1970 Wagonner (Sept 69) Kaiser Jeep Razor grill

[drcom]

Slow day today. The good news is the manual from BJs Offroad showed up. That thing is massive. I am sure it will help. Also got some wipers from Rock Auto that seem to fit. You guys are right, they don't look as good as the originals. The refills I bought from Amazon didn't fit. Someone in China doesn't know how to use a micrometer. I also got some more pics of the inside of the rear doors to look for rust. They look pretty solid. I think a nice surface sand job to remove the surface rust and some rust encap will do the doors well. Then some well placed Dynamat to quiet things down. I have a set of ABS door panels on the way so I can seal up the doors while I work on the other interior items ONCE THE TRANSMISSION SHOP gets to ti.....lol.......just kidding. I am patient and those guys are great. I did deliver 4 pounds of home grown Missouri ground beef to them as a little incentive to remember "Willow" when they are having dinner tonight.

[Heep-J4000]

Could you make a couple pictures of the inside of that manual?
I have a Chilton manual , but was thinking if there are other manuals available.
But if the inside is the same as the copy I already have its not necessary to buy a other but can't find anything about the info it has.

Thanks
And keep up the progress with the wagoneer , your doing very well!
A jeep project is never done!

[drcom]

Which topics ? Or just anything ?

[Heep-J4000]

Not a particular topic , just the first couple pages ,or the intro would be okay.

It's to see if the manual you have is totally different and with more info as the Chilton manual.

Thanks

[drcom]

Been moving pretty slow these days...here are some pics of the inside of the tech manual. This manual is really detailed and well worth the cost for the Jeep. Also, the top coat of paint is on the rear seat base. It had some surface rust. It was wired brushed and then got 2 coats of equipment paint to seal everything up. Then a matte white to match the new dash color and other interior items.

[drcom]

Today was all about gas....no, it's not chili season yet...it is time to rebuild the Rochester 2 jet on Willow. Not much to say here. I ordered the kit from Mike Carburetor Parts. It came with several gaskets to match the Rochester Carb I had. Which is 7040482 number. GM. from the Buick side. I wish it came with a power valve. I did clean it good but would have replaced it if I had known. Just a heads up for you guys. Also the main well inserts were like crumbling plastic.....I read where most don't even put them back in, so I didn't. That might cause me issues when it gets hot next summer. We will see. It's suppose to do some magic when it gets hot. Anyway. Here are some pics. Going to reinstall it in the morning at the TRANSMISSION shop....lol....yeah, I am still in line.



Also, if anyone knows what this choke looking plastic pieces is, I would like to know. The carb has a choke on it. This was on the other side of the carb. It seems like it is missing it's cover. Why would it have 2 kinds of chokes ?? What does it do ?

[drcom]

Today went pretty good. The rebuilt Rochester 2GV carb went back on smooth. The vacuum lines were so brittle they snapped...yikes, never had that happen before. Replaced with new. Carb started, choke worked. Perfect.



On another note, poor old Willow smokes like a huge mosquito fogger. There could be many things that cause this from what I know. Valves, rings, and even a clogged pcv valve might make it smoke. Since this Jeep (Willow) sat for 15 years.....well, at least that's what I was told so I guess if they lied about everything else, then why would that part of the story be true....anyway, I am guessing rings. But I started to look for the pcv valve....but there isn't one. The previous owner (insert 4 letter word here again) put a different air cleaner on it and I think maybe the pcv valve was in the old cleaner assembly but cannot find anything on the internet to confirm. Even my service manual doesn't say where it is but mentions cleaning the pcv filter inside of the air cleaner. Of course I just have a hole where I think that is suppose to be. Back to the tech section to see if someone can take some pics. A check from Autozone shows a pcv valve is available and it should be inline somewhere.






The temporary rims where fitted today. Waiting on new tires. The rims are Vision Soft 8s. Part number 85H5885NS They are 15x8 with -19 and 3.75 backspace.

[SOLSAKS]

great work

I love the original wipers

[drcom]

Thank you. There should be some more cool pics when I get her back from the transmission shop.

Originally Posted by SOLSAKS

great work

I love the original wipers

[drcom]

Progress. Yes, Willow got her underside looked at. Seems like if it could be leaking from the transmission, it WAS leaking. The speedometer cable is stripped going into the trans so I was lucky enough to find an NOS one online. It is on the way. The transfer case was full of transmission fluid....that sounds about right....right ? lol


Anyway, in less than an hour all but some very small drips were fixed and Willow took her first around the block trip for a test drive. Shifting was just like I remembered a TH400 to shift.



Here is some other good news. The blue smoke from the exhaust has stopped. The engine was running so smooth the shop owner and I looked at each other and started laughing....not sure how long that will last but she is coming home tomorrow for more extensive cleaning and checks on everything. I tried to move the front tires back and forth and it seemed really tight. I am not sure how a closed knuckle is suppose to feel. I better grease those asap.


The old girls brakes seemed to stop. Of course they are drum all the way around so it is a slow stop for sure. But hey, they stopped the big brick.



The day started with her new shoes coming in. The new wheels and tires are installed and she is safe to hit the road to the automotive shop to get her inspection. Hopefully that gets done next week. Then she gets plates.


Progress. Yes, Willow got her underside looked at. Seems like if it could be leaking from the transmission, it WAS leaking. The speedometer cable is stripped going into the trans so I was lucky enough to find an NOS one online. It is on the way. The transfer case was full of transmission fluid....that sounds about right....right ? lol


Anyway, in less than an hour all but some very small drips were fixed and Willow took her first around the block trip for a test drive. Shifting was just like I remembered a TH400 to shift.



Here is some other good news. The blue smoke from the exhaust has stopped. The engine was running so smooth the shop owner and I looked at each other and started laughing....not sure how long that will last but she is coming home tomorrow for more extensive cleaning and checks on everything. I tried to move the front tires back and forth and it seemed really tight. I am not sure how a closed knuckle is suppose to feel. I better grease those asap.


The old girls brakes seemed to stop. Of course they are drum all the way around so it is a slow stop for sure. But hey, they stopped the big brick.



The day started with her new shoes coming in. The new wheels and tires are installed and she is safe to hit the road to the automotive shop to get her inspection. Hopefully that gets done next week. Then she gets plates.

[drcom]

Those old timer upholstery guys are fast. Less than 2 weeks and BOOM, a rear seat. Cool material as the plaid is vintage material from the early 70s. The guy bought our an old timer years ago and has 24 yards of this stuff. Hard to pass up with the distressed leather look.

[inkedmonkey]

Those seats look amazing!

[rang-a-stang]

PERFECT!!! Those seats are super cool!

[Kaiserjeeps]

Great looking wagoneer. I am partial to the pre 71's as you see from my username. You have a lot to work with. It is coming along nicely. They are amazing in the snow and the Buick 350 will run forever. I am putting a lightly modified Buick 350 in a M715 on my current build. Run high zinc oil or you will find a flat cam if you don't have one already. Valvoline VR1 is easy to get and has high zinc and phos. New oils are not backwards compatible like they claim. Additives cause issues and just get VR1 or Lucas or what ever. Just get and run high ZDDP oil.
I built a 70 for a dear friend I have known for a very long time. It is currently in Seattle and I was just told yesterday he has 500 miles on it now. The build was insane and I am still recovering... I will never do one that far again. The 101 page 9 year build is here.
http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=121305
I could not find a lot of the parts I needed. So I made them. I am still set up to make these parts. Later if you need something, PM me and I will respond. So far I can make fire wall pad sets, tailgate lower ribbed panels, early pre 66 ribbed reverse light panels, door sill plate sets, headliners, and a few other things. Look at the build thread for more. I have a 1969 X model in the garage. I hope to rebuild it someday. I will post it up here if I can get to it. Seems like stuff keeps coming up to keep me from doing it. Your build caught my eye. I will check back and see how it is going. It sure is looking great and that was a great year for wagoneers.
The trick to your brake light pressure switch is to find a new old stock SL139 on ebay. That old but new switch will last 20 plus years. The new ones sold today will fail in months requiring several replacements a year. That's what we get for quality now. I know you fixed your problem and have brake lights now, but for you or anyone else wanting to keep the OEM switch, get an old new one. Keep up the great build.

[drcom]

Thank you KaiserJeeps. I know this is crazy but I read every page of your build. YOU are an inspiration to all of us with the Jeep addiction. My wife wanted this specific year and grill and I was blessed to have found one. I am disabled about 3 years now, but I do what I can and have help from my wife, son and brother. I have to pay for more things now than when I was young, but I am determined to get her on the road soon. It was an honor for you to comment on my project.

[drcom]

The drama for the last 24 hours. The transmission shop got her sealed up good enough so we can drive it around a little and see what the engine is like, On the 15 mile trip home she overheated and I shut her down to avoid any damage. Her 2nd tow..... anyway, found a radiator old school shop that will rebuild it with 3 core and keep the factory look. Going to take the heater core in also.

If anyone is interested in knowing the approximate size, they are 26.5" wide. 20" tall and 3" thick.

[Kaiserjeeps]

You are getting there. The three row core will help. Make sure you either check or replace the thermostat for when it opens (pan and a candy thermometer) and that it is in with the proper orientation. Soon you will be driving with few issues.

[drcom]

So the worst of the rust on the interior (actually the only rust) was on the floorboard of the driver side. We took the Dewalt with a wire brush and took the top loose rust off and got it pretty smooth. I have never used Eastwood's products for this and decided to give it a try. I figured it doesn't have to look pretty because the Dynamat will cover it. Besides, maybe the paint smell will over power the musty smell...or is that smell from the exhaust leak??? I might have sniffed too much fumes. Just kidding. Anyway, this Eastwood stuff is pretty good stuff from what I can see. It is very thick. There were maybe 4 little pin holes in the floorboard and this stuff sucked them closed in a hurry. No more rusty look for me in the driver area. We were hoping to do small segments but that stuff is potent and probably need to do the rest of the interior at once. A little goes a LONG way. I had so much poured out, we did the interior of the driver door and some surface rust on the door.



Oh yeah, over in the tech section we are playing "name that part"....I have no idea what it is but there is a wire running to a toggle switch on the dash.

Before pic.


Rust be suffocated !!!


Here you can see the original Spring Green. Willow will be Candle Light Yellow when done.


What is this thing ?

[drcom]

Since yesterday we decided the radiator was not really flowing any liquid.....it was more like a standing pool of brown water....so the decision was made to pull it and have it rebuilt to a 3 core. A quick observation of the heater core showed a hose running out of one pipe and into the other side of the heater core. What an odd setup...factory ??? Yeah. probably not. Why not take the heater core to be rebuilt? Copper is better than an aluminum one. So we pulled it. 90 mins start to finish and now that I know how to do it, we could probably do it in half that time. It was shot to say the least. The air coming in from the cowl was non-existent due to a nest of...well, something.



So here are a couple of notes for the old Kaiser Jeeps. Have a kid with small hands help. That bolt underneath the blower is almost impossible for an old guy. After taking the 2 nuts off closest to the engine, look for the one UNDER THE DASH BEHIND THE 51 YEAR OLD INSULATION WITH THE DOUBLE NUT.......oh, did I just yell that....sorry.



I wonder if I can spray enough lube up that cable to help the little flapper door ???

I will clean the frame myself and just get the heater core from the radiator shop.


Anyone know of an updated BLOWER ? Something that will really let loose ??



Did a little shop vac too...

[Kaiserjeeps]

I have not found a replacement heater core that fits right. They are a tad smaller and thinner if I remember correctly. I used high density foam under the holding straps. So I hate to add to your work. But if you have that much debris up in the air intake to the heater, your kick panel vent air boxes are sure to be full of all kinds of junk. All that vegetation stays wet and causes the dreaded rust. So you might want to remove the black grill (4 screws per side) and gently pry the zinc plated flapper door tunnel out of each side and dig all that junk out. You should not need to disconnect the actuator rod but it comes off easily if you look at it and see how. So get all that junk out and have a look with a light and a mirror. Clean it well in there. I use Eastwoods internal frame paint on rusty surfaces I can't clean up easily. I just ordered more of that stuff and I am happy to find you can buy it now without registering and having a stupid password to manage. I had a 4 day email conversation with a customer service rep about 2 months ago on getting rid of the need to be registered to make a simple purchase. I won't go into the silly reasons they offered. Looks like I won that one.
You can keep crap out of the plenum by removing the grill below the wipers and putting a screen in there. Or don't park under pine needles.
Looking really good. Keep up the awesome work!