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84 Grand Wagoneer Revival

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  • My 73' j4000 already did have nylon fuel lines when I purchased it almost twenty years ago!

    Another option would be using rubber fuel line that is used with the Fass and air dog systems on the diesel trucks.
    Jeep "because mother nature hates flat roads to"

    http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=180974

    99' Dodge ram 2500 4x4 crew cab 5.9 Cummins ,backup work truck for now
    73' Jeep J4000 (named Heep or Desert Dragon) amc 360 V8 converted to LPG with T15/D20 (was my daily work truck for thirteen years and is getting major overhaul at the moment!)
    80' Jeep cj5 350 V8 Chevy/sm420/D300 project
    70/71 Jeep J4000 parts truck with Buick 350

    Former vehicles:
    85' Volkswagen caddy mk1 1.6 diesel.
    83 Toyota land cruiser BJ42 3.4 diesel.

    Comment


    • OEM rigid lines look good, so just replacing the rubber connectors for now.

      That is with exception to the riser from frame to carb, I will make my own rigid line to complete that part, as PO had rubber all the way tucked in behind PS pump against the block.

      Line was really "well done" from so close to the fire for so long :/
      '81 CJ5 Base, 258 I6, MC2100, T176 4 spd, 300 TC, D30 Front NT, 3.31, 2-Piece AMC 20 rear NT, 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift

      '84 Grand Wagoneer, 401 V8 (.030 over), MC2150 HA Comp, 727 auto, Selec-trac NP229, AMC 20 REAR - D44 FRONT - WT 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift

      Rather be driving, than waiting to be modified

      Comment


      • Update
        Replaced electric fuel pump on frame
        Hooked up fuel line frame to carb with temporary rubber
        Dropped rubber hose from pump to gas can sitting under the truck
        Hooked up jumper cables
        Hooked up timing light
        Turned on key and have good fuel to carb, crank it but nothing.....then suddenly timing light flashes on and engine fires for 2-3 seconds.....then dies with no spark!
        Took new ICM off and tested on Mongo228's CJ7 and works perfectly
        New coil tested on my CJ5 a few weeks back
        Distributor exchanged with known good one
        Checked grounds and all good
        All that is left to replace on ignition system is solenoid, and have new 5 terminal coming Saturday from BJ's

        UUUUGGGGHHHHHH :/
        '81 CJ5 Base, 258 I6, MC2100, T176 4 spd, 300 TC, D30 Front NT, 3.31, 2-Piece AMC 20 rear NT, 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift

        '84 Grand Wagoneer, 401 V8 (.030 over), MC2150 HA Comp, 727 auto, Selec-trac NP229, AMC 20 REAR - D44 FRONT - WT 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift

        Rather be driving, than waiting to be modified

        Comment


        • Look at the resistance wire too. I had a jeep that did the same thing. Fire up for a few seconds then die. There might be a small thread on this site about it, I'll look.

          Comment


          • Keeping that in mind for sure
            '81 CJ5 Base, 258 I6, MC2100, T176 4 spd, 300 TC, D30 Front NT, 3.31, 2-Piece AMC 20 rear NT, 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift

            '84 Grand Wagoneer, 401 V8 (.030 over), MC2150 HA Comp, 727 auto, Selec-trac NP229, AMC 20 REAR - D44 FRONT - WT 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift

            Rather be driving, than waiting to be modified

            Comment


            • I can only imagine your frustration! I would be, too! BUT you are soooo close. You'll be doing doughnuts in no time. I have nothing juicy to add. I would suspect the module also but you said you plugged it into Mongo228's CJ7 and it ran fine. I guess I would looking for loose connections too? Maybe some extra curse words will help?
              79 Cherokee Chief (SOLD, goodbye old buddy) https://forums.ifsja.org/core/images/smilies/frown.png
              (Cherokee Build Thread)
              11 Nissan Pathfinder Silver Edition 4x4
              09 Mazdaspeed3 Grand Touring https://forums.ifsja.org/core/images...tom/drivin.gif
              00 Baby Cherokee https://forums.ifsja.org/core/images...es/redface.png

              Comment


              • My very specific weird run condition was. It would fire up and run as I tried to start it, but would die as soon as I let go of the key. I would happen over and over. Exciter wire/ Resistor wire seemed to be the issue. I feel like I replaced the resistor wire, peeling it from a spare harness I had.

                Comment


                • Literally losing sleep thinking what is wrong is more my lane

                  Appreciate the encouragement!

                  Originally posted by rang-a-stang
                  I can only imagine your frustration! I would be, too! BUT you are soooo close. You'll be doing doughnuts in no time. I have nothing juicy to add. I would suspect the module also but you said you plugged it into Mongo228's CJ7 and it ran fine. I guess I would looking for loose connections too? Maybe some extra curse words will help?
                  '81 CJ5 Base, 258 I6, MC2100, T176 4 spd, 300 TC, D30 Front NT, 3.31, 2-Piece AMC 20 rear NT, 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift

                  '84 Grand Wagoneer, 401 V8 (.030 over), MC2150 HA Comp, 727 auto, Selec-trac NP229, AMC 20 REAR - D44 FRONT - WT 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift

                  Rather be driving, than waiting to be modified

                  Comment


                  • Spark issues are SO frustrating. I just had (and may still, but it seems a lot better) a whole bunch of issues, behaving like a vacuum leak, and I replaced the entire carb assembly, checked EVERYTHING for vacuum leaks, and it still ran horribly. Checked the timing and it was at like -2...reset it and it was better, still not great. Still stumbled, and it'd backfire and die if you stomped on it. Finally determined it was spark, checked on things, replaced the distributor brush, replaced the module, it still did it. Finally I got sick of it and called T/A Performance (Buick specialists for those who don't know), the guys I bought the distributor from. These guys who build these for a living couldn't figure anything out either, and finally I put the distributor, threw the points setup back in it (actually I never had that with this engine), got it all dialed in (finished that this morning), and I have to finish getting the Edelbrock all dialed in since it stumbles on acceleration, but it runs SO much better than it did--at idle it's a crazy level of quiet; pulling up to a stop sign I had to watch the vacuum gauge to determine that it was even running anymore. Never thought I'd say it, but this is the second time that points have saved my butt as far as the Jeep goes--they're annoying but darn it they work. Unlike my HEI distributor I have to figure out...

                    All this is to say--I feel your pain. Ignition issues are NO fun, especially when you check everything 12 times, changing one thing at a time, and it's STILL broke. You'll get it--and when all else fails, you could always try points just to get it goin'...
                    Current Rig:
                    '71 Wagoneer (DD)
                    B350/TH400/D20
                    open knuckle D44 front (disc brakes)
                    6-lug conversion rear
                    http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showt...79#post1734879

                    Previous Rig:
                    Tan '88 Grand Wagoneer
                    .030 over 401, TBI, headers
                    3" exhaust
                    31x10.5s
                    2" rear lift blocks
                    custom headliner
                    http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showt...77#post1734777

                    "The engineering side of me says that it's more than strong enough. The redneck side of me says that it's going to fall apart and I need to beef it up."--somebody I know

                    Comment


                    • The '84 never came with points, and distributor has tested good, so forging ahead.

                      At it again this weekend, with all hopes this will be the magic day it runs again after sitting 18 years.

                      Really a lot of old wiring to glean through, but have all new ignition wiring in place, so additional systems to verify.

                      Once it runs and drives, I will go through OEM wiring and update as needed, to ensure long life and performance.

                      Thanks for encouragement, and glad you have yours running better.

                      Not too many more days in your neck of the woods before too cold to fuss with it, so hope you get it dialed in for the winter
                      '81 CJ5 Base, 258 I6, MC2100, T176 4 spd, 300 TC, D30 Front NT, 3.31, 2-Piece AMC 20 rear NT, 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift

                      '84 Grand Wagoneer, 401 V8 (.030 over), MC2150 HA Comp, 727 auto, Selec-trac NP229, AMC 20 REAR - D44 FRONT - WT 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift

                      Rather be driving, than waiting to be modified

                      Comment


                      • Maybe I missed it, but did you try running a hot wire right to the coil?

                        Normally, it only gets a full 12volts while cranking.
                        Then, when you release the key, it switches to the calibrated resistance wire. The coil runs on 9 volts after start if I remember correctly?

                        Those wires are often faulty and bad.

                        This set up is for short run time. If you run a full 12 Volts to the coil long term, it will often ruin it.

                        I am not too familiar with HEI stuff... but the wiring could be suspect in any of these old Jeeps.

                        Keep at it! You will find the issues eventually.

                        Good luck.
                        It's not yours 'til ya bleed on it . . .

                        1977 "401" 'Da Chief
                        1979 Chero: "Madness" [Sold]
                        1985 CJ : Renegade -locked and loaded
                        2005 Unlimited Rubicon - Built
                        2001 XJ : Driver - 2016 JK 2 door

                        'Da Chief here: http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showt...ighlight=chief

                        Round 2- LT Swap: 'Da Chief:
                        http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=188457

                        "Madness" build here:
                        http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=89280

                        Comment


                        • Yeah, that HEI distributor has a weird problem that I can't find any reference to. No idea what its deal is, we'll find out though I guess.

                          I know the '84 didn't have points--short term you could get a points distributor and drop it in, just to see what it does.

                          If it only fires while cranking and cu4whln is right about the power, that would be my suspicion too, although I thought awhile back you said that you tried 12V straight to the coil.

                          It is indeed getting colder--Sunday is supposed to be the last "warm" day of the year (high of like 65). And with the XJ and the ZJ (have I mentioned that I'm REALLY not liking the 4.0L after all of the problems we've had with that ZJ 4.0??) down right now, and the 2wd collector cars going away for the winter this weekend, I HAVE to be able to drive it reliably...hopefully things will stop dying on it all of the time. It probably says something about the quality (or lack thereof) of new parts, all of the things that I've had to replace over and over again. Chinese or not, they really don't hold up--and that's really frustrating when the ORIGINALS are only just going out. Heck, with this points setup I'm still running the original 1970 AC Delco coil. With the Pertronix I tried higher output coils, all of which died or started to go bad within like a week. The Delco one is still fine. Whatever, gotta get the cars to put away cleaned up and put away today and tomorrow, and fill the tanks (to keep them from rusting).
                          Current Rig:
                          '71 Wagoneer (DD)
                          B350/TH400/D20
                          open knuckle D44 front (disc brakes)
                          6-lug conversion rear
                          http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showt...79#post1734879

                          Previous Rig:
                          Tan '88 Grand Wagoneer
                          .030 over 401, TBI, headers
                          3" exhaust
                          31x10.5s
                          2" rear lift blocks
                          custom headliner
                          http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showt...77#post1734777

                          "The engineering side of me says that it's more than strong enough. The redneck side of me says that it's going to fall apart and I need to beef it up."--somebody I know

                          Comment


                          • Well folks,

                            It finally runs WOOHOO........but now when I turn the key off, it sounds like it cuts the alternator out, rpm's go up a hair, and truck stays running for 15-20 seconds. Just as smooth as it the key was on.....UGHHHHHH!

                            Maybe it is so glad to be running it does not want to stop now?

                            There are no relays under the hood anywhere, and I do not see any under the dash, but oh my gosh, where do I go to trouble shoot this problem?

                            I will say, that 401 is sure thirsty. 1/4 of a gallon will let it idle in the driveway for about 20 minutes!
                            '81 CJ5 Base, 258 I6, MC2100, T176 4 spd, 300 TC, D30 Front NT, 3.31, 2-Piece AMC 20 rear NT, 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift

                            '84 Grand Wagoneer, 401 V8 (.030 over), MC2150 HA Comp, 727 auto, Selec-trac NP229, AMC 20 REAR - D44 FRONT - WT 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift

                            Rather be driving, than waiting to be modified

                            Comment


                            • Congrats !

                              Fix was ??

                              Is the power to the distributer ign switched? It should be..

                              Can't run if there's no power?

                              Becoming suspicious of your ign switch not working correctly..

                              ie - not switching off power as it should.
                              It's not yours 'til ya bleed on it . . .

                              1977 "401" 'Da Chief
                              1979 Chero: "Madness" [Sold]
                              1985 CJ : Renegade -locked and loaded
                              2005 Unlimited Rubicon - Built
                              2001 XJ : Driver - 2016 JK 2 door

                              'Da Chief here: http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showt...ighlight=chief

                              Round 2- LT Swap: 'Da Chief:
                              http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=188457

                              "Madness" build here:
                              http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=89280

                              Comment


                              • Seems just the right combination of wiring using some of the old with new ICM Painless Harness, and ultimately taking out the resistor we put in months ago, and had bypassed a couple times with no results.

                                84 Grand Wagoneer runs again after 18 years

                                https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_FjzprQNc6s
                                '81 CJ5 Base, 258 I6, MC2100, T176 4 spd, 300 TC, D30 Front NT, 3.31, 2-Piece AMC 20 rear NT, 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift

                                '84 Grand Wagoneer, 401 V8 (.030 over), MC2150 HA Comp, 727 auto, Selec-trac NP229, AMC 20 REAR - D44 FRONT - WT 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift

                                Rather be driving, than waiting to be modified

                                Comment

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