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  #21  
Old 01-05-2009, 06:15 PM
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BarryL BarryL is offline
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Quote:
Trying to diagnose this on the side of the road by myself is practically impossible.
Any thoughts?

Carry a can of starting fluid. When it dies, squirt in the carb. If it runs you have a fuel problem. You can also look in the carb while working the throttle. If you see gas squirting from the accelerator pump, there is gas and the problem is something else. I would bet it is a clogged filter or vapor lock.
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  #22  
Old 01-06-2009, 09:02 AM
cerrals cerrals is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Towtruck
Don't really need to drop the tank to determine if it's the problem. Just pull the sending unit and check the sock.

How do I pull the sending unit without dropping the tank? I have a '79, I thought the access panels didn't start untill 1980....
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  #23  
Old 01-06-2009, 11:20 AM
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Towtruck Towtruck is offline
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Sorry, I don't know how the '79 is configured. But the idea of carrying some starting fluid should help isolate it.

Elliott, I'll be here all week...give me a call or send a PM. Thanks.
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  #24  
Old 03-07-2009, 06:06 PM
cerrals cerrals is offline
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UPDATE: Dies after 20 minutes, wait a few starts right back up!

OK so I'm still having this issue. Since the last post, I dropped the fuel tank, and had a radiator shop clean it, replaced the sock and the flex lines, replaced the fuel pump same problem. Today I added fuel line insulation from the fuel filter to the transmission crossmember, same problem.
After is is warmed up, while driving, a few seconds after you get on the gas it will start to sputter, get off (way off) the gas and it will go away, I stop, it idles fine, I look at my clear filter and it is full, I rev the engine in park, it is fine. It is only under load and only when warmed up, I park and turn off the engine for 5 minutes and it goes fine for 5 more miles, then same issue.
HELP, this is making me a bitter old man!, ok more of one!
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  #25  
Old 03-07-2009, 08:11 PM
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waynestiles waynestiles is offline
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Do or have someone do a timed and running fuel pressure test.
Put a gauge in downstream of the fuel pump so you can read the output as the engine is running.
Start it up and let it run at a fast idle for the 20 min. or whatever.
Note the pressure reading at startup and check it again every few min.
Log the results, time and pressure.
I'm guessing that you're gonna see the pressure fall way off starting at about 15 min or so. defective pump, even if it is a replacement

Apparently this in not uncommon with some of the chain-store fuel pumps especially the re-man ones. Even some of the old main-line supply sources like NAPA are buying offshore products now. Not long ago someone on here said that the Carter pumps are the only ones that have good quality control.
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  #26  
Old 03-07-2009, 09:42 PM
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i would also check the ignition box again. years ago when my dad owned a junk yard. he sold new and used boxes. he occasionally had to replace a new one that was defective. this matches those symptoms pretty close.
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  #27  
Old 03-07-2009, 10:00 PM
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I'm having the exact same problems! I have read where other people are complaining about the same thing. It is definately a fsj trait. I wish someone would find a deffinate answer. The search continues!
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  #28  
Old 03-08-2009, 09:20 AM
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BURT BURT is offline
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I had a 79 that did simmilar tricks, it had a aftermarket 2nd tank & I put blame on that , what I did to make it right was install a eletric pump in the fuel line , I located it about 2 feet in front of tank (under drivers seat) . wired it for a toggle switch on dash . I would turn it on when I felt any need to. I kept the mechinical as is . you could also be experincing float bowl issues , needele seat worn or dirty, float damage or adjustment. another real weird hard to find issue can come from the magnetic pick up in the dizzy, I had 1 die on way home from work at the same location witin a few blocks daily & then just strat up after 5 minutes or so . hard to locate when it works
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  #29  
Old 04-25-2014, 08:35 AM
HellCreek HellCreek is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hly3rd
I'm having the exact same problems! I have read where other people are complaining about the same thing. It is definately a fsj trait. I wish someone would find a deffinate answer. The search continues!

It's not just an FSJ trait. I have a CJ-7 with a Chevy 350 small block, mechanical fuel pump and Edelbrock 4bbl carb. It does not have an ignition module - only an ignition coil. It does have an Accel points eliminator in the distributor.

The engine will shut down without warning (no stumbling) after about 10 miles of driving. I can push in the clutch, turn the key and it restarts with no problem, while I am coasting. It then runs the additional 15 miles to work with no issues. I have replaced the points eliminator module, the fuel filter, the gas cap and the ignition switch on the column. The sudden shut-down leads me to think that it is an electrical problem rather than fuel related, so I am going to replace the coil next. Does anyone have any other suggestions?

Thanks,
Tom
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  #30  
Old 04-25-2014, 09:22 AM
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bufurd bufurd is offline
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Sounds like the coil to me. Always first thing I check when it quits when warm, starts after sit a bit.
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  #31  
Old 04-25-2014, 10:38 AM
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I always love it when 5 year old threads pop up and we never found out if the problem was fixed.
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  #32  
Old 04-25-2014, 11:09 AM
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PlasticBoob PlasticBoob is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HellCreek
Does anyone have any other suggestions?

Thanks,
Tom

Yes - start a new thread!

But seriously, it sounds like a wire with a hairline cracks. I had a similar issue except that mine was more random: http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=156360

Turns out my main supply wire was all messed up internally. Time to whip out your voltmeter.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TexasJ10
I always love it when 5 year old threads pop up and we never found out if the problem was fixed.

That's the most frustrating things about internet forums. All doom and gloom and "the sky is falling" during the first post or two, but then you never hear from them again once they get it sorted out!
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  #33  
Old 04-26-2014, 07:31 AM
HellCreek HellCreek is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PlasticBoob
Yes - start a new thread!

But seriously, it sounds like a wire with a hairline cracks. I had a similar issue except that mine was more random: http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=156360

Turns out my main supply wire was all messed up internally. Time to whip out your voltmeter.



That's the most frustrating things about internet forums. All doom and gloom and "the sky is falling" during the first post or two, but then you never hear from them again once they get it sorted out!

Hi, Rob,

I would have started a new thread, but I make it a habit of searching the forums before I post, and this thread was the most closely related.

A good suggestion on the wiring, but, since we have a new (5 years) set of Painless wiring and a new (same 5 years) set of silicone ignition wires, I'm going to guess that it isn't the wires, but I will check anyway.

Thanks,
Tom
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  #34  
Old 04-27-2014, 11:25 PM
robcollie robcollie is offline
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I had the same issue from vapor lock
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  #35  
Old 04-29-2014, 09:28 AM
HellCreek HellCreek is offline
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Usually, when there is a fuel issue causing shut-down, the vehicle "stumbles" as if "starving for fuel". This one just shuts down with no warning whatsoever. I can just turn the key while coasting, and it starts right up - no cool-down necessary.
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  #36  
Old 04-29-2014, 10:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HellCreek
Usually, when there is a fuel issue causing shut-down, the vehicle "stumbles" as if "starving for fuel". This one just shuts down with no warning whatsoever. I can just turn the key while coasting, and it starts right up - no cool-down necessary.

Correct. This sounds electrical or an ignition component has a bad connection.

If it was fuel or heat related a cool down period would be needed.

W/ engine running give it the wiggle test, carefully of course.
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  #37  
Old 04-29-2014, 01:49 PM
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Had the same problem with my coil, had an aftermarket coil and it was over heating, put in a new stock one and haven't had the problem again.
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