It followed me home,

[scout4bta]

I decided not to grind the welds on the battery box and make it look pretty. The box is made from .062 sheet, the fender well is from .042-.030 depending on where you measure because of the uneven thickness from the stamping process. Welding the air box with .032 wire (mig) I was constantly blowing holes and having to back fill . It was a fiasco. On the battery box I used .023 wire.
I'd rather have strong welds for that 54 pound battery.

[scout4bta]

Cold Air Intake:



Looking from the front I may have to put a shield to keep the rain from getting into the air filter box.

[scout4bta]

The cold air intake for the airbox, that's a mock up. I haven't been able get back to it, Lots of yard work on the ranch this spring. The previous owners laid rock on 1/3 of the back yard and the rest of it is bare dirt. We live in the high desert (4200') where grass is not an option. So were "rocking" the rest of it amoung other things. Be back working on the Wagon soon.

[scout4bta]

The air box is mostly finished. Added an aluminum plate to the front of the air box to cover the factory oval for the 6B and change it to a 4.5" hole to accommodate the cold air intake tube. Had to modify the air box mount. Forget to leave room for the clip in the lower left of the picture. Added a small notch.

[Heep-J4000]

What is the reason that you didn't keep the oval and cut also a oval in the front!?

[scout4bta]

What is the reason that you didn't keep the oval and cut also a oval in the front!?

1. Mostly because I didn't think that the 4B required anymore air than a 4.5 dia" (114.3mm) pipe could deliver. And I'm not planning to increase the horse power so the extra air flow isn't needed.

2. Although I do like overkill and the oval would fit that requirement, But it would take a lot more sheet metal cutting/welding to fit the oval in.

[scout4bta]

The cold air intake tube was floating, it's secured now.

[scout4bta]

There's going to be a small delay due to finding some shiny speckles under the valve covers. Aluminum. I dumped the oil and saw more shiny speckles on the bottom of the drain pan, copper. Pulled the oil pan and the sump looks good, no copper speckles. Pulled the rear main cap, it shows normal wear. #4 rod bears show fatigue failure of the inserts, probably from lugging the engine. Both journals are OK. I suspect the copper in oil is coming from the front cam bearing, we'll see.

[rang-a-stang]

oooooohhhh crapppppp.......

[scout4bta]

The good news, After a visual inspection of the bearing journals, they all appear in excellent shape, including the cam. The cam bearing showed a little wear, replaced it. All of the crankshaft and rod bearings showed minor wear, replaced them. I'm planning to measure the journals for wear anyway but the 2-3" micrometer I bought arrived broken. Using the 2" standard it read 1.9750, off my .0250". So the engine will sit for another week waiting for the next new micrometer to arrive before I can start putting the engine back together. Except for the injection pump. I'm having to send it up to Phoenix to get it repaired, again. Who knows how that will go..

[scout4bta]

Have inspected the block, put in new rod and main bearings, did not find anything out of the ordinary. Replaced the cam bearing, thats where all the "speckles" came from. The cylinder bore is well within limits for continued use. Plenty of crosshatching in the cylinder, very little wear, hardly any ridge at the top.

Cleaning and inspecting the head is next.

[scout4bta]

Decided to pull the pistons. The top ring on #2 was caked in carbon. Broke down and purchased the needed micrometers for measuring the journals and pistons. All the journals are in the middle of the range for wear as are the pistons. All it needs is new piston rings. The old ones had end clearances of .010" over the max. Did have to buy a Flex-Hone for the cylinders. The rings (Cummins) all had the end gap near the middle of the range when installed in the cylinder for checking the clearance. All the cylinders checked out OK, no more that .0013" taper and out of round and no ridge at the top. the head is out for a valve job. More cleaning before putting it back together.
#4 piston has a .060 dia steel “BB” embedded in the top of the piston. The “BB” also bounced around in the combustion chamber and left 2 marks there before embedding itself into the piston.
There was some lite scoring in #2 and #4 cylinders, but not enough to warrant boring the cylinders for new pistons.

[rang-a-stang]

What tha?! That BB?!

[scout4bta]

I knew that the engine had been worked on (over) in it's previous life, the idiots had reused a torn timing gear housing gasket and called it good.



Found out how deep they went into the engine. They had all the pistons/rods out for some reason. Found markings on the rods from a vice jaw where they had clamped the rods with pistons in a vice. They didn't just snug it up, no they tightened it with enough force to flatten the surface of the rods. Just wonderful. These are forged rods so I'm not too concerned. The two bright areas are very smooth.

[scout4bta]

What tha?! That BB?!

Had to sharpen a chisel to a knife edge to pop the BB out. Then cut the raised area out.