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Towtruck 02-12-2019 07:55 AM

J10 Refurbish/repaint (moved from PRIS)
 
I'm moving my J10 project from PRIS to here....it's definitely not PRIS. Strip, repaint in epoxy/urethane. Final color will be Eastwood hot rod satin black. The first photo is from 2002...black epoxy only. Subsequent photos are current and illustrate UV deterioration of Epoxy without a barrier coat. Sheet metal has been media blasted. (Still trying to get the downsizing of photos correct).

url=https://flic.kr/p/2dif3ag][/url]DSCN6044 by Rufus, on Flickr
DSCN1285 by Rufus, on Flickr
[img]https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7909/461399
29485_d80d6aca04_b.jpg[/img]
DSCN1284 by Rufus, on Flickr
DSCN1298 by DSCN1365 by Rufus, on Flickr6/]Rufus[/url], on Flickr
DSCN1383 by Rufus, on Flickr
DSCN1373 by Rufus, on Flickr
[url=https://flic.kr/p/2eBnQdf]
DSCN1336 by Rufus, on Flickr
DSCN1339 by Rufus, on Flickr
DSCN1346 by Rufus, on Flickr
DSCN1284 by Rufus, on Flickr

Towtruck 02-12-2019 09:19 PM

Cab/chassis back from blaster today. Media blasting is the only way to go if faced with stripping epoxy. Rear frame gets epoxied followed by Chassis black finish tomorrow. By the way, if you look closely at the first photo you can get an idea of how the front sheet metal was lowered on the two posts either side of the radiator. The radiator is also lowered in the chassis. This is the first step in achieving a dropped front end rake via a body channel,

DSCN1389 by Rufus, on Flickr
DSCN1393 by Rufus, on Flickr
DSCN1395 by Rufus, on Flickr
DSCN1396 by Rufus, on Flickr
DSCN1397 by Rufus, on Flickr
DSCN1400 by Rufus, on Flickr
DSCN1407 by Rufus, on Flickr

rang-a-stang 02-12-2019 10:46 PM

That looks fantastic! Where is the front bumper from? Is that just a de-chromed/Debumperette'ed stocker?

Towtruck 02-13-2019 08:24 AM

It's a roll pan that I fabricated from the outer rear edges of an old hood....cut, bent a little with hand tools, and welded in the middle. It's flush with the bottom corners of the fenders...doesn't stick out like a bumper. Here's a better photo of the rear roll pan (wood and fiberglass)...

DSCN2691-1 by Rufus, on Flickr

Towtruck 02-13-2019 05:04 PM

Rear frame prepped, epoxy primed and painted (Eastwood chassis black). Inspected the Eldorado rear disk brakes that I retrofitted to the AMC-20 ten years ago...plenty of pad material remaining. Notice the steel plate welded om the top of the frame....a threaded hole in the middle accepts a ball for goose neck trailers.

Tomorrow I'm going to spray the cab/doors with Eastwood After Blast, which is a metal cleaner with a mild phosphoric acid. I used it on other blasted parts and it does a nice job of fending off flash rust. That will give me some breathing room to skim coat and block the old bondo areas before sealing it up with new epoxy and then applying the urethane primer.



DSCN1411 by Rufus, on FlickrDSCN1413 by Rufus, on Flickr

Towtruck 02-14-2019 07:01 AM

I decided to refurbish the dash board since I'll have the windshield out anyway. Notice that the left half is from the later models and the right half is from an early Gladiator. I liked the symmetrical look (like the early Mustang) and hated the original plastic/foam crash pad. So I welded the two halves together to come up with this. Custom, but subtle and still all Jeep. I have the cool old chrome clock to fill that hole. A blanking plate covers the hole for the radio since I can't much hear the radio over the side exhaust anyway. Antenna was deleted and hole welded shut long ago.

DSCN1363 by Rufus, on Flickr

SOLSAKS 02-14-2019 08:44 AM

man you did a dang fine job
that frame looks great
again I agree Eastwood has great products

love the photos

dave in NC:drivin:

Towtruck 02-14-2019 08:27 PM

Wasted the whole day repairing a leak in power steering pressure hose. The third O'Reilly's store I tried sold me an o-ring style this morning. When I pulled the old hose I discovered it had flare fittings on both ends. Went to Autozone who found a hose with flare fittings, but it was 45 minutes away at another store. I went after it. When I tried to install it, I discovered that the pump has a different thread size than the steering gear. The hose had the same (small) threads on the B-nuts. Next stop was a hydraulics shop...another 30 minute drive. They fabricated a new hose (three time the price of the ones I had returned). Upon installation I discovered that the threads on the B-nut for the steering gear were too short to compress the flare and get a leak proof seal. By then it was getting dark, so I stretched an O-ring over the flare, which raised the nut enough to snug the fitting into the gearbox. No leaks for the moment, but that little O ring is going to flatten eventually... crazy, frustrating day. I've had this truck for over 30 years and neither the pump or the gearox were changed in that time frame. I did change out the hoses a long tome ago and don't recall an issue with finding one with the proper fittings.

So...a lost day for body work. I'll start on the cab/doors tomorrow.

rang-a-stang 02-14-2019 10:33 PM

If it helps (might be too late now), I ordered this one from Rockauto and it fit like a glove:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...179435&jsn=385

Towtruck 02-15-2019 08:01 AM

Thank you for the tip. I just checked on the fabricated hose that I installed last night and there's a big puddle undet the steering gear. The Rock Auto part is on order. Think I'm out the $60 for the custom hose unless I can grind off either the bottom of the nut or the boss on the steering gear in order to get a tighter squeeze on the flare. What a nightmare over such a stupid little item....

By the way, the one I ordered from Autozone was for a '79 and it had the wrong fitting on the gearbox end. My truck is titled as an '81. According to both Autozone and O'Reilly it should have an O-ring hose. Don't believe either the steering gear or the pump was ever changed out. I suspect some older parts were being used up by AMC in the 1980 time frame.

SJTD 02-15-2019 01:44 PM

In the rocket bidness we used conical seals, one trade name was Voi-Shan or somesuch.

Aluminum or copper gaskets for under the flare. A one or two of these might get you a sealed interface.

SOLSAKS 02-15-2019 02:57 PM

you might not consider it prissy

but it sure is dang nice

good thorough work being done

it is a solid j truck.

I really like it.

dave in NC:drivin:

Towtruck 02-15-2019 08:04 PM

Got the cab/doors cleaned up today. There were many small areas that the media blaster missed/avoided, so that took a lot of time...that old epoxy is still tough as nails to remove. Then I sanded the entire thing with 220 to knock back the sand papery surface left by the blasting process. Then I masked and sprayed it all with Eastwood After Blast. So now it's protected from flash rust for an extended period. ( I park it under a roof behind the fence when I'm not working on it, but it's not well protected from the sides). The last item for today was cutting the windshield out of the seal. Nasty job, but it's now free. I have a proessionalal lined up to installed the new seal and glass. His fee is $110, and I won't mess with it for that. A couple years ago I installed the $1000 windshield in my Jaguar by myself. Like a monkey F'ing a football.

Tomorrow I'll remove the windshield, pull off whats' left of the old seal....then clean up the metal under the seal. If there's time, I'll skim the old bondo and fix a few dings that occurred since I last painted this thing.

I'm trying to beat some rain and cold forecast for next week...would like to get the cab and doors in epoxy and urethane primer by Monday.

Here's today's output and photos of the powder coated inner fenders, (and a photo of the Jaguar, which I just completed restoring in November). Feels like a production line in my garage. Looks like a war zone.

SJTD, thanks for tip on shims for flare fittings...I found them at Grainger and Amazon...under a dollar each. Much appreciated.

SOLSAKS, thanks for the kind remarks. The truck is indeed in remarkably good condition. Always a Dallas area vehicle and it hasn't been off road in over 30 years since I bought it. I purchased it from an old guy (like me) who bought it new for his delinquent son. The kid drove it for about a year and went to prison. It sat around in the father's yard awaiting the kid's parole....and it didn't happen. The old guy was fed up and put it up for sale. When I finished my Jaguar I was going to buy another project car and my spouse suggested I get this one back in shape instead. Last one before my dirt nap....except for that damned boat...

DSCN1415 by Rufus, on Flickr
DSCN1414
by Rufus, on Flickr
DSCN1416 by Rufus, on Flickr
IMG_5047 (2) by Rufus, on Flickr

bkilby 02-16-2019 09:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SJTD
In the rocket bidness we used conical seals, one trade name was Voi-Shan or somesuch.

Aluminum or copper gaskets for under the flare. A one or two of these might get you a sealed interface.





Voi-Shan is a manufacturer. Conical Seals is the correct name. Where did you used to work rocket man?


Nice project Towtruck! I dig what you did with the dash. Truck looks great.

SJTD 02-17-2019 11:10 AM

19 Years at Rocketdyne testing Atlas/Delta then ten years at Vandenberg launching Delta II and IV.

jeepman1 02-17-2019 08:43 PM

nice truck
 
That's going to be so awesome! Keep on inspiring us Please.

Towtruck 02-17-2019 10:24 PM

Sorry, no photos today because I lost my camera in the pile of rubble in the garage. But I did make some progress...sanded and repainted tailgate because it had too much orange peel on first attempt from a couple of weeks ago. As mentioned earlier, I'm using a turbine HVLP spray rig...and it takes a different application technique to get it right. Actually the main thing with this Eastwood satin black (with a turbine HVLP) is to thin it about double what Eastwood recommends. Went on very nice this time. Very little overspray with HVLP, so the traditional cloud of paint mist doesn't exist. Ideal for a garage paint booth. I still wear a Tyvek suit, isocynate rated respirator and a face shield.

The windshield came out yesterday, and I scraped, cut, wire wheeled, gnawed off the old seal today. The outer surface of the gasket flange is spick and span...the inner still has some old adhesive and remnants of the seal on it. Decided to remove the dash to get at the back side of the gasket flange. No rust, thank goodness. Will repaint the dash while it's out.

This afternoon I removed the doors and gutted them because I want to replace the forward window felt/track. These items were not avaiable when I repainted a decade ago. Anyway, that means the vent window and frame have to come out...which means the motor mechanism and door lock linkage had to come out as well. At least it makes the body work and painting easier in the long run. Motor and track will be cleaned up and lubed.

Ding repairs on doors and cab start tomorrow. The power steering hose arrives from Rock Auto on Wednesday. If I come across the camera, I'll post some photos.

jeepman1 02-19-2019 08:28 PM

Inside of my door's bad rusty but doors themselves not bad. Should I just find better doors or replace everything in these

Towtruck 02-20-2019 06:22 AM

In the past if I'm dealing with surface rust I treat it or blast it and seal. If large areas of rust through/holes/thin metal I try to find better panels. This was how I approached rust with the Jaguar. New front floor pans and trunk floor. The rest was derusted (extensive use of Evaporust). No significant issues on this Jeep.

Towtruck 02-21-2019 06:21 PM

Yesterday was power steering day. Turned out the pump was also leaking (in addition to the pressure hose). So I hunted around for a new pump in the morning and installed the pump, hoses and new belts in the afternoon.

Today I repaired a rust spot in the forward corner of the roof, which I discovered when I pulled the windshield. I cut out the bad metal, fabricated a metal patch, and welded it in. Very time consuming. The new forward window tracks arrived from TGW this afternoon...nice quality. Tomorrow I will definitely begin body work on the cab.

Attached are photos of the painted tailgate hanging over the hood of the Jaguar like the Sword of Damacles. (I'm running out of inside space to hang/store body parts). Anyway, it gives a good idea of how the hot rod black color will appear. I repainted the tailgate twice because I was initially unhappy with the bodywork and then again because I was unhappy with the orange peel. Note that this will be a single stage finish, although I could overcoat with clear later.

DSCN1422 by Rufus, on Flickr
DSCN1423 by Rufus, on Flickr

Towtruck 02-21-2019 06:41 PM

Yesterday was power steering day. Turned out the pump was also leaking (in addition to the pressure hose). So I hunted around for a new pump in the morning and installed the pump, hoses and new belts in the afternoon.

Today I repaired a rust spot in the forward corner of the roof, which I discovered when I pulled the windshield. I cut out the bad metal, fabricated a metal patch, and welded it in. Very time consuming. Tomorrow I will definitely begin body work on the cab.


Attached are photos of the painted tailgate hanging over the hood of the Jaguar like the Sword of Damacles. (I'm running out of inside space to hang/store body parts). Anyway, it gives a good idea of how the hot rod black color will appear. I painted the tailgate twice because I was initially unhappy with the bodywork and then again because I was unhappy with the orange peel. Note that this will be a single stage finish, although I could overcoat with clear later.

DSCN1422 by Rufus, on Flickr
DSCN1423 by Rufus, on Flickr

Towtruck 02-24-2019 07:15 PM

Two days expended on prepping the cab, touching up the ding repairs and partial masking. Tomorrow I'll mask off the doors and shoot the epoxy followed by urethane primer. Tuesday I'll block sandthe primer. Rain is forecast for Wednesday...I'll switch focus to prepping the doors (in the garage). I hope to shoot color on the cab and maybe the doors at the end of the week.

The forward felt window runners arrived. Nice quality. The originals are attached to the vent window tracks with very small steel rivets (not in the kit). Has anyone done this repair, and what did you use for attaching hardware?

DSCN1425 by Rufus, on Flickr
DSCN1431 by Rufus, on Flickr
DSCN1430 by Rufus, on Flickr

SOLSAKS 02-25-2019 09:03 AM

nice progress

going to look great when finished.

keep us posted.

dave in NC:drivin:

rang-a-stang 02-25-2019 09:28 AM

My goodness you work fast!

Towtruck 02-25-2019 07:32 PM

Nine hour days with no lunch yesterday and today. Trying to beat the rain. Finished up the masking this morning. Set up for painting early afternoon. The original plan was to paint it outside, but the wind was very gusty...lots of tree stuff falling. So it went into the makeshift booth in the garage. Black epoxy went on pretty well, but the HVLP turbine generates a lot of heat in the air stream, so initial cure time (thumbprint test) is very fast. By the time I got the cup cleaned for the gray urethane primer, the gun was starting to clog. And clearing an epoxy clog is a beech. So I lost some time there. I bought some hi-temp/slow reducer and need to start using it. Love the HVLP turbine gun though.


After the black epoxy I could see that my body work sux (as usual), so sprayed on multiple coats of the gray primer in the bad spots. Hoping I can block sand them out without adding more skim putty, but we'll see. As you can see it was getting dark by the time I got the truck out of the garage.

DSCN1434 by Rufus, on Flickr
DSCN1436 by Rufus, on Flickr
[url=https://flic.kr/p/2eRv2as][img]
Rufus, on Flickr
DSCN1437 by Rufus, on Flickr
DSCN1438 by Rufus, on Flickr

Towtruck 03-01-2019 07:06 PM

Well, the DFW weather keeps throwing a wrench in the works. The cab shell is about ready for color, but it was too cold to paint today....now looking at early next week. I attached a photo of the truck's covered storage spot behind the fence. The roof leaks a little as it's been bombarded with golf ball size hail a couple of times. Pretty Rube Goldbberg, but it cuts down the UV.

I worked on the doors in the semi-heated garage today. The vent window assemblies are apart and waiting for reassembly with the new felt lined tracks for the side windows. I need to find some fasteners as
I ground offthe originals.Then I'll have all the side windows retinted...don't have time to do it myself again. I want this thing done by the end of March.

Cleaned up the doors. The back side and inside looked pretty much like when I repainted them more than a decade ago. The black epoxy held up very well where it was not bombarded by UV. No rust inside the doors. I lined them with some left over Fat Mat from the Jaguar project to cut down on the noise in the cab. The body filler work is nearly there...mostly where I welded the holes for the original GW mirrors shut. I'll try to get the doors in epoxy/primer over the next few days, so that I can do a single color spray event for the cab and doors. Once I get that cab in color, I can reinstall the bed and free up the other bay in the garage. The bed still needs the Raptor sprayed in, but that can wait. Same for the fiberglass rear fenders. Lordy, I do hate body work.

DSCN1443 by Rufus, on Flickr
DSCN1448 by Rufus, on Flickr
DSCN1449 by Rufus, on Flickr
DSCN1456 by Rufus, on DSCN1460 by Rufus, on Flickr
DSCN1461 by Rufus, on Flickr

SOLSAKS 03-02-2019 10:08 AM

looks like you have been very busy.

going to be nice

I know you are itching to spray it

after all the sanding and prep.

good you have the garage to work in while it is nasty outside.

dave in NC:drivin:

Towtruck 03-03-2019 05:11 PM

Too cold to paint today, so I reassembled the vent window tracks with the new felt inserts. Straight forward task...grind off the original rivet heads, extract the worn out felt/fuzzy track inserts and reassemble with new. Again the new inserts are very nicely made with holes in exactly the correct locations. I used 1/8" aluminum rivets from Ace Hardware...shortest length available. Worked great...the heads are well below the fuzzy stuff. I'll clean up the frames and repaint when it warms up. Will paint the rivet heads black. This little task took about two hours including hunting down the rivet gun.

DSCN1463 by Rufus, on Flickr
DSCN1462 by Rufus, on Flickr

Towtruck 03-08-2019 07:38 PM

Finally got two good weather days in a row. Painted the cab in color coat yesterday and the inside of the bed and tailgate in epoxy followed by Raptor bed liner today. Hail is forecast for tonight, and with the damned bed taking up one space in the garage, my wife's Acura is sitting outside. All because the media blaster took two weeks to get the fenders, hood, etc out the door, and another two weeks to get the cab and chassis blasted. Oh well, I did beat the bugs, which should start hatching around here any day now. Here are some photos... Doing this piecemeal results in endless taping and masking. And I'm finishing up the fourth gallon of acetone because of all the small jobs followed by gun cleanup. The epoxy, hardened urethanes, and Raptor urethane are murder on spray guns if left to sit for very long. Still lovin' that turbine HVLP....anywhere I can string an extension cord I can haul the sucker to the site. And I figured out the secret to eliminating orange peel is lots of thinner, setting the gun on heavy paint flow and holding the gun close to the surface. Anyway, I'm finally on the down hill with this project. Doors are ready to paint and reassemble...that leaves the rear (fiberglass) fenders. Oh...and repaint the dash and install the windshield.

DSCN1468 by Rufus, on Flickr
DSCN1467 by Rufus, on Flickr
DSCN1466 by Rufus, on Flickr
DSCN1464 by Rufus, on Flickr
DSCN1472 by Rufus, on Flickr
DSCN1473 by Rufus, on Flickr
DSCN1475 by Rufus, on Flickr
DSCN1478 by Rufus, on Flickr
DSCN1479 by Rufus, on Flickr

GWNashville 03-08-2019 08:26 PM

Great work. Love that truck. Thanks for all the pictures.

Towtruck 03-09-2019 07:45 PM

Dodged a bullet early this morning...quarter sized hail about a mile south and golf ball size a couple miles north. That bed has to be mated to the chassis so I can get all the vehicles under a roof....Spring in NE Texas = Hail.

First thing this morning I finished some small brackets along the bottom edge of the bed. Later on I'm going make some rubber sight barriers that hide the gap between the frame and the bed for a cleaner look. After that I finished some odds and ends on the rear of chassis...sanded and painted drive shaft and shocks, restrung the tail light wiring. Took all day, but the bed is ready to install on the chassis tomorrow morning...I get my garage back.

Attached a couple of photos. ( I'm going to paint that rear window frame black). The second photo depicts the gas tank mounting brackets I fabricated to support the tank during the painting process. This allowed me to move the truck around. (I drove it back from the blaster with all front and rear sheet metal removed). The front bracket bolts into holes in the hoop shaped frame cross piece. The rear one is tack welded to the cross bar for the goose neck hitch. Anyway, I need to put the motorcycle jack under the tank in the morning and then remove those special brackets (the tank is normally suspended from the bed).

DSCN1483 by Rufus, on Flickr

DSCN1485 by Rufus, on Flickr

SJTD 03-09-2019 11:06 PM

Is the paint single stage or are you going to clear it? I ask because most base coats that are intended to be cleared only have a day or two window for the clear coat to be applied.

Towtruck 03-10-2019 03:08 AM

The Eastwood satin black is a catalyzed single stage urethane which is good to go for UV. It would have to be sanded to apply clear coat.

Towtruck 03-10-2019 02:17 PM

...got my garage back. My 110 pound spouse helped me maneuver the bed out of the garage and set it on the frame. (Third time we've done it, so we're both pretty practiced). Gas tank is bolted in place. I have to reset the angle of the bed, since I lowered the cab another 1/2" when the bed was at the sand blaster. The cab is at a 3 degree angle and the bed at 4.5 degrees, so the back end has to drop a bit.

Photos attached. I thought some folks might be interested in a couple of the Cadillac Eldorado calipers that I added to the AMC 20 axle many years ago after one of the drums grabbed sooner than the other while towing in the rain. These calipers have a built in parking brake, which simplifies the overall installation. The only issue was finding a clocking position that would work with the handbrake cable. So they're mounted upside down and on opposite sides from the Eldorado. This requires that the calipers be removed from the brackets and flipped right side up to bleed them. I stick a piece of wood the thickness of the disk between the pads. When the air is bled, flip over nd mount them on the axle.

The rest of the day is for straightening up the mess in the garage. Milestone day.

DSCN1487 by Rufus, on Flickr
DSCN1492 by Rufus, on Flickr
DSCN1493 by Rufus, on Flickr
DSCN1494 by Rufus, on Flickr
DSCN1489 by Rufus, on Flickr
DSCN1490 by Rufus, on Flickr

Towtruck 03-17-2019 03:02 PM

Nice temperatures, but bugs.....I'll take it.

There's now some space in the garage to spread out projects a bit...and I can get two cars inside if the weather threatens. I finished an in-the-car respray of the dash yesterday...turned out decent...had to be done now so that I can install the windshield (that should happen early this week).

I also epoxied and urethane primed the doors. A few very small dings became apparent when I sprayed on the wet, black epoxy, but I had to get the gray primer on while the epoxy was still "open". Hacks me off because I spend a lot of time prepping the doors. I'll do the guide paint spray trick when I block the primer, and fix the dings at that point. Oh, well, what's a couple more days.

Since I had the inner wheel wells powder coated, I decided to clean up the front sheet metal to match. The chassis black paint is almost the same sheen, so it should look nice. I stripped the old paint and undercoating and then sprayed on two heavy coats of black epoxy followed by two more coats of chassis black. Should be a tough finish for that tough environment. By the way, the third photo shows where I cut out a section of the radiator support sheet metal as part of the body channel and revised front end treatment. It gives a more pronounced "scoop" look for the raised opening in the hood, especially with the horizontal trim bar removed (see the very first photo in this string). The trim bar holes are welded shut.

So, the big remaining items are final paint on the doors, and prep/paint the rear fenders and rear roll pan....relatively small jobs in comparison to the cab and bed. Some more photos...

DSCN1506 by Rufus, on Flickr
DSCN1516 by Rufus, on Flickr
DSCN1514 by Rufus, on Flickr
DSCN1513 by Rufus, on Flickr

Towtruck 03-18-2019 05:57 PM

The windshield was installed today by a couple of pros. Took them about 45 minutes. Best $120 (plus tip) I've spent so far on this refurbish project. The windshield glass was $95, the very high quality seal from Team GW was about a hundred delivered. One thing I learned from the installation guys was that modern urethane sealant should not be used with old style rubber seals...use the old type goop. They put a bead on the cab flange, (added a little extra at the corners at my request), pushed the seal onto the flange. Then they slid the top right corner of the glass into the seal, then worked the rubber over the glass along the top edge with a special tool until they got the top left corner into the seal. With the top edge and corners in position, the sides and bottom fairly fell into place with only minor help from a special tool. Then they muscled it around a little to get it seated just right and used another tool to force the locking flap (no separate locking strip) into place. Once it was locked into position they inserted the tip of what looked like an old trigger actuated oil can under the outer flap of the and squeezed a second bead of adhesive between the glass and the seal. Perfect clean up, moved the rear view mirror lug to the new glass, moved my registration sticker, put the old glass on their truck, I paid the bill, and they were on their way. Fast and efficient. That said, I had the old glass removed, the flange was clean as a whistle, and the sheet metal around the perimeter of the seal was masked with tape.

Earlier this morning I bolted the dash back in place (I had partially removed it for painting), then repainted the front radiator support sheet metal (that I painted yesterday) for a better match to the sheen on the powder coated inner fenders. Late this afternoon I sprayed guide coat paint on the doors and block sanded. The little dings that I had missed prior to epoxy and primer are easy to spot and an easy fix. Waiting on another quart of primer from Eastwood... By the way, this job will have taken two gallons of epoxy, six quarts of urethane primer, two quarts of chassis black, and about six quarts of black satin urethane top coat. The bed took three quarts of Raptor.

Tomorrow I'll replace the power steering gear, and install the heater module, which has been out of the car for about twenty years! (The air conditioning will be installed later). The steering and heater are best done before installing the inner fenders. And then I can start bolting on the painted forward sheet metal.

Photos with glass....boring, but a big step that required outside help to show up to keep me on schedule.

DSCN1519 by Rufus, on Flickr
DSCN1520 by Rufus, on Flickr

GWNashville 03-18-2019 09:16 PM

Looking good!!!

bkilby 03-18-2019 09:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Towtruck
Then they muscled it around a little to get it seated just right and used another tool to force the locking flap (no separate locking strip) into place.





Are you talking about the chrome trim for the windshield seal? I'd like to find one that doesn't require it. Or even have a provision for it.
Looks good btw.

babywag 03-18-2019 10:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bkilby
Are you talking about the chrome trim for the windshield seal? I'd like to find one that doesn't require it. Or even have a provision for it.
Looks good btw.


No the gasket has a channel & locking strip to seal better.
You can buy gaskets for non stainless trim @ least they used to be available new.

Towtruck 03-18-2019 10:06 PM

Yes, the seal has a slot for the chrome trim. I tried and was unable to find one without the slot. But it's almost invisible for those of us who want to go without the chrome. Once again, the seal from Team GW is an extremely nice product. Perfect fit, supple rubber...the installers commented about the quality. They said they've had to deal with some really crap seals in the past. (No affiliation with TGW, just a happy customer). I also purchased the fuzzy forward track liners for the side windows from them and was pleased with the quality and fit. After struggling with poor quality aftermarket parts during my Jaguar restoration, this is a revelation.


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