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  #1  
Old 03-01-2009, 08:39 PM
budojeepr budojeepr is offline
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Help! Column shift ignition switch

The Jeep's been down since January when I ordered a new diesel injection pump. Changing that out called for removing the intake manifold and turbo plumbing as well as the injection lines. At the same time I replaced the auto trans pan, gasket and filter.

Anyway, I got it all back together this afternoon and went to try to start it, and that's when the real trouble started...

This Wagoneer, being the high-zoot "Limited" version, has tilt column, with automatic trans. Since I replaced the column shifter with a floor version when I changed out the drivetrain, it no longer has the column shifter. It hasn't been a problem until now.

This afternoon the ignition switch became "sticky". Sometimes it will turn all the way over and actuate the starter. Sometimes it will go all the way to the power on position, but won't go far enough to engage the starter. Sometimes it will go to the "off-unlock" position where the steering wheel is unlocked but there's no current to the accessories or starter. Sometimes it won't even go that far. Doesn't matter how I turn the piece that used to turn with the column shifter. I tried every combination possible.

Any clues? My manual says the ignition switch (which is not where the key goes in) needs adjusting, but I can't see any adjustments to make and the manual doesn't have a section on that. A while ago the auto-return for the left turn signal stopped working. Think some chunks of that assembly fell into the switch rods?

I'd seriously consider putting in a dash ignition switch. Has anybody changed one of these column ignition switches out?

Thanks,

BZ
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Old 03-01-2009, 09:45 PM
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smearig smearig is offline
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I'm dealing with something like that right now. If you unbolt the switch under the dash, take the linkage rod out out and move the switch with a screw driver then it should show if you if the problem is in the actual switch or if it's a problem with the lock cylinder further up in the column. Sounds like the issue is with the switch itself, have you tested the continuity on it in the various positions?
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Old 03-01-2009, 10:01 PM
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gsmikie gsmikie is offline
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you need to tie the arm that the shifter rod hooked to at the end of the coloum on the eng side of the firewall when the arm falls down it puts the neutral switch in the wrong place and the jeep wont start it also makes the switch sticky and hard to get the key out the switch is mount on the top of the col at the firewall inside the truck
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Old 03-02-2009, 08:27 AM
budojeepr budojeepr is offline
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Sweet, thanks for the help. I found the switch, but couldn't see the mounting screws. I'll get a mirror out and see if they're on the side of the column I can't get to.

I'll also go out under the hood to see the rod coming out of the column. GSM, I didn't tie that up when I did the swap. Ugh, it's tight under there with all the glow plug wiring and the hydroboost...but if it lets me start the Wag it'll be worth it.

Again, thanks for the advice!
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Old 03-02-2009, 11:03 AM
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smearig smearig is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by budojeepr
Sweet, thanks for the help. I found the switch, but couldn't see the mounting screws. I'll get a mirror out and see if they're on the side of the column I can't get to.

I'll also go out under the hood to see the rod coming out of the column. GSM, I didn't tie that up when I did the swap. Ugh, it's tight under there with all the glow plug wiring and the hydroboost...but if it lets me start the Wag it'll be worth it.

Again, thanks for the advice!

Did you drop the support collar held on by the four bolts that is directly underneath the switch? It was pretty easy to get to after I did that and dropped the underdash a/c on that side.
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Old 03-02-2009, 06:29 PM
budojeepr budojeepr is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smearig
Did you drop the support collar held on by the four bolts that is directly underneath the switch? It was pretty easy to get to after I did that and dropped the underdash a/c on that side.
I've got stuff going on tonight - but I'll git 'er done tomorrow...
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Old 03-05-2009, 11:31 PM
budojeepr budojeepr is offline
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Denouement

I got it all to' up now...took the steering wheel off, dropped the column onto the seat, took out all the little tiny thingamajigs in there. Wasn't easy...

The switch itself (down on the column) was ok. Continuity tests proved it was just fine, worked correctly in all positions.

The remote shift rod worked just fine, once I removed the ignition lock cylinder. Although one of the turn signal self-cancel cam springs was broken, I found the largest piece, not stuck in anything. The remainder would have been small enough to just fall out of the column.

The lock cylinder, however, was bad. There are 5 little tiny springs in there that hold the tumblers in the cylinder. Two of the springs were ... I guess you'd say sprung. The key wouldn't work well enough to turn the cylinder all the way.

I ordered a new lock cylinder from AutoZone. Part # LC14270 for $29.99, if anybody's curious.

I'll post up when/if I get it working again...
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Old 03-08-2009, 07:54 PM
budojeepr budojeepr is offline
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It lives - again

Well, the switch worked. I had to drill and tap a hole through the top of the column so I could put in a set screw to hold the lock cylinder in. It's not the most secure setup in the world. I will have to count on the Jeep looking like such a jalopy that nobody in their right mind would want to steal it.

In my haste to get it running again I did something weird with the re-installation of the Grant steering wheel, so the horn wiring was continually drawing about 17 milliamps. Even though the horn worked fine when I pushed on the button, it was still drawing current when not blowing the horn. It took a while to troubleshoot that.

Then, the engine wouldn't start well (new injection pump, I figured there'd be some teething pains). I got it started finally and idling - but very roughly with lots of white smoke - and looked around. Fuel was pouring off the oil pan! I shut everything down and disconnected the batteries. Lucky, no fire.

I had not tightened one of the fuel lines coming from the pump to an injector. It had filled up the valley under the intake manifold and was pouring off the rear of the engine.

Tightening that solved two problems at once: it started and idled very nicely, and reduced the fire danger.

Anyway, thanks to all who offered help. Now I know my way around the top of the steering column!
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