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Fast Ammeter Bypass

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  • Fast Ammeter Bypass

    Hallo, for my 1980 Chief I would like to do the fast ammeter bypass described at the end of this page:

    It says to relocate the ring-terminal from one of the studs to the other stud.
    But which one do I move?

    1) do I move the yellow wire to the black one?
    2) do I move the black wire to the yellow one?

    Thanks a lot

  • #2
    I don't think it matters, either way you're bypassing the ammeter.
    1990 Grand Wagoneer
    Stock 360/727/229
    Restoration in progress.


    • #3
      Move either one, but you're only bypassing the ammeter. All that current from your alternator is still going through the 20 year old wiring.
      Ethan Brady
      1987 Grand Wagoneer, slightly longer than stock.

      Don't mess with me. I once killed a living hinge.


      • #4
        ok, so what is the best solution instead of ammeter bypass?


        • #5
          Originally posted by wranglertexan
          ok, so what is the best solution instead of ammeter bypass?
          Make sure the connections to both ammeter terminals are clean and tight. Ammeters causing fires is an old wives tale. Losse dirty/corroded connections at the ampmeter cause heat in turn causing fires. Not the ampmeter. Keep it clean, keep it tight and live happy. Ammeter connections are part of normal maint that comes with owning, driving a vehicle.
          "Don't mind me. I'm just here for the alibi"


          • #6
            you could put in a shunt. The amp meter would only show half of the actual amps.
            82 Cherokee WT ? SFwith Alcan/agr box/Borgeson shaft/ 401/performer/Holley TA/HEI/BeCool/727/ALTAS(2.0/2.72/5.44)/D60 Snofighter(Yukon Zip,hubs,stubs,4.56)/14 Bolt (FF,BF shave,Discs, ARB,Artec Truss)/MTR 37/Corbeau Moab Seats /Hella/tuffy console/sliders/custombumpers&roll bar/WARN 8000/steering brace/CO2 Tank/dual batts/custom TCskid plate


            • #7
              Whatever you do, don't just cut the wires and run one from the alternator to battery cable, you will have no power to the cab. Ask me how I know. Oops!

              Note to self: Don't drink so much beer while working on Jeep.
              Trail Rig: 1991 XJ on 3/4 tons and 38's
              Tow Rig: 2002 Dodge 2500 CTD 4x4

              And the only one anybody here cares about:

              Huntin Rig/ Mild Trail Rig: 1973(must be late because it has all 74 parts) Jeep J10, 360/t18/d20. 3" lift on 33's. Runnin Great! Awaiting body work and flatbed!


              • #8
                Cut both and splice them back into each other with a connector and wrap with electrical tape, sure beats trying to run that little nut down while all the blood is running to your head, or loosing the nut or whatever. You'll spend more time messing with those little nuts in an awkward position when the effect is the same and you remove all the 30 year old hard ware from use. A voltmeter wires in anywhere and keeps you notified of any charging oddities.
                1976 J10 258/T15/D20 , Dana44's w/4.09's 31x10.50 Super Swampers BP's. HEI an otherwise stock. Runs Great. SOA/SF and 2brl soon

                1976 Cherokee NT 232/SM465/NP205, Dana44's, w/3.54. 35x12.50 Mud Chain Saws, SOA/SF, HEI. MSD, 2 brl, Wag seats etc. Hard Spanked but in work now.


                • #9
                  go to and click on alternator theory by Joe Guilbeau. Or, search here for big splice by user Joe Guilbeau. Talks about how to take full alternator power through a wire to the battery, then take power through ANL Fuses and route a 12v source to the Big Splice (where all the power wires meet under the dash) and connect there. Then, remove the ammeter circuit altogether, and add in a volt-meter (which you connect anywhere along the 12v source).
                  BJ's Off-Road
                  Your source for '63-'91 FSJ Parts