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Sacreligious WT Chief converted to the Dark and smokey side Cummins 4bta
little irked with my self today. couldnt get around to packing the mounts over to a freinds house to get them welded. i have no 220 hookups so i packed em into my oven turned it upto 550 degrees and preheated the metal then hit it with the 110 hopefully i got enough penetration. witht eh 110 on .035 wire 3 wire speed and cranked to the max to weld the 1/4" plate. if not i can always make new mounts i'll keep my eyes on em to see if there are any cracks that develop over time.
anyways, welded the mounts and re installed the motor in the process smacked the heater box gotta love fiber glass. looks like i'll be shopping for an old all metal heater box.. probably a good thing because unfortunately the darned motor settled and shifted to the passenger side a 1/2" of which i can probably take 1/4" of that out ........ i moved the mounts up 1/2" and in doing so it shifted things closer to the heater box.
oh well im pretty happy with the clearances all around..
FYI oil pan drain plu to pinion webbing 1-1/2- 1-3/4" clearance verticle from the top of the webbing..
Anyways motor is mounted securely now and i dont plan on another removal unless something catostrophic happens
pictures
one final look around
alot bigger than an AMC luk clutch
note the "custom" exhaust plate. these turbos use v bands to clamp the exhasut on. conveniently i had a old t-14 bearing spacer from the old AA chevy to t-14 adapter kits. it just happens to be 4" in diameter with the perfect lip to seat up on the back of the turbo and for the v band to clamp onto. now i can just weld 3" pipe to the back of it and go.
what the hell was i thinking trying to do this at 9 pm by myself on a sunday night .....
Sewer pipe is cheap
im looking for the 2-1/2" pressurized intercooler tube to travel over the top of the 3" fresh air intake. it'll be tight but should give me a better air intake angle pointing back towards the heater box where i will be putting the air filter
hooked up fuel lines, power steering lines filled the engine with fluids so now it comes down to waitng for the radiator and doing some wiring.
I am running flared power steering connections so i took the stock oring ps pump piece out and inserted the flared one back into the 4bt pump. done deal. reused all my existing ps lines
Nothing sacreligious about what you are doing. You are just doing something that the factory should have done!
Preach it Brother!!
Bryan Smith
2017 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited
- 75th Anniversary Edition - 1941 Trim Package - Recon Green
1986 Jeep J20
- Super clean rig from the AZ/CA state line
1982 Jeep J10
- Has become a Long Term Project.
1981 Jeep J20
- Commercial flat bed - Lost in a Divorce --gone
1987 Jeep J20 Pioneer
- Former Rick Bielec aka Ricbee plow rig. Major rust!! --gone
no pictures today. doing a bunch of hose routing, rewiring and then oh yeah. the **** oil pan had a couple of small cracks or pin holes in it so after i filled it up with oil last night. thismorning i round 1.5 gallons of 15-40 on my garage. so i had to weld that up today also.
re routed battery cable to starter finished about 90% of the wiring under hood. messed with the brass fittings on the fuel return line what a PITA and sourced the fuel filter.
figuring next week will be spent messing with fuel tank and fuel lines. i hope to do the 42 gallon suburban tank but there also is a 30 gallon yukon tank that looks like a good contendet little narrower little shorter but also 1/2" deeper than the suburban tank. a mid 70's ford 38 gallon tank looks like a good choice also due to the fill neck and the vent location but the fuel pickup is no longer available and it is a goofy side mount so that could be a problem
hope to reseal all the cowl seems that i can and to do the roof plugs to get this son of a gun to quit leaking.
havent got to the hydraulic clutch yet but i did cut up the jeep radiator and figure out basically what i am going to need to do
rough wiring, no coolant or radiator yet fuel hoses into a 1 gallon jug and we have SMOKE
ALIVE.... ITS ALIVE hack hack cough hack ITS ALIVE "Ladies and gentlemen may I present for your intellectual and philosophical pleasure … the creature. "
Ok now i need to finish up all the other crap. mainly finding an intake grid heater and fabbing the intake tubing but she fired up naturally aspired.
HA 23 days start to smoke. by the end of december it will either drive out of the garage under its own power OR i'll be seved papers and still battling with it. not seriously but i have to hand it to my wife she is amazingly patient.
What are your plans for the air intake? With the way the plastic pipe is looping back, it looks like you are setting up for a snorkel.
using the sewer pipe as mock up, it is 4" OD so i could check clearance under the 2-1/2" pressurized tube going over it. i plan on getting some 4" ducting compressing it some and then routing it in that spot.
i am planning to put the air filter up on the fender right in front of the heater core and blower motor
like i noted backa page or tewo the objective is to get an efficient running and responsive (fairly clean at the tail pipe) 180-185hp / 425-430 ft/lbs if i can get it to 200/460 or 205/475 that would be better than expected
i am going to miss the 401 and the "what for" that you could pull on people when you opened up the 4bbls but not the sucking sound. or the constant gas stops
i am going to miss the 401 and the "what for" that you could pull on people when you opened up the 4bbls but not the sucking sound. or the constant gas stops
I think you'll be surprised with the power a 4BT is capable of. My bone stock one is rather peppy and it's at the bottom of the power curve.
I think you'll be surprised with the power a 4BT is capable of. My bone stock one is rather peppy and it's at the bottom of the power curve.
i have been thuroughly impressed with several stock 4bts that i have help install for buddies. and even a couple that they have turned up but i have never cranked on to where i have always felt the point is for balanced power, performance and operation.these little motors in stock form are super impressive but i am hoping to push the power curve outward and upward.
I just recently got my 03 dodge dialed to the point where if i roll into the throttle unless i load it up it burns clean and snaps to 40 psi with a big turbo. and it tows like a dream but then again upwards of 891 ft/lbs adn 437 hp tends to be right on the money but pulling a 8% grade for 7 miles at 60-65 mph with 16k in tow and egts not spiking is what i wanted. i can blacken an intersection if i lug it down and load it up but otherwise mild throttle control and it ramps up very nicely. my old twin turbo'd 12v ran like this 03 adn im hoping to get the 4bt somewhere in between with responsiveness which shouldnt be hard since it was snappy out of the box and big hp numbers 180hp is a 50% increase over stock without over burdening the ability of the package to support and cool it efficiently while towing. via the larger intercooler and turbo i hope to have very well balanced hp/torque numbers without the dull haze and or excessive black smoke and with controllable egts when towing. cake and ice cream too i know but i like pushing the envelope while getting the desired result is what i am after while all keeping the budget in somewhat of a reasonable range.
right now motor was 1800
added parts have amassed about 1281
i still need radiator fuel tank hydraulic clutch and throttle cable as well as misc crap so i am figuring another $1k in all that
radiator looking for a 3" thick cross flow radiator with 1-3/4 upper inlet on driver side and 2-1/4 or 2" on passenger side down low total dimensions measuring 19" high by 27" wide there is some plus and minus factor there i could go as big as 21"x28 " but things would be tight and the cooling would be unnecessary
would i have been better off selling the chief an buying a a 89-93 dodge with everything already to go. Yep better axles, better frame better horse power, more availability and less botty fab. BUT no satisfaction................ no class no style
now about that leaky cowl .... who's the bone head at kaiser and then amc who designed these darned body seals that leak so well
here is where my leak was and it was under all the body seam filler that was smeared around in there
thinking i can re weld the seem and the hole and then fromt he top use some henrys 208 since the cowl never gets overly hot or i'll just source some new seem filler. what ever i do thought he fender is coming off to get a full view of what i am up against
lower radiator hose location relative to the stock radiator with mounts cut and re welded
upper hose location
oil pan clearnance notice the sway bar is un hooked and laying down. i will probably put 2" or so spacers between the frame and sway bar to keep it and make things work
crappy pciture turn your head at an angle maybe you can make sense of it but it shows you the distance oil pan/ drain plug etc to teh webbing on the dana 44 plenty of room but still tight
doesnt show it well but the suspension fully compressed 4" and the pan jsut clears the webbing by 1/2" so there should be no contact issed what so ever
I get wet passenger floors every time it rains. Makes me wonder if mine isn't leaking in the same spot. I don't know if you've done anything with the floor, but the corner where the floor ramp up also has a mound of seam sealer. That was the only spot of rust on the floors on my Cherokee.
Pete
'55 Willys Wagon, the original FSJ
Sitting on a '77 Cherokee frame, Dodge D60's
Isuzu 6BD1, NV4500, NP241
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