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  #1  
Old 09-07-2019, 06:37 AM
'89_Wagon '89_Wagon is offline
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Join Date: Jan 01, 2019
Location: New Hampshire
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Rear Mount Gas Tank Write Up, Wagoneer

Just completed a rear gas tank swap in my 89 Grand Wagoneer. This post is meant to document the process I went through.

Why did I do this? At half a tank, my Jeep would start to sputter, hesitate, or die while taking turns and accelerating out of a stop. It did this when carbed and fuel injected. I threw a new pickup tube and fuel pump at it and nothing changed. Later, I was running two fuel pumps and it was very noisy. Rust is also a concern in my area so the saddle tank setup would eventually become a problem.

Why this setup? This setup does not require any notching of the frame and the fuel level gauge seems to work well enough. The fuel pump design solves any fuel starvation issues when turning or steering. The nylon lines won’t rust or corrode and parts themselves are cheap. There’s also plenty of ground clearance and it moves the fuel tank to the spare tire area.

Why not this setup? The gas tank is smaller than stock…. 19 vs 20. For me, it felt like I doubled the size since I had to fill up at half a tank before. Pressing fittings onto nylon can be a pain without the proper tools. I gave it shot with simple tools and decided it wasn’t worth the frustration so I dropped a lot of money on the tool (I used KD tools kit). I’m happy I did since it saved me a ton of time. Obviously… no spare tire.

Does it work? Short answer, yes. I have no problems with fuel starvation, cold starts, and as mentioned before the fuel gauge is good enough. It’s also quiet. It can be heard priming when the ignition is turned on, but it’s muted. I can’t here it all when the engine is running.

Last edited by '89_Wagon : 09-07-2019 at 06:44 AM.
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  #2  
Old 09-07-2019, 06:45 AM
'89_Wagon '89_Wagon is offline
232 I6
 
Join Date: Jan 01, 2019
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 145
Parts List

-97 S10 two-door Blazer gas tank
-96 S10 Blazer fuel pump. This fuel lever sender reads accurate enough.
-Fuel lines. I used 5/16 and 3/8 nylon fuel lines and quick disconnect fittings. I paid a lot for the installation tool but the peace of mind was worth it as well as the ease of installation. I didn't want to fight with other methods of pressing nylon fittings to the hose.
-Fuel filter. I used one with 3/8 quick disconnect ends. The one I purchased was for a Buick Roadmaster.
-Quick connect fuel fittings. Keeping with the theme I purchased straight and elbow quick disconnect fittings. Fuel supply uses 3/8 and return uses 5/16.
-At minimum, four 3/8 fittings are needed. 1 @Fuel pump, 2 @ fuel
filter and 1 @ TBI.
-At a minimum, three 5/16 fittings are needed. 1 @ TBI, 1 for fuel
return at pump and 1 for the fuel tank vent port.
-Fuel line mounting clamps.
-GM 6AN fittings to replace stock pods. Found these on Ebay from a vendor called dstrumpet. Saves much needed space at the TBI.
-6AN to QD fitting. These mount to the GM TB adapter fittings above.
-Tank straps
-Hockey pucks. Cheap spacers.
-Rubber sheet, 1/8 thick an 3 inches wide. 10 feet was $16 on Amazon
-Double sided tape.
-Copper reducer 2” to 1”. Bough off Amazon.
-1 inch fill hose. 1 foot length
-2 inch fill hose. 1 foot length
-Over flow hose 5/8, 1 foot length
-Over flow hose 3/4, 1 foot length
-5/8 to 3/4 fuel line adapter for overflow hose

TBI fittings are optional. Barbed fitting can be pressed into the nylon hose and rubber lines can be ran from there.

Edit 5.14.21: Corrected nylon fuel line size to 3/8.

Last edited by '89_Wagon : 05-14-2022 at 11:45 AM.
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  #3  
Old 09-07-2019, 06:58 AM
'89_Wagon '89_Wagon is offline
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Join Date: Jan 01, 2019
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 145
More Pics to follow

[IMG]D [/IMG]

[IMG]D [/IMG]

[IMG]D [/IMG]

Last edited by '89_Wagon : 09-07-2019 at 07:04 AM.
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  #4  
Old 09-07-2019, 08:44 AM
SJTD SJTD is offline
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Join Date: Apr 26, 2012
Location: Lompoc and Sunland, CA
Posts: 1,814
Looking forward to more pics with hope it doesn't stick down as far a most of these installations.
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'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.
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  #5  
Old 09-15-2019, 01:31 PM
'89_Wagon '89_Wagon is offline
232 I6
 
Join Date: Jan 01, 2019
Location: New Hampshire
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Here are some more pics.

[IMG]Gas tank by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/93784013@N04/][/IMG]
[IMG]Gas tank by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/93784013@N04/][/IMG]

Rear mount, looking up. The rear strap is bolted to the upper lip of the rear cross frame.

[IMG]Gas tank by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/93784013@N04/][/IMG]

Last edited by '89_Wagon : 09-15-2019 at 01:41 PM.
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  #6  
Old 05-12-2022, 08:05 AM
scottb scottb is offline
230 Tornado
 
Join Date: Apr 15, 2022
Location: SC
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When you say 5/8, do you mean 3/8? 5/8 seems large for fuel line. Thanks!
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  #7  
Old 05-14-2022, 11:41 AM
'89_Wagon '89_Wagon is offline
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Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 145
Yep, good catch. Should be 3/8. I'll fix that.
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  #8  
Old 05-14-2022, 11:47 AM
'89_Wagon '89_Wagon is offline
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Location: New Hampshire
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Been running this setup for a while now. No issues so far. Although, I haven't found a home for the tank vent tube yet....
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  #9  
Old 05-24-2022, 06:39 AM
Warlordsix Warlordsix is offline
230 Tornado
 
Join Date: Dec 23, 2021
Location: SE USA
Posts: 21
Looks good. I'm planning to use a polyethylene 20-gallon Wrangler YJ tank. Should be a straightforward swap, but I'm still running a carb, so I'll need to remove the electric pump from the tank and figure out a replacement, straight pickup tube.

Ernie
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  #10  
Old 05-24-2022, 11:30 AM
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devildog80 devildog80 is offline
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Location: Apache Junction AZ
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You can use the in tank pump, just check your carb pressure needs, as you might need to only put a pressure regulator in line and a bypass back to the tank.
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'81 CJ5 Base, 258 I6, MC2100, T176 4 spd, 300 TC, D30 Front NT, 3.31, 2-Piece AMC 20 rear NT, 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift

'84 Grand Wagoneer, 401 V8 (.030 over), MC2150 HA Comp, 727 auto, Selec-trac NP229, AMC 20 REAR - D44 FRONT - WT 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift

Rather be driving, than waiting to be modified
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Old 05-24-2022, 12:55 PM
Warlordsix Warlordsix is offline
230 Tornado
 
Join Date: Dec 23, 2021
Location: SE USA
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Roger. Thanks. That would require an adjustable fuel pressure regulator that could take it down from somewhere near 50psi to something under 8psi (I'm running a Holley 1450).

Ernie
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Old 05-24-2022, 01:04 PM
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devildog80 devildog80 is offline
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Correct

Also, if you decide not to use the in tank pump, can you leave it all in the tank and just disconnect the power feed, and still be able to pull fuel through it with a lower pressure pump?
Would keep all your tank internals in place, and gauge should still read. You would only disconnect the pump power lead, which you would rewire to your new on frame electric pump.

Just a thought, as we can do that when switching from mechanical to electric pumps.
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'81 CJ5 Base, 258 I6, MC2100, T176 4 spd, 300 TC, D30 Front NT, 3.31, 2-Piece AMC 20 rear NT, 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift

'84 Grand Wagoneer, 401 V8 (.030 over), MC2150 HA Comp, 727 auto, Selec-trac NP229, AMC 20 REAR - D44 FRONT - WT 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift

Rather be driving, than waiting to be modified
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Old 05-24-2022, 02:06 PM
Warlordsix Warlordsix is offline
230 Tornado
 
Join Date: Dec 23, 2021
Location: SE USA
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Possible, I suppose, but I suspect I can just remover the in-tank pump and leave the fuel sender in place. I'm planning to use the stock, mechanical pump.

Ernie
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  #14  
Old 05-24-2022, 02:32 PM
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devildog80 devildog80 is offline
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Then you would need to replace the in tank pump with a pick up tube, as the sender is probably separate from the pump in that tank?
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'81 CJ5 Base, 258 I6, MC2100, T176 4 spd, 300 TC, D30 Front NT, 3.31, 2-Piece AMC 20 rear NT, 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift

'84 Grand Wagoneer, 401 V8 (.030 over), MC2150 HA Comp, 727 auto, Selec-trac NP229, AMC 20 REAR - D44 FRONT - WT 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift

Rather be driving, than waiting to be modified
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  #15  
Old 05-24-2022, 04:49 PM
Warlordsix Warlordsix is offline
230 Tornado
 
Join Date: Dec 23, 2021
Location: SE USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by devildog80
Then you would need to replace the in tank pump with a pick up tube, as the sender is probably separate from the pump in that tank?

Right. In my experience with other fuel injected tanks, the pump mounts to the same bracket that the sender is mounted to. My guess is the YJ tank is no different. We'll see.

Ernie
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  #16  
Old 05-24-2022, 05:25 PM
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devildog80 devildog80 is offline
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Ok
Hope whatever I was babbling about helps
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'81 CJ5 Base, 258 I6, MC2100, T176 4 spd, 300 TC, D30 Front NT, 3.31, 2-Piece AMC 20 rear NT, 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift

'84 Grand Wagoneer, 401 V8 (.030 over), MC2150 HA Comp, 727 auto, Selec-trac NP229, AMC 20 REAR - D44 FRONT - WT 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift

Rather be driving, than waiting to be modified
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  #17  
Old 05-29-2022, 07:48 AM
'89_Wagon '89_Wagon is offline
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Curious, why are you aiming to run a mechanical pump over an electric one? The electric one solves some issues with the mechanical type (vapor lock, leaking gas into the oil sump ect). Just to keep things simple?
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  #18  
Old 05-29-2022, 09:25 AM
Warlordsix Warlordsix is offline
230 Tornado
 
Join Date: Dec 23, 2021
Location: SE USA
Posts: 21
Most of the electric pumps (for various vehicles) I've purchased at parts stores in the last several years have given up the ghost in under two years. Sure, they typically come with lifetime warranties, but the fun of repeatedly draining and dropping tanks to replace yet another electric, in-tank pump wears off quickly. Much easier to swap out a mechanical pump.

Ernie
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