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  • Anti-Freeze

    So my heater core on my Dodge finally gave up. It's brass but the radiator is aluminum. Seems to have a lot of corrosion at the tube ends.

    Any thoughts on what to use?

    I've always used "green" Prestone. I think I'll use the stuff specified for VW's next time. I'd like to not to have to change that monstrous thing in the future.
    Sic friatur crustulum

    '84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.

  • #2
    We used the non-toxic Prestone stuff for a long time, but then a) it got expensive, and b) we moved north, making that stuff not rated to a low enough temperature.

    Other than just buying the straight stuff and adding your own water (vs. the premixed stuff) I don't have any recommendations.

    Oh, you may not want to put the dash all of the way back together just yet--drive it for a week or two and make sure the heater core doesn't blow again right away...on the '71 I wound up doing three or four in a month before I finally got one that's been ok (knock on wood).
    Current Rig:
    '71 Wagoneer (DD)
    B350/TH400/D20
    open knuckle D44 front (disc brakes)
    6-lug conversion rear
    http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showt...79#post1734879

    Previous Rig:
    Tan '88 Grand Wagoneer
    .030 over 401, TBI, headers
    3" exhaust
    31x10.5s
    2" rear lift blocks
    custom headliner
    http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showt...77#post1734777

    "The engineering side of me says that it's more than strong enough. The redneck side of me says that it's going to fall apart and I need to beef it up."--somebody I know

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    • #3
      Yeah, I'm not pleased with the movable tubes. They make installation easier but add two leak points. I plan to pressure check them once the core is in but it won't be hot. Have to look over what It'll take to run the motor with the dash hanging out.
      Sic friatur crustulum

      '84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.

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      • #4
        I don't have much to add. I did buy the universal stuff concentrate from Vatozone for my XJ and my son's Ranger recently. It has a really good warranty and they swear you can use it almost anyway. My XJ has not frozen in Boise (temp been down in the high teens) and my son is camping in Mammoth right now in his 86 Ranger (temps in the single digits) and he has not frozen.
        Chuck McTruck 71 J4000
        (Chuck McTruck Build Thread)
        79 Cherokee Chief (SOLD, goodbye old buddy)
        (Cherokee Build Thread)
        11 Nissan Pathfinder Silver Edition 4x4
        09 Mazdaspeed3 Grand Touring
        00 Baby Cherokee

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        • #5
          There are around eight (or more) different types of anti-freeze on the market now. I would visit the Prestone and Zerex web sites, and find the one that matches your Dodge recommendations. All the manufacturers have their own spec and it's possible to screw things up with the wrong one. It ain't like the good old days.
          Cliff Danley
          1977 Cherokee S

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          • #6
            It is funny how antifreeze and coolant are now considered the same. Back in my day “coolant” was what the manufacturer indicated to install in your system, typically a 50/50 mix of water and “antifreeze”

            Just one more thing to add to the plethora of confusion these days. There must be some agenda behind it. I suppose if one “follows the money” they will find the reason.
            FSJ Hybrid build thread: http://www.shopfloortalk.com/forums/...ad.php?t=43332
            We are Borg, but we don't know it yet.
            We are being assimilated but we don't know it yet.
            Resistance is not futile yet.
            Are you and your children connected yet?

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            • #7
              I don't really have any valuable feedback on the coolant thing. But have you been to the Dodge based "Turbo diesel register" ? That site was voted best resource for Dodges and diesels on the internet a while back. I have a 01 3500 dually I haul a camper with and I have had some goofy issues (dead pedal) I was able to work through with their help. I also have a cracked dash replacement in front of me. And I was considering a heater core replacement when I do that. I guess I am assuming you have a diesel and not a gas motor. But still having a look at the site and searching coolant stuff might help. Lots of knowledge there.
              I always joke about having an amazing Cummings motor but it unfortunately has a Dodge wrapped around it...
              -----------------------
              Am I done yet?

              Holy Moly, I am done.....

              Most users ever online was 656, 06-30-2007 at 09:50 PM.
              I was there! Still waiting for my Tee shirt...

              1969 1414X Wag,
              71 J4000 Rang-A-Stangs next project!!

              Building a m715 over at the m715zone
              Beloved wife Elizabeth Ann Temple Murdered by covid on Oct 19th 2021

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              • #8
                Seems the VW stuff needs to be in a sealed system so that's out.

                I think I've perused the TD Register site but I'll check it out. I seem to always ask these type of questions here first. There are people I respect here while those on other sites are unknowns.

                I agree with the Cummins sentiment. That's mainly why I bought the Dodge. Also it was the only short bed, 6 cyl, Diesel, 4WD, stick available. Maybe still is. Maybe isn't anymore? Doesn't matter since I have no interest in a new one though the newer Cummins are a lot quieter.
                Sic friatur crustulum

                '84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.

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