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Old 03-14-2013, 12:46 PM
SJTD SJTD is offline
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Join Date: Apr 26, 2012
Location: Lompoc and Sunland, CA
Posts: 1,649
Windshield Removal

I had to remove the windshield on my project to fix the factory A pillar to roof joint. I’ve seen instructions including the factory manual but no pichers so I thought I’d chronicle it.

Mine was already cracked and I plan to replace the gasket but I removed it without cutting the old gasket as a learning experience for when I install the new one.

It would’ve been nice to have cleaned it before I started but I didn’t want water all over the place including the interior that’s been blasted. I removed the metal trim a while ago. This is removed by pushing it inward a little at a time, working down the length of the piece. You can see the dirt that accumulated under it.


I bent this tool from some 3/32” welding rod:





Worked all the way around pulling up the locking strip:




The lock strip unseated:





Lift the lock strip and note the inside edge. Note also the bead the metal trim hooks on.





Roll back the lock strip and tuck the trim bead under it. This holds the gasket away from the windshield. I don’t remember seeing this suggested elsewhere.




Continue all the way around the perimeter. Get as close to the corners as possible. Note how the gasket is held away from the glass.





Work around the edge of the glass to cut the adhesive. I’d have used something other than a screwdriver if the glass was good. Also go around the inside of the glass with a razor. Be careful not to go too deep and cut the rubber if you’re reusing the gasket.





The glass should be loose and a push on the inside at the bottom corners and center should release it. If it isn’t loose find where it’s sticking and cut the glue. One or more helpers would be good at this point.




You can see why you install the top first and remove the bottom first. There is a lot more of the gasket that doesn’t fold out of the way at the upper corners than the bottom.

After doing this I figger I can install the new glass without a problem.

I’m also more sure I don’t want the metal trim but I don’t want the extra groove that holds the trim either. Not sure what I’ll do.
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'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.

Last edited by SJTD : 03-14-2013 at 12:48 PM.
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Old 03-14-2013, 12:51 PM
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goldhammer goldhammer is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 08, 2004
Location: Willamette Valley, OR
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Used to be able to get the rubber for a model without the chrome trim.

Use a little soapy water in a spray bottle when you go to reinstall it, or a spray can of glass cleaner. Helps make things slide in easier.

Cotter pin hook works for unhooking it as well if you have one.
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ASE Master Collision Tech
"Beast" - 81 "S" W/T, 85-360, T-18, Lock-rite,wag alloys, 31-10.50 Pro Comp MT's, Warn 8274 in a fabbed bumper/deer strainer(tested and approved)

88 XJ, 3" lift, 31-10.50's, custom bumpers and winch/tow bar mounts, Warn 9500HS, custom sliders/steps, camo paint, & headliner

Member: FSJ Prissy Restoration Assoc.
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Old 03-14-2013, 01:25 PM
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JP JP is offline
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Join Date: Dec 12, 2012
Location: Lakeland , Florida
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THANK YOU!!!!

I have to do this same project soon, and was having a horrible time finding info on it. if you can would you photo doc the repairs to the A pillar. Mine are rusted and I'm going to have my work cut out for me so any info will be golden...


Thanks again!

JP
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THIS RESTORATION WILL BE THE MOST DIFFICULT AND EXPENSIVE THING I HAVE EVER ATTEMPTED TO ACCOMPLISH HONEY, I SWEAR!!!

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83 Cherokee
resto thread:
http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=162358
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Old 03-14-2013, 01:32 PM
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goldhammer goldhammer is offline
 
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Location: Willamette Valley, OR
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On your repairs.....wire wheel the rust areas and find good metal, cut back to it and form and weld in patches. Finish the repaired area, prime and repaint, and good to go.
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Art
ASE Master Collision Tech
"Beast" - 81 "S" W/T, 85-360, T-18, Lock-rite,wag alloys, 31-10.50 Pro Comp MT's, Warn 8274 in a fabbed bumper/deer strainer(tested and approved)

88 XJ, 3" lift, 31-10.50's, custom bumpers and winch/tow bar mounts, Warn 9500HS, custom sliders/steps, camo paint, & headliner

Member: FSJ Prissy Restoration Assoc.
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Old 03-14-2013, 03:59 PM
SJTD SJTD is offline
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Join Date: Apr 26, 2012
Location: Lompoc and Sunland, CA
Posts: 1,649
I'll post pichers of what I'm doing but it sounds like it isn't what you're looking for. Repairs maybe wasn't a good term for what I'm doing.

The A pillar/roof joint is poorly done. Several pieces meet and were welded leaving gaps that were partially brazed then filled with sealant. I'm welding pieces where I can then brazing the holes so no sealant will be needed.

There are several threads that show extensive rust repair by forming sheet metal patches. Gotta do some searching in several of the forums here.
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'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.
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Old 03-14-2013, 04:12 PM
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goldhammer goldhammer is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 08, 2004
Location: Willamette Valley, OR
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FSJ tin has a habit of warping worse that old SAAB tin when you put heat to it like welding and brazing. You don't want to know how I know that, but it has to do with splicing front doors to rear door to get body lines to mat up on a 6 pack build a few years back.

Up in the corner won't be as bad, but be easy.
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Art
ASE Master Collision Tech
"Beast" - 81 "S" W/T, 85-360, T-18, Lock-rite,wag alloys, 31-10.50 Pro Comp MT's, Warn 8274 in a fabbed bumper/deer strainer(tested and approved)

88 XJ, 3" lift, 31-10.50's, custom bumpers and winch/tow bar mounts, Warn 9500HS, custom sliders/steps, camo paint, & headliner

Member: FSJ Prissy Restoration Assoc.
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