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Old 03-11-2009, 03:11 PM
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Oil dripping from transfer case

As I was getting into the beast to pick up my kids, I noticed a large amount of oil under the Jeep. I crawled underneith to take a quick look, and I noticed oil dripping from the drive shaft-to-transfer case coupling. Is there a dip stick to check the amount of oil in the transfer case? How dificult is it to change out the seal to stop the leak? Am I looking at pulling the transfer case apart, or can I just get into the back of the transfer case and swap out the seals? I have an 86 GW with what I believe is a stock drive train. Any advice or help would be greatly appreceated. Thanks in advance.
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Old 03-11-2009, 03:26 PM
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You can check the level in the T.C. through the top plug, stick a finger in (yeah, it's really scientific) the fluid level should be close to the top. As far as the seal, I'll leave that to someone with more experience.
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Old 03-11-2009, 03:37 PM
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yeah just stick your finger in it even though it doesn't sound scientific. the seal should be easy to replace, a weekend project
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Old 03-11-2009, 04:39 PM
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There is also a rubber, splined washer that is inside the output yoke to prevent ATF from leaking out the spines. It is still available from the dealer. The seal is easy to change. Remove driveshaft, remove output yoke. Pop seal out with large screwdriver or seal removal tool (you can get one cheap at the parts store. It looks like a sheet metal claw with a handle). Install new seal with hammer (carefully). Put everything back together. It should only take you an hour or less it you have all the stuff already.
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Old 03-11-2009, 06:22 PM
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I took a little time and crawled under the Jeep again. Looking at the transfer case where the rear u-joint is, I noticed what I believe is the fill and drain plugs. There is a larger plug up close to the output shaft with a smaller plug below it. Is this in fact the fill and drain plug? Also, what type of fluid do you use on the transfer case?


Chevelle Guy, What is involved in removing the output shaft from the transfer case? Dropping the drive shaft is simple, I just need to know what is involved in the output shaft removal. Last question for now, what type of transfer case was stock for the 86 GW? How could I tell what type it is? What type fo identifying marks are on them? I know, that was like three questions. Again, thanks for all the help and the input everyone is providing.
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Old 03-11-2009, 06:25 PM
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As a sidebar to this thread, what size socket or wrench is needed to remove the plugs in the transfer case on a 88 GW to check the fluid ?
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  #7  
Old 03-12-2009, 12:42 AM
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lets see, the nut is a 1-1/8. atleast it was on a 208, yours should be the same. when you tighten it torque it to 120 ft/lb. lube of choice is dex 2 or 3 atf. and you dont need to remove the output shaft just the yoke. i just did one a week ago in under an hour the hardest part was geting the new seal in strait
there should be a round metal tag on the back of your t-case. wipe the grime from it and you should read a (NP) number like NP208, NP219 or NP229
good luck
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Old 03-12-2009, 07:08 AM
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Your '86 should be a NP228. Mcjeep80 answered the rest of your questions.
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10$ NP229 fix http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=2520
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  #9  
Old 03-12-2009, 07:58 AM
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Hey guys, I appreceate the help and information. I will look into this some more when the weather gets better. I think first is to get the transfer case cleaned up a bit, drop the drive shaft, remove the yoke from the output shaft. once the yoke is removed, use the special tool to pull the out put shaft seal and replace with new seal. Are there any tricks that would help with doing this? Are there any special procedures that if not followed would ruin the new seal or damage any of the components? Anythin under spring pressure that I should know about. Pending weather, I would like to try to fix this over the weekend. Again everyone, thanks for all the help and support.
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  #10  
Old 03-12-2009, 10:30 AM
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Not to hack the post but in my manuals< one says use ATF and the other says use 30HD wt motor oil, for the 208.
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  #11  
Old 03-12-2009, 11:33 AM
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ATF
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83 Wag Lt,BJ's 6"lift,360/727/Pinned229,D44/trac-lok,AMC20/lock-right,35/12.50 Baja MTZ,Pro-Jection EFI.
10$ NP229 fix http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=2520
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  #12  
Old 03-12-2009, 08:03 PM
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Yet another question for you guys. I was looking at O'Reilly autoparts to get an idea of what parts I would need. I see a few different types of "rear output shaft seals".
One looks like a typical rubber seal with what appears to be a red band around it. I assume that the red band is some type of ring maybe to help it keep its form, but I am not sure. Part # 3946
The second one lookes like a metal sleave with a bit of a flange at one end. Part # 99187
The third one looks like a thin o-ring with some type of lube or grease in a small tube. Part # 16213

Any idea of which seal or seals I should be looking for?

mcjeep80 and Chevelleguy, thanks for all your input and help with this. this is a first for me so I want to do this right. Also, I might have to take my Jeep to the Air Station to do this repair, so I want to make sure I have all the parts I need before I leave. Your help has been invaluable to ma, thank you very much.
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  #13  
Old 03-13-2009, 06:29 AM
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You need the one that looks like a regular oil seal. There is a number on the old seal but you have to remove the output yoke to see it.
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83 Wag Lt,BJ's 6"lift,360/727/Pinned229,D44/trac-lok,AMC20/lock-right,35/12.50 Baja MTZ,Pro-Jection EFI.
10$ NP229 fix http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=2520
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Old 03-13-2009, 10:03 AM
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the part no. is 3946 i cant believe i found the bag for that seal!
and the first 2 years of the 208 called for 30 wt. after that they all use atf
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  #15  
Old 03-13-2009, 10:35 AM
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Beutiful guys,
I appreceate the help here. I believe that I have the NP 228 like Chevelle guy said, but I will confirm this once the weather gets a little better out here. Either way, I believe that same part can be used for both Transfer cases if I remember what I read on the parts store web site correctly. But if the seals are not interchangeable between transfer cases I at least have a point of reference to start with. Hopefully the weather will get better this weekend and I will be able to make this repair this weekend.
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  #16  
Old 03-13-2009, 10:46 AM
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My Transfer case leak caused my spare tire to catch fire...so you might wanna get it fixed fairly quick.
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  #17  
Old 03-13-2009, 03:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chevelleguy
There is also a rubber, splined washer that is inside the output yoke to prevent ATF from leaking out the spines. It is still available from the dealer. The seal is easy to change. Remove driveshaft, remove output yoke. Pop seal out with large screwdriver or seal removal tool (you can get one cheap at the parts store. It looks like a sheet metal claw with a handle). Install new seal with hammer (carefully). Put everything back together. It should only take you an hour or less it you have all the stuff already.

I was going back through the tread as I am about to change out this seal. Reading this again has me thinking that this splined washer might be the problem. I was looking at the u-joint, and this is where the leak seems to be coming from. I noticed when I wipedthe excess oil from the drive shaft, and it seems like that is where the oil is coming from. I was so caught up in the shaft seal, that I didn't even read this. I am thinking that I should try to replace both seals. Is this splined seal something that the dealerships keep in stock? Can I pick it up at a parts store?
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Old 03-13-2009, 03:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcjeep80
lets see, the nut is a 1-1/8. atleast it was on a 208, yours should be the same. when you tighten it torque it to 120 ft/lb. lube of choice is dex 2 or 3 atf. and you dont need to remove the output shaft just the yoke. i just did one a week ago in under an hour the hardest part was geting the new seal in strait
there should be a round metal tag on the back of your t-case. wipe the grime from it and you should read a (NP) number like NP208, NP219 or NP229
good luck

When you bolt the yoke back on, what did you torque it to? Man, I need to get a service manual.
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  #19  
Old 03-13-2009, 04:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcjeep80
lets see, the nut is a 1-1/8. atleast it was on a 208, yours should be the same. when you tighten it torque it to 120 ft/lb. lube of choice is dex 2 or 3 atf. and you dont need to remove the output shaft just the yoke. i just did one a week ago in under an hour the hardest part was geting the new seal in strait
there should be a round metal tag on the back of your t-case. wipe the grime from it and you should read a (NP) number like NP208, NP219 or NP229
good luck

that answer your question?
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Old 03-13-2009, 05:29 PM
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Not completely as the question asked in the post before was what size socket is needed to remove the plug on the transfer case to check the fluid level. Now, I am not a rocket scientist, but I would think that 120 ft/lbs would be excessive on a fill plug, so I would assume that mcjeep80 was in fact talking about the torque for the out-put yoke, but I wanted to confirm. I would hate to over torque and snap the head of the bolt off and have never done this before, I really don't know what I am working with till I get it apart so the more questions I ask, the better picture in my head I have.
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