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  • HEI Trouble

    So I had the day off and decided to swap my Autolite over to Accel HEI......had a little trouble with the wiring but solved the problem and got it running. Well it fired right up then I shut it down to get myself set up to adjust the timing....went to start it again and heard a clashing sound so I pulled the dizzy and no gear damage. At that point I solved my proble again by the dizzy no being fully seated, now put it back all together the exact same way and now it won't start. I went through and set it to TDC and put it back together again...still not starting. I pulled the cap apart and found the contact going through the cap didn't seem to be deep enough to go through the cap. Can the rotor button with the spring and rubber grommet be purchased seperately? Or am I just missing something obvious. I did also check to see it the was power to the dizzy and I have full power. Any suggestions would be great! Thank you!
    Give a man a fish he will eat for a day unless it's a really big fish but, teach him to fish and he will drink beer all day!
    1977 Jeep Cherokee wide trac 2nd owner 88,981 miles
    2006 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited

  • #2
    Originally posted by CasualGourmet
    So I had the day off and decided to swap my Autolite over to Accel HEI......had a little trouble with the wiring but solved the problem and got it running. Well it fired right up then I shut it down to get myself set up to adjust the timing....went to start it again and heard a clashing sound so I pulled the dizzy and no gear damage. At that point I solved my proble again by the dizzy no being fully seated, now put it back all together the exact same way and now it won't start. I went through and set it to TDC and put it back together again...still not starting. I pulled the cap apart and found the contact going through the cap didn't seem to be deep enough to go through the cap. Can the rotor button with the spring and rubber grommet be purchased seperately? Or am I just missing something obvious. I did also check to see it the was power to the dizzy and I have full power. Any suggestions would be great! Thank you!
    Put your Autolite back on?
    Jeepasaurus (Wagonus Grandi quadropedus)
    88 GW 360-.030 over/2150/727/229/Posi, e-pump, AC (broke), tow package, Monroe Air Shocks, TFI, CTO-Free, AIR-free, oil & tranny coolers, dried knuckle blood all over, GM 350 TBI in a box, waiting...
    "You're an FSJ'r when the parts guys memorize your name, phone & credit card#."

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    • #3
      I would but the vacuum advance mechanism broke.....so that's why I went ahead and installed the HEI in.
      Give a man a fish he will eat for a day unless it's a really big fish but, teach him to fish and he will drink beer all day!
      1977 Jeep Cherokee wide trac 2nd owner 88,981 miles
      2006 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited

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      • #4
        If it was deep enough to get through the cap the first time it was running, I doubt that is the issue.

        Sounds like maybe you stabbed it wrong. I have an 85 I replaced the dizzy in and did everything right... several times...never could get it running. Professional Mechanic bud of mine came over and he tried looked around, stabbed the dizz... nothing. towed it to his house, he stabbed it once more and it fired right up and never looked back. Somehow we just weren't quite holding our mouths right the first 10 times we stabbed it! Turns out the harmonic balancer is bad and is spun off the center, so that did not help!

        Try stabbing it again just to see what happens. Make EXTRA sure you are at TDC on the compression stroke for #1. I know it sounds futile, but I have been messing with and building engines for decades still screwed it up! Between the dizz body, roter and oil pump shaft, there's a lot that can get you off kilter there!

        Have a great weekend,
        Jesse- Sparta, MO (Near SPfdl MO) J20 4 Door Project, Wag w/ 6" Rusty's, 33x12.5's, 360/727 (for now!), 77 J10, 80 J20, 3 80's Wags, 73 Commando, Lots of AMC Eagles, FSJ parts Rigs and parts

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        • #5
          Leave the dist out,remove the #1 sparkplug,put a finger over the hole,have someone bump the starter till you feel the compression coming out of the hole,remove the ignition key,turn the crank by hand untill you line up the timing mark at whatever you want your ignition timing to be (8 degrees or so),insert your distributor all the way down to the block with the rotor close to where you want #1 plug wire to be(make sure the oil pump drive is fully engaged),hook up the wires to the dist,install the dist cap,hok up the #1 plug wire to the cap and to the spark plug that you removed earlier,ground the spark plug so you can see the electrode,turn on the ignition switch,grab the dist at the base and twist it back and forth quickly till you see a spark,continue with shorter twists till you have the point of spark figured out,lock down the distributor at that point,shut off the key,hook up the other plug wires,install the #1 plug and wire,prime the carb with gas through the bowl vent,now FIRE IT UP!! this is called static timing and it works every time on any non computer engine. good luck.DENNIS
          ?Don't do anything by half. If you love someone, love them with all your soul. When you go to work, work your *** off. When you hate someone, hate them until it hurts.? Henry Rollins

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