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  #81  
Old 09-30-2021, 04:49 PM
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Modified the factory engine stop solenoid bracket. It now works with a cable.

STOP


RUN
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  #82  
Old 10-05-2021, 09:59 AM
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A new fan for the 4B. It's from a Chevelle with a 454 gas motor. Will see how it holds up on a Diesel. It's 17.5 dia, easier to fit that the Dodge fan at 22".

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  #83  
Old 10-05-2021, 10:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scout4bta
Modified the factory engine stop solenoid bracket. It now works with a cable.

STOP


RUN

Looking good!
I'm planning to convert the 6bt that goes in my 73' j4000 to cable to.
But making the stop and run the other way around.
Also using the Cummins fan with a dodge shroud on a alloy jeep 360 radiator.
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http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=180974

99' Dodge ram 2500 4x4 crew cab 5.9 Cummins ,backup work truck for now
73' Jeep J4000 (named Heep or Desert Dragon) amc 360 V8 converted to LPG with T15/D20 (was my daily work truck for thirteen years and is going to have major overhaul
80' Jeep cj5 350 V8 Chevy/ms420/D300 (a slow ongoing never finished project)

Trucks/car's from the past:
85' Volkswagen caddy mk1 1.6 diesel.
83 Toyota land cruiser BJ42 3.4 diesel.
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  #84  
Old 10-05-2021, 01:56 PM
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A new fan. It's a GM fan for a gas motor (454 v8), will see how it holds up on the 4B (ie: Inline 4 cylinder Diesel vibration).
It's 17.5" dia. The Dodge fan is 22" dia, I always thought it was way to big for the 4B. And it's makes it a challenge to fit that large of a fan in the Jeep.
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  #85  
Old 10-08-2021, 05:25 PM
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More cooling system parts. Reducers to match the 4B engine cooling inlet/outlet to the radiator. Made from aluminum round stock.

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Last edited by scout4bta : 10-08-2021 at 05:47 PM.
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  #86  
Old 10-09-2021, 12:10 AM
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Yikes, lotta boring. Look bee-utiful, though.
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  #87  
Old 10-09-2021, 08:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SJTD
Yikes, lotta boring. Look bee-utiful, though.
I cheated, used a 1" drill on the mill drill for the roughing it in then finished it on the lathe.
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  #88  
Old 10-16-2021, 09:05 AM
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Spent the last week figuring out how to mount the radiator. Decided to fabricate a support frame and then mount the assembly in the factory location using the factory bolt holes. Inclined the radiator (5 degrees) like the factory, makes fabricating the fan shroud a little easier.

The bottom part of the support is lined with bicycle inner tube to prevent chaffing.

The holes for the radiator mount are slotted so it can slide without tearing the flanges off. And added nylon washer to accommodate the movement.

2.5" from the radiator core to the fan clutch




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  #89  
Old 11-04-2021, 10:59 AM
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Finished the engine run in stand and ran the engine until it was up to running temp.

Something is amiss, have a high speed miss with flames coming out the exhaust pipe.

Most probable cause is injectors. Sent them off to be inspected/repaired as needed.
Did a compression test, all cylinders came up to 400psi +/- 5psi, excellent!
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Last edited by scout4bta : 11-04-2021 at 01:12 PM.
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  #90  
Old 11-04-2021, 01:10 PM
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Got news from the injection shop that all the injectors tested low on pop pressure. Shop said it was a toss up between repair the injectors, labor plus parts or buy new ones. New ones are on the way.
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  #91  
Old 11-29-2021, 09:40 PM
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New injectors are in. The low pop pressure would advance the timing. I think it will cure the exhaust flame.

Now have a port in the fire wall for to see where the exhaust might route.


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  #92  
Old 12-01-2021, 11:08 AM
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That is good news! When do you plan to land the engine in the frame?
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  #93  
Old 12-01-2021, 04:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rang-a-stang
That is good news! When do you plan to land the engine in the frame?
Just before the holidays started I almost had the whole combo in. I had the engine/trans in no problem. Added the Tcase and kept having the tcase hit the tunnel. Not just the top but also the front output side. I thought about bolting up the crossmember to the trans and maneuvering it around but ran out of steam and time.
Revisited the problem today and noticed I that if I remake the trans mount I have at least .375" I could move the trans mount up, lowering the Tcase which should solve that problem. If it doesn't I'll probably have to add some more holes to the clocking ring to drop the front output down.
One thing I can say is putting the engine/trans/t-case in as one unit is the way to go.
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  #94  
Old 12-04-2021, 08:43 AM
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Remade the rear trans mount. Probably lowered the trans over an inch.
Before:

After:
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  #95  
Old 12-04-2021, 08:45 AM
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Here's how you feed a power train as one unit into a SJ
Set the angle to about 26 degrees. I've probably maxed out on the 1/2 ton limit at full extension.

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  #96  
Old 12-04-2021, 08:50 AM
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Just wide enough.

Here's where the lifting table coms in. By changing the height of the table you can change the tilt of the powertrain so it slides in.
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  #97  
Old 12-04-2021, 08:52 AM
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Install the isolators.

I did find that its easier to install the crossmember to the powertrain and then use the lifting table to aline the crossmember to the frame.
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  #98  
Old 12-04-2021, 08:54 AM
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Should be plenty of room for the shifters. I did find that the powertrain is now at 7 degrees, I'd planned for 6 degree, room for improvement.
EDIT: It took a .5" shim to bring the tilt down to 6 degrees. At least now I can adjust up or down if need be.

Exhaust is where I estimated. The extra hole to the left is from one of the previous owners. What was it for, have no idea.
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Last edited by scout4bta : 12-04-2021 at 05:09 PM.
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