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Old 07-01-2015, 05:52 PM
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Jenga77 Jenga77 is offline
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Join Date: Sep 16, 2014
Location: Ontario Canada
Posts: 32
Power Window and Door Lock Wiring Explanation

Hey everyone, I'm in the middle of rewiring my whole truck, and today was the day I had to do the section of the harness which covers the power windows and locks. I couldn't find any good writeups on the wiring for this section, and my circuit diagram didn't have it, so I had to figure it out myself. I decided to share what I found out in case anyone needs this in the future.

Please note that the wiring colours may not be factory correct / may not match yours. I'm fairly sure my harness was altered in the past, so there may have been some changes made.

This is for a 2 door (1977 J10), but I'm sure it could be extrapolated to the four door models.

Here's two images of the back of the switches for the driver and passenger side. The wire colours are labelled:

Just so there's no confusion, here's a list of the wiring colours:
R/W: red with white trace
R: Red
G: Green
W: White
B: Black
Y: Yellow
O: Orange
BL: Blue
P: Pink
Gr: Grey
Br: Brown

Now for the actual explanations:
There are two different source powers for the switches, R/W is for the door locks, and R is for the windows. On mine they were originally spliced together but I separated them so that the locks would work with the key off (constant +) but the windows would only work in On or ACC (Switched +).

The only ground is from the driver's side. The three black wires from the drivers side switches splice together and are fixed to ground. Make sure this connection is good, there's a lot of current running through it.

None of the switches or actuators ground through the body. They each have two wires coming from them so that the polarity can be reversed to make the opposite thing happen (lock/unlock, window up/down) (sorry, don't know how else to explain that!). The window actuators are hooked to the yellow and orange wires, and the lock actuators are hooked to blue, pink, and light blue wires (more on that later, sorry).

The window switches are easier, so I'll do them first. Here's a list of what connections are made when the switches are in the indicated positions:
Driver side, driver window switch:
UP: Y + R, O + B
Neutral: Y + B, O + B
Down: Y + B, O + R
Driver side, passenger window switch:
Up: G + R, W + B
Neutral: G + B, W + B
Down: G + B, W + R
Passenger side, passenger window switch:
Up: O + W, Y + R
Neutral: O + W, Y + G
Down: O + R, Y + G

So for example, when the driver side switch is pushed up, the yellow wire gets connected to the red one and gets +12 volts (Y+R), while the orange one is grounded through the black wire (O+B). Pushing it down does the opposite.

When the driver side switch for the passenger window is pushed down, the green wire gets grounded and the white wire gets 12 volts. The green and white wires on both sides of the vehicle are connected, and since the passenger side switch is in the neutral position, the orange wire gets 12 volts through the white wire, and the yellow one gets grounded through the green wire.

And that's how the windows work. The door locks have a bit of a twist to them (literally) since both door locks have to activate whenever either switch is pressed. I don't have the right photos to illustrate that, so I'll have to follow up later on.

I'm new to this, so if there's any problems don't be shy! Hopefully this helps someone out who's having trouble with it.
77 J10 - 360, T18, Dana 20, J20 Axles
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