International Full Size Jeep Association
Home Forums Reader's Rigs Tech Library Trail Stories FSJ-List
International Full Size Jeep Association  

Go Back   International Full Size Jeep Association > Tire Kickin' > General FSJ Tech

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1  
Old 08-21-2008, 03:08 AM
cajunKen's Avatar
cajunKen cajunKen is offline
Master Mechanic
 
Join Date: Feb 19, 2007
Location: Eaton, CO
Posts: 849
Looks like a bad axle bearing......

Hey all, finally got around to yanking my leaking axle shaft tonight.

I hope this isn't too asinine a thread, but please bear with me as I've never done this before.

BTW, thanks for the advice on my last thread about axle pullers.....I checked out the Harbor Freight slide hammer kit & it REALLY looked like a POS. I ended up going to Checkers and renting a slide hammer/axle puller kit. They charge you for the kit (90 bucks in this case) but you get it back in full as long as you return it within two days; 6 bucks a day after that. They've also got a bunch of different kits available.

Anyways, after yanking the axle shaft out tonight, I found that the bearing looks pretty bad....the race is pitted & galled.

Question #1 is: what's the best way to get that race out of the axle?

Question #2 is: what's the best way to get the new race into the axle? Heat the housing/chill the race? Or is the outer race supposed to be attached to the bearing?

I found a write up about this whole deal at http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/d44/d44.htm

Looks like when he was pressing the collar onto the axle shaft the bearing had the outer race on it. I figured the outer race would have to be installed into the axle housing on it's own, but hey, I'm asking cause I haven't got a clue.

Sorry if these are really stupid questions, but like I said, I'm clueless.

Any advice would be GREATLY appreciated.
__________________
Ken

'87 GW-360, 727/229, TFI, Holley Street Dominator manifold & Edelbrock 1406. Stock lift & tires.

Beef-It's what's for dinner....cause there ain't no d@mn shrimp in Colorado!

Last edited by cajunKen : 11-22-2008 at 01:02 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 08-21-2008, 03:44 AM
HOOT's Avatar
HOOT HOOT is offline
Moderator
 
Join Date: Mar 28, 2003
Location: Taylor Mill,KY 41015
Posts: 5,592
The race should be attached to the bearing.. They make tools to pull that type of problem as well. I would think tyou can get it worked out unless it is really ground and rusted in place. It doesn't look like that is the case here..
Looks like you are well on your way to a fun time.. I actually found it somewhat satifying after my axle replace , new bearings,brakes ,wheel studs and everything else in that wheel region.. Sometimes I get carried away too but it's all good....

Don't worry about how your question sound.. I guarantee you there will be quite a few others that have never been in this situation .....YET..

Enjoy.. I like the pic as you go to . Helps people get a grasp on what's in there..
__________________
Tom Gibson
1980 J20 Utility bed truck. Factory cab and chassis truck. Many new mods for it but it will look all stock.
1985 J10 nothing special just a nice clean stock truck.
1977 Honcho "Blue" 401/400/quad. Under going major upgrades.."This is Not Your Fathers Honcho", it may not even be a Honcho anymore when done.
2017 Challenger. Very jealous of the Jeeps.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 08-21-2008, 03:53 AM
HOOT's Avatar
HOOT HOOT is offline
Moderator
 
Join Date: Mar 28, 2003
Location: Taylor Mill,KY 41015
Posts: 5,592
If you are doing the work yourself be careful when removing the old bearing from the axle shaft. The manual says to drill into the collar then split it off. The PO on my Jeep did just this then chiseled off the bearing also. The axle shaft itself was nicked and gouged badly. Needless to say the seals never lasted and I ended up just buying a brand new set of axles.
It's a do it yourself type job. Just take your time and do it right. As stated in my above post I replaced everything in that region when I was in there. I got better things to do than tear into a wheel a second time to replace brakes or wheel cylinders that should of been done last time.. Know what I mean..
__________________
Tom Gibson
1980 J20 Utility bed truck. Factory cab and chassis truck. Many new mods for it but it will look all stock.
1985 J10 nothing special just a nice clean stock truck.
1977 Honcho "Blue" 401/400/quad. Under going major upgrades.."This is Not Your Fathers Honcho", it may not even be a Honcho anymore when done.
2017 Challenger. Very jealous of the Jeeps.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 08-21-2008, 07:20 AM
Headhoncho's Avatar
Headhoncho Headhoncho is offline
FSJ Maniac
 
Join Date: Oct 11, 2006
Location: Somewhere in the swamps of Jersey
Posts: 3,632
Quote:
Originally Posted by cajunKen

Question #1 is: what's the best way to get that race out of the axle?

Question #2 is: what's the best way to get the new race into the axle? Heat the housing/chill the race? Or is the outer race supposed to be attached to the bearing?

Looks like when he was pressing the collar onto the axle shaft the bearing had the outer race on it. I figured the outer race would have to be installed into the axle housing on it's own, but hey, I'm asking cause I haven't got a clue.

1&2. You can use the slide hammer if you can get it to grab the inside lip of the race in the axle tube. I used a washer with nuts on either side on a length of all thread to get mine out. Wipe clean the tube after you get it out. To install just tap it in till it bottoms out. Be careful not to scratch the face of the race.

If you have tapered bearings (like whats in your picture) then there will be a separate race and bearing. If you have non-tapered sealed roller bearings then the bearing and race are one unit. I did a ford 9" and a model 20 a while back and can't remember which one got which.


JR
__________________
[quote] "How does someone from Iran have a BJ's Offroad sticker but I can't seem to get one sent to New Jersey???!!!"


1980 Honcho Sportside w/37's, 351c, 14" lift, D44high pinion w/Aussie, crossover steering, 14b w/detroit, np435, 205, 5.13's, 4whl discs, hb brakes, OBAir, rusted out cab,
1966 mustang fastback
'07 Dodge Charger 3.5
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 08-21-2008, 08:40 AM
chr1s's Avatar
chr1s chr1s is offline
Beach Bum - moderator
 
Join Date: Jun 17, 2003
Posts: 3,229
nice tech yall.
im watching this 'cause I need to check/do mine soon

Good luck and keep the updates and pics coming
__________________
87 Grand Wagoneer -(UNDER CONSTRUCTION)- "TROLL SMASHER II"
88 Grand Wagoneer- GONE
"many miles away, there's a shadow on the door, of a cottage on the shore, of a dark Scottish lake......many miles away..."
________________________________________
*** Current Jeep Status ***
JEEP IS : . . .
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 08-21-2008, 09:52 AM
mathman's Avatar
mathman mathman is offline
350 Buick
 
Join Date: Sep 12, 2007
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 785
Quote:
Originally Posted by Headhoncho
1&2. You can use the slide hammer if you can get it to grab the inside lip of the race in the axle tube. I used a washer with nuts on either side on a length of all thread to get mine out. Wipe clean the tube after you get it out. To install just tap it in till it bottoms out. Be careful not to scratch the face of the race.

If you have tapered bearings (like whats in your picture) then there will be a separate race and bearing. If you have non-tapered sealed roller bearings then the bearing and race are one unit. I did a ford 9" and a model 20 a while back and can't remember which one got which.

x2. My '78 J-10 had the tapered bearing on it and getting the races out of the axle were a bear. The slide puller I had rented had a puller tip with it that was designed to catch the lip as described above but in my case I think the PO had spun the bearings as when I finally got it all apart I found peaning on the surface in the axle housing along with what looked like some sort of loctite to keep it in place. The replacement bearings that I bought were the one piece sealed design. Be careful splitting the retainer - the PO had and gouged the axles shafts badly. Still had a leak when I reassembled everything but am waiting to redo it until I can get new shafts, which I'm having trouble finding.
__________________
David
'78 J-10; '78 J-20 8400GVW
'79 Cherokee
'50 Willys (not Willy's) 4WD Pickup
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 08-21-2008, 10:10 AM
Chevelleguy's Avatar
Chevelleguy Chevelleguy is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 20, 2003
Location: Hughes Springs, TX
Posts: 5,565
You can get the bearings both ways, tapered or one piece. I had one of each in my original axle.
__________________
David "If all else fails, read the instructions."
83 Wag Lt,BJ's 6"lift,360/727/Pinned229,D44/trac-lok,AMC20/lock-right,35/12.50 Baja MTZ,Pro-Jection EFI.
10$ NP229 fix http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=2520
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 08-21-2008, 05:34 PM
cajunKen's Avatar
cajunKen cajunKen is offline
Master Mechanic
 
Join Date: Feb 19, 2007
Location: Eaton, CO
Posts: 849
Quote:
Originally Posted by HOOT
As stated in my above post I replaced everything in that region when I was in there. I got better things to do than tear into a wheel a second time to replace brakes or wheel cylinders that should of been done last time.. Know what I mean..

Yup, know EXACTLY what you mean....fact is, I had just done a brake job on the rear about 3 months ago. Including the wheel cylinders. After I get this axle back together, at least I'll only be replacing the shoes.

I headed over to Checkers in Windsor and traded the axle pulling kit for a slide hammer kit with 2 & 3 jaw pullers on it. I'm going to try and yank that race out tonight & I'll try and post some more pics as I go.
__________________
Ken

'87 GW-360, 727/229, TFI, Holley Street Dominator manifold & Edelbrock 1406. Stock lift & tires.

Beef-It's what's for dinner....cause there ain't no d@mn shrimp in Colorado!
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 08-21-2008, 05:45 PM
cajunKen's Avatar
cajunKen cajunKen is offline
Master Mechanic
 
Join Date: Feb 19, 2007
Location: Eaton, CO
Posts: 849
Oh, and I checked the link I had in my first post....sorry I screwed it up...should have been http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/d44/d44-1.htm

seems like a pretty good site, but again, seeing what looks like the bearing WITH race still around it made me wonder....now that I looked at it again it looks like he's installing a straight bearing to replace the tapered one.

I guess they're interchangable?
__________________
Ken

'87 GW-360, 727/229, TFI, Holley Street Dominator manifold & Edelbrock 1406. Stock lift & tires.

Beef-It's what's for dinner....cause there ain't no d@mn shrimp in Colorado!
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 08-21-2008, 05:56 PM
CustomWag's Avatar
CustomWag CustomWag is offline
Bleedin' Gasoline
 
Join Date: Oct 10, 2005
Location: southern oregon
Posts: 2,252
Quote:
Originally Posted by cajunKen
Oh, and I checked the link I had in my first post....sorry I screwed it up...should have been http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/d44/d44-1.htm

seems like a pretty good site, but again, seeing what looks like the bearing WITH race still around it made me wonder....now that I looked at it again it looks like he's installing a straight bearing to replace the tapered one.

I guess they're interchangable?

Don't know from experience by I've read here that the tapered bearings (timken set 10) are better in that their design makes it less likely that you will lose an axle shaft if the bearing fails while driving down the road.
__________________
Rick
84 Custom GW
360/727/208/d44f/AMC20r/3:31
Manual windows/locks/seats
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 08-22-2008, 01:31 AM
cajunKen's Avatar
cajunKen cajunKen is offline
Master Mechanic
 
Join Date: Feb 19, 2007
Location: Eaton, CO
Posts: 849
Well, this night's going well......

I just spent 45 minutes wailing on that slide hammer, tried both the three claw and the two claw variations and I don't think I moved the bearing race at all.

I'm about ready to try and cut into the race with my trusty dremel tool and cutting discs...I don't know if it'll even make a dent in it, but it's worth a try.

Either that or maybe the Holy Hand Grenade from Brother Maynard......

On top of that, my camera's decided to take the night off, so no pics until I can get it back to work.

This things drivin' me nuts!
__________________
Ken

'87 GW-360, 727/229, TFI, Holley Street Dominator manifold & Edelbrock 1406. Stock lift & tires.

Beef-It's what's for dinner....cause there ain't no d@mn shrimp in Colorado!
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 08-22-2008, 02:38 AM
HOOT's Avatar
HOOT HOOT is offline
Moderator
 
Join Date: Mar 28, 2003
Location: Taylor Mill,KY 41015
Posts: 5,592
Try to not cut into the axle housing. Cut it close then try to bend it out.
Maybe try to heat it if you have a map torch there.

Be patient...
__________________
Tom Gibson
1980 J20 Utility bed truck. Factory cab and chassis truck. Many new mods for it but it will look all stock.
1985 J10 nothing special just a nice clean stock truck.
1977 Honcho "Blue" 401/400/quad. Under going major upgrades.."This is Not Your Fathers Honcho", it may not even be a Honcho anymore when done.
2017 Challenger. Very jealous of the Jeeps.
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 08-22-2008, 04:21 AM
pineymike's Avatar
pineymike pineymike is offline
327 Rambler
 
Join Date: Feb 22, 2008
Location: south jersey
Posts: 507
You should check the other side bearing it probly needs replacement any way then,along rod{grounding rod from hwd store} can be slid through from one side to the other to knock out the races,a second set of hands helps this operation with the helper guiding the rod to the rite spot on the race{with something other than his fingers!} good luck!
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 08-22-2008, 07:26 AM
Chevelleguy's Avatar
Chevelleguy Chevelleguy is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 20, 2003
Location: Hughes Springs, TX
Posts: 5,565
In order to knock it out from the other side, you have to remove the carrier.
__________________
David "If all else fails, read the instructions."
83 Wag Lt,BJ's 6"lift,360/727/Pinned229,D44/trac-lok,AMC20/lock-right,35/12.50 Baja MTZ,Pro-Jection EFI.
10$ NP229 fix http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=2520
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 08-22-2008, 09:23 PM
cajunKen's Avatar
cajunKen cajunKen is offline
Master Mechanic
 
Join Date: Feb 19, 2007
Location: Eaton, CO
Posts: 849
Gotta love how things work out sometimes......

Turns out my neighbor up the street rebuilds Mopar rears...he rode by on his bicycle, saw me struggling (and probably heard me cursing) and asked if I needed a hand. After grinding with the dremel, wackin' with the chisel, and banging the living daylights outta the slide hammer we finally got that sucker popped out.

Not only that, he offered to order up the parts I need from his supplier. Since he orders in bulk, he says figure on about half of what i'd pay at NAPA.

Plus he's gonna let me use his press to install the retainer collar

Pretty decent all around....He and his wife are Colorado natives. Guess there is such a thing as "Yankee Hospitality". I'll never say anything bad about Northerners again.

If I can get my camera working again I'll try and post some more pics as this progresses.
__________________
Ken

'87 GW-360, 727/229, TFI, Holley Street Dominator manifold & Edelbrock 1406. Stock lift & tires.

Beef-It's what's for dinner....cause there ain't no d@mn shrimp in Colorado!
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:13 AM.


Powered by vBulletin Version 3.5.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
corner corner