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  #21  
Old 09-01-2021, 08:19 PM
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Tripwire Tripwire is offline
hey,does anyone here know how to.......
 
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Two hydrogen atoms walk into a bar.
One says, I think I’ve lost an electron.
The other says, Are you sure?
The first replies, Yes, I’m positive…

Steve
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86 GrandWag. Howell fuel Injected 360. MSD Ignition + Dizzy. 727/229 swap BJ's 2" Lift and 31's

88 Wrangler 4.2, Howell TBI and MSD - Borla Headers w/ Cat-back + winch and 31's AND a M416 trailer (-:
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  #22  
Old 09-08-2021, 02:04 PM
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tgreese tgreese is offline
 
Join Date: May 29, 2003
Location: Medford MA USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SJTD
Can you still by the two part flush? Was in a stacked can with oxalic acid in one and a neutralizer in the other. The acid component reduced the rust meaning converted it back to iron. This causes it to shrink and loosen up.

I read once that a molecule of rust is 10x the size of the iron molecule it started as so it shrinks a lot. I should look that up and verify now that info like that is so easy to find.

Oxalic acid is still available for bleaching wood, I think, even if not as a cooling system cleaner.

Hydrochloric acid, aka muriatic acid scares me as a flush agent.
You can put together the equivalent of the old 2-part kit. GM published a service bulletin on flushing coolant systems that you can find online if you search. You need wood bleach (oxalic acid) and washing soda (sodium carbonate). Both chemicals can be purchased OTC. I expect the 2-part kits were banned because of indiscriminate dumping of the waste water.

Oxalic acid combines with rust to form iron oxalate - basically turning the rust into an organic salt that dissolves in water. It's a mild acid that has to be safer for your water pump bearings and seals than muriatic acid - likely more effective too. There may be similar materials available today that are more environmentally friendly. The washing soda is a benign neutralizer.
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Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination ATs, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
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Last edited by tgreese : 09-08-2021 at 02:23 PM.
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  #23  
Old 09-12-2021, 09:05 PM
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stonehengeheels stonehengeheels is offline
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Join Date: Jan 03, 2009
Location: NC
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Can you post a picture of that T connection please? Thanks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by letank
I used the prestone for neglected cooling system and followed direction... I installed a flushing T by the heater hose to back flush the cooling system with a garden hose... and it took about 20 gallons to have a clear liquid out of the radiator, the iron blocks have a lot of rust.





I have been using distilled water for the last 10 years ... but in the early years I used dionized water from our lab still.


Interesting post from Tripwire about not using DI water...
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Last edited by stonehengeheels : 09-12-2021 at 09:16 PM.
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  #24  
Old 09-12-2021, 10:58 PM
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letank letank is offline
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Join Date: Jun 03, 2002
Location: San Francisco
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here we go, various sizes to fit any hoses... I installed it on the hose between the heater core and the intake manifold, prestone flush and fill kit:





and the radiator top detail (different fsj)






https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/22...g?v=1578615048









As for the drain/outflow on top of the radiator, the yellow fitting barely fit after a few uses, so you need to hold it with some support to keep it in the same level as the radiator cap fitting
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74 wag, 349Kmiles on original ticker/trany, except for the rust. Will it make it to the next get together without a rebuilt? Status: needs a new body.
85 Gwag, 226 Kmiles. $250 FSJ test lab since 02, that refuses to give up but still leaks.

See Ouray 2013, Engine bits and Fuel and brake lines, and Body work

Last edited by letank : 09-12-2021 at 11:34 PM.
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