It followed me home,

[scout4bta]

My shop got up to 52℉ by late afternoon. (Too cold for me) Not getting much work done.
The weather proof relay box arrived yesterday, using them to switch the power to the trailer lights.
Factory wiring for lights is 18 awg, other than the headlights. Thanks Jeep.
Waiting on the AN fittings to arrive (this week?) for the 3/8" and 1/4" fuel lines.

[MysticRob]

Man, that's nice. You can travel all over the place with that fuel tank. Great build, really enjoy seeing this come together.

[scout4bta]

Thanks MysticRob!

[scout4bta]

Today was a good day.
Fabracated the vent tube for the rear axle and reinstalled the vent line with the factory vent cap.
The "hole" for the bolt is almost .5", the bolt is 1/4". Had to fabracate a spacer to fill the hole.
Cleaned the rear brake line and Installed the +2" rear brake line on the axle.
Removed the fuel lines and started modifiying the return. The main fuel line will be all new 3/8" CuNi (copper nickel).

[scout4bta]

Today was a good day.
Fabricated the vent tube for the rear axle and reinstalled the vent line with the factory vent cap.
Installed the +2" rear brake line on the axle.The "hole" for the bolt is almost .5", the bolt is 1/4". Had to fabracate a spacer to fill the hole.
Cleaned the rear brake line.
Removed the fuel lines and started modifiying the return. The main fuel line will be all new 3/8" CuNi (copper nickel).

[scout4bta]

The fuel line(s) are in. Still need to add spiral wrap in areas that might chafe and add a few more clamps.

[scout4bta]

Ebay wanted $21 for the fuel sending unit pigtail.


Some where internet found a connector that didn't look too bad but at $9,
no way.


So I made my own. Flattened a piece of 1/4" copper tubing around the pin size, bent it into a "S" shape, then drilled it for a #8 screw. Close enough.

[scout4bta]

Fuel tank is in, fuel filler, vent, main fuel line and fuel tank sending unit attached, ready for fuel. Decided to use a weatherpack connector for the fuel tank sending unit connector.





I know it looks like i have stock in Ideal Clamp Manufacturing Co, But no, all the clamps are needed on the fuel filler line to be able to remove and install the tank. It's my kludge moment.

[scout4bta]

A hole for the Air filter housing, From a Dodge Ram Diesel 94-02.

Top view:

Side:

[scout4bta]

Ended up having to lower the floor an inch just to be sure the air box would clear the hood. Roughed in, still have some pin holes to weld up.

[Heep-J4000]

One step at the time!

I did use the dodge ram air box to for my Cummins j4000 build.
Placed the airbox close to the front valance and cut a hole to have the intake air there.
I didn't use the jeep inner fenders but made to complete new inner fenders with a big step in them from front to back. (Still have enough wheel clearance)
Going to place the battery also above the front wheel near the firewall.

[scout4bta]

I've been brain storming the battery tray, how to support the 54 lb battery and not have it tear the sheet metal and fall through on the ground. Not having FEA (finite element analysis) at my disposal I opted for over kill from underneath. Not quite pleased with the support, came up short on the diagonal supports, literally. And I found out that I could have some tire to battery support interference. But I did remeasure the hood clearance for the battery and I have 4" from to play with. Contemplating raising the floor of the tray to move it away from the tire. I'm sure that the 2" spring lift kit will provide plenty of clearance but want to be sure.

[rang-a-stang]

That looks PERFECT. Your tire would have to be pretty stuffed up in there to get tire interference problems lifted or not...

[scout4bta]

That looks PERFECT. Your tire would have to be pretty stuffed up in there to get tire interference problems lifted or not...

I'm not welding the battery tray in for now just in case there is some interference later on. The "plan" is for 31x10.50 and 2" spring lift to complement the 1" body lift.

[scout4bta]

The battery box is in and welded up, minus 3/4" off the top. Found that the the box had a slope of 1/4" left to right, and a group 34 battery would have set level with the top of the inner fender. Cut out the offending metal and welded it up.