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Rear Body Mounts and Frame

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  • Rear Body Mounts and Frame

    Update from previous looking for cheap rear body mounts: body mounts

    Upon closer inspection the rear frame bar is deteriorated more in that area, almost the size that there will be a day when the bushing will fall through the frame. Has anybody replaced the rear frame section. I think its just held in with BFR, (Big F-ing Rivets).

    I might try a couple things like going to home depot and buying a few lengths of 90 degree angle, in either steel or aluminum. This could be used to sister on either side of the deteriorated area and then as said before in old post slide in a hockey puck after you drill a through hole.

    My remaining questions are:

    1.) Bolts, where is access on the top side. I've had the bumper off, carpet pulled back, still can't see it. Maybe I need to look for it again.

    2.) If I break a bolt off how am I going to replace it?

    3.) Can the rear frame section be replaced, or even fliped to use the other side? hmmmm

    Any been there done that experience more than appreciated.

    [ November 18, 2004, 08:39 AM: Message edited by: Jeepeta ]

  • #2
    once with the body of i cut the section out and welded in a piece.also i am wondering about your body tub if the frame is rusted there is the body rusty as well?
    henry

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    • #3
      The body is solid. Do you remember is the frame area can be removed/flipped.

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      • #4
        I replaced the thin rear crossmember with a piece of 1/4" steel I had bent into a "C" channel at a machine shop. I think it cost me about $75 labor and materials. It was slightly taller than the frame ends but I was able to put a few washers between the steel and frame for spacers. It is a hell of a lot stouter as can be attested to by the 96 Acura that wiped out his front end on it. All it did to the crossmember was scratch the paint. I'll try to get some pics the set-up.
        Patrick V.
        MEMBER #14
        73 J4000 "The $LUT" 360 V8 bored .040 over Edelbrock 2131 1407 4V carb K8600 cam Dual Flowmaster 40 mufflers TH400 QT 3.73 Dana 44s
        78 Cherokee Chief WT "Old Blue" 360 V8 4V TH400 QT RIP

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        • #5
          Originally posted by J4GRAND:
          I replaced the thin rear crossmember with a piece of 1/4" steel I had bent into a "C" channel at a machine shop. I think it cost me about $75 labor and materials. It was slightly taller than the frame ends but I was able to put a few washers between the steel and frame for spacers. It is a hell of a lot stouter as can be attested to by the 96 Acura that wiped out his front end on it. All it did to the crossmember was scratch the paint. I'll try to get some pics the set-up.
          So how does the old frame section ("C" channel) come out?

          Guess you had to drill new bumper bracket hold too. No biggie.

          Did you have the new frame piece welded in, or bolted in.

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          • #6
            Here's a picture showing the crossmember at the left frame end. The hardest part was drilling the steel for the mounting bolts. There are 4 mounting bolts- one each top and bottom and the two in the frame end. You can see the rear body mount on top also. I can't remember exactly, but I believe we torched the old rivets out. No rear bumper on the truck; IN doesn't require a pickup to have a bumper. As I said in my earlier post, it is stout enough that a bumper really isn't needed.



            [ November 18, 2004, 09:37 AM: Message edited by: J4GRAND ]
            Patrick V.
            MEMBER #14
            73 J4000 "The $LUT" 360 V8 bored .040 over Edelbrock 2131 1407 4V carb K8600 cam Dual Flowmaster 40 mufflers TH400 QT 3.73 Dana 44s
            78 Cherokee Chief WT "Old Blue" 360 V8 4V TH400 QT RIP

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            • #7
              That does indeed look strong. I inspected the wags rear mounts more this weekend. I am really hesitant to crank the bushing bolts. I'll bet they are going to twist off.

              I am still not sure if there is access from the top if I break the bolts. I don't see it. Please don't tell me jeep just bolted into the body with no provision for easy fix if we twist off a bolt.

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              • #8
                Well. That's egzactly what they did. I know, I know " I told you not to tell me that"
                The proper repair would involve cutting the floor and accessing the body rail from that side.

                We cheated on mine. And for reasons that I don't fully recall, I had C&R cars do the repair. I gave them the parts (yes the factory bushings and ahrdware - no, not cheap)
                '85 Grand Wagoneer
                360 727auto, NP229
                body by beer (PO)
                carries wood inside
                no "wood" outside
                My other car is a fish

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                • #9
                  Thanks I confirmed all of this last night. I twisted the bolts and one broke off, and the other started spinning.

                  After I removed the RR mount, I got to looking at the body above and the metal which wasn't the best, it almost looked thin, not from rust but from movement caused by the bushing.

                  Anyway, I cut that section out and actually moved the bushing inwards about 3". This worked great since my original issue was the frame was gone on either end.

                  After looking further I really think you could access the top bolt by removing the tailgate hinge cover plate. You probably can't squeeze a wrench in there without taking off the hinge, but I really think there is enough room to jam a few screwdrivers in there to keep the sucker from spinning. We'll see when I get into the LR mount.

                  [ November 23, 2004, 06:50 AM: Message edited by: Jeepeta ]

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Jeepeta:


                    After looking further I really think you could access the top bolt by removing the tailgate hinge cover plate. You probably can't squeeze a wrench in there without taking off the hinge, but I really think there is enough room to jam a few screwdrivers in there to keep the sucker from spinning. We'll see when I get into the LR mount.
                    ---
                    I'm looking forward to finding that out. Those rear body mounts are on my to-do list as well.
                    Brad Reardon<br />1977ish Cherokee Chief.

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                    • #11
                      Here are 2 more pics of my rear crossmember.





                      It's been over 5 years since I replaced the old xmember and don't think I'll ever have to mess with this one.
                      Patrick V.
                      MEMBER #14
                      73 J4000 "The $LUT" 360 V8 bored .040 over Edelbrock 2131 1407 4V carb K8600 cam Dual Flowmaster 40 mufflers TH400 QT 3.73 Dana 44s
                      78 Cherokee Chief WT "Old Blue" 360 V8 4V TH400 QT RIP

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                      • #12
                        Agreed yours will be around for a long time, and on a another note....the rear beam is welding on my wag. So I have to make due with what is left.

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                        • #13
                          Weld, shmeld! Cut that puppy off and put a proper piece of steel back there. I'm going to hang a rear bumper soon to match the front (6" steel tube) and know it will hold. That was one of the poorest engineered pieces on our rigs- that wimpy crossmember.

                          [ November 23, 2004, 10:31 AM: Message edited by: J4GRAND ]
                          Patrick V.
                          MEMBER #14
                          73 J4000 "The $LUT" 360 V8 bored .040 over Edelbrock 2131 1407 4V carb K8600 cam Dual Flowmaster 40 mufflers TH400 QT 3.73 Dana 44s
                          78 Cherokee Chief WT "Old Blue" 360 V8 4V TH400 QT RIP

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