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Old 04-23-2021, 08:06 AM
MurderJeep MurderJeep is offline
230 Tornado
 
Join Date: Aug 04, 2014
Location: United States
Posts: 24
Manual Clutch Linkage

Hi all, I have a 73 J4000 with a 401 and T18 4 speed. I have never been happy with the clutch linkage, it definitely needs to be more rigid. Does anyone know of any heavy duty aftermarket linkage somebody makes? Or have any ideas on how to improve it?
Thanks!
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  #2  
Old 04-23-2021, 08:18 AM
MurderJeep MurderJeep is offline
230 Tornado
 
Join Date: Aug 04, 2014
Location: United States
Posts: 24
I have read about some using Hemi Joints to improve it. Pictures and specifics would be great, if anyone has any knowledge on this.
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  #3  
Old 04-23-2021, 09:41 AM
SJTD SJTD is offline
304 AMC
 
Join Date: Apr 26, 2012
Location: Lompoc and Sunland, CA
Posts: 1,649
When I converted my '84 It felt kinda mushy. The clutch pedal was hanging off the left of the brake pedal support which I think was the stock arrangement.

I added a bracket between that supported the left end of the pivot shaft from above. Much more better.
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  #4  
Old 04-25-2021, 09:31 AM
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tgreese tgreese is offline
 
Join Date: May 29, 2003
Location: Medford MA USA
Posts: 11,452
Quote:
Originally Posted by MurderJeep
I have read about some using Hemi Joints to improve it. Pictures and specifics would be great, if anyone has any knowledge on this.
I have substituted Heim joints on both my J10 and CJ-6. My J20 has a different linkage design and it's not an obvious candidate.

No pictures, but the upgrade is simple in concept. The factory ball-ends on the linkage are of poor quality. They wear out and the linkage breaks. You can lose the short push rod between the bell crank and the throw-out arm. I used the original rod and ground through the spot welds that hold the original ball-end to the rod. I then threaded the factory rod to the thread size of the Heim joint and threaded it on. The CJ was a 3/8" rod and the J10 7/16" IIRC.

Their site is down for maintenance currently, but when it's up, look on McMaster-Carr for suitable Heim joints (rod ends). www.mcmaster.com

Found a picture.



This is the rod from the pedal through the floor to the bellcrank on my J10. You see the worn-out/broken factory ball end. The arrow points to the factory spot weld (crimp?) that holds the ball joint on. Grind through this and the ball end comes off. You can then thread the end of the rod to accept a new Heim joint, seen on a rod above. (the joint above is a CJ-sized 3/8" joint as an example - the J-truck requires a larger 7/16" joint).

Do the same to the adjustable rod that pushes on the clutch throw-out arm. That joint wears out faster, since it's down in the dirt and water under the Jeep. It's on the shorter bell crank arm and sees more pedal force than the long arm.
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Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination ATs, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
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Last edited by tgreese : 04-25-2021 at 10:14 AM.
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  #5  
Old 04-25-2021, 09:56 AM
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backroadin' backroadin' is offline
350 Buick
 
Join Date: Aug 11, 2004
Location: Vermont
Posts: 959
This ^^ is exactly what I did. Works good, and I spray some white lithium grease on them every now and then.
I got lucky, when the link rod fell out from under my jeep, it was in the driveway.
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  #6  
Old 04-25-2021, 10:18 AM
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tgreese tgreese is offline
 
Join Date: May 29, 2003
Location: Medford MA USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by backroadin'
...
I got lucky, when the link rod fell out from under my jeep, it was in the driveway.


In the meantime, anyone with the factory linkage that has not upgraded their push rods, suggest you use a shoe lace or similar to attach a leash to that rod. If it breaks you won't lose it!
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Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination ATs, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
ECO Green: '15 FCA Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk
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  #7  
Old 04-25-2021, 11:27 AM
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Heep-J4000 Heep-J4000 is offline
258 I6
 
Join Date: Feb 09, 2014
Location: Schoorl ,the Nederlands
Posts: 344
Back in 03/04 I put also new heim joints on that linkage of the j4000.
Got them at a supplier of farm equipment.
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  #8  
Old 04-25-2021, 07:51 PM
threepiece threepiece is offline
350 Buick
 
Join Date: Sep 17, 2005
Location: Farmington Hills Mi.
Posts: 1,319
Quote:
Originally Posted by backroadin'
I got lucky, when the link rod fell out from under my jeep, it was in the driveway.

I was not so lucky. In the early 1980 s my J10 dropped the rod when leaving the lake I was fishing. It was winter with nearly a foot of snow on the ground. I gave up looking for it after a short time.

I was able to find two 3/8” drive extensions snapped together to replace the rod. The female end fit on the remaining ball stud and the male end fit into the pocket of the clutch fork. This worked for several weeks before I replaced it.

Spherical rod ends (Heim Joints) are available in stainless steel. I use the 3/8” size on my builds.

There is I believe some difference in the geometry of the bell cranks, this could affect the performance of the system. I think the difference is between the trucks and Cherokee, because the truck body is set farther from the frame than the Cherokee.
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