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  #1  
Old 04-18-2011, 10:47 AM
haynesm haynesm is offline
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Engine coolant leak - additive?

My 1984 GW with 150K miles has a small coolant leak in the engine. I can't tell where it is coming from. The attached photo shows amount of coolant after the GW sits about a week.

Can I use a coolant engine leak additive to stop this leak. If so what do you recommend? I have been fixing leaks for a couple of years and this is the last one. Engine runs great after warmed up. cold blooded when first starts.

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  #2  
Old 04-18-2011, 11:04 AM
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What area is le leak comming from? Front or back of the engine. Crawl under the truck and look at the freeze plugs on either side of the engine block. Also inspect around your timing cover, water pump and look around the thermostat housing. These parts are aluminum and will spawn leaks when the engine cools down. With that kind of mileage on the engine those are the areas I would look first. You can also have the cooling system pressure tested for leaks. good luck.
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Old 04-18-2011, 11:09 AM
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By looking more closely at your picture, looks like its comming from the lower radiator hose. Check the connections on the hose and squeez it with your hand (engine cold) and see if it leaks at either connection.
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  #4  
Old 04-18-2011, 11:34 AM
haynesm haynesm is offline
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The ponding of the coolant is from the slope of the drain pan. The leak coming from the front of the engine and runs by the fuel pump and down to the oil pan gasket. then follows the oil pan until it drips off.
I have resealed the theromstat housing and checked all the hoses. seams to be coming from the top front of the engine.
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  #5  
Old 04-18-2011, 12:03 PM
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1cdccop 1cdccop is offline
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I had a similar leak on my 401 in my CJ and would collect on top of the timing cover near the distributor. If I recall it looked to be comming from the front of the intake manifold in the "valley". That engine had an aluminum intake. If you want to try an additive I would go with something like alumiseal. Dont know if thats the correct spelling, but its the silver stuff. Dont use the junk with the pellets in it.
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  #6  
Old 04-18-2011, 12:47 PM
FSJ Guy FSJ Guy is offline
 
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I've used Bar's Leak in the past when I didn't know any better. ;-)

I'd locate the leak and fix it. It sounds like it's either the intake manifold or possibly the timing chain cover or water pump.
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  #7  
Old 04-18-2011, 12:49 PM
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Don't put that miracle stop leak stuff in your engine. It looks like swamp water and has chunks of crap in it, I would never put that in my engine.
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  #8  
Old 04-18-2011, 12:53 PM
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navegare navegare is offline
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I just put Alumaseal Stop Leak from Advance Auto in my radiator while I wait for the replacement to arrive and it's working OK. The fan shroud somehow rubbed into the radiator core and created a slow leak. Regardless of how well it's working, I'm changing the radiator to correct the problem because I don't feel like getting stranded when I least expect it.

As mentioned above, your problem sounds like the water pump is on the way out or is not sealing well to the timing cover.

While at the parts store I noticed they sell a UV dye that might be the ticket to pinpoint the leak, but I've never used it.
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  #9  
Old 04-18-2011, 12:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by navegare
because I don't feel like getting stranded when I least expect it.



And you own 2 FSJ's???

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  #10  
Old 04-18-2011, 01:19 PM
joe joe is offline
 
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Gonna be easier and cheaper to find/fix the leak now than it will be later figuring out what part of the cooling system is plugged up. Not saying rad goop will plug anything up but even if Bars Leak or whatever goop fixes your leak it's only temporary and will leak again soon and you sure don't want to be adding even more goop on top of the old goop.
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  #11  
Old 04-18-2011, 05:53 PM
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badaboom badaboom is offline
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Could well be the timing cover gasket
Have you recently replaced the Water pump?

Many times it is suggested to replace the timing chain cover gasket when doing the water pump. There are 3 or four common bolts between the timing cover and water pump sometimes if just replacing the water pump the common bolts will loosen up and on re-torque may not seal them up effectively.
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  #12  
Old 04-18-2011, 06:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FSJunkie
Don't put that miracle stop leak stuff in your engine. It looks like swamp water and has chunks of crap in it, I would never put that in my engine.

agreed
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  #13  
Old 04-18-2011, 06:14 PM
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austinaubinoe austinaubinoe is offline
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If its a small crack in the rad, ive had good luck with this high temp putty epoxy on my TJ's radiator. does not work to well if its plastic that cracked though.

They only stuff id ever pour into my radiator is that head gasket seal stuff. Ive heard it works great. But that would only be in a complicated import motor (you know, the kind with rubber bands holding it together)
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  #14  
Old 04-18-2011, 07:07 PM
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I've had two maddening coolant leaks from the front that were hard to find:

1) Where the lower rad hose clamps to the water pump intake.
2) The weep hole in the water pump housing. This is a tiny hole in the bottom of the casting just forward of the shaft seal. Its an "early warning" that the seal is on its way out.

But lets hope its not the water pump gasket seal seeping.
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Last edited by Rich88 : 04-18-2011 at 08:47 PM.
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  #15  
Old 04-18-2011, 07:46 PM
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letank letank is offline
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Pressure testing is really the best tool if you cannot see the origin of the drops. Get the pump at the zone or any other parts place that loan tools.

I had a few drops when cold, and the instant I added 5 to 6 psi, I found the failing gasket.

Otherwise the bar's leak or other mystery products will thicken your coolant a bit and will likely make your engine run warmer... so after 50 or 100 miles you can start to dilute the coolant. I fixed the heater freeze plug, after hammering it I could not pull it out... It has been 8 years... and a few coolant changes.
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  #16  
Old 04-18-2011, 09:17 PM
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serehill serehill is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich88
I've had two maddening coolant leaks from the front that were hard to find:

1) Where the lower rad hose clamps to the water pump intake.
2) The weep hole in the water pump housing. This is a tiny hole in the bottom of the casting just forward of the shaft seal. Its an "early warning" that the seal is on its way out.

But lets hope its not the water pump gasket seal seeping.

The weep hole in the water pump is what I was waiting for someone to say.
Water pump hoses & t stat housing would be my primary objectives.
Remember what stop leak does there are small ports in your engine it wil stop up. This stuff is not intelligent & will usually mess up more than it fixes. There are times that if there is a leak between steel & a rubber hose or an alluminum to steel surface where it will temporarily seal it & it will come back. I understand if you have a terminal issue what the heck ( Cracked head or block). I've spent many hours saying bad words cleaning this crap out of a system. . You know if it's leaking out your water pump weep hole it's getting ready to launch your fan into the radiator. The weep hole is the 1/4 inch hole on the bottom of your water pump. If it is leaking out of the weep hole & you put stop leak in it. You will realize later that you shouldn't have stopped up thast hole when your on the side of the road trying to figure how your fan got buried in the radiator & other things. FYI you never know. Assumptions are the mother of all Fords.
I guess an elementary tighten everything is in order here.
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  #17  
Old 04-19-2011, 12:29 AM
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navegare navegare is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cajun_lad


And you own 2 FSJ's???


I'm just a lucky dog... 25,000 highway miles in the 9 months I've had the Wag, not stranded yet

Uh... I have the strange feeling I've just jinxed myself...
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  #18  
Old 04-19-2011, 02:18 AM
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serehill serehill is offline
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  #19  
Old 04-19-2011, 02:43 AM
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PlasticBoob PlasticBoob is offline
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I will tell you how to use Bars Leaks. I have a corroded block I have been trying to fix for years. As a last resort, I tried Bars Leaks for LARGE LEAKS, but the trick is to only put in a TINY amount. Out of the whole bottle, I put in maybe 8-12 pellets ground up into various sizes. I ran it for a few days, and then FLUSHED the entire cooling system to get all of it out. Yes, I had to flush it about 8 times, but IT SEALED THE LEAK! However, it was only a temporary fix and the leak returned a few months later. Now, the leak may have returned because Bars Leaks is garbage, or, more likely, my block at the timing cover is just so corroded that Bars Leaks can't seal that particular type of leak due to the pressure and irregularities.

Take my experience for what it's worth. Basically I'm on the fence about it. Mind you I used it as a last resort only, though there are confirmed reports that actual vehicle manufacturers run Bars Leaks or similar pellets in their brand new cars straight from the factory. Google it.
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  #20  
Old 04-19-2011, 05:35 AM
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drlocke drlocke is offline
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I'm thinking one of the large rad hoses is letting it go at an end. Make sure the barbs are clean and not eroded pie plate thin. You may have to walk up on the clamps a few times as the new hoses settle in.

The only other thing one could do is to go to a DIY car wash or get a pressure washer and get the engine completely clean. And then completely dry. Run it up to temp and start looking.

IMHO leak-stop agents are for the situation where you have a clunker you need to drive for a while until you can afford a replacement and can junk the SOB. That said a friend of mine has always sworn by ground pepper. He has used it in cars with mildly blown head gaskets and managed to stop coolant getting into the cylinders altogether almost every time. Then the junkers could be driven for many miles before being junked for something better.
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