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Old 04-16-2003, 05:03 AM
SFFSJ SFFSJ is offline
Join Date: Jul 29, 2002
Location: San Francisco, CA
Posts: 109

1982 360 w/ TF727 and Holley TBI Removal and Reinstallation notes.

This is a loooong write up -- I tried to include as many details as I could
remember / wrote down... hope it's helpful to somebody! I shoulda / woulda
taken pictures, too, but the camera batteries were dead and I was too lazy to go
buy new ones.

See "Engine replacement wrap up" for notes on what I did to the used engine
before installing it, if interested.

These are a combination of memory and chickenscratch... I'd be happy to answer
any questions or expand on any points, but I obviously can't take any
responsibility for your results, good or bad - but especially bad : ) - if you
follow these directions!

My engine was/is weird for a couple of reasons. I have an MSD, a Holley TBI,
and use both the top post and side post of the battery for ground, along with
a few extra wires, too... quite the cludge from both DSPOs and This Stupid
Owner. These notes will reflect those oddities. Finally, I in no way claim this
is The Way to do this, but it worked for me... I'd love any feedback about what
might be better next time...

Your Mileage May Vary!

0) Remove hood
- I did this later, but wish I did it first.

- MARK the hood-to-hinge joint so realignment is a breeze. I used white-out, but
I'm not too concerned with appearance.

- Remove the hood release -- and don't forget to reattach it before ya' slam the
hood shut after reinstallation!

- It's Heavy. This should be a two-person job... I did it alone,
but (a) I'm 6'6" and (b) my back hurt later!

1) Remove air intake host

2) Remove air cleaner

3) Remove oil cap and vent hose

4) Drain coolant

- Note, a lot drained from the tap at the bottom of the radiator, but when I
pulled the motor, lots more was left as I tipped it around. I'm sure the
"proper" thing to do is figure out all the drain taps in the block and such, but
I didn't. Didn't seem to be much worse off, except for the now-wet garage floor

5) Remove spark plug wires. Label them, if you haven't already.

- I've got MSDs, and they came with little snap-on labels. Something that's come
in handy repeatedly...

6) Remove Coil.

7) TBI: Remove pink wire to battery-negative

8) Remove Negative battery cable from top post.

9) Remove negative battery cable from side post.

10) TBI: Remove positive battery post connection.

11) Remove positive battery cable.

12) Remove battery.

- I was sure to set mine on some insulation, not directly on the concrete floor.
Then plugged it in to a trickle charger, for good measure.

13) Disconnect MSD distributor pickup.

- Purple MSD to black-with-orange-stripe
- Green MSD to black-with-purple-stripe

14) Disconnect vacuum advance at distributor

15) Remove lower radiator hose from radiator

16) Remove upper radiator hose completely

17) Remove radiator overflow tank and hose

18) Remoce radiator trans-cooler lines... plug and zip-tie out of the way

19) Remove radiator

- Differential breather hose holder-dealie on upper driver's side bolt
- Radiator was still kinda full, resulting in some spillage and wet feet.

20) Loosen smog pump belt

21) Remove power steering belt, remove smog pump belt

22) Remove alternator belt

23) Remove fan, clutch, pulleys from water pump

24) Remove hose from water pump to forwardmost heater core port

25) Remove smog pump - to - exhaust manifold air injector rail hoses

26) Remove hose from charcoal cannister to lower-middle port of TBI

- Including controller motor and ground(?)
- Ground to coil bracket bolt. Positive to a connector in the wiring harness
with the temp sensor wire

27) Disconnect wire from coolant temperature sensor near distributor

28) TBI: Disconnect coolant temp sensor wire from other sensor

29) TBI: Disconnect wire from throttle stepper

30) TBI: Disconnect TPS sensor

31) TBI: Disconnect TBI-Engine ground

32) TBI: Disconnect injector power, front of TBI

33) Remove hose from heater to rear of intake manifold

34) Remove line from charcoal cannister to end of PCV valve

35) Remove alternator

- Top bolt out
- Loosen bracket bolts
- Adjustor bolt out
- Big red wire to rear of alternator off
- Connector on back, side of alternator off
- Snip zip ties

36) Remove fuel tank vent line from center port of charc cannistor.

37) Disconnect two-wire connector from socket over oil filter on the pump

38) Disconnect oil pressure sensor wire (?) from nipple behind filter

39) Remove driver's side smog-pump injectors from manifold

- Washers between both bolt-head-and-injector-rail and injector-rail-and-manifold

40) Remove exhaust manifold - to - collector bolts.

- Careful! They're all rusty (for me, at least), and ya' don't want to strip
them (or, at least, *I* didn't!)

41) Remove driver's side exhaust manifold

- See note on (40) re: care. Mine came right out as they had anti-seize but I
expected trouble

42) Repeat (39) - (41) for passenger's side

- Watch the starter power cable

43) Remove engine block ground cable attachment...

- I had a ground from battery to the engine mount bracket - to - engine bolt
- Then a ground from the engine- to the frame- side of the engine mount

44) Remove starter and starter power cable.

- Careful, it's heavy!

45) Remove lower radiator hose

46) Disconnect power steering hoses from pump

- Careful -- have a drip pan ready, as the fluid will run out

47) TBI: Disconnect fuel line from rear of TBI

48) TBI: Disconnect fuel return line from TBI

49) TBI: Remove "distribution ring" from top of TBI body

50) Disconnect line from brake booster to center of intake manifold

51) TBI: Disocnnect tranny kickdown and throttle cable from TBI

52) TBI: Disconnect TBI to PCV hose

53) TBI: Remove TBI body and adapter

54) Remove throttle cable bracket from rear of manifold near PCV

55) Remove vacuum gauge line from port on rear of manifold

- I added the gauge; it's not stock.

56) Remove vacuum line from rear of manifold to vent control ball on firewall

57) Remove oil pan mounting bolts that have tranny cooler line brackets

- One on passenger side, one on driver side, both near rear of pan

58) Remove engine mount nuts

59) Remove tranny / torque converter dust cover

60) Get a jack under the tranny and support it

61) Remove 4 top of tranny bellhousing - to - engine bolts.

- One bolt had a shoulder, rather than being all threads. This one was second in
from the passenger side, and secured the filler/dipstick
- I did this from outside the engine, but have LOONG arms, and it was a real
pain... I think one of the books I read instructed me to remove the carpet and
go at it from a tranny access plate inside... but I just laid the carpet down,
and really didn't want to pull it out. Those of you without freakishly-long
arms may have to climb into the engine bay / etc?

62) Remove four torque converter bolts

- Mark the torque converter and flywheel to aid reinstallation later
- I used white out again... I also white-out the line on the harmonic balancer
for timing... Doesn't necessarily look great, but it makes a world of

63) Remove transmission kickdown linkage bracket from driver's side rear of

- I didn't know it was bolted and pulled it badly when I first tried to remove
the engine!

64) Remove 2 bigger, lowest-on-each-side tranny-to-envine bolts

- I think I wound up getting these from underneath. Definitely a pain... a
fine-toothed ratchet was a big help here.

65) Hoist and remove engine from bay... then remove and hoist favorite
beverage from fridge!

- I used a lifting plate. $9.99 at Kragen, iirc. Kept the intake manifold
covered, made lifting easy. As I was working in a garage with a low ceiling, I
didn't really want to use too much chain.

"Reinstallation is the reverse of removal."

Kidding! Kidding... Here's some installation notes...

- I had a bit of trouble getting the engine and tranny lined up.. this would
have gone a lot quicker with two people. It took a jack under the tranny,
adjusting it up and down, tilting the motor, and applying Brute Force, but it
eventually went in. Again, this is my first swap of a motor like this (did a
little honda many moons ago) so I don't really have a good feel for "how much
force" is "enough," so I may have been too careful...

- I made the mistake of bolting the tranny to the engine before trying to bolt
the torque converter to the flexplate. Duh. Line up the engine / tranny, start
the bolts, but don't tighten -- then go underneath and get the TC / flexplate
lined up and bolted together. This takes a bit of patience, and may be easier
with an assistant to crank the engine, but I did ok, cranking with one hand and
trying to line up with the other. Don't put the spark plugs in until after you
get the TC on... or the engine will be a lot harder to turn.

- I habitually replaced most of the bolts on the engine, as I have a hardware
store with a good selection of grade 8's just a quick walk away. I replaced the
exhaust manifold bolts with grade 8's based on having read that the "hollow"
bolts don't help much... I did use anti-seize and I'm sure I'll be grateful
later. Replaced a lot of the accessory mounting bolts, too...

- Carefully labelling *everything* -- and taking copious notes -- made the
installation much, much easier than it coulda been. Because I wasn't frustrated
trying to figure out what everything was, I was able to take my time, and spend
some time cleaning up bad wiring / routing from previous work. As ya' can tell
from this write up, I have pages and pages and pages of notes... and putting the
engine back in was just a matter of checking each page off.

- I took off the brackets for the alternator and PS Pump.... and was glad I had
a second engine to look at. These things are a bit Rube Goldberg-y, on my engine
at least, with several different bolt lengths, bushings, odd alignments, etc...
I shoulda taken more notes / drawn the set up before disassembling!

- She didn't fire right up... but it was just a matter of resetting the
distributor closer to where it was supposed to be... musta been turned in
removing the engine. I didn't have to pull it / find TDC / etc... just checked
the engine sittin' on the flor and got it close... then she fired, and away we

- This is probably obvious, but having a big box of latex gloves made the job
much more pleasant for my hands, my books, and my bathroom sink. ; )

It was a lot of work, and took several days (slow, 4-5 hour days, and I painted
a lot of stuff / cleaned things up). But it really wasn't *hard*. In fact, it
was straightforward enough that I'm almost - almost - tempted to find / build a
rippin' 401 and just swap it in and out every 2 years for smog checks...

Fire away with any questions / comments / improvements! Hope this helps
--------------<br />1982 Cherokee Laredo WT 360/727<br />\"The Canyonero!\"<br />San Francisco, CA
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