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  #1  
Old 09-23-2021, 09:44 PM
UTScout's Avatar
UTScout UTScout is offline
230 Tornado
 
Join Date: Mar 06, 2021
Location: SLC, UT
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89 GW Build: Carb rebuild & emissions

Hello all!
I'm working on a 78 J10 with my son for my son and an 89 GW to be a daily driver for me. Currently I have the doors torn apart to clean and repair all of the window motors and door locks but the thing quit running so I diagnosed it and it was the fuel pump. I replaced that and the carb blew up. Its spewing fuel from every seal. I got the rebuild kit and pulled the carb today. Here are my intentions to start:

1) Add an electric choke to the 2150 if possible.
2) Get rid of all emissions crap I don't need.
3) I picked up a new distributor from Amazon just to try this out. I found a link on this at offroaders.com but I'm searching here too. I want to install that and get rid of everything I don't need as a result of the change.

I have been searching here for sources and would welcome any direction and advice. Lets start with the carb rebuild. I just printed the 2100/2150 rebuild write up from Michael Baxter on this site but:

1) Any other advice on the rebuild?
2) Can I add an electric choke to this 2150?

Thanks in advance to all contributors.

Last edited by UTScout : 09-23-2021 at 10:06 PM.
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  #2  
Old 09-24-2021, 08:50 AM
'89_Wagon '89_Wagon is offline
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The '89 2150 should already have electric choke. In fact, as a precaution, add a fuse to that circuit. It can cause melted wires if accidentally grounded out.

Wondering how the new distributor will change much... how is it being controlled? Otherwise, the CTO circuits and vacuum advance are pretty good at what they do. A common upgrade is a TFI cap, rotor, and coil with the supplied 12+ volts (elimination of the resistor wire going to the coil). I vote against the GM HEI module upgrade. I had starting issues with mine under hot start and went back to the stock ignition module (aftermarket O'Reilly part) and everything was fine.
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  #3  
Old 09-24-2021, 11:41 AM
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UTScout UTScout is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by '89_Wagon
The '89 2150 should already have electric choke. In fact, as a precaution, add a fuse to that circuit. It can cause melted wires if accidentally grounded out.

Wondering how the new distributor will change much... how is it being controlled? Otherwise, the CTO circuits and vacuum advance are pretty good at what they do. A common upgrade is a TFI cap, rotor, and coil with the supplied 12+ volts (elimination of the resistor wire going to the coil). I vote against the GM HEI module upgrade. I had starting issues with mine under hot start and went back to the stock ignition module (aftermarket O'Reilly part) and everything was fine.

Hello! And thank you.

1. I have a 2 barrel carb off of a donor 83 GW: (a) it says motorcraft but is definitely different in several ways & (b) its choke has a tab for a wire to connect to. My carb does not have a wire tab on it or anywhere to connect one. I assume its mechanical?

2. I would be fine keeping the existing ignition - it functioned fine before the fuel issue. I had just read that it eliminated known Jeep issues.

I attempted to attach pics of the carbs/chokes and even reduced the size of the pics to less than 488K but the site still wouldn't let me upload the pics. I'm sure its operator error but I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong yet - I'll figure it out.
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  #4  
Old 09-27-2021, 11:22 AM
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rang-a-stang rang-a-stang is offline
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I am little confused: the carb you are working on is on your 89GW, right? If so, it should have a electric choke. If it does not, pull it off and use your donor carb. If you do not have an electrical wire for the choke, you may have to make one. Really, it probably melted at some point and the previous owner just cut it off. Do you have an electrical diagram handy? If so, just find where it should be connected and see if it's there. If you do not have an electrical diagram, go here and download your service manual for free.
https://oljeep.com/edge_parts_man.html

I would not touch the smog stuff right now. It really does not make that much difference and just "pulling it off" makes it much harder to tune the engine. If you leave it, you can just make it work and the engine will be "tuned" correctly. In 89, the vacuum systems on these are sooooo overly complex and pulling parts off will drive you mad as you try to figure out why things are not working, why it backfires, why there is a dead spot in the throttle, etc. Honestly, if your truck was running perfectly, and then you removed "all the smog stuff" and re-tuned it to run perfectly, you probably wouldn't even notice a difference. There is an old wives tail that said "smog stuff" killed all your power. To a degree that's true but the thing that really killed all your power is the low compression and small camshaft. EGR, PCV, and your carbon can make no difference in power AT ALL. The smog pumps takes a tiny bit of power but but it's pretty much imperceivable. Your time is better spent making the stock stuff work or put a Howell EFI on it. Honestly, if I bought an 89 the first thing I would do is install a Howell EFI.
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  #5  
Old 09-27-2021, 11:43 AM
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rang-a-stang rang-a-stang is offline
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oh, you asked about the distributor. I assume you bought an HEI distributor? Does it have the coil in the cap? The factory ignition in 89 is pretty solid. If you just got a factory replacement distributor, you might as well stab it in, throw a cap, rotor, wires, and plugs at it and that is all you really need ignition wise. When you pull the original distributor out, look at the cam gear at the bottom. if it is in good shape, swap it on to your new dizzy. If it is trashed, use the one on the distributor you just bought but it will probably have a very short life so start looking for either a good used original cam gear, NOS AMC cam gear, or buy a good one (I don't know what a "good one" is but have heard there are good ones and bad ones, good ones cost $50+).

If it is an HEI distributor, those are sometimes amazing and sometimes total trash (so I read, I have no direct experience with them). If your dizzy that is currently in your truck is working, I would not mess with it (other than cap, rotor, and wires if it needs it).

The "known Jeep issues." are two of them:
1) The connectors that come off the Duraspark box on your fender get all gooked up with green crap in them. You can clean them for a short term fix, or replace them (the connectors are widely available and cheap, it's actually a Ford part) wit brand new and they are good for 5-15 years. Or you can swap the connectors for new weatherpack connectors. The weatherpack connectors are about twice as much $$ but 3 times more reliable and WAAaaaayyyy longer lasting.
2) the Duraspark module itself. If you have an original (has an AMC logo, part number on it), they are great and last a long time. There is nothing to see here. If yours if an aftermarket replacement one, go buy another one with a lifetime warranty on it and throw it on. Put the spare one (that you just took off) in your glovebox because you will need it. When the one under your hood dies (it has a lifetime warranty), throw your spare one (in the glovebox) on, and go get a replacement for the one you bought with a lifetime warranty. Sometimes the aftermarket ones last 100k miles, sometimes they last 5 days. Also beware of bad ones, right out of the box. Other than factory, I do not know of any replacement Duraspark boxes that are better than others. What I mean is, I do not know if there is not one that costs more but is way more reliable. There may be but I have not seen it mentioned here.
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  #6  
Old 09-27-2021, 11:46 AM
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tgreese tgreese is offline
 
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Well, it's sort of an electric choke. If it's like all the other Jeep 2150s I've seen, it's a thermoelectric choke. It uses both hot air from the manifold stove and electric heating to open.
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  #7  
Old 10-01-2021, 09:37 PM
johnsonic johnsonic is offline
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I echo rang on not ripping all the smog stuff out just because. Would start with replacing the vac hoses (you can get kits of vac hoses in an assortment of diameters). See where you're at then. If you're intent on removing the smog stuff after that, you have a solid baseline. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I say this because ripped all of my smog stuff off at once and it took a lot of time and money to get it dialed in. "There's a hesitation off idle - must need to replace this thing!" And it usually wasn't that thing. I'm finally happy now, but it was years of not being totally stoked driving my rig.

The fuel pump being replaced and all of a sudden your carb is spewing gas out every gasket sounds suspect to me. Return line OK? Needle valve OK? You could throw a rebuild kit on one of your carbs and try that out. Would ID the carb that's on it now to make sure it's original and start from there. It's weird it doesn't have an electric choke. If it's not running it probably has more to do with gas spewing everywhere than the distributor.

When you get to it:
For the distributor, make sure it has spark and get it running
I don't have experience with trashing a distributor/cam gear but have read a few threads where folks had that problem.

With the distributor & specifically the gear, I read it's best to swap your old one over unless it's trashed.

If you need a new one, I've used this one twice and had no problems, wouldn't trust a gear that came with a distributor unless it's from a reputable brand: https://www.bjsoffroad.com/MSD-Distr...-V8_p_583.html

Also - what a fun father/son project!!! I love that these things can be ten years apart and have so much in common. Good luck on it!
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Old 10-02-2021, 02:27 PM
AM Woody AM Woody is offline
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Interesting points on the smog stuff. I've been on both ends of this, but not in the middle. First GW was a '90, all original with 100K. Had lots of trouble with vacuum lines and air injection since all that was at the end of its life. Rebuilt the carb, it passed emissions, but always had a flat spot. Sold it to a guy on here, he figured it out, was a CTO, if I remember right.

Then I bought a '89 with analog Holley ProJection and all the emissions stuff already gone. Ran great when it ran, passed emissions, but it kept giving up now and then and troubleshooting it was a pain. So, I went back to a 2150 carb and set it up with a minimal vacuum layout I found somewhere on here. Been running great for a few years now. Maybe I just got lucky.
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  #9  
Old 10-02-2021, 07:41 PM
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letank letank is offline
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hesitation off idle

check the PCV valve, it is a unit on a plastic sleeve, the sleeve can distort letting some extra air, aka a vacuum leak.

The other is the charcoal canister with the vacuum plumbing to the carb and also it is connected to the pcv
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See Ouray 2013, Engine bits and Fuel and brake lines, and Body work
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