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  #1  
Old 08-28-2021, 09:46 AM
Theodore Theodore is offline
232 I6
 
Join Date: Sep 10, 2018
Location: KINGSPORT, TN
Posts: 67
A/C - this look a leak to you?

Was out poking around under the hood this morning & noticed a glint of neon green on a mating surface of the A/C compressor - this look like a leak to you? Have been re-doing the cooling system, etc., and antifreeze is a similar color; so am not sure whether it's AntiFreeze or A/C oil. I know when we re-filled the A/C a few weeks back, that dye was put into the system, but i'm not sure what color it is. If A/C oil, is this the deathknell for the compressor? or, can gaskets be replaced?

Even after re-filling w/R134a, the A/C temps weren't all that impressive. I was also seeing slight overheating at idle (220), with a 195 thermostat. I've since upgraded fan clutches, and it seems to have fixed the overheating at idle, and improved the A/C; that was - until i found this.

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Old 08-28-2021, 12:31 PM
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ZackN920 ZackN920 is offline
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Was antifreeze spilled or splashed anywhere? I'd clean it off and see if it reappears.

I don't think that it'd be oil. The oil I put in my Cherokee when I rebuilt the a/c was reddish in color. Don't know if there all red or not. The dye I believe is green, but if it's actually leaking there should be a light layer of dirt sticking to it too. My Grand Wagoneer has 2 lines that seep and where it is seeping is full of a light layer of dirt. Now that is an obvious sign of a leak.

What you have, I don't think is a leak.
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  #3  
Old 08-28-2021, 02:10 PM
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rang-a-stang rang-a-stang is offline
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That looks like coolant that splashed a while ago and dried.
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  #4  
Old 08-28-2021, 05:57 PM
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Cliff Cliff is offline
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It could be residue from dye injected into the freon to detect leaks. But if you didn't do it it may be very old.
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Old 09-23-2021, 08:52 AM
Theodore Theodore is offline
232 I6
 
Join Date: Sep 10, 2018
Location: KINGSPORT, TN
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A/C - this look a leak to you?

Am back with an update & background to the story. First, the A/C's never worked since we've had the GW, but it appeared to have been converted to R134A...(more on that later). A couple of months ago, i had the GW at the shop to replace the oil pan gasket, and while they were in there i asked that they pull vacuum on the A/C system to see what we have - vacuum held - hot dang, let's charge it. Noticed right away that the vent discharge temps weren't very cold - off to Advance for a vent thermo like my dad had years ago - he liked to see 40 deg air.

Disappointment: 70 degree air. This was on a 95 degree day after having driven for 45 minutes.


Compressor we're working with - sticker is mostly unreadable:


The seal on the compressor continues to leak, whether i run the A/C or not. Couple that with, after having read reams on the forums concerning A/C conversions & seeing mentions of 'replacing the drier'; got me thinking: wonder if?...: of course! - mine's factory original - ugh... & replacing it requires pulling the radiator to replace - ugh. Having just freshened up the cooling system a few weeks ago, with a flush, and pulling the radiator for a refresh at a shop (rotted out/pressure checked/painted), fan, upgraded fan clutch to heavy duty, alternator for a rebuild from 75A to 105A & pulley swap, power steering pump pulley swap to original, belts, hoses..., i thought that part was done. On the bright side, the 2nd time should be quicker!

With that said, thinking thru how our GW came to be - it's a Frankenstein, of sorts, with the PO buying the body as a roller, and the engine from a junkyard, including the TBI EFI; it stands to reason that the engine could've included the compressor (already converted to R134A), while the body contained everything else ready for R-12; so at a minimum, i need to replace the drier.

Being a youtube trained mechanic :-) I've seen a few videos showing rebuilding Sanden compressors, and have seen that the TSM also describes the process. i'm thinking about giving it a try.

Wondering if anyone here's given it a try & been successful?

Two questions on parts:
1) Compressor gasket sets: Looking at gasket sets on Century Auto Air, it appears that compressors came in 2 diameters. Short of disassembly to measure - How to tell? I've seen gasket sets elsewhere, none mention diameter, and Century's the only place where i've seen 2 options calling out diameter:
- 4.7" diameter: https://www.shopcenturyautoair.com/s..._KT-SDSMN.html
- 4.5" diameter: https://www.shopcenturyautoair.com/s...KT-SDSMNM.html

2) Shaft seals: Apparently, "older" compressors came with 2 piece seals - not sure what "older" means; again, short of disassembly - How to tell?
- compressor shaft seal set with 1-piece seal:
- https://www.shopcenturyautoair.com/s...anden-SYS.html
- compressor shaft seal set with 2-piece seal:
- https://www.shopcenturyautoair.com/s...t_SK-738N.html
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  #6  
Old 09-23-2021, 10:29 AM
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babywag babywag is offline
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You can replace the drier by pulling the grill assembly and headlight.

However be prepared to deal with stuck fittings.
On my '88 the small hard line fittings were frozen to condenser/drier and had to be cut off and a replacement made.
No amount of heat/penetrating oil/patience would crack them loose.

A dremel tool finally came out and I cut slits in the fitting(s) and peeled them off.
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  #7  
Old 09-23-2021, 11:04 AM
Theodore Theodore is offline
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Join Date: Sep 10, 2018
Location: KINGSPORT, TN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by babywag
You can replace the drier by pulling the grill assembly and headlight.

However be prepared to deal with stuck fittings.
On my '88 the small hard line fittings were frozen to condenser/drier and had to be cut off and a replacement made.
No amount of heat/penetrating oil/patience would crack them loose.

A dremel tool finally came out and I cut slits in the fitting(s) and peeled them off.

Thanks, babywag - that's good to hear - i'd seen elsewhere that there wasn't room for a dremel without pulling radiator.

Am on vacation now, but looking for parts - am hoping once i get back to have the A/C shop remove the refrigerant & leave me to my own devices to replace parts & come back for a recharge. i don't have any A/C tooling (vacuum pump / gauge set, etc.) - We'll see.
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  #8  
Old 09-23-2021, 10:19 PM
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letank letank is offline
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Location: San Francisco
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I have never been able to loosen the drier... the dremel cut is excellent, thank you Tony



you can rent/loan at the zone the vacuum pump, free for a few days -forgot the time frame- If the refrigerant is leaking thru the seal, you will be out shortly.


the issue with the R134 it that it requires a higher pressure... which the R12 compressor cannot handle, and therefore leaks... also our old condensers are not efficient for R134... a newer design call parallel flow are a lot better...



https://jeepair.com/collections/condensers-1



When I did my go getter... i bought a newer compressor R134 compatible... and it has been holding up for 3 years... I had to add a little charge as my gauges were a bit skewed , and it is cooling at highway speed, but in town it is not up to the task unless I run at full fan speed and recirculation
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74 wag, 349Kmiles on original ticker/trany, except for the rust. Will it make it to the next get together without a rebuilt? Status: needs a new body.
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  #9  
Old 09-24-2021, 07:39 AM
wiley-moeracing wiley-moeracing is offline
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Location: arizona
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Before condemning the system, what are the pressures your running, high and low, needle movement on the gauges or are they steady, did the expansion valve get changed, do not go by the charge numbers for the factory system, they will be different. If your seals on the front of the compressor are leaking chances are the bearings are gone and it will be cheaper to replace the compressor.
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  #10  
Old 09-24-2021, 06:19 PM
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Mikel Mikel is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 09, 2000
Location: New Haven, CT
Posts: 6,318
Once you sort the hardware, try R152A (keyboard duster gas - An actual A/C refrigerant). It's dirt cheap and works very well in R12 systems.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3wkBnhcyO3Y
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