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Yeah, the hardest part is getting the reduction unit out but it is not that hard. There are no special tools needed. Just take your time, lay down some cardboard (because fluid gets everywhere), and you will knock it out! One easy pointer, make sure you label your vacuum lines before you take them off.
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Yeah, the hardest part is getting the reduction unit out but it
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Video of in vehicle chain replace
OK, Ill give it a shot. I am a shade tree mechanic for sure, but I do make video for a living.
There will be a bunch of mistakes I'm sure but what the hell.
I was under the rig today, I already see I have clearance issues with the custom exhaust and the gas tank looks awfully close to the reduction Unit.
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Not to many videos of that fix.
Would be nice to have a good one showing the whole process.....if you can
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Awesome! Let us know how it goes! Feel free to post some stonybrook project pictures too!
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Not driving until chain swap
Took a gamble and purchased a used Morse chain. I'll see how it goes.
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Originally posted by stonybrookpicturesSo Chain can be changed while the unit is still in the vehicle correct?
is your still full time or was it converted to part time? It makes a minor difference. 1.24-1.5"?! YES! you need a new chain!!!
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3 clunks.... huh. I get a grinding noise if I do the same thing but that's from bad engines mounts allowing the engine to twist too much.... allowing the front driveshaft to rub against something. That's on a NP229 setup though. Wondering how worn engine mounts might impact a quadratrac setup?
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Originally posted by stonybrookpicturesI don't think you have a chain. My problem seems fairly common. The previous owner rebuilt the transfer case but if they used poor quality chain apparently they only last about 10.000 miles.
Here is a god write up of rebuilding a D20
https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/18...na-20-at-home/
Thanks for the link though it'll come in handy! And good luck with your clunk.
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need to check QT chain and do not give it too much throttle until you do!
if a QT chain gets loose enough to slip it can grenade the aluminum case.
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D 20
I don't think you have a chain. My problem seems fairly common. The previous owner rebuilt the transfer case but if they used poor quality chain apparently they only last about 10.000 miles.
Here is a god write up of rebuilding a D20
https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/18...na-20-at-home/
Originally posted by sierrablueMine does a similar thing every once in a while, but I haven't heard it since it's been summer and the hubs have been unlocked, so I'm assuming mine is something in/on the way to the front end. But it only does it every once in a while, so I just don't understand it. It doesn't make it go any slower, it just makes a little noise taking off from stop signs sometimes. But I have a D20 so if you think it's the chain on yours then that's certainly not my problem (or if there IS a chain in the t-case I suppose it COULD be the problem)...let us know what you find.
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Swap chain
So Chain can be changed while the unit is still in the vehicle correct?
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Fluid
Interestingly when I drained the unit I only got out 1 Qt. I believe it should have had 4 pints or 2 Qt. I"m on a slight incline with rear end down, so maybe its trapped a bit in the housing. Ill move to more level ground and check.
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Chain tension
Checked the chain today with the screw driver method. I get 1.1/4 " - 1 1/2" play. I'm pretty sure that's not good.
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Mine does a similar thing every once in a while, but I haven't heard it since it's been summer and the hubs have been unlocked, so I'm assuming mine is something in/on the way to the front end. But it only does it every once in a while, so I just don't understand it. It doesn't make it go any slower, it just makes a little noise taking off from stop signs sometimes. But I have a D20 so if you think it's the chain on yours then that's certainly not my problem (or if there IS a chain in the t-case I suppose it COULD be the problem)...let us know what you find.
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