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  #1  
Old 05-26-2021, 04:59 PM
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rang-a-stang rang-a-stang is offline
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Are Warn hubs rebuildable/serviceable?

I have a set of Warn premium front locking hubs on my Dana 44 (part # 20990). They are in good shape, have low miles, but are pretty old. There is nothing wrong with them per-se but while I have my front end apart should I take the hubs apart and clean/service them or do you just spray them out with brake cleaner when you re-pack your bearings? The instructions just say "Service at the same interval as wheel bearings. Clean and lightly grease internal working surfaces."

I searched Warn's website and I do not see anything there. I sent them an email but no answer yet.
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Last edited by rang-a-stang : 05-26-2021 at 05:19 PM.
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Old 05-27-2021, 08:46 AM
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Yes, usually the kit has a new seal and screws. Your local parts house should be able to get the kit
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Old 05-27-2021, 11:01 AM
SJTD SJTD is offline
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Look for wear between the part attached to the axle and the piece fixed to the hub. I had one with so much wear on my Ford that I had to keep the hub locked until I got around to replacing it.

I though you had Q-Trac?
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Old 05-27-2021, 01:53 PM
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rang-a-stang rang-a-stang is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goldhammer
Yes, usually the kit has a new seal and screws. Your local parts house should be able to get the kit
I saw those but they are just the big O-Ring and the screws. I wanted to really dig into the hub itself. More below.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SJTD
Look for wear between the part attached to the axle and the piece fixed to the hub. I had one with so much wear on my Ford that I had to keep the hub locked until I got around to replacing it.

I thought you had Q-Trac?
Copy. I was able to get mine apart, cleaned, inspected, re-lubed, and re-assembled. Took tons of pictures and will post them tonight.

I "do". I have a part time converted QT case and when I bought my truck it had completely destroyed Mile Marker hubs. I bought a set of older, but new Warn hubs and have been using them. They are/were pretty hard to lock/unlock. I'll post up how I did it this evening or tomorrow when I get a better signal and can transfer pictures from my phone to my computer.
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Old 05-27-2021, 10:39 PM
SJTD SJTD is offline
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Oh, part time. That's very different. Never mind.
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Old 05-28-2021, 07:52 AM
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Not many service parts available, as I recall. Contact Warn and ask. You sent email to the address for customer service / tech support? They have a phone number on that same page - worth a try.

I would just clean them in a mild solvent (ie paint thinner), coat all the internal parts with a light grease and put them together. I would not use brake cleaner, which could attack any plastic parts.
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Old 05-28-2021, 09:59 AM
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rang-a-stang rang-a-stang is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tgreese
Not many service parts available, as I recall. Contact Warn and ask. You sent email to the address for customer service / tech support? They have a phone number on that same page - worth a try.

I would just clean them in a mild solvent (ie paint thinner), coat all the internal parts with a light grease and put them together. I would not use brake cleaner, which could attack any plastic parts.
Yes, sir, email. Funny you mention that!
******************************************
I knew I would have some time at work yesterday so I grabbed some tools, supplies, and my hubs and did it at my desk, during lunch. Took me about 30 minutes per hub, on average. This worked on my hubs which are Warn 20990 which are the Warn Premium Manual Locking hubs for Dana 44. I have never done this and I am not sure how different it is from stock hubs or other brand hubs. The only supplies I needed were the lube and cleaner. Remember, the Warn paperwork says "grease" but I used something else. The only tools/supplies I used were a screwdriver, a spray bottle, a TON of paper towels, Alcohol, and optional paint/paintbrushes. You should also buy a Warn 20825 rebuild kit. It has a new seal, some screws and an install clip.

So these hubs come off your truck in 2 big chunks: The chrome outer selector and the inner locker (my words). I cleaned my selectors first.

I wiped the whole thing down with alcohol, then rotated it to the "Lock" position. This pushes the clutch all the way to the end of the threaded center shaft on the back:

Here you can see the clutch is pushed all the way

The wave spring is held on by 2 bent tangs and 2 straight tangs. I noted the clocking position of the spring, and was able to gently pull it out from under one of the bent tangs and rotate the rest of the spring out.


Next up, note the clocking of the star wheel. If I was smart, I would have used a paint pen to note where the star wheel laid in relation to the indexing lug on the housing but I did not. So if you are doing this, mark the star tines on either side of the indexing lug. Then gently pry up the tine of the star wheel to rotate the star wheel off the hub selector threaded center shaft.
I think it was reverse threaded.

This is as far as I went it on the selector. There is a lock ring inside that could be removed but mine was clean and rotated smoothly so I left it. I cleaned the whole body out with alcohol.

Re-Assembly:
I very lightly lubed the threaded middle hub shaft with a tiny bit of Lucas engine assembly lube. Why that? Cuz it's light, sticky, lube'ey, and I had it handy.
Put the star wheel back on so it is locked with the indexing lug between the two tines you marked up above. Once it is on, rotate the hub selector to "Free". This should pull the star wheel all the way to the bottom (you should have paint pen or maker marks on the 2 tines next to the indexing lug, I didn't think of it until it was already too late), and you should feel it click into place.

If it does not click into place, you need to adjust the star wheel position by rotating the selector to "Lock" and moving it a tine or two.
Once you get the star wheel in the correct spot, gently re-install the wave spring in the same position it was when you took it apart.
OPTIONAL:
I decided to repaint mine. I have some international orange paint left over from when I painted my gauges so I used it to paint the "Free" and "Lock". I covered the area with paint, then wiped off the excess.

Then I repeated those steps with the black writing.


Then for the Locker.
Flip it over this way. I found it much easier to re-assemble from this side. There is coiled lock spring here. I used a small screwdriver (us Navy types callem tweakers) to get it started then, gently rotated it out. Hold and lightly push down on to the housing because it will want to jump up when you remove the lock spring.

When the lock spring is off, lift the body off the center hub and spring. It should look like this:

Now you can lift the main spring off, then the washer, then the outer sprocket. Pay attention to the orientation of the outer sprocket, so you can re-assemble it the correct way. Also, on the main body, where the lock spring used to be, there is a bronze looking bearing in there; lift it out, too.

Lay everything out, clean it all off, inspect for wear, cracks, discoloration, etc.

Re-assembly:
Inner hub gets lightly lubed where the outer sprocket rides on it. Again, I used a thin film of engine assembly lube. Slide the outer sprocket over the inner hub makeing sure you put it on the correct way. Don't forget to lay the washer down before the main spring. Both side of the washer get lightly lubed.

Then the main spring goes on, then the body over the main spring. Next comes the hardest part of this whole job (and it's not really hard); I found it best to prop the whole assembly up on a tool (in my case it was a small spray bottle) to get the center hub to protrude all the way out of the main body. Push down on the main body so you can see the groove on the center hub, ensure the bronze bearing is fully seated, and install the lock spring. Good luck. My first hub took almost 15 minutes of cursing under my breathe before it went in. Second hub when right on like I knew what I was doing.

Next up (almost done), assemble the selector to the locker and check it's operation. It should rotate and click into place for both "Free" and "Lock". The selector should should rotate smoothly. When you select "Free", stuff your finger in the back (into the splined inner hub hole), and the inner hub should rotate freely. Rotate the selector to "Lock" and try to spin the inner hub again: it should NOT rotate anymore.


Last, install on your truck using a new O-ring and screws from the Warn hub rebuild kit, then test again. Verify it spins freely in "Free" and then locks (spins the axle stubs) when you select "Lock".

ENJOY!
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  #8  
Old 05-28-2021, 10:58 AM
oregonphil oregonphil is offline
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Nice write up with photos and info, good job sailor.
These are on my '72 Commando, I keep meaning to go thru them also.
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Last edited by oregonphil : 05-28-2021 at 03:42 PM.
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