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  #1  
Old 04-08-2022, 08:17 PM
sierrablue's Avatar
sierrablue sierrablue is online now
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The '71 Wagoneer

After the '88 project fell through (http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showt...7#post1734777), I was searching for another ride. I kind of wanted to go for a Mustang, but northern MN doesn't agree with those too well... So I was looking at XJs, Subaru Forester XTs, some Broncos, and FSJs (mostly that didn't have a drivetrain). I was leaning towards a '78 Bronco, when I was told "You have to see this!"

"This" was a super solid, Sierra Blue 1971 Wagoneer. The seller was in OR, and had rewired the whole thing, as well as having repainted it. The engine bay and the underside were hardly touched; all he did was rewire it, and throw a 1406 Edelbrock onto the stock 2-barrel manifold. Needless to say, we went for it.

So it's been rewired and repainted. It had a Buick 350 (but the long block was from a late '70s Buick), and still has the TH400+Dana 20 t-case. The rear end is stock (well, it's a '71), and the front axle is a '74-'79 narrow track, of course, with disc brakes and locking hubs. Still no power brakes though No A/C, the power rear window was replaced with a crank, just power steering. It has stock hubcaps off a '72 (which I was disappointed about; the factory ones for this one were the Kraiger look-alikes with Kaiser Jeep logos in them)(though these ones should help margionally with aerodynamics, and thus mileage). It has new carpet, and needs some better covering in the back (1" thick mat that doesn't cover the wheel wells or all of the cargo area). The factory roof rack is still there, and it has a heavy duty trailer hitch, and still has a spare tire carrier underneath. Hankook H724 225/75r15 tires came on it...whitewalls that seem to do really well. So yeah...you guys have an idea what it looks like (I'll get pics posted at some point).

When we got it, it was really hard to get started when it'd been sitting for any extended period of time (2 or 3 days+). But the bigger issue was 5- and 40-psi compression readings on two of the cylinders on the passenger's side. So we got that head redone, and started getting some more fine tuning done. As it turned out, the tank was full of nasty junk (you know it's bad when one small bottle of gas that's been through the filter is darker than apple cider). I did electrolysis on it, and it was okay for a while, but it was leaking some out the middle seam. Long story short I got good tank out of a '79 Cherokee...I need to reseal the o-rings, but it seems to be doing really well. And I can fill it on full speed without having to top it off, every time now.

So once the fuel system was relatively well sorted (including rebuilding the carb a couple of times from that stuff in the tank), I started getting to drive it, and tune it. I put in some smaller jets, and changed the metering rods/springs. I also gave it 12 degrees of timing...someone previously set it at around 5...that woke it up and got me into the 13s for mileage last summer. I worked out other little things, but nothing too major there. Door seals, 3" tailpipe section (put it behind the rear axle; we already had the 3" from the '88), stuff like that. But the important part was that I got to drive it to work last summer, and got to know it pretty well.

Then fall came around, and I realized that the 160 degree thermostat was not going to keep me very warm this winter. It barely kept me warm when it was 45 degrees out; -20 was gonna be a nightmare. So I got a 195 from T/A (not my recommendation now), and at the same time I got an HEI distributor from them (long story short: I put a high output coil on and burned out the Pertronix unit, at a stoplight, and the next day installed some points in the Perkin's parking lot to get it home). This is when things started to get interesting.

A couple of things happened at that point. I drove it for a little bit with the HEI, and it was running great then. I added the 195 thermostat and it was like 80 degrees inside while it was barely 15 outside. Then the timing cover gasket blew. Turns out that it was missing a bolt...anyway, that was fun. It actually ran just fine; it just sprayed antifreeze everywhere once it got warm. But I'd done the main seal already, so I knew there wasn't much life left in the main bearings, and it had developed a knock that week, so I started searching for another B350. This is going to be in a new post...this is getting long.
__________________
Current Rig:
'71 Wagoneer (DD)
B350/TH400/D20
open knuckle D44 front (disc brakes)
6-lug conversion rear
http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showt...79#post1734879

Previous Rig:
Tan '88 Grand Wagoneer
.030 over 401, TBI, headers
3" exhaust
31x10.5s
2" rear lift blocks
custom headliner
http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showt...77#post1734777

"The engineering side of me says that it's more than strong enough. The redneck side of me says that it's going to fall apart and I need to beef it up."--somebody I know
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  #2  
Old 04-08-2022, 08:44 PM
sierrablue's Avatar
sierrablue sierrablue is online now
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Join Date: Jan 24, 2022
Location: Northern MN
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So the new B350 I found was on Facebook Marketplace. Really cheap for a good motor that needed reassembled (disassembled down to a short block), and the guy said "that's the price for all of the extra B350 parts I have that you want; the rest are going to the scrap yard." Included in these parts were a stock 4-barrel intake and carb, a stock 2-barrel carb (he had the intake but I didn't want another one), and a few other goodies I needed/wanted.

So early in December I got it moving again...for the time being I had the Edelbrock, but the 4-barrel manifold underneath it. That was mostly just to get it moving faster. Right out of the box it had really low oil pressure when it was warm...like 2 psi at idle. But in those goodies I got a high volume pump kit; I installed that to help the 50-y.o. bearings, and now it's at 23 or so at idle, and just under 40 cruising at 60 (somewhere in the 2600-2750 range). I need to put some Heli-coils in the timing cover (rebuilding the oil pump a few times I stripped a couple of the threads out...it leaks some but not too much). I'm running 10W-40 for the zinc to help protect the engine. I should probably have run 10W-30 in the bitter cold, but I didn't.

Actually recently we've discovered that it may have a decent cam in it. It seems to have a little bit of a lope at idle, and is still making really good power for a 50-y.o. V8. It dynoed (under the PO, two barrel) at just barely under the stock specs, 50 years old.

There's been some I got done on it (with the cooling system) (http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=190643), basically a Summit clamp-in radiator, with the lower straps welded in, and a custom top strap. This allowed me to run a Taurus electric cooling fan, which is a really nice upgrade. A couple of weeks ago, I installed a Qjet (not what came with the intake; that one had stripped threads and didn't want to cooperate). I also installed a Bosch "Ecogauge", which is their Style Line II vacuum gauge (I have the Bosch gauges under the dash for oil pressure and volts, and an Autometer tach), and the two of those got me to change my driving style (and the Qjet has better metering; smaller primary venturies=better metering=better mileage), so I was up to 14.05 mpg on the last tank (on winter gas, in 4x4 for like 25 miles at 40-50 mph), which is easily the best I've gotten since the swap, and definitely the best on winter gas. We're hoping for 16 w/summer gas, hubs unlocked for the entire tank, and 60+ degrees out. And I may be getting a D20 overdrive figured out here...

One more post, with future plans for it on here. It may wait until tomorrow though.
__________________
Current Rig:
'71 Wagoneer (DD)
B350/TH400/D20
open knuckle D44 front (disc brakes)
6-lug conversion rear
http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showt...79#post1734879

Previous Rig:
Tan '88 Grand Wagoneer
.030 over 401, TBI, headers
3" exhaust
31x10.5s
2" rear lift blocks
custom headliner
http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showt...77#post1734777

"The engineering side of me says that it's more than strong enough. The redneck side of me says that it's going to fall apart and I need to beef it up."--somebody I know
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  #3  
Old 04-13-2022, 05:20 PM
sierrablue's Avatar
sierrablue sierrablue is online now
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Join Date: Jan 24, 2022
Location: Northern MN
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A few other things I haven't mentioned that I got done (small things so I'll just list them):

-Retrosound radio head unit (PO put in 4 hidden Pioneer speakers)
-headlight relays
-LED gauge cluster, running/brake/turn signals (electronic flashers of course)

And that's about it; you guys know how working on these things goes.

As for future upgrades/projects
-custom headliner out of the '88
-shoulder belts (front and rear)
-slotted Al wheels?
-stock '80s Cherokee/J10 Warn hub (left)(right already installed)
-D20 overdrive (I'm guessing some people here will want a write up on that)
-rebuilding the inside of the front seat (springs, foam)
-ultimately, an EV conversion, though probably not in the immediate future
-undercoating***has to be done before next winter
-LED headlights, eventually (I know, they don't melt the snow, but it's cold enough here that the Halogens don't really either)

Meanwhile, new radiator and heater core so I can drive it in peace for now...let's hope it stays that way
__________________
Current Rig:
'71 Wagoneer (DD)
B350/TH400/D20
open knuckle D44 front (disc brakes)
6-lug conversion rear
http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showt...79#post1734879

Previous Rig:
Tan '88 Grand Wagoneer
.030 over 401, TBI, headers
3" exhaust
31x10.5s
2" rear lift blocks
custom headliner
http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showt...77#post1734777

"The engineering side of me says that it's more than strong enough. The redneck side of me says that it's going to fall apart and I need to beef it up."--somebody I know
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  #4  
Old 04-17-2022, 01:33 PM
sierrablue's Avatar
sierrablue sierrablue is online now
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Join Date: Jan 24, 2022
Location: Northern MN
Posts: 156
OK, so I have a few questions regarding various things on this Jeep. Nothing high priority, and I probably won't do a lot of it in the near future.

1. Springs. I'm pretty sure my spring bushings are pretty well shot, so I'm definitely going to be replacing those this year, and I'll probably go poly if I can, just for the longevity and to stiffen things up a bit. My question is regarding add-leaf- type things though. I don't want to add any lift to the Jeep, but I wouldn't mind a little bit of a stiffer ride, with a little more feel. Nothing crazy, and like I said I don't want to add any lift to it. I also notice that it still has the spring snubbers on the frame in the front, so that when you hit a certain point in the travel, it shortens the length of the spring that's being used, effectively stiffening the ride. Could I set it up so that I didn't need that snubber? Do I even need it now? I don't want to risk bottoming the suspension out at any kind of speed due to soft springs, but it also seems like if I hit a big bump with one side and don't with the other, that could cause some funky handling because of the change in spring rate only being on one side. Right now I can't tell because the steering is goofy with the bad bushings. I'm not sure I'll persue it, but I'd like to know.

2. Steering box. My steering box isn't in great shape, and as I mentioned before I ultimately want to do an EV conversion on the Jeep. Rather than continuing with the old hydraulic steering boost (which would require running a pump with an EV), I kind of want to put in an electric steering box. The one in it isn't done yet, but I'm just curious if anyone knows about installing one of those Toyota electric-boosted steering boxes. Plus if I use one of those with the B350, then I should see a boost in mileage, to some extent, because that power steering pump won't be sitting there sucking up power the entire time it's running.

3. This will for sure come up in the near future. We ordered an overdrive adapter, just the adapter, no overdrive unit attached, to go on the back of the Dana 20, allowing me to put a Borg Warner R10 or R11 behind the Dana 20. The guy we bought it from swears up and down that the adapter is for a Bronco Dana 20 only, and that it won't fit a regular Dana 20. It's a Rancho Jeep Supply piece, and Herm the Overdrive Guy has a link to a Bronco site with info on the overdrive...while his page has it mounted on a Jeep D18. Does anyone have any experience with the output shafts on both? Is there any difference in the bolt pattern on the output shaft on the Bronco Dana 20 vs. everyone else's?

Thank you, I hope that made some sense. Happy Easter (and coincidently this year, also National Ford Mustang Day), everyone!
__________________
Current Rig:
'71 Wagoneer (DD)
B350/TH400/D20
open knuckle D44 front (disc brakes)
6-lug conversion rear
http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showt...79#post1734879

Previous Rig:
Tan '88 Grand Wagoneer
.030 over 401, TBI, headers
3" exhaust
31x10.5s
2" rear lift blocks
custom headliner
http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showt...77#post1734777

"The engineering side of me says that it's more than strong enough. The redneck side of me says that it's going to fall apart and I need to beef it up."--somebody I know
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  #5  
Old 04-17-2022, 02:19 PM
Heep-J4000's Avatar
Heep-J4000 Heep-J4000 is offline
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Location: Schoorl ,the Nederlands
Posts: 591
What I know about the Dana 20 transfer case is that the Jeep is right side and bronco is left side with different bolt pattern for the transmission and different ratio.

The inside gears can be switched in between , the bronco transfer ratio is better for off roading , so some use the inside gears for their jeep.
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Jeep "because mother nature hates flat roads to"

http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=180974

99' Dodge ram 2500 4x4 crew cab 5.9 Cummins ,backup work truck for now
73' Jeep J4000 (named Heep or Desert Dragon) amc 360 V8 converted to LPG with T15/D20 (was my daily work truck for thirteen years and is getting major overhaul at the moment!)
80' Jeep cj5 350 V8 Chevy/sm420/D300 project
70/71 Jeep J4000 parts truck with Buick 350

Former vehicles:
85' Volkswagen caddy mk1 1.6 diesel.
83 Toyota land cruiser BJ42 3.4 diesel.
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  #6  
Old 04-17-2022, 02:30 PM
sierrablue's Avatar
sierrablue sierrablue is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Heep-J4000
What I know about the Dana 20 transfer case is that the Jeep is right side and bronco is left side with different bolt pattern for the transmission and different ratio.

The inside gears can be switched in between , the bronco transfer ratio is better for off roading , so some use the inside gears for their jeep.
Yep, that lines up with what I've read. The broncos have like a 2.30something:1 low range verses the Jeep's 2.03:1. My big question is the bolt pattern on the output shaft. The claim is that the seal kit for it says 'Bronco' on it so it doesn't fit anything else? That's what it sounds like at least. I'm pretty sure they're the same (I can't find any references anywhere indicating otherwise)(and you would think there would be a note somewhere in the D20 overdrive discussions on various threads about that if there were a difference, right?), but I just want to verify that. It would really suck to have everything all ready to go, and pull it apart one weekend just to discover that they're different.
__________________
Current Rig:
'71 Wagoneer (DD)
B350/TH400/D20
open knuckle D44 front (disc brakes)
6-lug conversion rear
http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showt...79#post1734879

Previous Rig:
Tan '88 Grand Wagoneer
.030 over 401, TBI, headers
3" exhaust
31x10.5s
2" rear lift blocks
custom headliner
http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showt...77#post1734777

"The engineering side of me says that it's more than strong enough. The redneck side of me says that it's going to fall apart and I need to beef it up."--somebody I know
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  #7  
Old 04-17-2022, 02:36 PM
Heep-J4000's Avatar
Heep-J4000 Heep-J4000 is offline
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Join Date: Feb 09, 2014
Location: Schoorl ,the Nederlands
Posts: 591
About your electric steering conversion ,I only have seen a Landrover 109 that had kind of a electric steering conversion from a Renault car.
It did not work for long so the owner switched back to manual steering.

It's years ago and development didn't stand still ,so maybe your idea does work.

I'm not much a electric car person , but a electric full size jeep sounds interesting!
In the UK there are a lot of classic cars that are converted to electric with good results.
__________________
Jeep "because mother nature hates flat roads to"

http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=180974

99' Dodge ram 2500 4x4 crew cab 5.9 Cummins ,backup work truck for now
73' Jeep J4000 (named Heep or Desert Dragon) amc 360 V8 converted to LPG with T15/D20 (was my daily work truck for thirteen years and is getting major overhaul at the moment!)
80' Jeep cj5 350 V8 Chevy/sm420/D300 project
70/71 Jeep J4000 parts truck with Buick 350

Former vehicles:
85' Volkswagen caddy mk1 1.6 diesel.
83 Toyota land cruiser BJ42 3.4 diesel.
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  #8  
Old 04-17-2022, 02:42 PM
Heep-J4000's Avatar
Heep-J4000 Heep-J4000 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sierrablue
Yep, that lines up with what I've read. The broncos have like a 2.30something:1 low range verses the Jeep's 2.03:1. My big question is the bolt pattern on the output shaft. The claim is that the seal kit for it says 'Bronco' on it so it doesn't fit anything else? That's what it sounds like at least. I'm pretty sure they're the same (I can't find any references anywhere indicating otherwise)(and you would think there would be a note somewhere in the D20 overdrive discussions on various threads about that if there were a difference, right?), but I just want to verify that. It would really suck to have everything all ready to go, and pull it apart one weekend just to discover that they're different.

I don't know if it could help you , but I have two Dana 20 transfer cases from behind a T-15 transmission.
One is from my j4000 and the other came with another transmission that i used for parts.

I could disassemble one and take a look or measure for you if that helps!?
Let me know what you want to know!
__________________
Jeep "because mother nature hates flat roads to"

http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=180974

99' Dodge ram 2500 4x4 crew cab 5.9 Cummins ,backup work truck for now
73' Jeep J4000 (named Heep or Desert Dragon) amc 360 V8 converted to LPG with T15/D20 (was my daily work truck for thirteen years and is getting major overhaul at the moment!)
80' Jeep cj5 350 V8 Chevy/sm420/D300 project
70/71 Jeep J4000 parts truck with Buick 350

Former vehicles:
85' Volkswagen caddy mk1 1.6 diesel.
83 Toyota land cruiser BJ42 3.4 diesel.
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  #9  
Old 04-17-2022, 02:46 PM
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Heep-J4000 Heep-J4000 is offline
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Join Date: Feb 09, 2014
Location: Schoorl ,the Nederlands
Posts: 591
I have bought parts from Novak adapters for my T-15 transmission in the past.
Maybe you can give them a call with your questions about the Dana 20 transfer cases.
They are very helpful ,so maybe they can give you the right answer!?
__________________
Jeep "because mother nature hates flat roads to"

http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=180974

99' Dodge ram 2500 4x4 crew cab 5.9 Cummins ,backup work truck for now
73' Jeep J4000 (named Heep or Desert Dragon) amc 360 V8 converted to LPG with T15/D20 (was my daily work truck for thirteen years and is getting major overhaul at the moment!)
80' Jeep cj5 350 V8 Chevy/sm420/D300 project
70/71 Jeep J4000 parts truck with Buick 350

Former vehicles:
85' Volkswagen caddy mk1 1.6 diesel.
83 Toyota land cruiser BJ42 3.4 diesel.
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  #10  
Old 04-17-2022, 03:59 PM
sierrablue's Avatar
sierrablue sierrablue is online now
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Location: Northern MN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Heep-J4000
I have bought parts from Novak adapters for my T-15 transmission in the past.
Maybe you can give them a call with your questions about the Dana 20 transfer cases.
They are very helpful ,so maybe they can give you the right answer!?
There is a chance, we'll see. The adapter isn't actually here yet, so any measurements and stuff is pretty much irrelevant at this point. Thanks, though; I'll let you know if/when I do. I may contact them, we'll see; the issue there is that they don't really deal with the output shaft side of things; they work with engine to transmission and transmission to transfer case adapters. And if nothing else, I can probably call Herm the Overdrive Guy (hermtheoverdriveguy.com) and I'm sure he'll know. Thanks for getting back to me.
__________________
Current Rig:
'71 Wagoneer (DD)
B350/TH400/D20
open knuckle D44 front (disc brakes)
6-lug conversion rear
http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showt...79#post1734879

Previous Rig:
Tan '88 Grand Wagoneer
.030 over 401, TBI, headers
3" exhaust
31x10.5s
2" rear lift blocks
custom headliner
http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showt...77#post1734777

"The engineering side of me says that it's more than strong enough. The redneck side of me says that it's going to fall apart and I need to beef it up."--somebody I know
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  #11  
Old 04-19-2022, 11:20 AM
sierrablue's Avatar
sierrablue sierrablue is online now
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Join Date: Jan 24, 2022
Location: Northern MN
Posts: 156
The D20 adapter came yesterday; it looks like the output shafts are the same between the Broncos and the other D20s. The PO ordered a gasket kit for the Bronco D20, not for the adapter piece. So that should be solved...now to piece together the rest of the stuff I need for an overdrive...
__________________
Current Rig:
'71 Wagoneer (DD)
B350/TH400/D20
open knuckle D44 front (disc brakes)
6-lug conversion rear
http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showt...79#post1734879

Previous Rig:
Tan '88 Grand Wagoneer
.030 over 401, TBI, headers
3" exhaust
31x10.5s
2" rear lift blocks
custom headliner
http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showt...77#post1734777

"The engineering side of me says that it's more than strong enough. The redneck side of me says that it's going to fall apart and I need to beef it up."--somebody I know
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  #12  
Old 04-19-2022, 02:03 PM
Heep-J4000's Avatar
Heep-J4000 Heep-J4000 is offline
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Location: Schoorl ,the Nederlands
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What kind of transmission does your Jeep have?

And is the Buick 350 screaming on the highway that you going to place a overdrive!?

My amc 360 with t-15 and 4.10 diffs did around 125 kilometers per hour because I wanted to keep it in one piece for as long as possible!

How is the Buick engine behaving overall?
I have 70/71 j4000 that has the 350 Buick with a manual transmission.
Bought it as a non runner through this forum three years ago and finally could pick it up from the Rotterdam harbour last January.
It's parked at a friend's garage at the moment and haven't had enough time to look it over for what it has for drivetrain etc
Also don't really know what I'm going to do with it.
It was cheap and at first I had plans to use the sheet metal and cab on my 73 j4000.
But the shipping from the states took a way longer than it was planned ,so I did re-use the original cab and sheet I already had.

But I'm just wondering how a jeep drives with the Buick engine!
__________________
Jeep "because mother nature hates flat roads to"

http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=180974

99' Dodge ram 2500 4x4 crew cab 5.9 Cummins ,backup work truck for now
73' Jeep J4000 (named Heep or Desert Dragon) amc 360 V8 converted to LPG with T15/D20 (was my daily work truck for thirteen years and is getting major overhaul at the moment!)
80' Jeep cj5 350 V8 Chevy/sm420/D300 project
70/71 Jeep J4000 parts truck with Buick 350

Former vehicles:
85' Volkswagen caddy mk1 1.6 diesel.
83 Toyota land cruiser BJ42 3.4 diesel.
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  #13  
Old 04-19-2022, 03:44 PM
sierrablue's Avatar
sierrablue sierrablue is online now
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Join Date: Jan 24, 2022
Location: Northern MN
Posts: 156
Quote:
Originally Posted by Heep-J4000
What kind of transmission does your Jeep have?

And is the Buick 350 screaming on the highway that you going to place a overdrive!?

My amc 360 with t-15 and 4.10 diffs did around 125 kilometers per hour because I wanted to keep it in one piece for as long as possible!

How is the Buick engine behaving overall?
I have 70/71 j4000 that has the 350 Buick with a manual transmission.
Bought it as a non runner through this forum three years ago and finally could pick it up from the Rotterdam harbour last January.
It's parked at a friend's garage at the moment and haven't had enough time to look it over for what it has for drivetrain etc
Also don't really know what I'm going to do with it.
It was cheap and at first I had plans to use the sheet metal and cab on my 73 j4000.
But the shipping from the states took a way longer than it was planned ,so I did re-use the original cab and sheet I already had.

But I'm just wondering how a jeep drives with the Buick engine!

I have the TH400 auto. I have 3.50 gears (though probably smaller tires than you have) so cruising isn't TOO bad right now. But it's still 2600-2750 RPMs.

The B350s are nice solid V8s. They have more power than the AMC 360 (more comparable to the 401), and weigh about what an AMC inline 6 weighs. They're also pretty hard to break. I mean, given what I know now, I can't believe that this one ran at all when I got it. The gas going into it was a dark brown color (tank needed cleaned), and two of the cylinders had little/no compression. And it somehow still cruised at 60 when we got it.
__________________
Current Rig:
'71 Wagoneer (DD)
B350/TH400/D20
open knuckle D44 front (disc brakes)
6-lug conversion rear
http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showt...79#post1734879

Previous Rig:
Tan '88 Grand Wagoneer
.030 over 401, TBI, headers
3" exhaust
31x10.5s
2" rear lift blocks
custom headliner
http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showt...77#post1734777

"The engineering side of me says that it's more than strong enough. The redneck side of me says that it's going to fall apart and I need to beef it up."--somebody I know
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  #14  
Old 04-19-2022, 04:28 PM
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rang-a-stang rang-a-stang is offline
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'scribing!

I have seen an aftermarket electric power steering setup but don't remember much about it. I would think that the amount of power it would use would require a bigger Alt, and the load would on the alt would conteract any MPG savings you would have lost from a power steering pump. This is all guessing though.

Are you thinking a single electric motor bolted to your transfer case or dual motors (one per axle)? either way would be super cool!
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  #15  
Old 04-19-2022, 05:00 PM
sierrablue's Avatar
sierrablue sierrablue is online now
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Talking

Quote:
Originally Posted by rang-a-stang
'scribing!

I have seen an aftermarket electric power steering setup but don't remember much about it. I would think that the amount of power it would use would require a bigger Alt, and the load would on the alt would conteract any MPG savings you would have lost from a power steering pump. This is all guessing though.

Are you thinking a single electric motor bolted to your transfer case or dual motors (one per axle)? either way would be super cool!
Thanks, rang-a-stang!

I wondered about that with the alternator, but with the 40-amp electric fan I should probably be upgrading from the factory 35-amp anyway...

My thought with the EV conversion at this point is actually to get a 4-speed to bolt up to the D20, and bolt one motor (to start with...maybe two ultimately) up to the 4-speed, with a 3-on-the-tree column (which would be doable because you wouldn't need reverse anymore). This is because even with an electric motor, it's best to have gears for different speeds. Really a two-speed or a three-speed would be fine, but finding one (one that isn't designed for a combustion engine, so the gears are underdrives), let alone one that fits the D20, will be pretty much impossible. Especially for a reasonable price. With the electrics, the steeper the gearing, the more power you're making, but also the more power you're using. For cruising you'll get the best range in a low power, high RPM (like 8-12,000 in a lot of them). I believe the Teslas have a two-speed in them.

I did really want to do the one motor per axle thing for a while. The trouble is that doing that would add so much unsprung weight, and it could cause clearance issues. On top of that, you would constantly have the wires moving around with the axles, and all of this is assuming you figured out how to mount them to the axles without them going anywhere (yes, it could obviously be done). I know, you could design a complete, fully-independent suspension setup with the motors in the middle, but then the steel frame and body would be overkill so you would want to design an aluminum tube chassis and fiberglass body...at that point, just buy a Rivian and be done. (they are cool trucks, though they're expensive and still entertainment systems on wheels).
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Current Rig:
'71 Wagoneer (DD)
B350/TH400/D20
open knuckle D44 front (disc brakes)
6-lug conversion rear
http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showt...79#post1734879

Previous Rig:
Tan '88 Grand Wagoneer
.030 over 401, TBI, headers
3" exhaust
31x10.5s
2" rear lift blocks
custom headliner
http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showt...77#post1734777

"The engineering side of me says that it's more than strong enough. The redneck side of me says that it's going to fall apart and I need to beef it up."--somebody I know
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Old 04-26-2022, 03:20 PM
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sierrablue sierrablue is online now
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Posts: 156
So recently the driver's side brake has been hanging up on me, and I went through and cleaned+greased the bushings on the caliper. It works way better now, and the last tank was up to 15.23 mpg, which is more than half a mile per gallon better than my previous best. And I'm pretty sure we're still on winter gas up here, so that's pretty good I think.

Here's my question though; on this thread. I noticed while I was in there that my brake hoses need replaced. Anybody know where to fing stock height braided stainless steel front brake hoses for a '74 Waggy/Cherokee?

Thread on it: http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showt...67#post1735067

Thank you!
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Current Rig:
'71 Wagoneer (DD)
B350/TH400/D20
open knuckle D44 front (disc brakes)
6-lug conversion rear
http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showt...79#post1734879

Previous Rig:
Tan '88 Grand Wagoneer
.030 over 401, TBI, headers
3" exhaust
31x10.5s
2" rear lift blocks
custom headliner
http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showt...77#post1734777

"The engineering side of me says that it's more than strong enough. The redneck side of me says that it's going to fall apart and I need to beef it up."--somebody I know
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  #17  
Old 04-30-2022, 09:42 PM
sierrablue's Avatar
sierrablue sierrablue is online now
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OK, so I'm planning to get some stock height '74+ Wagoneer/Cherokee hoses...at the same time I know my bushings are pretty well shot in the springs/shackles. I think I'm gonna go poly--most of my driving is on-road and I'm not too worried about picking up more vibrations in a steel Jeep with no sway bars or track bars Plus the Hankooks have a really soft sidewall, so I doubt I'll run into problems with vibrations and whatnot. Some of the bolts that allow younto grease the bushings may be in order though...keep things from squeaking. And the poly ones are slightly cheaper.

So I know what I need for the front, and I found it all. Looks like the standard front spring kit with the 1.5" rear bushings ought to work, and the 1.5" shackle bushings. I'm in a bigger hurry to do the front than the rear, but anybody know where to find the rear shackle bushings for a Kaiser-era Wagoneer? The spring bushings are the same as the '74-'75 I know, but the Kaisers had a 7/8" shackle bushing and the '74-'75 got the 1". I'd like to be consistent using poly all around (and it's easier to install), but I just can't seem to find anything, even rubber. Thanks!
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Current Rig:
'71 Wagoneer (DD)
B350/TH400/D20
open knuckle D44 front (disc brakes)
6-lug conversion rear
http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showt...79#post1734879

Previous Rig:
Tan '88 Grand Wagoneer
.030 over 401, TBI, headers
3" exhaust
31x10.5s
2" rear lift blocks
custom headliner
http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showt...77#post1734777

"The engineering side of me says that it's more than strong enough. The redneck side of me says that it's going to fall apart and I need to beef it up."--somebody I know
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  #18  
Old 05-01-2022, 09:26 AM
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bkilby bkilby is offline
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Location: Burbank Ca.
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Maybe this link will help ID the bushing you need. Good luck finding it in Poly though. http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=73856
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  #19  
Old 06-10-2022, 11:40 AM
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sierrablue sierrablue is online now
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Join Date: Jan 24, 2022
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Posts: 156
Lots has happened on the Jeep since the last post; here's the run-down.

First off, I have the new poly bushings and brake hoses here, but all that I've installed is the front brake hoses. Went with the stock-2" height braided stainless lines from BJ's, and got the bushings from them too. Those went in no problem; they're the right length.

It did die on me once--I think the terminal on the key that was running the coil died. No power to that wire anyway; I hooked up a new one on a new terminal, and it didn't even hesitate to start up. But now the distributor has a new cap, rotor, and control module, too, so it should be good to go for a while. I also upped the timing, first to 16 or so, but that was just a little too much (pinging when hot going up one of our "steep" hills (it is fairly steep for a highway hill, but it's no mountain either), so now it's at like 15 or so (I just backed it off a little by hand; no light), which got me 15 mpg...when I was driving it such that it previously would've gotten 13ish. So that's a definite improvement. And I can't believe how quiet it is cruising, with 3.50s and no overdrive; it's really nice.

My most recent project is the headliner. I finally got tired of the black Kaiser era one (nothing wrong with the material itself, but it hadn't been installed quite right), and pulled it out. I was super excited to discover that it not only has the points for front shoulder belts (yes, they're a long ways back, and probably going to be somewhat annoying for people getting in and out of the back, but it doesn't move the retractor back any, so it shouldn't be too bad to deal with), but it also has the points up top for rears. So that is awesome. And the rattle the roof makes is because the roof bows don't have anything between them and the roof...guess I'll get some more topper foam to fix that issue.

As for what I'm putting in for a headliner, it's the custom one we did for the '88. It has the stock boards and everything, and then we took some headliner adhesive and some custom fabric, and made a constellation headliner. I have to drill holes to allow for the use of front shoulder belts (the '88 had them mounted to the B-pillar of course), and I need to cut a hole in the board for the rearview mirror to go through. You have to drill quite a few holes in the body, too, but they're small and not major. At this point, I have the rails running down the sides installed, and everything is sitting in place being test-fit. I have to pull it all back out, but it's going to fit and look good. After I get some topper foam on the roof braces, I'm going to add the wires I need for the newer style dome lights, and make the modifications I need to on the front headliner board. Then I should be able to get everything in place for good, and get some help with drilling the holes for the steel straps that go along the front and back of the headliner. Lots of work still, but it's coming along, and seems to be going pretty well.

So that's the update on the '71; I'm making progress for sure
__________________
Current Rig:
'71 Wagoneer (DD)
B350/TH400/D20
open knuckle D44 front (disc brakes)
6-lug conversion rear
http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showt...79#post1734879

Previous Rig:
Tan '88 Grand Wagoneer
.030 over 401, TBI, headers
3" exhaust
31x10.5s
2" rear lift blocks
custom headliner
http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showt...77#post1734777

"The engineering side of me says that it's more than strong enough. The redneck side of me says that it's going to fall apart and I need to beef it up."--somebody I know
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  #20  
Old 06-10-2022, 12:01 PM
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devildog80 devildog80 is online now
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Join Date: Apr 13, 2022
Location: Apache Junction AZ
Posts: 297
And good progress it is.

Keep the updates coming
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'81 CJ5 Base, 258 I6, MC2100, T176 4 spd, 300 TC, D30 Front NT, 3.31, 2-Piece AMC 20 rear NT, 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift

'84 Grand Wagoneer, 401 V8 (.030 over), MC2150 HA Comp, 727 auto, Selec-trac NP229, AMC 20 REAR - D44 FRONT - WT 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift

Rather be driving, than waiting to be modified
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