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  #1  
Old 01-04-2021, 06:49 PM
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Cliff Cliff is offline
350 Buick
 
Join Date: Mar 30, 2002
Location: Upper East Tennessee
Posts: 768
Automotive Wax

I have been using ordinary Mother's Carnuba wax for the past 20 years. No complaints with the results except that it leaves a little dust and it's a lot of manual labor. I will use a clay bar when necessary, and rubbing compound as well.

With all of the new technology in paint, polymers, and coatings is there a new product out there that you have been using with good results? Maybe easier to apply but just as good (or better) protection?
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1977 Cherokee S

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Old 01-05-2021, 03:44 AM
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Brynjminjones Brynjminjones is offline
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Join Date: Jun 11, 2017
Location: Derby, England
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I was recently looking up something similar, as I wanted the most durable protection on my 1991.
I didn't want anything semi/permanent though (like a ceramic coating) as there are some paint defects I want sorted soon.

After loads of browsing forums I've ended up using Collinite 476S.
It's not the easiest to apply, but it definitely seems to hold up very well.

I waxed the Wagoneer back in about March/April, and water still beads off it pretty much like it's just been applied.
My XJ Cherokee was done in March. It's my daily driver and lives outside, plus has been off-roaded through mud a lot lately, as well as driving in road salt.

It's still holding up okay too, although it has just started to show signs of the wax deteriorating.

Overall I'm really happy with it, seems to last much better than others I've tried.

I use two coats, 1 day apart.
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1998 Cherokee (XJ) 4.0
1997 Grand Cherokee (ZJ) 4.0
1974 Ford F100 390
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  #3  
Old 01-05-2021, 09:38 AM
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SOLSAKS SOLSAKS is offline
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Join Date: Jul 25, 2016
Location: Benson. NC
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brynjminjones

sounds like some good wax.

just noticed your FSJ is hunter green

rare anywhere,..... especially across the pond.


bet you get a ton of attention, or,...do a lot of people have no idea what it is ?

dave in NC
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1976 J-10 HONCHO Fleetside
1982 J-10 Fleetside
1988 grand wagoneer
2004 RUBICON jeep
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  #4  
Old 01-06-2021, 08:15 AM
MysticRob MysticRob is offline
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Join Date: Nov 26, 2019
Location: Boise, ID
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I bought this kit a while back and have used it a couple times on my cars. First I clay bar an individual panel, then I follow up with the polish and synthetic wax. Rarely use the rubbing compound on anything besides newly painted surfaces that are orange peeled. Electric buffers are the way to go.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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--Rob--
1988 Jeep Grand Wagoneer / Baltic Blue & Tan
2008 BMW 535xi Wagon / Deep Sea Blue & Tan

My build thread:
https://ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=189245
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  #5  
Old 01-07-2021, 12:17 PM
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elskeptico elskeptico is offline
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Location: Bay Area, CA
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Has anyone tried one of those ceramic coatings instead of wax? I've seen lots of reviews/tests of it, and it seems pretty amazing. You do need to reapply it every 2-5 years, but same thing with wax.
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Old 01-07-2021, 03:13 PM
MysticRob MysticRob is offline
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Join Date: Nov 26, 2019
Location: Boise, ID
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elskeptico
Has anyone tried one of those ceramic coatings instead of wax? I've seen lots of reviews/tests of it, and it seems pretty amazing. You do need to reapply it every 2-5 years, but same thing with wax.

As with everything, you get what you pay for.
And it's like with internet speeds, you get "UP TO" something, but rarely do you get that particular speed, or protection in this case.

I've read that timeframe you mention might apply if it's an expensive professional product applied by pros and not beat on outdoors, but most DIY products aren't nearly that good or long-lasting.

Most DIY wax products will typically last a few weeks on a "normally driven" vehicle, and ceramic products a few months, from what I've read.

That said, ceramic sounds like better protection to me. But the prep can be hell, and apparently won't do much for an already-blemished paint job. I still have a lot of wax stuff, but at some point I'd like to try a decent quality ceramic coating to my BMW.
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--Rob--
1988 Jeep Grand Wagoneer / Baltic Blue & Tan
2008 BMW 535xi Wagon / Deep Sea Blue & Tan

My build thread:
https://ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=189245
My Howell TBI Install How-To:
https://ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=189877
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  #7  
Old 01-08-2021, 07:20 AM
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Brynjminjones Brynjminjones is offline
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Join Date: Jun 11, 2017
Location: Derby, England
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SOLSAKS
brynjminjones

sounds like some good wax.

just noticed your FSJ is hunter green

rare anywhere,..... especially across the pond.


bet you get a ton of attention, or,...do a lot of people have no idea what it is ?

dave in NC

Yeah, it's the only Hunter Green I'm aware of in the UK
People stare at it a lot, but mostly have no idea what it is. People here aren't that friendly - they mostly look at me like I'm driving a UFO or something, although the occasional person asks me what it is.

I once bumped into an American family on vacation over here - they all stared at me in shock for a good two minutes before the Dad excitedly ran over to talk to me!


On the topic of waxes etc, I've been thinking about using a ceramic coating for a while now, so would be very interested to hear how people have gotten on with them. I'm a bit nervous though to apply it to anything other than perfect paint.
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1991 Grand Wagoneer - Hunter Green. All stock. Rebuilt 360 with Melling MTA-1 cam.

1998 Cherokee (XJ) 4.0
1997 Grand Cherokee (ZJ) 4.0
1974 Ford F100 390
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  #8  
Old 01-08-2021, 09:13 AM
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SOLSAKS SOLSAKS is offline
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Join Date: Jul 25, 2016
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good story about the wag in England.
thanx for the reply

dave
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1976 J-10 HONCHO Fleetside
1982 J-10 Fleetside
1988 grand wagoneer
2004 RUBICON jeep
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  #9  
Old 02-23-2021, 01:19 AM
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FSJunkie FSJunkie is offline
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Join Date: Jan 09, 2011
Location: Not The Hot Part, Arizona
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It hugely depends on the type of paint and it's condition.

Most modern clear coat urethane and acrylic paints respond well to a synthetic polymer wax such as Meguiar's Ultimate or Turtle Wax Ice. Old baked enamel and lacquer paints do too if there isn't any oxidation of their surface. If there is oxidation, you should either polish the paint first or use a cleaner wax that contains some polish such as Zymol or Nu Finish. The fancy new synthetic waxes are nice. They shine well, are easy to apply and remove, and last a long time, but they don't have as much polish in them as the old cleaner waxes or regular carnauba waxes have. Sometimes you need that.

I prefer using liquid products with a DA or RA polisher and an extra fine foam pad. It saves you so much time and work. It used to take me the better part of an afternoon to wax a car by hand, but I can cut it down to an hour or two with a polisher.

I get mirror finish results on modern urethane clear coats with the Mother's California Gold 3-step polishing system, but it's a TON of work, even with a polisher.
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