'Da Chief . . . So it Begins again

[cu4whln]

Stereo Day ?? Sort of.

Nice work Jim. I ended up buying a weather pack kit to make my own connections. Makes thing easier.

If you put that amp behind the dash, you sure you're going to be able to access it? I ended up putting mine on the kick panels.

Or amp under the seat? Gets better air flow to keep it cooler."
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Amp mounting:
That is indeed the question!
How to mount the amp.. It will not fit under the seat for sure...
Since I decided to upgrade the amp (bigger physical size ), decided to upgrade the front speakers as well.
Remember, I am adding some center dash speakers as well...
Now there will be a full matched speaker set up front.
Hoping this sounds better!

Anyway, old vs new speakers - Big difference in size.
Both are 6 1/2" speakers btw.

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Another part of this are the included crossovers ( Two - one for each channel)

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These have outputs for woofer, mid, and tweeter.
They are also BIG, and have some weight to them.

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Where to mount these now?? Ugh.
I think the door is the only viable option.
Of course, this will mean extra wires OUT of the door to power the center dash speakers.
The website says they are waterproof. Hmm . . .
Wonder how they will hold up to slamming doors??

I did a fair amount of research on how to put a decent system together.
Sorry for the stereo dribble... Not exactly Jeep related!

[cu4whln]

More Details . . .

Since I was thinking stereo stuff, decided to officially mount the subwoofer box. The white insulation is for damping inside the sub box.
This was in preparation for the rear trim panel mounting and trimming.

Box screwed down in position:

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Note -
I collected 4 extra of the front door stainless strips that the door panel slides into at the top.
I mounted them all the way to the back of the interior.
This way, I can mount the new trim panels like the front door, but all the way back.

Had to remove about an inch to fit the rear one -

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Here is the rear driver trim piece - Mid trim panel is not installed yet.

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Mid panel mounted-

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The subwoofer side ..
I cut the abs trim out around the sub box.
This drove me to make 2 separate parts to make mounting better/possible.
Same idea for stainless trim over here.

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[cu4whln]

In Today's News . . .

Still more polishing...
This is the rear carpet hold down strip.
Note the shiny lower part.. top is yet to be polished.
Looks 95% better.
Have to do all the carpet strips, and THAT should about finish the polishing... YEA !

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So, stupid stereo stuff is taking FOREVER. DANG IT !

Had to change the usually horizontal stiffening part to a vertical position.
Found some nice stainless self tapping screws to replace the 45 year old rusty ones.
This was to make room for the huge crossovers (Grey part in door)
This part has one wire in, 3 wires out to woofer, mid, and tweeter.

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So, have two wires running into the door jam...
The mid range speakers are in the center of the dash, so signal has to be processed by the crossover and run back OUT of the door.
Had to cram the wires into the original part that keeps the wires from being pinched. Some tape holds them in pretty well.

After basic speaker mounting, add more sound deadener to help dampen and quiet the door.

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Then a foam speaker baffle was installed and all the wires run.
This protects the speaker from water damage and controls sound (so they say)

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Tweeter mounting is on the door at the front.
Also a pain. They are surface mounted, but the wires would ground out on the door, so had to cut a slot for them.

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This stuff is taking forever!
Pass door is basically done, Driver door half done. driver is taking less time as the "plan" was worked out on the other side.

This is a pita... and I am getting a bit frustrated
I hope to get the rest done maybe tomorrow... Hook up all the wires, do a test run, and move on.

Good news -
Found an "Old School" glass guy willing to tackle the windshield/stainless trim and side glass install at my house!
BUT first, I have to get the rear side windows tinted..
Dropping them off tomorrow at a tint shop.

Of course, I have to get the dash put back in before windshield install, but sticking to my plan to get all electrical hooked up and debugged before it goes it.

I cannot stress enough how much easier it is to do wiring not having to crawl under the dash.
Unorthodox? maybe.. But I am getting too old to play contortionist under a dash these days. And I am FAT.

[JPSwapMohn]

Thanks for the great idea on using the door trim on the back for the ABS panels. I really like the clean line of it over the original bulkier metal strips. It's the little things/details that really make it. I would paint them black, but I am blacking out my rig.

The sound system looks legit. I like the tweeter on the top of door. Looks like a lot of thought put into the layout and components. I know nothing about audio stuff. Amps, crossovers, etc. are not things I have ever thought about. With all the sound deadening added, I bet it sounds like a studio in there while going down the interstate.

You continue to do great, thorough and well-designed work.

[cu4whln]

In Today's News . . .

" I like the tweeter on the top of door."

Looks like a lot of thought put into the layout and components.
I know nothing about audio stuff. Amps, crossovers, etc. are not things I have ever thought about. With all the sound deadening added, I bet it sounds like a studio in there while going down the interstate.

Thank JPSwapMohn { Explain your user name? }

As for the tweeter on the door... I hated to do it that way, but it really brings the sound up where it needs to be. The updated tweeter made me do MORE cutting ... ugh.

As for stereo "knowledge", I did a bunch of research and learned the basics.
Figure if the basics are right, it should present well.

As for quiet? Hmmm, I don't know. Not sure how it will be -
But need to get new tires, the MT/Rs are good off road, but not a quiet road tire!
( BTW - will be selling the tires and wheels when i can get some BFGs. They are out of stock. I have original chrome wheels and caps)

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As for todays activities, I worked on - you guessed it! Radio stuff.

Finishing up the hook ups in the doors. Got my crimper out for clean install

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Makes for a clean end to screw into the crossover screw downs.

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This is the original door routing piece. It doesn't hold both wires, so had to tape the second wire down to ensure it won't get pinched in the door.

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Started to play with possible amp mounting locations.
Try as I might, it seems that this space in the dash makes the most sense.
There is just not comfortable clearance under the new seats.

This is behind the grab handle area.
Plan is to glue the wood to the dash, and screw the amp to that.
"Goop" is wonderful stuff... but I will add a couple of supports as well.

Plan is to make a nesting area to locate the amp, then the screws should self align. Why? Because the mounting will be up in the dash and blind.

Well'll see if this is a good idea soon enough.

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[cu4whln]

In Today's News . . .

More spaghetti. Ugh, make it stop! LOL

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Every wire is marked and identified now... Even the unused and now dead wires.
So the NEXT guy won't curse the PO too much.

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WAIT ! WHAT !

Is that actual power on the radio head unit??
Well yes it is! FINALLY got everything hooked up and tested.
Was having some problems.. and it turns out my old radio was just not working right.
I thought it was me... Not this time ! New radio fixed the weirdness.

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So I think the stereo from hell is now ready to button up with the dash.

WHEW !

[cu4whln]

More Details . . .

So here is the back of the dash... Made an amp mount

Note the locator tabs to make it easier to install blindly when it's up under the dash when it's installed.
I added some large washers to help spread the grab handle loads.

Gooped in place - and YES, it is strong enough to hold the amp.

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What is this?

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I am painting the radio surround, ash tray, and clock trim the same color as the cluster I built up.
Want some contrast in the dash, not just black.

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Making progress . . .

Have the graphics being made - and have a date to install at the end of the month!

Still waiting on the tint place.
Worried, it's been 4 days.. no word.
Seems like clean, flat glass would go very quickly??

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[SJTD]

That's how I did mine and it did go very quickly. Even for a guy who'd never done it before. Hint.

Took me longer to make sure the glass was clean.

[rang-a-stang]

I have tinted some windows, too. Flat glass is stupid easy to tint. Especially when you have it out like you do. All you need is soapy water, small squegee, and a razor blade.

If you do decide to do it yourself, DO NOT BUY CHEAP TINT! The McParts store stuff is TRASH. Get quality 3M stuff with a lifetime warranty. There are soooo many ways tint can fail and if you get the McParts store stuff, you will get to enjoy them all!

[JPSwapMohn]

The JPSwapMohn tag started on the LT websites and here. On a whim, I came up with Jeep Swap Mohn (Man). At the time, I was swapping the LT1 into the wagoneer and it offered some clarification on the camero and impala sites. I also had 6 jeeps in the garage and driveway.

It abbreviated down to jpswapmohn. Now it is what I use on forums and have a couple of email addresses with it.


It does cause some confusion as my name is nothing close to JP, but I have been conditioned to answer to it online.


I would never have thought to use Goop to hold something substantial in a vertical position. Good to know.


Have to ask.. are you already thinking about selling this rig as well? I seem to recall your intent at the beginning was to build this one for you, forever..


I am down to 3 jeeps and all have enough sentimental value that they will be with us until I am dust.

[cu4whln]

In Today's News . . .

The JPSwapMohn tag started on the LT websites and here. On a whim, I came up with Jeep Swap Mohn (Man).
It abbreviated down to jpswapmohn. Now it is what I use on forums and have a couple of email addresses with it.
I would never have thought to use Goop to hold something substantial in a vertical position. Good to know.


Have to ask.. are you already thinking about selling this rig as well? I seem to recall your intent at the beginning was to build this one for you, forever..

Ahh! Always wondered about your sig.
Thanks ! I always smile when I read your sig quote : "... one day".. lol

As for Goop - We use it on aircraft and race cars... it does hold up.

NOT selling this one! It's a retirement road trip Jeep for us...

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They finally got the rear glass done.
I picked it up and like the tint.
It will look good with the black out treatment on a Chief package.

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Rear subwoofer project.
This is part of the stereo, but a big project in itself.
Had the box roughed in, but got the router out and rounded the edges so it will look better and take the interior vinyl on the edges.
Then drilled and mounted the speaker and amp stuff.
Small steps . . . I am NOT a woodworker!

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Since it will be some time before I get the interior done, I didn't want to look at the dirty plywood.
Had an old can of black paint, so sprayed it on so it will blend in with the rest of the unfinished interior!
Not very pretty, but better than the bare wood!

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The original powered sub came in an enclosure and the wires were soldered on full time.
Had to make some wiring mods to make it removable for the new custom box and installation. Added bullet connectors to speaker / amp connection.
Also added some Poly Fill to help dampen the speaker - helps the sound so I read.

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AND . . .
Project subwoofer is "complete" and functioning.
Note the power light is on !
I will say, this really has added a lot of "depth" to the sound system.
Overall, it has a crystal clear sound and solid bass performance.
BUT - Thank God it's done! This stereo stuff took a lot of time and effort.
Now I can move onto other "real" assembly stuff!

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Next up... getting the dash assembled and installed ! Woot !!

[cu4whln]

I have tinted some windows, too. Flat glass is stupid easy to tint. Especially when you have it out like you do. All you need is soapy water, small squegee, and a razor blade.

If you do decide to do it yourself, DO NOT BUY CHEAP TINT! The McParts store stuff is TRASH. Get quality 3M stuff with a lifetime warranty. There are soooo many ways tint can fail and if you get the McParts store stuff, you will get to enjoy them all!

SSTD " That's how I did mine and it did go very quickly. Even for a guy who'd never done it before. Hint.

Took me longer to make sure the glass was clean."

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I wimped out - had the pros do it the tint.

They use the right stuff, and I didn't want to risk it messing up after the windows are reinstalled.

[cu4whln]

In Today's News . . .

Starting to prep the dash for install...

Installed some of the switches and such into the dash.

Cleaned up the rust on the park brake assembly. ( Wire brushed it )
Then sprayed the rust inhibitor. Next will be a coat of Semi-Glass black.

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Next up was the top of dash attaching hardware.
As you can see, some of the clips and bolts are pretty ugly.
I have extras, so picked the "best" ones, and cleaned them up.

Now, no sandblaster here, so I took the red neck approach.
Put the parts into a baggie, then sprayed a serious rust penetrate into the baggie. Then let it sit for an hour or so.

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Cleaned them up with a rag and degreased them.
Then : Used the rust preventative paint again to slow down any future corrosion.
Nobody will ever see these parts again most likely, but I know it's in there !

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These are the foam gaskets that go between the dash and the body at the ends.
I was careful and able to remove them relatively intact.

First up - Clean the embedded rust off the foam. Light brushing with a soft brush.

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These had sticky on one side and were on the body before dash install.
So, added some spray adhesive to reattach them to the body.

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Here is the pass side dash mount.. there are 2 bolts on each end of the body.
The cleaned up gasket is now "glued" in place.
You can see the 2 bolt holes in the openings.

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Got the dash pad down and washed it very thoroughly.
Then I wiped it down with grease remover - then SEM paint prep.
Tomorrow, I plan to go to Painters Supply to get some black SEM "Dye"

While the dash pad is in great shape, figure i will make it look "New"

[cu4whln]

In Today's News . . .

In need of the center strip that holds the headliner up in place. Joins the 2 halves together.

I have the metal piece, but need the plastic part that snaps onto it. Mine is all broken up. ANYBODY ??

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[cu4whln]

More Details . . .

Got the dash pad "Dyed" ... It's ready for install.

This is backside where I removed the crumbling foam.
I got some speaker fabric and glued it on.
This will keep anything from getting down into the speaker.. just in case.
I did this since the speakers will not be serviceable without removing the windshield and dash - poor design! Dumb engineers! lol

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Covers these:

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More Fun-N-Games.... Let the games begin!

Began stripping the clear coat off my wheels.
Rims are in great shape, but the 45 yr old clear coat is a bit cloudy

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The new style aircraft stripper is about useless compared to the old stuff. Thank you Uncle Sam. UGH The government is always so helpful.

BUT - my buddy had some old style paint stripper lying around.. gave it a try.
Basic equipment.
This stuff WILL burn you, wear gloves and eye protection!

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Old clear bubbling off . . .

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Wait, then scrubbed with brush.
Probably should have waited longer, but oh well.

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Rinse and repeat. This is NO FUN.

After I get one wheel sorta done, find one of my center caps.
Clean it up ...

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Decide to install it on the wheel.... Screws were still on there.


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ONE wheel down.. 4 more to go.... Sooo much fun.

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