Originally Posted by FleetFox
I never have problems, because I never actually drive my truck...yet...
That's a good measure. It helps with fuel economy, too! People say these things suck gas but how much gas have you put in your truck? Probably almost none in the last year! A year of ownership and you haven't had to fill it up yet?!? That's great fuel economy rawt there!
Originally Posted by rocklaurence
Its all about the journey. I think Id loose interest if my Jeep ran perfect and started every time I wanted it to. My Ford Ranger for example: doesnt get a second look. Over 15 years it has only needed a Battery, Spark Coil and an AC clutch. I just get in and drive it. The FSJ is a different story. Its a Needy Girl Friend that I love to be around. The more trouble she gives me the more attention she gets.
Good point. I can't look at mine like a needy girl friend though; it's more like a loser brother-in-law that lives with you, eats all your food, lives on your couch, makes messes, doesn't have a job, and constantly complains about things. He's holding out for a management position, you know?
I knew when I bought my truck I needed to replace the rear flares. I have watched this forum for close to 6 years and have never seen anyone document how they did it. I did see one build thread, a long time ago, where someone swapped J-Truck flares onto a Cherk but it wasn't a true "This is how I did it". So I am going to document mine as I fly in pseudo blind. Feel free to call me out for doing something wrong.
Starting point: I am starting with my passenger flare because the body is square and straight around it (driver side is a bit munched). I took TONS of pictures before I started so when I install the new BJs fiberglass flare I can be sure it sits correctly. Here you can see the significant dent in the front of the flare.
In this picture, you can see where my tire would rub when I was Off-roading a couple weeks ago. Swapping to a straight flare will make the rubbing going away! YEsssss.....
The rear of the flare is much rustier than this picture makes it look. It has fiberglass filler from the previous owner as well.
And lastly, one more picture of the overall stock factory flare.
Removal: First step, I took my sawzall and made a rough cut through the flare and inner fender well, back to front.
For the record, I have cleaned my rear quarter pouch out several times. That dirt, rust, and scale was all stuck between the flare and the inner fender well. There were chunks of rusty metal, filler, and fiberglass falling off while I sawzall'ed. You can see the extent of the fiberglass in the rear most part of my flare circled in yellow.
This picture shows the relationship of the inner fender to the factory flare. Also notice the huge dent in the front was so deep it damaged the inner fender well.
Next part is not for the faint of heart. I took an air chisel, with a long flat chisel fitting, started at the rear portion of the flare and working my way up, chiseling the spot welds off to remove the last portion of the flare from the quarter panel. I am trying to leave as much inner fender as I can (more on that in a few) and I could not get a spot weld cutter on them so air chisel it was. Here's the last piece of flare removed.
Quarter panel with NOoooo flare left. It looks like the chisel damaged some of the quarter but really it is the 3 layers of paint, some filler, and some of the factory seam sealer cracking and flaking off. The metal seem unaffected:
Funny story: when I bought this truck, the belts were beyond crusty. I replaced them with new ones and threw the old ones in the quarter panel storage pouch area for emergency. Then I promptly forgot about them. Re-discovered them yesterday. Look how bad these things were!!!
Once the flare was completely removed, I trial fitted the fiberglass flares. They fit pretty well!
They sandwich between the inner wheel well and the quarter panel. Here's a view from the tailgate looking forward:
Plan: I want to pound/form the inner fender to meet the quarter panel, then butt weld them together to seal them up and create a flat area to BOLT ON rear fender flares. That way, in the future, if I crack these up, it will be a cinch to replace them. I cut a few relief cuts into the inner fender and started at the bottom rear corner. It took me about 30 minutes to get the rear most portion pounded into shape. I am really happy with that part. Then I moved to the front lower portion and repeated the process. The front is tougher because you do not have very good access to the inner wheel well. I ran out of time so here is where it sits (after about 2 hours of actual work time). Look how tiny my 33" tire looks!
I would guess I have about another hour of pounding the wheel well to meet up with the quarter panel. Then I will start trimming it, stitch welding it, and sealing it up.