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  • Vent window handle broke off - repair?

    Hello all, this is my first post to this site aside from introducing myself and my 1987 Jeep J10 Pioneer, AMC 360 / TF727 / manual transfer case.

    My driver vent window handle broke off. The stud pulled through the little housing from rust.

    I tried resetting the stud with JB Weld, no good.

    I'm wondering if anyone has been successful in replacing the wing / vent window handle shaft?

    Mine looks similar to this one:
    https://www.dennis-carpenter.com/tru...ndle-shaft-ass

    Also how would you get access to this? It looks like you'd have to remove the window and pull the frame apart.

    Any advice appreciated.
    Reid
    1987 AMC Jeep J10 Pioneer 360 / 727 / 208

  • #2
    I had a chance to search old posts and apparently the wing glass is attached with glass tape.

    My glass is already a bit loose so I think I can wriggle it out.

    Does the Ford part in my post #1 look compatible with the one you guys use to do this repair?

    My attempt to repair the stud with JB Weld taught me two things. First, that JB Weld wasn't going to work. Second, that the reattached stud has to be angled exactly right for the vent window to be fastened shut.

    So I plan to buy the replacement part and see what happens.

    BTW what's the best repair for the broken weld that holds the two door halves together? My driver door has 2 cracks about 4" apart in the steel panel just below the vent window pivot. Apparently this is not unusual.
    Reid
    1987 AMC Jeep J10 Pioneer 360 / 727 / 208

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    • #3
      I know the late ones are different than the early ones but on my '72 I simply re-welded the latch post back on...simply might not exactly be the word for it but it wasn't very difficult with a TIG welder.

      You can see what I did here
      http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showt...184059&page=26

      You are somewhat fortunate in that the later wing windows are much easier to come by than the early ones. They aren't that difficult to replace. The solution for the cracking is to take the window assembly out and weld the cracks up. Mine was also cracked and I welded it back together.
      Last edited by Crankyolman; 12-15-2021, 07:20 PM.
      '72 J4500

      Comment


      • #4
        JMO - find a vehicle being parted out and take the whole vent window and window track. The TSM tells you how to take the doors and window apart. Should not be a shortage of donors.
        Tim Reese
        Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS, hubcaps.
        Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination ATs, 7600 GVWR
        Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
        GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
        ECO Green: '15 FCA Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk

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        • #5
          Originally posted by tgreese
          JMO - find a vehicle being parted out and take the whole vent window and window track. The TSM tells you how to take the doors and window apart. Should not be a shortage of donors.
          X2 and a simpler way at the JY is to pop the rivet at the mid level, and it is a simple door panel removal and removing the nut at the bottom. I used a simple pop rivet, not the fancy OE one.


          Michel
          74 wag, 349Kmiles on original ticker/trany, except for the rust. Will it make it to the next get together without a rebuilt? Status: needs a new body.
          85 Gwag, 229 Kmiles. $250 FSJ test lab since 02, that refuses to give up but still leaks.

          See Ouray 2013, Engine bits and Fuel and brake lines, and Body work

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          • #6
            Sorry guys I just saw these. I'll recheck my notification settings.

            I'll replace the window if I have to, but I'd prefer a repair if possible.

            I'm about to reach out to the parts houses to see if I can find the correct bracket, complete assembly. If not, I'll try welding this one. If it's a total fail, I'll go with a new window.

            Here's my progress so far. The vent window itself did wriggle out. I believe it still had its original tape. I also believe the stock tape / part would be more of a gasket. Possibly with adhesive. The gasket / tape was cut to fit the contours of the bracket. I don't know what its original texture was like, but after 34 years it feels to me like tar paper.

            By far the hardest part of this was drilling out the steel rivets. I believe they were mild steel because there was rust on the side of the rivet in the inner frame.

            After removing the rivets I still had to pry the bracket out. It was pretty much rust-welded to the track, but I could wriggle it out after some heat and lubricant.

            I cleaned everything up and got some acid primer on the bracket. I believe the shaft may be stainless steel but I'm not sure; it didn't have any rust on it.

            When reinstalled, the long side of the shaft should be on top. That means there's only one way to reinsert the shaft back into the bracket. As I mentioned earlier, I'd have to be careful to weld the shaft back on at the correct angle.

            Now all I have to do is learn how to weld.

            Pics follow.








            Reid
            1987 AMC Jeep J10 Pioneer 360 / 727 / 208

            Comment


            • #7
              Does anyone know if these vent window brackets interchange with any other vehicle?

              The one in my link in post #1 isn't quite right.
              Reid
              1987 AMC Jeep J10 Pioneer 360 / 727 / 208

              Comment


              • #8
                The handle looks a lot like a 73 GM truck or same vintage Ford. as far as what goes through the glass. Later versions had a lock button. I could break into my 75 chev in under 30 seconds.
                The tape was a friction fit. If yours is still in good shape, you can use some windshield urethane on both sides to seal and glue. Just a very thin bead will suffice.
                Art
                ASE Master Collision Tech
                "Beast" - 81 "S" W/T, 85-360, T-18, Lock-rite,wag alloys, 31-10.50 Pro Comp MT's, Warn 8274 in a fabbed bumper/deer strainer(tested and approved)

                88 XJ, 3" lift, 31-10.50's, custom bumpers and winch/tow bar mounts, Warn 9500HS, custom sliders/steps, camo paint, & headliner

                Member: FSJ Prissy Restoration Assoc.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Thanks goldhammer I'll probably need that urethane.

                  I decided rather than order a part that doesn't fit, I might as well check out the junkyard. So today I pulled both the driver and passenger handles and brackets from a late 80s or early 90s Nissan Hardbody. At least I think that's what it was.

                  The Nissan's bracket was roughly the same size as the Jeep's bracket, and the shaft was roughly in the same place, so I cut them loose. When I got them home, unfortunately it was clear the lower frame channel in the Jeep vent window was quite a bit wider than the one I pulled out of the Nissan.

                  HOWEVER. The outer channel of the Nissan was a perfect fit INSIDE the Jeep window channel. I just cut the Nissan channel and layered it in. And the glass does fit. The rivets are different but I'm just going to epoxy the bracket to the channel.

                  Unfortunately the Nissan handle doesn't have the lock button. I see what you mean, where that could be a problem. Didn't notice it until later. No matter, I'll figure something out.

                  Here's a dry fit. I'll use adhesive and finalize tomorrow. Not original but it looks and functions like new, so that will do.






                  Reid
                  1987 AMC Jeep J10 Pioneer 360 / 727 / 208

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I ended up using tarpaper as sealing tape along the bottom edge. I reused the hypotenuse edge which was in good shape.

                    Cut about 1" strip, torched it to tacky, bent it around a round file. Then I reheated it, laid it in the channel hot, and slid the glass in. Pounded in with rubber mallet.

                    I dry fitted the gasket several times before installing.

                    Trimmed the excess, and it is ready to go.
                    Reid
                    1987 AMC Jeep J10 Pioneer 360 / 727 / 208

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Nice job


                      I just noticed your location is NW Wa. When I was looking for a fix for mine I went to Budget Truck Wrecking (3602 A St SE Auburn Wa 99802) and they had a later model Wagoneer that had the windows in good shape with good latches. If you find your way around Auburn you might stop and see if they still have it.
                      '72 J4500

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                      • #12
                        Thanks cranky.

                        I'm on the other side of the water but I do get to S King Co occasionally. Thanks for the tip.

                        Do you know of any good Jeep junkyards in the Seattle area?? I know there used to be some specialty junkyards near Woodinville / Maltby.
                        Reid
                        1987 AMC Jeep J10 Pioneer 360 / 727 / 208

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