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Has anyone done this. I am considering simple cable control if its feasible.
Simple, reliable, cool.
Simple, reliable, cool.
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Providence RI
1979 Wagoneer 6" Lift, 35" tires. AMC 401. -
Maybe a cable from a CJ would work? Sure there are other models that used them too.
Keep it Jeep
'81 CJ5 Base, 258 I6, MC2100, T176 4 spd, 300 TC, D30 Front NT, 3.31, 2-Piece AMC 20 rear NT, 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift
'84 Grand Wagoneer, 401 V8 (.030 over), MC2150 HA Comp, 727 auto, Selec-trac NP229, AMC 20 REAR - D44 FRONT - WT 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift
Rather be driving, than waiting to be modified -
Would need 2 cables.
one for defrost and one for floor vents.
could be done but vacuum is cheap/easy/worksTony
88 GW, 67 J3000, 07 Magnum SRT8Comment
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You can replace the vacuum actuators with cables, but why bother? It's a very simple vacuum system. As long as the few hoses are in good shape and in place, it will work.1969 M715 6x6
1963 J300 Swivel frameComment
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Unless the vacuum switch is worn out and you are leaking vacuum through there, then a cable would be better.Comment
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I took my switches (4WD too) apart, lapped them on a plate of glass for a uniform surface, re-assembled with a little grease. Not worried about a leak from there anymore.1984 GW
360
Comp 260H
Harland Sharp Roller Rockers
Wiseco -21cc Forged Pistons
Performer Intake
Holley SA 670
MSD 8523
Dakota Digital custom cluster
Serehill headlamp harness
NWMP aux tank
1987 GW deceased
...but the parts live onComment
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The vacuum switching from the push buttons has some mechanical sophistication. Kinda neat how it works, if you take the controls out and look. Converting that to cable would not be straightforward. Thru '75, the CJs use a panel hanging under the dash, with cable controls. Utility Trucks/Wagons too. AFAIK there is no aftermarket source for thes, so you'd need to fab or scrounge to get one. The cable controls for the '76-up CJ are avaiable from the aftermarket, but these Jeeps embed the cables in big flat dash, and there is no panel per se.Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination ATs, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
ECO Green: '15 FCA Jeep Cherokee KL TrailhawkComment
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I tend to agree with most. The Vacuum under the dash is basic and pretty stinkin reliable. If it aint broke don't fix it. BUT, like Wiley-Moe said, if it is broke, you could fix it that way. Then again, all the vacuum parts (motors, switches, and lines) are pretty cheap and easy to replace.Chuck McTruck 71 J4000
(Chuck McTruck Build Thread)
79 Cherokee Chief (SOLD, goodbye old buddy)
(Cherokee Build Thread)
11 Nissan Pathfinder Silver Edition 4x4
09 Mazdaspeed3 Grand Touring
00 Baby CherokeeComment
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I've been curious about this kind of thing on mine too. Mostly because thinking about the EV conversion; it would be the one thing that would need any vacuum, so if I could eliminate the vacuum setup, then I wouldn't have to run a vacuum pump, so one less thing to draw power.
'Course, in my case, the EV conversion may mean that I completely redo the HVac system anyway. The motor I've been looking at is water cooled though, and you can use the tiny radiator for it as a heater core...
I've been thinking about it too though.Current Rig:
'71 Wagoneer (DD)
B350/TH400/D20
open knuckle D44 front (disc brakes)
6-lug conversion rear
http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showt...79#post1734879
Previous Rig:
Tan '88 Grand Wagoneer
.030 over 401, TBI, headers
3" exhaust
31x10.5s
2" rear lift blocks
custom headliner
http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showt...77#post1734777
"The engineering side of me says that it's more than strong enough. The redneck side of me says that it's going to fall apart and I need to beef it up."--somebody I knowComment
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