D.I.Y Throttle body injection write up (With pics!!!!) and this is no hoax (Part 2)

[Wagoneerlover]

Updated 9/9/07


For those of you who are reading this for the first time, please see the fuel injection write up part 1 in the tech archives as this is a continuation of that article.

Hello again everyone (Sorry for not finishing this up but I got tied up in some other things. I am almost done with this write up and will finally finish it now. I know that many of you are waiting for it.)

Please note I will finish the write up this week as I finally have time!!




Remember that the line coming from the fuel pump is the sending line. The line on the other side of the throttle body on the passenger side is the return line port. Make sure that you run a return line. The return line needs to run from the throttle body all the way back to your fuel tank. The sending unit on the tank has ports for both a send line and a return line. The larger port is for the send line and the smaller port is for the return line. If you have an older rig that doesn’t have a port for a return line you can drill your own in the sending unit and simply stick a tube in it for the fuel return line to connect to (Or you could adapt it to a later model rig sending unit with a return line port on it.) (Another option is to swap in the newer tank of your choice that has provisions for a return line and send line. (Many have swapped in GM, Ford, Chrycho or aftermarket tanks, just keep in mind if you dont have a return line you will still need to install one even if you install a different tank, thing is with a different tank you will also need to install a new send line or lengthen the existing one if the tank isnt close to the stock setup) (Its really up to you but you need a return line in there). As for what lines to use? The stock lines can and will work with this modification. Make sure to pay special attention to them. If your lines are rusted and old and worn and look like they will burst at any minute it is simply better to just replace them and bend new ones. I personally used 3/8 inch stainless steel for the return line and the send line. 3/8inch will run anything that you install, and running clean and new stainless steel ensured that I wont have any trouble in the future. Lastly all the shops I went into had 3/8 inch readily available on the shelves as it is readily available and the other sizes are sizes that they are trying to migrate away from in the future. Finally to finish off the fuel section of your project you will want to remove your stock mechanical fuel pump. Remove the lines that go to the stock mechanical fuel pump on the front of the engine and remove the fuel pump. Take the fuel pump blockoff plate that you purchased and get ready to install it. Make sure to install a gasket before installing the blockoff plate and re-use the bolts that held the mechanical fuel pump in place to install it. its pretty self explanatory and the hole that once housed your mechanical fuel pump will be closed off once and for all. You may set the lines off to the side that used to run to the pump, they will either need to be removed later or re-routed to your throttle body. After installing your fuel pump, and block off plate and getting your lines hooked into the throttle body it is now time to move to the wiring phase. The mechanical side of things is done. Other than the sensors, you will not need to connect anymore components. I will detail how to connect all the sensors below and where to connect them. Below you will note some photos of how I connected the GM throttle body to the new fuel lines. The fittings on the throttle body are an odd size and I can assure you that you will need to get some type of adapter or fittings to go in there. I purchased some fittings that adapted the gm fittings to 6-an fittings. I then connected these fittings to a 45 degree elbow adapter. Take note in the photos below.




Connecting your GM sensors to your AMC engine

Connecting the sensors is quite easy and you are almost finished with the mechanical side of things. The sensors, give the GM computer information on the engine operating conditions and they should not be omitted. While some of the sensors can be removed or omitted. It is generally best to run all of them. One example of this would be running the engine without an oxygen sensor. It can be done but your computer loses some of its functionality which makes the injection system so attractive. Without this sensor your engine will stay in open loop mode. I shall now detail each sensor and explain where they go and give some ideas on where to install them. Some of the sensors will need to be connected to the engine, while others need to be installed in the throttle body, exhaust or even on the firewall or on mounts.


Oxygen sensor - I chose to install the oxygen sensor first as it is the only sensor which requires work outside of typical hand tools to install. As you may remember from the first article, you needed to have an oxygen sensor bung installed in your exhaust pipe. This bung will give you the screw port which the oxgen sensor needs in order to be screwed into the exhaust. There are a few mounting options when mounting your oxygen sensor. You may mount your sensor in the exhaust y pipe. If you mount it here try to mount it up as high as possible. Some have mounted the oxygen sensor in the exhaust manifolds. I didnt do this as I didnt feel like pulling them off in order to mount the oxygen sensor bung. Once you have welded the oxygen sensor bung in you may proceed to installing the oxygen sensor. Remember if you do not have the necessary tools or are not good with welding then you may take it to an exhaust shop and they can weld it in for you. I purchased my own bung and it only cost me 50 bucks to have the bung welded in. (If I had used their bung it would have cost me 150 bucks). I got my bung for 25 bucks so I spent a total of 75 dollars on this not including the sensor. Once you have installed the oxygen sensor bung, simply take the oxygen sensor and screw it in. If you have decided to get this installed before you begin the project you can actually go ahead and install the oxygen sensor, or you can install a plug that screws into the threads. If you do decide to install the sensor before the project, make sure that you tie up the wires so that they do not get damaged. Once you have the bung installed you can also determine which oxygen sensor you want to go with. The two wire, three wire, wide band etc.


Vehicle speed sensor Option 1. - The vehicle speed sensor is a sensor which also requires thought and some consideration before making a final decision. It is possible to retain the stock VSS from your wagoneer or J-truck assuming it has one. Check the end of your speedometer cable and you will notice a little box type thing with two wires coming off of it. This is the wagoneer/j truck vss. The wagoneer vss is an 8-pole vss and the stock chevy computer uses information from 2 and 4 pole vss's which are in the chevy trucks and cars. If you decide to retain your stock vss then you have nothing more to think about here. Your next step regarding the vss will be wiring it in and lastly getting the Chevy computer to convert the 8 pole information into useable data.
Option 2. For those who wish to convert to the chevy vss the vss is contained on the speedometer cable. In order to use it you must get the complete chevy speedometer cable. Simply take the chevy speedometer cable and remove your old waggy speedo cable. Install the new speedo cable. The connector for the speedo cable should be on the transfer case. Remove the old one and run the new cable up to the waggy speedometer.
Option 3. There are some who retain the stock waggy vss for whatever reason they may want. I think that some retain it so that they dont have to make adjustments to the cruise control system if possible. The waggy 8-pole vss does control cruise control functions so by removing it you may have to play with the cruise control box assuming you dont loose functionality altogether. With this option you retain the stock waggy vss and to install an additonal electronic vss as well. There are many manufacturers that make them and this vss could be a 2 pole or 4 pole vss which could be used to control the gm computer and the waggy vss would still control cruise control functions.

Throttle Position sensor - This sensor is located on the GM throttle body itself. If your Throttle body already has one on it leave it alone. If it isnt working properly or it is not adjusted properly then you should decide to adjust it from there. Otherwise dont give yourself a headache with this as you need to adjust it and set it properly for it to work right. It is located on the side of the Throttle body unit. Pictured below is the Throttle position sensor mounted on the throttle body. Also pictured is the IAT sensor which is also mounted on the Throttle body

[Bama Burden]

wow!

[pb]

Just an FYI, for the o2 bung, you can also cut off the ends of some spark plug antifoulers from the HELP section of the auto part store and weld those on. I think you need the 18mm size IIRC.

[Wagoneerlover]

Coolant temperature sensor - The coolant temperature sensor needs to be installed in the block up near the front of the manifold. Remember your old dual cto valve? Well you will actually be removing that valve as it is not necessary anymore when running throttle body injection. Remove the dual cto and install the coolant temperature sensor in the block where this item used to go. (Remove the dual cto that is near the distributor, not the one that is on the coolant passsage but the other one that is up front.) The coolant temperature sensor is pictured below mounted in the AMC engine!



Oxygen Sensor - I spoke about this in the first installment however, it will need to be installed in the exhaust system at some point or another. (See first installment for more details)



knock sensor - The knock sensor senses engine pinging and knocking and when it is detected the computer adjust timing to eliminate the issue. This sensor can be installed in a few places, however I feel that it is best to install it in the block. I installed mine in a port that was plugged, directly above the starter (AMC 360 engine). This happens to be the location where it is installed in Chevy engines that run TBI so why re-invent the wheel. Others have mounted it on the frame rail or on the firwall and it can detect pinging there too, however I dont think it is as accurate. (Have not tested it so cannot tell you.) In order to install this sensor simply remove the plug and thred the sensor into the hole that is left over after removing the plug (Do not remove the block drain plugs they are the wrong plugs and they are not threaded. Remember that the actual sensor head is what you will be using to tighten it into the hole so dont go crazy with the tourque wrench or if you are old fashioned and you can bench press 500 pounds dont overdo it on the sensor.! (Pictured below is the sensor mounted on the AMC block.)





MAP sensor - The manifold absolute pressure sensor is another important sensor. This sensor, can be mounted in many places, however it is not recomended that you mount it more than 12 inches from the actual throttle body as a hard emissions line needs to be connected to it and when it is too far away the readings are not accurate. (people have mounted it farther away just be forwarned!) I mounted mine on a stock chevy mount that is bolted to the engine near the throttle body. I found a bolt hole on the AMC engine that would fit and bolted it there and connected the map sensor just like it was connected on the stock chevy engine. Others have mounted it on the firewall behind the throttle body. (Just bear in mind that it is not recommended that you mount it more than 12 inches from the throttle body itself)

ESC control module - The electronic spark control module actually takes readings from the knock sensor and it uses this data to adjust timing by advancing or retarding ignition timing. Other data that it receives from other sensors also help it to determine if it should advance or retard timing. This can be mounted on the firewall or somewhere in the engine bay. I found a stock mount out of a chevy 350 that was bolted to the engine. I simply removed the bolt and found a mounting bolt on the AMC 360 where it could be mounted. It should be noted that the mount that I snagged from the chevy also has mounting ports for the EGR solenoid and the map sensor. It worked out great!

EGR solenoid. - This solenoid controls when the EGR valve is activated and when it gets vacuum etc. Of course this should be mounted close to the egr valve as you will need to run a line from it to the egr valve and from this valve to the front of the Throttle body. Check around for the stock chevy mount. This stock mount mounts the egr solenoid, the map sensor and the esc module.

Fuel pump relay - very important for the system, it actually energizes the fuel pump when you turn the key on. It is mounted in the engine bay on the stock chevy vehicle and it will also need to be mounted somewhere in your stock rig. Pick a location on the firewall or on the tire well (inside the engine bay) and mount it. Please bear in mind that there is a wire harness connection for this so if you mount it in some off the wall spot you may need to lengthen your harness to get to it. Simply measure out things and get a general idea of how far your cable stretches (Conector for it) and mount it in a place that the connector can reach to. Pictured below is the fuel pump relay. (Note early style TBI harnesses and harnesses that come from vehicles equipped with the TH400 trnas will have two of these. One is for the fuel pump and one is for the Trans kickdown control?? I know it does some transmission function I just cannot remember what.)


Park/Neutral solenoid - this is not to be mistaken with the Neutral safety switch. The two are different. The park Neutral solenoid is typically found on the underside of a shifter (Aftermarket) you will need to wire it up to the TBI (There are wires for it on the stock harness) You can bypass it and run without it by wiring together the wires that normally would go to the solenoid however you lose some functionality (By sticking them together the computer thinks that the vehicle is in park and it will lessen performance. it will run but it wont run optimally. Anyway you will need to find one and install it in the rig and wire it in. (I found out a secret about these PM me if you want to know)!!!


Oil pressure switch - The stock oil pressure switch in our rigs will work fine. This needs to be connected as it is important (It can be bypassed but why do it?). All you need to do is remove the wiring from the old harness (Disconnect it you dont have to remove it) anyway, if it makes you feel better you can disconnect the stock switch and install the stock Chevy one if you want. doesnt matter either way it will work.





Emissions equipment and sensors
(For those that want to run without you can but I wont tell you how)

Charcoal canister - The charcoal canister is part of the emmissions system in the jeep and in the Chevy tbi vehicle. You may retain your stock canister or you may use the chevy canister. It doesnt matter. The difference in the two is this. If you use the stock jeep canister you will use three of the ports and you will need to cap off the fourth port. If you use the chevy canister you have three ports there and all ports will be used, yet the port that you plug the egr valve into will need to have an adapter installed so that the smaller line can go into the larger port. Secondly the chevy canister is much larger so it takes more space and it will sit up higher. (Some dont like the look of the higher sitting canister) I retained my stock canister and simply capped off the fourth unused port (Note that this port is used for a stock amc 360/401 with carbueration so make sure to trace the line and remove it. See the emissisons vacuum line section further along in the article to find out which line to remove)

A.I.R. diverter valve - the chevy diverter valve functions the same way as the waggy valve. the only difference is that the chevy valve is controlled by vacuum and by the chevy computer and the waggy valve is controlled by vacuum and the ported vacuum switches mounted on the engine. You can mount this wherever you like as long as you can route the lines to the proper places. I mounted mine in the same location as the stock waggy vavle. It doesnt have the same type of mount so you have to be creative to mount it. The valves purpose is to inject oxygen into the exhaust, the catalytic converter or into the air depending on various engine operating conditions. It is important that when you snag this part you take note of where each port leads to. If you connect the port that leads to the catalytic converter to the hose that leads to the exhaust manifold than obviously the valve will divert air to the wrong place at the wrong time. (Not good!)

EGR valve - The egr valve that comes with the stock waggy should be retained. there is a port on the front of the TBI that you will need to reconnect the EGR valve to. I shall detail this more a little later. (you may be able to use the gm egr valve but I am not sure)



Ok now that you have all of your sensors mounted and all of your mechanical components mounted, its time to move on to the fun part of this all. The electrical wiring phase of the project!!

[Wagoneerlover]

The electrical wiring phase of the project can become the most difficult part of the project. While it is time consuming there are steps that you can take to at least help to make the wiring phase go more smoothly and help you to remain sane while going through the process. Below I have listed a few of the steps that you want to take in order to make the wiring process more efficient and easy.




Tips for getting started on your wiring!!!

1. Before digging into the wiring be it a new harness or a junkyard harness make sure that you have complete wiring diagrams for that particular harness. You will also need FSJ wiring diagrams.

2. Take your wiring diagrams and have them blown up or at least have a notebook page sized copy that you can have beside you if possible (if not whatever size you have available will do.

3. Make several copies of both the FSJ diagrams and the GM diagrams. I lost many copies and so much grime grease and dirt covered the copies I had beside my rig that I needed new ones periodically.


4 look over and over your wiring diagrams and understand them, if you cannot read a wiring diagram and understand it thoroughly then get help from a neighbor, a best friend or a fellow fsjeeper that understands them.




Wiring up the Injection!

It is always a good idea to take your harness and completely lay it out on the garage floor or a table to make sure that you know where everything goes. While the harness is laid out take the time to familiarize yourself with all the connectors. Look at each one and check it against the diagrams (If it is detailed enough to show connectors) and take sticky pads or some small pieces of tape or what have you and make sure you label each connector. (If you didnt do so when in the junkyard, hopefully you did) secondly while the harness is on the ground you can begin to kind of chart out in your mind where things will go and how they will be routed.

well lets dig into the real work of the wiring now that these things have been done.

The first thing that you want to do is to locate a place in your rig that you feel is a nice location for the computer to be mounted. There are many ideas on this and many have mounted it in various locations I have seen some rigs with it mounted in the glove box, others with it under the dash near the steering wheel, some mount it near the kick panels, or even under the front seats. Wherever you choose to mount yours make sure that the computer is secured tightly. (Don't secure it yet but just have some type of straps or mounts in mind that will hold it in place). Once you have decided on a location just lay the computer in that vicinity loosly (You will need it to be loose as you will need to keep on tuning and refining the chip as you go along. If the computer is mounted in a place that is easily accessible and you want to mount it go ahead. However if you are planning on mounting it in a place that is a PITA to get it in and out of then dont mount it just yet. keep it out somewhere so taht you can refine and tune later. you can mount it after you feel you have tweaked it to your standards.)


2. the next step might be a little scary but with some careful planning you can do it. This step involves cutting a hole in the firewall in order to run the TBI harness through in order to connect it to the computer. You will also be running a few other wires through the hole as well for connection. Measure the grommet that is a few inches from the TBI computer connector. There are two connectors that connect to the computer one connector should be 24 pin and the other is a 32 pin connector. Measure this grommet well as you will need to take a drill, or saw or whatever tool you feel comfortable with. Carefully plan out where you want to make a hole in the firewall. You will be running the wiring harness through the firewall and into the vehicle. This harness needs to run to the throttle body computer. So in planning try to find a location which will provide the wiring the shortest route to the computer. Of course be careful in drilling or cutting your hole in the firewall. carefully plan out where you plan to drill the hole and make sure to double check under the dash to make sure that you are not drilling through some object. Trust me if you go drilling blindly you have a good chance of drilling into something you dont want to damage in the interior of the FSJ. Also be aware of the fact that the wiper arm for the wiper blades is inside of the cab on FSJ's turn on your wipers and see where the arm extends to before cutting. Otherwise you might damage or sever the wiper arm thus disabling your wiper blades. It should be noted that some have found existing holes on the firewall such as the one near the pwoer brake booster. They have used these existing holes to run the gm harness through but this often requires one to lengthen or possibly shorten their harness. This is fine I cut my own hole but whichever method works best for you is the method you should chose. Additionally you may have to widen the hole in the existing grommet so that the stock jeep harness and the new chevy wires can run through together.


3. Well now is the time for the cutting. after drilling the hole find the connections that lead to the TBI computer. You also want to find the wire that runs to the check engine light and the wires that runs to the park/neutral solenoid (Not the park/neutral switch they are different do not confuse them or connect your wiring to the park switch on the AMC 727 trans). After locating these wires (Hopefully you labeled them) Then take the complete TBI harness and lay it out on top of your AMC engine in the engine bay. Take care to try to lay the connectors at least roughly in the vicinity that they will go in. and try not to tangle the wires up while doing so. Take the TBI computer wires, the check engine light wires, and the park neutral switch wires and run them through the firewall and into the cab. (you may also need to locate the wire for the computer power and run it through as well. This wire is typically near the computer connector somewhere. It will need to be connected to a switched power source later. Note that some like to connect it to a source in the engine bay and some connect it to a source inside the cab, it doesn't matter as long as its connected to a switched source. More on that later)

[Wagoneerlover]

4. the placement of your computer will dictate a lot of what will need to happen next. You don't have to connect the connector to the computer yet, however make sure that the wiring is running through the firewall without any restrictions and that it is not tangled on anything inside of the cab or it is not caught on anything or in a position where it can get frayed or cut by moving parts or charred in any way. Secondly, make sure that the harness has some slack so that it can move a little and is not so tight that if the vehicle moves it will snap.

Now is the relatively easy part. Connecting the connectors!! (when making connections, if any wires are not long enough now is the time to find out as you can always add additional wiring to any wires by simply cutting and soldering the additional lengths necessary.) If the wires are not long enough or if it is just making it don't be afraid to lengthen it. Better to do so now than to stretch the wire and have it snap at a critical time (Offroading or going down the highway on your long distance trip)

(Please note... I have listed the color of the wires on each connector beside each paragraph and how many pins the connector should have. These colors are the colors that come with the Stock gm harness and they may vary slightly but not much)

5. Injector connectors - 2 pins each connector (connector 1 - 2 wires Blue, Red (Connector 2 2 wires White, Light Green ) The first connection that I made was the connection to the actual throttle body itself. There are two connectors for the injectors. These connectors are interchangeable and it doesn't matter what injector they connect to. Look at the throttle body and you will notice a grommet in the front remove this and slide the new grommet on that is right below the injector connectors. connect the connectors and give the wires a little slack so that the wiring is not too tight. Pictured below are the two injectors with the connectors connected. (Either connector can go to either injector it doesnt matter)


6. Throttle Position Sensor connector - 3 pins (wires Gray, Black, Dark Blue)


( ) sensor. these sensors are both located on the throttle body. make sure to route the wires in a way that they will not be too tight and the wires wont be stretched, again with all of these wires if they are not long enough simply add more wire and solder and shrinkwrap the connections.

7. Connect the coolant temperature sensor. It should be mounted on the front of the engine where the Dual CTO used to be. Plug this two prong connector in.

8. Plug in the wiring from your distributor (doesnt matter if the ignition module is internal or external you should still have wires that will need to be plugged into the TBI harness).

9. Plug in the wires for the Injectors themselves. In order to connect these two wires you will need to remove the air cleaner spacer. Remove it and you will see a rubber grommet . Slide the old one off and slide the new one in. The new one will be a few inches below the injector connectors. it doesnt matter which connector goes to which injector with TBI.

10. Connect the wiring for the EGR valve solenoid. This connector is a two pin connector and it should be as follows below.

11. make the connection between the Map sensor. The connector should hopefully be somewhere near wherever you mounted this item. if not extend it.

12. Connect the ESC module. It should be a weird shaped long connector with about 11 pins or so. Connect it and keep moving.

13. Move on to the engine ground wire. There should be two wires connected two a hook type connector. These wires are both black and they serve as the TBI wiring grounds. (Do not forget them!!!) Find them and connect them to the firewall or somewhere on the body or frame.

14. Connect the knock sensor wiring. You may have to add additional wires to this connector as mine was not long enough. If so no problem just solder, splice and shrink wrap the necessary connections and keep going. (Hopefully you remember where you decided to mount the knock sensor!)

15. Next, connect the two connectors that go to the starter solenoid on the starter. These connectors should have round hook type connectors and there is one that goes to the large terminal on the starter and one that goes to the small terminal on the starter. (One has a larger terminal and the other has a smaller connector.) connect these and move on. (They are pictured below connected to a the solenoid on a later model rig)


16. Connect the wiring for the VSS (Vehicle speed sensor.) It is a brown wire and it needs to be connected to one of the wires coming off the VSS on your speedometer cable. Depending on which VSS you decided to go with you may or may not need to do additional things on the programming side.

17. Connect the oxygen sensor wiring. If you have decided to go with the one wire sensor you simply just have to plug the wire up there is nothing more required. However if you decided to go with a two wire, three wire, four wire, or wideband oxygen sensor then you will need to do some additional wiring and add wires and possibly a computer.

18. Connect the wiring for the air diverter valve If you chose to install the air diverter valve then make sure to connect the necessary wires. It should be a two plug wire which connects to this valve.

19. you will notice some loose wires which are meant to be connected to the transmission. These wires are for the 700-r4 and they control lock up function. If you are not using the 700r4 then simply tie these off and leave them off to the side. (It should be noted that if you do not plan on using this for transmission lock up control that it may be used for something else. There are some out there who have been able to use these wires to activate other things/other purposes.)

20. connect the fuel pump wiring. From the fuel pump relay you should notice a power wire running off of it. This wire is brown and white and it is the power wire for the fuel pump. The fuel pump actually will require two wires a ground wire and this wire for power. If I have to tell you how to run a ground wiire from the fuel pump then maybe you should consider not doing this project. (note if you have not mounted the fuel pump relay then you definitely need to find a mounting spot for it somewhere. Again you may have to extend your wiring.)

21. next you will need to connect the power wire for the ECM. This wire needs to be connected to a switched power source. You dont want your computer running in all positions so connect it to a wire that is hot in the on run and start positions. or whatever positions you want the computer to be active in. Obviously you dont want the computer to run in all positions including accessory, but then again to each his own so maybe you do. Some connect this wire to a wire in the engine bay, others connect it to a wire inside the cab or to the fuse block, it doesnt matter where as long as its connected. Otherwise without power going to the ECM your vehicle will not start!

22. Air conditioning wire - There is a green and white wire which will need to be connected to the A/C system. this wire lets the computer know to set the vehicle idle speed higher when running a/c. It should be noted that in stock GM systems this runs to a relay first then the relay has wires which connect to the compressor etc. If you didnt get the relay go get it and connect it accordingly.

23. Neutral start switch wires -Do not connect these wires to the nuetral start solenoid on our rigs (maybe vice versa) if you do not have a floor shifter of some type which has the nuetral start switch then just take these two wires and connect them together. And call it a day.

24. Oil pressure switch wiring - Again these wires may or may not need to be connected. There are some who retain their stock oil pressure switch wiring and some who use the new wiring. there are arguments on both sides of the fence. Should you chose not to connect them then retain your stock wires and just tape these off. If you do decide to go with them, then remove your stock wiring and splice these wires in place or connect them if they have the proper connector. You should however be aware of this. The stock GM system uses the oil pressure switch during starting and operation. If you do not connect it your vehicle will not start. There is a way to bypass this in the computer but you will need to go into the computer and change some settings. (I connected mine because I figure if it aint broke then don't fix it, besides obviously GM had a purpose for setting it up this way.)

25. Fan Control (Optional) This was an optional wire on some systems and standard on others. if your harness has control for an electric fan then great!! if so this wire is to be connected to the aftermarket or swap in electric fan that you may have installed. By using this you can go into the computer and have the computer control the fan on/off mode and what temp it will shut on and off.

[Wagoneerlover]

26. ECU - Connect the computer!! By now you should have already determined a permanent or at least semi permanent mounting point for the computer. The computer actually has two connectors. Plug in both connectors and you are almost ready to go and to finish off the project.

27. Check engine light. - There should be some wires from the stock connector that ran to the check engine light. Simply get an LED light an existing light that you have modified or whatever you like as long as it lights up. Wire the wire from the stock check engine light to this wire. (A check engine light is important for many reasons. If for some reason the computer detects an error the light will light up letting you know that something is wrong with the system. Additionally many states require it for emmisions even on a retrofit and if you go through the emmissions test without it you fail (Even if the vehicle passes with flying colors) Note not all states follow that law, but Maryland and a few others do!)

28. ALDL cable - This is also a vital part of the harness. This is your tap into the computer. When you need to pull trouble codes, or perform other task this cable is where it will need to be done. Mount it in a location where it is accessible without removing the entire dash to get to it. When a mechanic needs to trouble shoot your system this is the first thing they will look for so that they can get error messages. (Break down in the middle of nowhere and if you have this cable buried under the dash to a point where you have to remove the dash to get it you will be using many curse words and you will probably invent some too!!)



This should complete the wiring phase of the project. Now that you have everything connected, make sure you go back and secure the wiring harness, Use wiring loom, and make sure that you route the harness through the engine compartment and mount it or attach it to some point or another. Don't just leave the harness laying around on top of the engine or other components. Lastly don't forget to connect the computer connector. You should have everything wired up by now and everything should be connected. If something is not connected at this point, go back and figure out where it goes and connect it!

[backpack09]

Can we get this added to the Archive Section as a stickey?