date: Oct 15, 2015
Location: Golden, CO
Posts: 46
Ouray

P.S. My dad and I are coming to Ouray.
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Finn

You know it's a good morning when the gas gauge works for the whole drive.

1970.5 Gladiator J-4800 Camper Special Custom Cab - 55,000 Miles (Under Reconstruction)
1967 Jeepster Convertible - 8071 Deluxe - 65,000 Miles
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  #32  
Old 04-09-2018, 09:45 PM
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Full Size Jeeper Full Size Jeeper is offline
304 AMC
 
Join Date: Jul 20, 2014
Location: Mandeville Louisiana
Posts: 2,416
Yes, it is looking really nice.
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1978 Wagoneer

401/turbo 400 trans. Quadra-Trac BW1339 (with Low) 4" Rusty's lift with 31" Summit Mud Dawgs

Mods:
Fuel Tank, Red Holley Fuel Pump, Razor Grill (profile pic out dated), Rebuilt steering box
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  #33  
Old 04-09-2018, 11:50 PM
Kaiserjeeps's Avatar
Kaiserjeeps Kaiserjeeps is offline
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Join Date: Oct 02, 2002
Location: Mooseville Northern Idaho
Posts: 2,491
Looking great. That is a interesting overdrive. I have never seen one like that. I have one of Herms modified saturn overdrives in my cj. I was going to take it out soon the check his modification (planetary bushings instead of bearings) for wear. I destroyed my original overdrive and traded him a truck load of unwanted jeep parts for his modified OD parts to repair mine. Probably 20 years ago. It sounds like he is still going strong and has expanded his jeep piles and products.

I like the manual choke. They are manageable unlike electrics.
Glad to see you catching up on the truck.
__________________
-----------------------
Am I done yet?

Holy Moly, I am done.....

Most users ever online was 656, 06-30-2007 at 09:50 PM.
I was there! Still waiting for my Tee shirt...

1969 1414X Wag,
71 project J truck FOR SALE
1970 J truck long bed bed FOR SALE
1970 Wagoneer Not Sadie
1983 FJ60 wagon
CJ-5's
83 CJ-7 excellent shape FOR SALE
And soon... Another M715! echo... echo...
Reply With Quote
  #34  
Old 04-10-2018, 09:00 AM
SJTD SJTD is offline
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Join Date: Apr 26, 2012
Location: Lompoc and Sunland, CA
Posts: 1,643
Got one of those on a parts Wag I bought. Was thinking of using it but I don't like the way they freewheel when in OD when you let off the gas.

Also wasn't thrilled with the electric shifting.
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'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.
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  #35  
Old 04-11-2018, 07:52 AM
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CameraFinn CameraFinn is offline
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Location: Golden, CO
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Thanks for the compliment Full Size Jeeper

Kaiserjeeps, It is an interesting overdrive. Another obvious result of it not being in the transfer case, or before, is that you have to make sure it is locked out before going into 4WD, so your rear end doesn't go into OD while the front isn't...
Herm is still going strong. I thought about getting seals from him, but they were 1/3 the cost at my local seal distributor, plus no shipping, so I just got them there.
And I'm sure that electric chokes can be OK when they are set up right, but I've just had bad luck. I like manuals too. Just set it and go.

SJTD, I live around a lot of mountains, and I don't like the idea of it freewheeling in OD much either, so I think i'll keep it locked out most of the time. Plus, I got another R-10 for parts if I blow this one up. We'll see how it drives, If I don't like it, then I'll just pull it out and put the D-20 output back in place. I still don't really know how I plan to control it, my truck didn't come with any of the fancy relay stuff.
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Finn

You know it's a good morning when the gas gauge works for the whole drive.

1970.5 Gladiator J-4800 Camper Special Custom Cab - 55,000 Miles (Under Reconstruction)
1967 Jeepster Convertible - 8071 Deluxe - 65,000 Miles
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  #36  
Old 04-12-2018, 02:41 PM
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rang-a-stang rang-a-stang is offline
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Fantastic build thread! Subscribing!
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11 Nissan Pathfinder Silver Edition 4x4
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  #37  
Old 04-12-2018, 10:12 PM
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CameraFinn CameraFinn is offline
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Thanks rang-a-stang!
I just managed to snake my way through photobucket to your pictures, since they won't show. I like your Cherk, I always liked the WT look. I'm not sure I can give you any ways to get your boy interested, but if he hangs around long enough, maybe he will. I passed Jeep disease up a generation to my dad, so you never know. Plus, sounds like you're going to rebuild your engine this summer. It's the coolest part, and always has been. Maybe that'll get him. When I was a kid, I drew pistons instead of dinosaurs...
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Finn

You know it's a good morning when the gas gauge works for the whole drive.

1970.5 Gladiator J-4800 Camper Special Custom Cab - 55,000 Miles (Under Reconstruction)
1967 Jeepster Convertible - 8071 Deluxe - 65,000 Miles
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  #38  
Old 04-13-2018, 10:36 AM
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rang-a-stang rang-a-stang is offline
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Hey! No hijacking your own thread to give me nice words! haha!

Yep, rebuild/EFI starts in a few weeks. He says he wants a crusty/fast truck. He really likes the late 90's Ram 1500's. I can't afford to have this Jeep and a crusty truck so my hope is he will start driving my Jeep and love it as much as I do. We're going on our first off reading adventure this weekend so hopefully something will stick then, too.

Keep posting these awesome pictures and build so we can all continue to drool all over our computers.
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  #39  
Old 04-16-2018, 11:47 AM
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CameraFinn CameraFinn is offline
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Brakes

I didn't take any pictures yesterday, but I put in the brake lines in most of the way. I still have to tie them into the calipers, but I got them run from the master. Also, I put in the transmission linkage. Small steps, but it's coming along.

Rang-A-Stang, any good looking Jeep deserves kind words. I hope your rebuild goes well. I hope to do EFI this summer too, it's nice to have it in the winter and on passes. What FI box/controller were you planning to use? Seems like there are a lot of choices.
Those Rams do look pretty good, but I guess I don't have too much sympathy for them, because I killed one just for the axles. Oh well. I bet he liked Reading though, a few more trips, and a big cam in the engine is probably all it will take to win him over.
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Finn

You know it's a good morning when the gas gauge works for the whole drive.

1970.5 Gladiator J-4800 Camper Special Custom Cab - 55,000 Miles (Under Reconstruction)
1967 Jeepster Convertible - 8071 Deluxe - 65,000 Miles
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  #40  
Old 04-16-2018, 12:05 PM
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rang-a-stang rang-a-stang is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CameraFinn
What FI box/controller were you planning to use? Seems like there are a lot of choices.
My choices are VERY limited. I have to be able to pass CA smog so there is really only one choice: GM TBI/Howell. I have the older, more documented 7747 computer and the newer/better/less documented 7427. I will decide which to use when I start wiring.

If I didn't have to pass CA smog, I would probably get a FiTech because they seem to be the best bang for the buck.
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