Finally got a 3/4"-16 oil filter stud...

[ZackN920]

What filter's are highly recommended?

I finally got tired of not being able to find metric oil filters at the local stores. Only places I could get filters is the autoparts stores, of coarse at a ridiculous mark up.
Once I personally experienced filter problem's with the WIX 51626, I decided "screw it, i'm changing the stud". I have read about the problems (Babywag and Brynjminjones threads come to mind) regarding these filter's and am not thrilled about the fact that I have 3 more of these in my parts pile. I stocked up because I couldn't get these in town and at the time they were well regarded... and cheap

Instead of stocking up on another, i'd rather just change the stud and get something from a local store when oil change time comes around.

So, what filters do you guy's like that have swapped out the metric adapter? Remember, this era 360 does not have the bypass in the pump housing so it has to be in the filter. I understand that the Fram ph16 will fit, the ph8 should fit, but people don't like these things. I also understand the Motorcraft FL1A *should fit. I got one yesterday (under $4) just to reference and it looks like it should fit(if it don't, this filter is spec for my Lincoln). I've also read that the FL300 should fit this stud and has internal bypass and anti-drain valve, but I didn't see that at Walmart.

I'll probably get a thousand different answers, as to what each of you like but let's hear them anyways. I've done searches and haven't seen a thread like this yet.

[johnsonic]

I've read that the Baldwin b9 is a safe bet.

[ZackN920]

To be honest, I have never seen a Baldwin filter. I don't think rock auto even offers them, and definetly no one local carries them.

From what I have read, a B9 would not work correctly for a later 360, even with a 3/4-16 adapter. From what I've looked up the B9 is a 13/16" threaded filter and there is no internal bypass. In older 360's, that is ok because the oil pump housing that the filter goes to has a bypass built into it, but the later ones were blocked off from the factory.

[JeepsAndGuns]

I put a 3/4 stud in mine a few years ago. I run a purolator PL30001. Not sure what other filters that cross references to, but that is the one I run. It is also the exact same one I run on my 4.0 engines in my other jeeps. In fact, the oil filter stud I used, came from a junkyard 4.0.
The PL30001 is almost twice as long as the factory filter and adds almost another quart of oil to the system.
I also switched to the K&N HP-3001 in the stroker in my YJ. The HP-3001 is simply the K&N version of the PL30001.
If I am not mistaken, I think these cross to the motocraft FL1A

[ZackN920]

Now that's one I can get locally! Thanks for posting that. I think I have seen those K&N filters too, but those things are expensive! $12 & up from what I have seen locally.


Don't know why, but I hadn't thought of checking the online oilfilter cross-reference web site. That would (should) give a bunch of options. Funny though, they don't match when looking up cross reference between the FL1a, the PL30001, and the PH8/16 lines of filters. Must be slight differences in size or the like. They are all 3/4"-16 filters with an internal bypass and anti-drain back valve.

https://www.oilfilter-crossreference...OTORCRAFT/FL1A (funny, the K&N HP-3001 is in the list but not the purolator)

https://www.oilfilter-crossreference...rolator/L30001 (no motorcraft in this list)

https://www.oilfilter-crossreference...vert/Fram/PH16

https://www.oilfilter-crossreference...vert/Fram/PH8A


lots of options show up when looking up those frams. The 16 is a smaller filter(and to be honest-what I've been using for years in the 4.0's and Dodge 3.9) and the 8 is the larger, about the same size as an FL1A- looks like it would hold about a quart.

[acct21]

Mopar mo-090
Motorcraft FL-300A

Both great OEM filters.

Fram TG16 or XG16 also good filters -- watch out for people dumping on Fram because of a video that came out a few years ago. They've made huge improvements in QC since then.

[acct21]

From my experience, the FL1A is too long -- it will hit the motor mount before you can get it to start to thread.

There was a WIX that was a shade shorter in length, and would just barely fit (so was practically the largest filter you could spin on), but lots of folks having clattering with cold starts with WIX over last few years, so I am personally avoiding them.

[ZackN920]

That's one reason for the swap in adaptors, to get rid of the wix being the only option(yes, I could stock up on a different brand of metric filter, but I don't want too! That means more online ordering!)

I've read that about the FL1A. Some people claim they will fit and others can't make it go on. I'll find out myself on the Jeep when I swap the adaptor. In the mean time, I think I will pick up another of the recommended filter's that I can find locally, just so that if it doesn't fit, I'll have something to throw on it.

[JeepsAndGuns]

I have heard about clearance issues on some. While I have not tried the motocraft filter, the purolator fits with zero clearance issues.
I wonder if there could be a slight year model difference. Mine is a 79.

[Ristow]

i prefer filter and housings without a bypass. if you change the filter every oil change you don't need to worry about the bypass.

[ZackN920]

Why? Can you explain your reasoning or point me to a link?
You get a new bypass in each filter change if ya use a filter that has it. Nothing much to worry about and I also don't have to worry about blowing a filter all to hell when I start my engine at 0*.


Well, finally did the oil change today. Went to put in the new adaptor, wasn't too thrilled that one side of it was narrow compared to the other. So, I took a little grinder to it and opened the inside up to 1/2" on that side like the old adapter. Cleaned it and installed it. Tightened the oil pump plate bolts (its seeping between the gear cover and the timing chain cover) and checked my bypass. Took the spring and plunger assembly out and it was nice and clean. Smooth operation, so I put it back after cleaning the old oil off of it. Is there supposed to be a gasket between it's bolt and the oil pump/timing cover housing? Mine didn't have one, and it was seeping oil too.

Well, on my Jeep I found that the FL1A does fit, with about 1/2" to spare when spinning it on. A little more space once hand torqued onto its mount. I did pick up a MO-090 filter-just in case the Motorcraft wouldn't fit, but since it does I may just put it on my Dad's 4.0 when I do the oil change on his GC.

I filled the filter then put the remainder of the 5 quart container in the engine, checked to dip stick after running it and added another quart. I have seen that the oil pan can take 6 total and with the larger filter, and the rest of the oil circulating-I figure there shouldn't be any issue. Looks like I'm right, its not much higher on the stick and with regular running around no signs of aeration on the dip stick.