Fewer vacuum lines ?CTO's <smog stuff

[GotMeAwoodie]

No offense intended toward the purists but I'm ready to simplify the wagon, hoping to drive it more than I work on it this year.

the air pump works but the lines into the exhaust manifolds are shot, the exhaust overall is shot. The vacuum lines however are making me crazy. I've replaced most of them( looking for advice on replacing the ones from the dash into the ball) decided stripping the wagon down to the bare bones version of vacuum lines. ??? with regards to the 3 CTO's, should I pull them and plug the head and with what size bolts or leave them and cap them off, thought someone in another thread mentioned they are inoperable once the lines are pulled.

I realize it's a 50 50 on pulling everything verses replacing everything however my to do list on the wagon extends way beyond the motor and the wagon is driven so little I'm not concerned about the global warming. Seems like plenty of you have scaled back the emissions stuff and life got easier. Is there a simple formula??

Just got my rig back from my mechanic and after a month of being stored in his lot it idles better but overall runs like crap when I get on it.

any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks

[addicted]

Do you have to pass emissions testing?

[GotMeAwoodie]

NO emissions testing, I'll save all the pieces in a box just in case, but for now anything goes...

[tgreese]

Here's your vacuum diagram:



Which part do you not understand?

Some of this stuff has utility beyond the emissions functions, like vapor recovery and TAC. Your engine will probably run worse without EGR and its plumbing, unless you modify the engine to compensate.

Do you have the factory manual for '89? It will describe each system.

Have you considered an aftermarket electronic fuel injection system? Likely worthwhile if this is a nice car. To me, EFI is much simpler than all these vacuum-driven systems. And you can stay emissions legal, if that's an issue.

[Ristow]

NO emissions testing, I'll save all the pieces in a box just in case, but for now anything goes...

gut it all. i've never had a problem disconnecting the egr. i pull that charcoal can too. keep the pcv.

[addicted]

gut it all. i've never had a problem disconnecting the egr. i pull that charcoal can too. keep the pcv.

Beat me to it.

All that crap is purely for emissions. And putting (TBI) fuel injection on these things is a joke. You won't get better fuel economy and it won't run any better than a properly working carburetor and ignition system. It will however lighten your wallet and give you the opportunity to tell people you have it.

[DemkoG]

Hear is what I am running very simple the only down fall after doing this is I feel it needs an extra min to warm up. I got a slight hesitation when the wag was cold but that could have been a choke issue.

http://tc.wagoneer.net/sblog/static....sj_vac_routing

Very help full easy and broken down way to look at all you hoses.

[Dr_Jim]

I'm in a similar boat.
The PO of my new J truck....has disassembled random parts of the emmisions....I got hoses hanging disconnected and loose....other stuff hooked up....some parts there, some parts no there.

And I just haven't had the time yet to figure out what I can 'safely' remove....and what I can't. See, it runs great right now! I would hate to screw something up!

Good luck!

[manimal]

I do not understand the concept of the spark CTO(CTS whatever you want to call it) it has PORTED AND MANIFOLD vacuum hooked to it? The ported side T's off and goes to the purge signal side of the charcoal canister? This does not make any sense to me what so ever....unless the valve operates the "PORTED" side at a certain temp then "MANIFOLD" at another temp. Seems to me you could eliminate the "T" and hook the ported straight to the canister....help me out here.

[Dr_Jim]

".....The Spark CTO decides whether the vacuum advance gets manifold (cold) or ported vacuum (warm). On the warm side, ported vacuum traces back to the passenger side of the carb. It does branch off to that mysterious device (NLVR), but ignore that for the moment. Ported vacuum also traces to the purge valve on the emissions canister (not highlighted here; refer to the complete spark diagram later on). So when the engine is warm it gets ported vacuum......"

So yes. It decides whether to use port or manifold based on temp....


Edit: I can add that as much as I can read that article....and follow those diagrams....when he's explaining how to "simplify" some of the stuff early on,...I cannot grasp how to re-route things properly.
I wish there was an even 'simpler' breakdown of "what can be removed" and "what gets re-tubed" when things get removed in a nice diagram...showing the end result of what remains.

[Redseal]

My question on this is will it work on my 90 waggy?? And what about the vacuum to the dash and 4x4 switch?

[Strode]

Hear is what I am running very simple the only down fall after doing this is I feel it needs an extra min to warm up. I got a slight hesitation when the wag was cold but that could have been a choke issue.

http://tc.wagoneer.net/sblog/static....sj_vac_routing

Very help full easy and broken down way to look at all you hoses.

By doing it this way, what have you eliminated or improved? (Besides eliminating a bunch of vacuum tubing....)

Just trying to learn....

[addicted]

It will work on all of these Jeeps if you don't need to pass emissions or want to keep it stock.

You still need to retain the vacuum ball on the firewall which feeds your t-case system and heater controls. Plus the one on the fender for your cruise if you still have it.

[addicted]

By doing it this way, what have you eliminated or improved? (Besides eliminating a bunch of vacuum tubing....)

Just trying to learn....

The only things in that pic you need to keep are the PCV hoses and valve and run the distributor hose straight to the manifold port. The rest can go in the trash or be donated to somebody that needs them.

[GotMeAwoodie]

did you cap the CTO's or do you know what size bolts to plug the head with? and EGR I've read can be disconnected and left inoperable ?if you remove the EGR what do you use to fill that void?


The charcoal can looks easy enough to remove, a few of the lines were already plugged by the PO, what's the best way to handle the fuel line venting the tank? it wraps behind the block and out of sight?? don't want the fire extinguisher riding shotgun