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  #1  
Old 10-06-2007, 08:14 PM
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Dirtball Dirtball is offline
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Gotta be wheel bearings? New question... please look again...

I get all of the tape off my truck and the lights back on it and everything... and I decide to go on a quick ride before my wife and daughter take me out for birthday dinner. Well, I get started down the road... and I notice a faint squeak/squeal... that progressively becomes a solid squeal that changed pitch when I went around a couple of curves (yes, I was looking for a turnaround at this point). I kind of sawed the wheel back and forth, and as the body leaned one way and the other the pitch would change a little. I'm assuming wheel bearings? Is this something that's going to be a big deal if I've changed wheel bearings in regular rearwheel drive cars? I know I need the special tool... anything else?

Anyone think it's not the wheel bearings?
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1979 Cherokee N/T
360/TH400/Qtrac/D44s/rear Lock-right
6 inch Hell Creek all spring lift
34x10.50 Super Swamper LTBs
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g1...t/100_1394.jpg
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g1...t/100_1390.jpg
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g1...100_1387-2.jpg

Last edited by Dirtball : 10-08-2007 at 08:29 AM.
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  #2  
Old 10-06-2007, 09:32 PM
Santa Claus Santa Claus is offline
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If the noise goes away with a light application of brakes it is the wear indicator on the brake pads, replace pads no more noise.
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  #3  
Old 10-06-2007, 10:02 PM
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Tried that... thanks... meant to put that in the original post. I was sure hoping at the time that THAT was the problem though...
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Paul
1979 Cherokee N/T
360/TH400/Qtrac/D44s/rear Lock-right
6 inch Hell Creek all spring lift
34x10.50 Super Swamper LTBs
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g1...t/100_1394.jpg
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g1...t/100_1390.jpg
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g1...100_1387-2.jpg
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  #4  
Old 10-06-2007, 10:55 PM
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When was the last time the front hubs were serviced??

Might be worth pulling off the hub cover / locking mechanism and seeing how crusty it is in there.

You'll need a D44 lock nut socket (any major auto parts store will have 'em). Probably listed as GM lock nut socket. In the pick below it is the one next to the upper right, in the row of 4.



You'll also want to get snap ring pliers too. You'll need to get the hub seals if you are replacing / repacking the inner wheel bearings. Wouldn't hurt to do all this anyway if hubs haven't been serviced lately. If it turns out to be something else, at least you know the hubs / wheel bearings will hold up.

Another possibility is that this is a ujoint (axle or driveshaft). They will make a squeak-squeak noise when starting to go out, sometimes.

Michael
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  #5  
Old 10-07-2007, 06:15 AM
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Dirtball Dirtball is offline
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See, I would have gone and bought one of the four prong sockets without really looking at it, 'cause I thought that was what I needed... glad I've been patient!!

I was assuming snap rings... went to look for mine and apparently that's something that's still at my mom's house (I moved back there for awhile 6 years ago... and some of my junk is still there).

Some good wheel bearing grease plus those two tools and I should be good. I went and got my Haynes manual and it at least makes things LOOK fairly straightforward. As I said, I've done this before... just not on a driven frontend.

Thanks for the help.
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1979 Cherokee N/T
360/TH400/Qtrac/D44s/rear Lock-right
6 inch Hell Creek all spring lift
34x10.50 Super Swamper LTBs
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g1...t/100_1394.jpg
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g1...t/100_1390.jpg
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g1...100_1387-2.jpg
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  #6  
Old 10-07-2007, 06:19 AM
GWChris GWChris is offline
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Just did the front bearing on mine. It's not too hard if you get the right tools, but it's a dirty job cleaning out the hub. Get a bottle brush a pan, some kerosene, and brakeclean. If you drive the inner race in with the old race, like I did, be careful you do not get the old race stuck in there too! The machined recess is deeper than the race, so this isn't too hard to do.
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  #7  
Old 10-07-2007, 06:56 AM
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Dirtball Dirtball is offline
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What are all the pieces that I need to buy... that's what's confusing me... I see outer, inner, tapered, blah blah blah... I've been looking up prices on the Zone and Advance... and they seem to list more than I thought I would need... exactly what do I need to buy?

We have O'Reilly's, Advance, Autozone, NAPA, and an independent Federated close by... plus just a few true independents.
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Paul
1979 Cherokee N/T
360/TH400/Qtrac/D44s/rear Lock-right
6 inch Hell Creek all spring lift
34x10.50 Super Swamper LTBs
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g1...t/100_1394.jpg
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g1...t/100_1390.jpg
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g1...100_1387-2.jpg

Last edited by Dirtball : 10-07-2007 at 06:59 AM.
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  #8  
Old 10-07-2007, 07:10 AM
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JeepsAndGuns JeepsAndGuns is offline
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Well before you buy anything, make sure that it is in fact the wheel bearings. Take your jack and raise one wheel at a time. When the wheel is off the ground grab the top and bottom of the tire and try and move it up and down. If you feel/hear movement then its probably the wheel bearings.

Most of the time the wheel bearings come as a bearing/race set. You will the the inner and outer bearings (and races just incase they dont come with them) and also the oil seal. Lots of rags to clean out the old grease, a good long punch to drive out the old races. And a lot of new grease to pack the new bearings with.

Just one thing to keep in mind, if one side went out, the other side is probably not far behind. If it was me I would replace both sides if I could afford it.
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  #9  
Old 10-07-2007, 08:02 AM
jeepguzzi jeepguzzi is offline
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I think Shimniok misspoke. You should need a four prong socket like the two on the left in the row of four on his picture.
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  #10  
Old 10-07-2007, 09:04 AM
GWChris GWChris is offline
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Inner Bearing, Inner Race, Outer Bearing (comes with race), Inner Seal. AZ has the tool for removing the locknut (4 prong), and you need a snap ring pliers.
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  #11  
Old 10-07-2007, 10:09 AM
ninjaneer ninjaneer is offline
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Don't worry about the snap ring pliers. A small flat tip screw driver and/or needle nose pliers is all you'll need.
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  #12  
Old 10-07-2007, 01:24 PM
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Dirtball Dirtball is offline
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Thanks folks... I think I've got it now.

I'll do both sides... and, Jared, I'll give it the shake test... also will disco the front d/s and give it a spin... I can't think of anything else it could be though.
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1979 Cherokee N/T
360/TH400/Qtrac/D44s/rear Lock-right
6 inch Hell Creek all spring lift
34x10.50 Super Swamper LTBs
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g1...t/100_1394.jpg
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g1...t/100_1390.jpg
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g1...100_1387-2.jpg
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  #13  
Old 10-07-2007, 05:16 PM
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shimniok shimniok is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirtball
See, I would have gone and bought one of the four prong sockets without really looking at it, 'cause I thought that was what I needed... glad I've been patient!!

Yup. It is like a huge socket, but the four prongs are kind of 'inside' ...

As far as wheel bearing grease I've lately been using Mobil 1 synthetic figuring it was probably worth the money for better heat resistance and for water resistance.

It is pretty straightforward assuming everything was put together correctly to begin with (not always true) and assuming no significant amount of rust has formed. I once had to crack a lock nut off with a cold chisel because it was fused to the spindle with corrosion.

Tip: It's very important to get the lock nuts and retaining rings in correctly.

Another tip: inspect your lock nuts for signs of stress cracks! Earlier this year my outer lock nut on the driver side cracked, spun off, shredded my locking hub assembly, and basically made a giant mess of the inside.

Michael
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1986 Grand Wagoneer "Troubled Child"tc.wagoneer.orgFacebook • KØFSJ
Stock 360, TBI, 727 with TransGo, NP208, 4" Skyjacker, 33" BFG MT, WT Axles, Lock Right & ARB, OBA
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  #14  
Old 10-07-2007, 05:25 PM
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Stuka Stuka is offline
 
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You should check the rears too. There should be no end-play in back. Jack it up, and try to move the axle shaft in and out (easiest if you remove the tire and pull the drum off). If you can move the axle shaft in and out more than 1/16th of an inch or so, the rear bearings are going south too.
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  #15  
Old 10-07-2007, 07:20 PM
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shimniok shimniok is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepguzzi
I think Shimniok misspoke. You should need a four prong socket like the two on the left in the row of four on his picture.

The socket I was pointing out works for D44F the 1/2 ton 44 found under all the 1/2 ton FSJs ... That's what you'd need unless you're running something non-stock (or maybe for the J20's, I don't remember). I've done dozens of teardowns on various 1/2T FSJs and every single one of them use that socket I pointed out...

Michael
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1986 Grand Wagoneer "Troubled Child"tc.wagoneer.orgFacebook • KØFSJ
Stock 360, TBI, 727 with TransGo, NP208, 4" Skyjacker, 33" BFG MT, WT Axles, Lock Right & ARB, OBA
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  #16  
Old 10-07-2007, 10:04 PM
GWChris GWChris is offline
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Mike - I just used the 4-prong one on the left for the axle in my '88. Is it different in some of the GW's?
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  #17  
Old 10-07-2007, 11:39 PM
imiceman44 imiceman44 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stuka
You should check the rears too. There should be no end-play in back. Jack it up, and try to move the axle shaft in and out (easiest if you remove the tire and pull the drum off). If you can move the axle shaft in and out more than 1/16th of an inch or so, the rear bearings are going south too.

The bearings do not affect the axle shaft movement in and out, only up and down.
The only reason the axle shaft goes in or out is of the C clips are worn or gone, or the cross pin is worn out.
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  #18  
Old 10-08-2007, 04:31 AM
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Dirtball Dirtball is offline
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I thought I could just get the tool for a Chevy Dana 44... I'm so confused...
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Paul
1979 Cherokee N/T
360/TH400/Qtrac/D44s/rear Lock-right
6 inch Hell Creek all spring lift
34x10.50 Super Swamper LTBs
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g1...t/100_1394.jpg
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g1...t/100_1390.jpg
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g1...100_1387-2.jpg
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  #19  
Old 10-08-2007, 08:34 AM
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Dirtball Dirtball is offline
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Here's what I don't understand...

On Rock Auto... it lists:

1. Front wheel, inner, tapered cup- bearing cup
2. Front axle, inner, spicer 44-1F- bearing
3. Front axle seal kit
4. Front wheel, inner, tapered cone bearing
5. Front wheel, outer, cup and bearing

I understand that the "cup" is the race... but I'm confused mostly by 1 and 2... do I need the axle bearing, or only the wheel bearing? I know I need the seal kit and the outer and inner WHEEL bearings...
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Paul
1979 Cherokee N/T
360/TH400/Qtrac/D44s/rear Lock-right
6 inch Hell Creek all spring lift
34x10.50 Super Swamper LTBs
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g1...t/100_1394.jpg
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g1...t/100_1390.jpg
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g1...100_1387-2.jpg
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  #20  
Old 10-08-2007, 11:50 AM
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flatbackdragon flatbackdragon is offline
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tried to get the Rock Auto web pics of what you are looking at to post here but it wouldn't take for some reason.

You would want #1-the inner cup (race), #4-the inner wheel cone (bearing) and #5-the outer cup/bearing.

#2 & 3 are the NEEDLE BEARINGS that go on the inner part of the spindle which you are not far enough into to replace, do that if/when you replace the ball joints as you'd have the spindle off then.

You will still need the inner oil seal that goes on after the inner race/bearing is put in, that IS NOT offered/shown with the other bearings here.
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