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Eliminate vacuum control for heater

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  • Eliminate vacuum control for heater

    Has anyone done this. I am considering simple cable control if its feasible.
    Simple, reliable, cool.
    Providence RI
    1979 Wagoneer 6" Lift, 35" tires. AMC 401.

  • #2
    Maybe a cable from a CJ would work? Sure there are other models that used them too.

    Keep it Jeep
    '81 CJ5 Base, 258 I6, MC2100, T176 4 spd, 300 TC, D30 Front NT, 3.31, 2-Piece AMC 20 rear NT, 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift

    '84 Grand Wagoneer, 401 V8 (.030 over), MC2150 HA Comp, 727 auto, Selec-trac NP229, AMC 20 REAR - D44 FRONT - WT 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift

    Rather be driving, than waiting to be modified


    • #3
      Would need 2 cables.
      one for defrost and one for floor vents.
      could be done but vacuum is cheap/easy/works
      88 GW, 67 J3000, 07 Magnum SRT8


      • #4
        You can replace the vacuum actuators with cables, but why bother? It's a very simple vacuum system. As long as the few hoses are in good shape and in place, it will work.
        1969 M715 6x6
        1963 J300 Swivel frame


        • #5
          Unless the vacuum switch is worn out and you are leaking vacuum through there, then a cable would be better.


          • #6
            I took my switches (4WD too) apart, lapped them on a plate of glass for a uniform surface, re-assembled with a little grease. Not worried about a leak from there anymore.
            1984 GW
            Comp 260H
            Harland Sharp Roller Rockers
            Wiseco -21cc Forged Pistons
            Performer Intake
            Holley SA 670
            MSD 8523
            Dakota Digital custom cluster
            Serehill headlamp harness
            NWMP aux tank

            1987 GW deceased
            ...but the parts live on


            • #7
              The vacuum switching from the push buttons has some mechanical sophistication. Kinda neat how it works, if you take the controls out and look. Converting that to cable would not be straightforward. Thru '75, the CJs use a panel hanging under the dash, with cable controls. Utility Trucks/Wagons too. AFAIK there is no aftermarket source for thes, so you'd need to fab or scrounge to get one. The cable controls for the '76-up CJ are avaiable from the aftermarket, but these Jeeps embed the cables in big flat dash, and there is no panel per se.
              Tim Reese
              Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS, hubcaps.
              Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination ATs, 7600 GVWR
              Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
              GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
              ECO Green: '15 FCA Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk


              • #8
                I tend to agree with most. The Vacuum under the dash is basic and pretty stinkin reliable. If it aint broke don't fix it. BUT, like Wiley-Moe said, if it is broke, you could fix it that way. Then again, all the vacuum parts (motors, switches, and lines) are pretty cheap and easy to replace.
                Chuck McTruck 71 J4000
                (Chuck McTruck Build Thread)
                79 Cherokee Chief (SOLD, goodbye old buddy)
                (Cherokee Build Thread)
                11 Nissan Pathfinder Silver Edition 4x4
                09 Mazdaspeed3 Grand Touring
                00 Baby Cherokee


                • #9
                  I've been curious about this kind of thing on mine too. Mostly because thinking about the EV conversion; it would be the one thing that would need any vacuum, so if I could eliminate the vacuum setup, then I wouldn't have to run a vacuum pump, so one less thing to draw power.

                  'Course, in my case, the EV conversion may mean that I completely redo the HVac system anyway. The motor I've been looking at is water cooled though, and you can use the tiny radiator for it as a heater core...

                  I've been thinking about it too though.
                  Current Rig:
                  '71 Wagoneer (DD)
                  open knuckle D44 front (disc brakes)
                  6-lug conversion rear

                  Previous Rig:
                  Tan '88 Grand Wagoneer
                  .030 over 401, TBI, headers
                  3" exhaust
                  2" rear lift blocks
                  custom headliner

                  "The engineering side of me says that it's more than strong enough. The redneck side of me says that it's going to fall apart and I need to beef it up."--somebody I know