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  #21  
Old 06-10-2022, 11:16 AM
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babywag babywag is offline
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Location: Land of froot loops and cukcoo-nuts, CA
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vacuum ball simply gets manifold vacuum then tees off for heater and transfer case cab controls. 80-91 pretty much all same setup.
the ball/can will have markings on it for in/out
the black firewall connection is heater
the green/yellow/red connections are transfer case

you can see it in this pic...
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88 GW, 67 J3000, 07 Magnum SRT8
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  #22  
Old 06-10-2022, 02:43 PM
altayd9 altayd9 is offline
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Well shoot, turns out it ran out of gas. Thought I had some in there but I guess it
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  #23  
Old 06-10-2022, 02:54 PM
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devildog80 devildog80 is offline
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DOH!

Gas Gremlins stole it :/
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1984 Grand Wagoneer, 401 ci (.030 over), A727 auto, Selec-trac NP229, AMC 20 REAR - D44 FRONT (6 LUG) WT 3.31, 4 in arch spring lift (not a woody - think it was ordered new without, 1984 the only year it was an option)
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  #24  
Old 06-14-2022, 10:36 AM
altayd9 altayd9 is offline
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The Mystery continues, I've put in a total of 8 gallons and now today it doesn't want to run proper again. Back to a very rough idle where it nearly stalls and barely brings it self back. Either fuel or vacuum, I'll try to check my fuel pressure to see if the pump is crapping out or if somethings clogged.
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  #25  
Old 06-14-2022, 11:05 AM
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sierrablue sierrablue is offline
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Join Date: Jan 24, 2022
Location: Northern MN
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Sounds like it could be a vacuum leak for sure. Does it seem/smell super rich when it does that? If it's super rich I'd check and make sure the idle screws aren't way off after trying to get it to run properly. If it's rich and that's not it, it's probably a stuck needle. If you can't find any big vacuum leaks right off the bat, I'd reset the idle screws (twist them in until they start to get snug (don't crank on them or you'll break something of course), and back them off 1.5-2 turns), and retune the whole thing. (sorry if this seems condescending; not sure how much you do/don't know or what all you've tried). Then if it's still not cooperating I'd do more digging on the vacuum leaks, but as long as there aren't massive ones, it should run decent at least.

As I think about it more, I suspect that it's just tuned super rich, since it wasn't getting enough gas to keep up with things, and you retuned the carb to try and get it to run better, which without enough gas getting to the carb, means that you tuned it to leak as much gas into the intake as it possibly can. I suspect that's your issue now.
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Current Rig:
'71 Wagoneer (DD)
B350/TH400/D20
open knuckle D44 front (disc brakes)
6-lug conversion rear
http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showt...79#post1734879

Previous Rig:
Tan '88 Grand Wagoneer
.030 over 401, TBI, headers
3" exhaust
31x10.5s
2" rear lift blocks
custom headliner
http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showt...77#post1734777

"The engineering side of me says that it's more than strong enough. The redneck side of me says that it's going to fall apart and I need to beef it up."--somebody I know
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  #26  
Old 06-18-2022, 08:04 PM
altayd9 altayd9 is offline
230 Tornado
 
Join Date: Aug 22, 2020
Location: Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sierrablue
Sounds like it could be a vacuum leak for sure. Does it seem/smell super rich when it does that? If it's super rich I'd check and make sure the idle screws aren't way off after trying to get it to run properly. If it's rich and that's not it, it's probably a stuck needle. If you can't find any big vacuum leaks right off the bat, I'd reset the idle screws (twist them in until they start to get snug (don't crank on them or you'll break something of course), and back them off 1.5-2 turns), and retune the whole thing. (sorry if this seems condescending; not sure how much you do/don't know or what all you've tried). Then if it's still not cooperating I'd do more digging on the vacuum leaks, but as long as there aren't massive ones, it should run decent at least.

As I think about it more, I suspect that it's just tuned super rich, since it wasn't getting enough gas to keep up with things, and you retuned the carb to try and get it to run better, which without enough gas getting to the carb, means that you tuned it to leak as much gas into the intake as it possibly can. I suspect that's your issue now.




I changed the spark plug wires and it runs a little better, but still similar. It didn't stall out, but still sounded like it ran rough and ran very rich and it went back to making a sewing machine style ticking from the bottom side. Idle still surged up and down, just faster. Idle went up when I changed the wires so I gotta bring it back down. It backfired once, but after running for a couple minutes the idle seemed to even out, but still very rich. Turning the carburetor mixture screws didn't seem to do much for the smell, so maybe I have a bigger issue in the carburetor. I don't think there are any massive vacuum leaks anymore but I'll hook up a vacuum gauge again and see how it is now. The confusing thing is it did run proper twice, and when it died on the second time it went back to running like garbage without touching the engine.
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  #27  
Old 06-18-2022, 10:49 PM
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sierrablue sierrablue is offline
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If the spark made it marginally better and you don't think the carb could be wrong, you might try giving it more timing to see what that does for it. Also if you replaced the jetswhen you did the carb rebuild, it's possible that if they're the wrong ones, that could make it rich, though I wouldn't expect that to affect idle.

Have you had the distributor out at all since it's been sitting? Any chance that it's off a tooth or something? Not likely if it was running fine and you didn't touch it, and theoretically if you're off a tooth you could still get the timing right, if the distributor moves enough for that. But if you're reasonably sure that the carb isn't the problem, I'd play with the timing and see what it does.
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Current Rig:
'71 Wagoneer (DD)
B350/TH400/D20
open knuckle D44 front (disc brakes)
6-lug conversion rear
http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showt...79#post1734879

Previous Rig:
Tan '88 Grand Wagoneer
.030 over 401, TBI, headers
3" exhaust
31x10.5s
2" rear lift blocks
custom headliner
http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showt...77#post1734777

"The engineering side of me says that it's more than strong enough. The redneck side of me says that it's going to fall apart and I need to beef it up."--somebody I know
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  #28  
Old 06-19-2022, 09:08 AM
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babywag babywag is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by altayd9
I changed the spark plug wires and it runs a little better, but still similar. It didn't stall out, but still sounded like it ran rough and ran very rich and it went back to making a sewing machine style ticking from the bottom side. Idle still surged up and down, just faster. Idle went up when I changed the wires so I gotta bring it back down. It backfired once, but after running for a couple minutes the idle seemed to even out, but still very rich. Turning the carburetor mixture screws didn't seem to do much for the smell, so maybe I have a bigger issue in the carburetor. I don't think there are any massive vacuum leaks anymore but I'll hook up a vacuum gauge again and see how it is now. The confusing thing is it did run proper twice, and when it died on the second time it went back to running like garbage without touching the engine.

If it backfired the power valve likely blew out. They fail if you look @ them the wrong way and a backfire kills them 99.9% time.
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  #29  
Old 06-19-2022, 10:49 PM
altayd9 altayd9 is offline
230 Tornado
 
Join Date: Aug 22, 2020
Location: Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by babywag
If it backfired the power valve likely blew out. They fail if you look @ them the wrong way and a backfire kills them 99.9% time.


You're probably right. Before I completely fixed the vacuum it backfired a lot, it probably killed that power valve. Idle screws do nothing to lean it out. Ordered a new one, I'll change it out when it comes in and see if it makes an improvement.
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  #30  
Old 06-20-2022, 08:24 AM
wiley-moeracing wiley-moeracing is offline
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You need to pull the carb off and tear down and inspect the idle circuits, make sure that the idle screws were not tightened down so much that the casting in the base did not break out part of the metal. You should be able to kill the running engine by turning the idle screws all the way in, if not your idle setting is way to high or the butterflys are out of adjustment and no longer running in the idle circuit of the carb or there is a leak in the system and pulling in extra fuel from some where. Get a good rebuild kit and start again, buy a gallon of carb dip( napa, oriellys) and soak the carb overnight and use some wire and snake it through all the passages and scrub it clean.
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