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How to AX15 swap for my T18, any advice?

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  • #16
    Got it, just as it was worded and I was reading it, was a contradiction in my head.....
    Yep, makes sense to balance them both while doing one

    Thanks
    '81 CJ5 Base, 258 I6, MC2100, T176 4 spd, 300 TC, D30 Front NT, 3.31, 2-Piece AMC 20 rear NT, 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift

    '84 Grand Wagoneer, 401 V8 (.030 over), MC2150 HA Comp, 727 auto, Selec-trac NP229, AMC 20 REAR - D44 FRONT - WT 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift

    Rather be driving, than waiting to be modified

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    • #17
      Originally posted by Warlordsix
      I'm right in the middle of an AX15 swap now. I'm also simultaneously doing a million other things to this project, too (will start a build thread later), so the AX15 part is not finished. Nevertheless, my recommendation is to use a '94 or later AX15, as that will have an external slave cylinder...much handier. Also, be sure to get the proper pilot bearing. I'm using a National Bearing FC-69907 bearing, which is an actual bearing as opposed to a bushing as used on the earlier CJs. Cost me about $15. I'm also using the 4.0 flywheel and will have it match balanced with the AMC 360 flexplate. Hendrick Motorsport is nearby, and they charge $75 to do that. As to the transfer case, I'm using the NP231 that is currently mounted to the AX15, although I will be installing a slip yoke eliminator on it.

      Ernie
      Thats really good info Ernie, thanks!

      Is the AX15 a Drivers side transfer case, or is it a passenger side like my T18? Can you just re-clock the transfer case so that it is a passenger side drop?
      PlumCrazyChris
      Round Rock, TX
      1979 Cherokee Chief 360/T18
      1990 Grand Wagoneer - sold
      1983 Cherokee Laredo Limited - sold, and want it back!
      1979 Cherokee Chief - sold
      1976 Cherokee Chief - sold

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      • #18
        Originally posted by PlumCrazyChris
        Thats really good info Ernie, thanks!

        Is the AX15 a Drivers side transfer case, or is it a passenger side like my T18? Can you just re-clock the transfer case so that it is a passenger side drop?

        It's a driver's side drop. Seriously doubt you can flip it to passenger side drop.

        Ernie

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        • #19
          Originally posted by Warlordsix
          I'm right in the middle of an AX15 swap now. I'm also simultaneously doing a million other things to this project, too (will start a build thread later), so the AX15 part is not finished. Nevertheless, my recommendation is to use a '94 or later AX15, as that will have an external slave cylinder...much handier. Also, be sure to get the proper pilot bearing. I'm using a National Bearing FC-69907 bearing, which is an actual bearing as opposed to a bushing as used on the earlier CJs. Cost me about $15. I'm also using the 4.0 flywheel and will have it match balanced with the AMC 360 flexplate. Hendrick Motorsport is nearby, and they charge $75 to do that. As to the transfer case, I'm using the NP231 that is currently mounted to the AX15, although I will be installing a slip yoke eliminator on it.

          Ernie
          Are you using the slip yoke eliminator because the driveshaft will be 12" shorter then stock, and therefore the angle will be too great?

          Is yours lifted at all? Mines stock, and I don't really plan on lifting it. Do you think the angle would be too great without a lift?
          PlumCrazyChris
          Round Rock, TX
          1979 Cherokee Chief 360/T18
          1990 Grand Wagoneer - sold
          1983 Cherokee Laredo Limited - sold, and want it back!
          1979 Cherokee Chief - sold
          1976 Cherokee Chief - sold

          Comment


          • #20
            Originally posted by PlumCrazyChris
            Are you using the slip yoke eliminator because the driveshaft will be 12" shorter then stock, and therefore the angle will be too great?

            Is yours lifted at all? Mines stock, and I don't really plan on lifting it. Do you think the angle would be too great without a lift?
            I'm swapping on a SYE just cuz it's a better design. I don't need it for driveshaft length, although it will allow for a longer driveshaft, which is nice but not necessary for me. Reason? Because I've measured the Waggy rear shaft, and it is plenty long at 39.5" long from center of U-joint to center of U-joint. In comparison, the rear shaft on a Wrangler is 14" as I recall. So, shortening the Waggy rear shaft by 9" or so shouldn't present a problem.

            So why am I shortening the shaft at all? My build thread will explain: https://www.wranglerforum.com/thread...assis.2442501/

            Oh, and how much lift I have...mine has a 3" lift.

            Ernie

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            • #21
              4.5” longer, np208 is the way to go and 1” Dana spacer ring. Seals may be needed. 99 performance? Has a crossbar made. (I apologize for forgetting the name. I’m lucky to be alive after dealing with some backstabbing “friends “ out to steal my home and life)
              Jeep gauges are for amusement only. Any correlation between them and reality is purely coincidental.

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