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  • CARDAN joint. A few questions

    1. Do we really need on on the front of a part time transfer case?
    2. Does the transfer case care if it is being attached to a cardan vs a regular u-joint?
    82 Cherokee WT ? SFwith Alcan/agr box/Borgeson shaft/ 401/performer/Holley TA/HEI/BeCool/727/ALTAS(2.0/2.72/5.44)/D60 Snofighter(Yukon Zip,hubs,stubs,4.56)/14 Bolt (FF,BF shave,Discs, ARB,Artec Truss)/MTR 37/Corbeau Moab Seats /Hella/tuffy console/sliders/custombumpers&roll bar/WARN 8000/steering brace/CO2 Tank/dual batts/custom TCskid plate






  • #2
    Originally posted by will e
    1. Do we really need on on the front of a part time transfer case?
    2. Does the transfer case care if it is being attached to a cardan vs a regular u-joint?
    1. Probably not. CJs don't use them, and their front driveshaft has more of an angle and is shorter. Only thing I can think of is a smoothness/noise issue?
    2. No, not that I can think of.
    Tim Reese
    Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS, hubcaps.
    Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination ATs, 7600 GVWR
    Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
    GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
    ECO Green: '15 FCA Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk

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    • #3
      Double cardans create less vibration, when you have a short driveshaft. If you have hubs it's not really needed since it doesn't spin all the time. But with drive slugs or a full time case, a single u joint will vibrate more at highway speeds.
      Pierce,
      77 J10 454, TH400, D20,

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      • #4
        the driveshaft angle is set up for a double cardan. probably not an issue at low offroad speeds.

        the angles will be wrong (not equal) for a regular shaft.
        Originally posted by Hankrod
        Ristows right.................again,


        Originally posted by Fasts79Chief
        ... like the little 'you know what's' that you are.


        Originally posted by Fasts79Chief
        I LOVE how Ristow has stolen my comment about him ... "Quoted" it ... and made himself famous for being an ***hole to people. Hahahahahahahahahha!
        → Where the kids hang out...

        fsjbuilder.org come for the mindless chat,stay for the hand drawn emoticons.

        It's like you're unraveling a big cable-knit sweater that someone keeps knitting...and knitting...and knitting...and knitting...

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        • #5
          Here is my thought. They came with them. So why tempt fate? Keep it lubed. It is written.
          Flint
          Ran when parked.
          http://jubileejeeps.org/quadratrac
          88 GW, 401/727/208, 5" lift, D44s/4.10s/locked up, 35s with a few Evil Twin & TT's Fabworks mods
          76 401 Wag, 77 401 Wag, 77 401 J20
          http://eviltwinfab.com http://www.ttsfabworks.com

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          • #6
            Originally posted by fulsizjeep
            Here is my thought. They came with them. So why tempt fate? Keep it lubed. It is written.
            I'm kinda with Flint on this. It didn't come with that because they tried to make the car more expensive. Years ago about the late seventies. I went cheap on a front shaft on I think a 71 Chev shortbox (part-time tcase unlocking hubs etc). Yes it worked sorta but from then on I was buying u-joints by the six pack. Went through more u-joints than oil filters. Just fix the dbl cardan, keep it lubed and you're good for another 100,000 plus miles.
            joe
            "Don't mind me. I'm just here for the alibi"

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            • #7
              If your rig is stock height..ehh you can probably get away w/o it being there.
              That being said, if your rig is lifted and you spend any time at all on icy roads.....keep the double cardan....period.

              J20 project
              BP Drivetrain...........

              Driveshafts for all Jeeps, Constant velocity rebuilds, Replacement, Repair
              775-537-7918

              https://www.facebook.com/BPShafts/

              Putting this back up. "Someone is gonna have to crawl under the rig"

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              • #8
                Originally posted by J20 project
                If your rig is stock height..ehh you can probably get away w/o it being there.
                That being said, if your rig is lifted and you spend any time at all on icy roads.....keep the double cardan....period.

                J20 project
                That seems backwards. If anything, lift is going to change the angle at the axle, and make the geometry worse for a double Cardan (DC).

                At stock height, the geometry is right: angle across the DC, and straight in for the axle end. With some lift, the pinion angle is turned down some, making the angle at the axle worse for the driveshaft.

                I'm not advocating getting rid of the DC joint ... but the geometry expects the driveshaft to go straight in to the pinion. If it doesn't, you may as well have a conventional driveshaft and limit yourself to low-speed operation.
                Tim Reese
                Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS, hubcaps.
                Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination ATs, 7600 GVWR
                Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
                GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
                ECO Green: '15 FCA Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk

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                • #9
                  Ok I'll throw this in there. I'm in the same boat as WillE. He's already lifted, I'm going SOA soon. I know an XJ shaft will bolt in. I don't know that Will is lifted enough, but after doing a cut and turn on the front axle, is the axle right for a DC? Stock driveshaft is to short for SOA? I personally will be going locking hubs but keeping the 229, for now.
                  Jeeps are Jeeps, keep Jeepin
                  >It's not about the ten hour drive to get the rust bucket jeep, it's about where your your going when it's done
                  87GW 99 Durango 5.2 drivetrain, SOA 35in Falken Wildpeak. MT rims
                  1997 Ram 1500 5.2 33in Falken Rocky Mounts for haulin

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                  • #10
                    That seems backwards. If anything, lift is going to change the angle at the axle, and make the geometry worse for a double Cardan (DC).
                    Ok your logic seems sound,,but I found this to be the case from experience that mine worked better this way......it cuts the angle in half compared to what he would be doing w/ a single joint.

                    I can assume from your experience this to not be the case?

                    Now, most folks who lift their rig lots typically purchase and install high angle cv dshafts. They do however point their pinions at the tcase though.

                    J20
                    BP Drivetrain...........

                    Driveshafts for all Jeeps, Constant velocity rebuilds, Replacement, Repair
                    775-537-7918

                    https://www.facebook.com/BPShafts/

                    Putting this back up. "Someone is gonna have to crawl under the rig"

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by jeepfan93
                      Ok I'll throw this in there. I'm in the same boat as WillE. He's already lifted, I'm going SOA soon. I know an XJ shaft will bolt in. I don't know that Will is lifted enough, but after doing a cut and turn on the front axle, is the axle right for a DC? Stock driveshaft is to short for SOA? I personally will be going locking hubs but keeping the 229, for now.
                      I just finished an SOA and the stock shaft will stretch out and bolt in. I would be afraid to wheel it though, there is no extra shaft to play with
                      Remember; When it comes to tools and toys forgiveness is ALWAYS easier than permission!

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Mr. Goatman
                        I just finished an SOA and the stock shaft will stretch out and bolt in. I would be afraid to wheel it though, there is no extra shaft to play with
                        That is a lot of stretch for your stock shaft. Even driving down the streets your shafts are limiting your suspension movement. This is hard on the TC. You should probably fix this as soon as possible.
                        82 Cherokee WT ? SFwith Alcan/agr box/Borgeson shaft/ 401/performer/Holley TA/HEI/BeCool/727/ALTAS(2.0/2.72/5.44)/D60 Snofighter(Yukon Zip,hubs,stubs,4.56)/14 Bolt (FF,BF shave,Discs, ARB,Artec Truss)/MTR 37/Corbeau Moab Seats /Hella/tuffy console/sliders/custombumpers&roll bar/WARN 8000/steering brace/CO2 Tank/dual batts/custom TCskid plate





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                        • #13
                          1. Not needed but does cut down the angle on the t-case side ujoint. DC have a slightly higher operating angle.
                          2. The t-case don't care which joint is used but the yoke does.
                          68 gladiator- 455/400/20 r.i.p.
                          78 wagoneer- 401, drw60, drw70, 203/205, 38's, oba, obw, hydroboost, dual p/s pump, bla bla bla

                          "If you don't stand for something, you'll fall for anything."

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                          • #14
                            Actually the transfercase does care. A straight shaft will create more stress at high angles, so you will put more stress on the output bearing. At low speeds this may be un-noticeable, but if you have to pickup speed the bearing will whine.
                            '85 Grand Wagoneer "Caterpillar"
                            401, NV4500, 3/4 ton gear

                            '79 Cherokee "The Sandgorgon"
                            One Tons, SOA,T18 on 40's

                            78 J10 "Imoteb"
                            J20 running gear and axles

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Heimeken
                              Actually the transfercase does care. A straight shaft will create more stress at high angles, so you will put more stress on the output bearing. At low speeds this may be un-noticeable, but if you have to pickup speed the bearing will whine.
                              Agreed about driveline angle making a difference but how they attach don't matter as long as the yoke matches.
                              68 gladiator- 455/400/20 r.i.p.
                              78 wagoneer- 401, drw60, drw70, 203/205, 38's, oba, obw, hydroboost, dual p/s pump, bla bla bla

                              "If you don't stand for something, you'll fall for anything."

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