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  • #76
    Originally posted by devildog80
    Now there ya go cussin again, saying those FI words!

    Carb is the nice word

    And not a fuel pump for engine use, just to transfer from reserve to main tank.

    Same as a pickup with a service tank in the bed.

    Say I have 20 useable gallons OEM tank, and 30 in reserve tank.....if I average a road trip @ 14 mpg....thats 700 mile range.

    Light trail off road use, the reserve can be set up to put gas in my own rig, or into other rigs with an external hose.

    Must be the farmer/rancher upbringing coming through me again
    Cussing? AGAIN? When was the first time?

    You're willing to fill up other rigs? If you're not making them pay more for it than you did (I mean, they're the ones who ran out of gas in the middle of nowhere), you are nicer than I am. Unless it's your own rig

    14 may not be reasonable for a carb on a 401, especially with big tires and 4" of lift, and at this point no O/D. The 3.31s will help but not significantly enough to make up for all of that. I'd expect a solid 12 probably. But who knows?
    Current Rig:
    '71 Wagoneer (DD)
    B350/TH400/D20
    open knuckle D44 front (disc brakes)
    6-lug conversion rear
    http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showt...79#post1734879

    Previous Rig:
    Tan '88 Grand Wagoneer
    .030 over 401, TBI, headers
    3" exhaust
    31x10.5s
    2" rear lift blocks
    custom headliner
    http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showt...77#post1734777

    "The engineering side of me says that it's more than strong enough. The redneck side of me says that it's going to fall apart and I need to beef it up."--somebody I know

    Comment


    • #77
      Not feeding anyone for free, as there are ways to pay for stuff now, as long as you have a cell signal.

      Thinking more just enough to limp back to the pump, so nobody is stranded

      Not going with the "big" tires, as they serve me no purpose, so the 31's IF I do go with them, would be as big as they would get.

      Thinking more of stock all season LT tires, so keeping the torque values on the tires, and not on horsepower.
      '81 CJ5 Base, 258 I6, MC2100, T176 4 spd, 300 TC, D30 Front NT, 3.31, 2-Piece AMC 20 rear NT, 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift

      '84 Grand Wagoneer, 401 V8 (.030 over), MC2150 HA Comp, 727 auto, Selec-trac NP229, AMC 20 REAR - D44 FRONT - WT 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift

      Rather be driving, than waiting to be modified

      Comment


      • #78
        I like the LT tire route. I am not going to lift mine for now and will probably go with AT tires.
        Life happens while you are making plans...............



        1983 Wagoneer Limeted, 169k 360 AMC, NP 229, 727,
        MODS: 2003 Durango bucket seats:
        http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=159286
        Build Thread: http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=174925

        Comment


        • #79
          Yep....as my rig I want to build mostly for road use pulling our camper and light trail use.

          I want tread that will get more comfort miles traveling from home and back, but with a little off road grip, than airing up & down for serious off road traction.

          The LT are moderate grip, and higher plies for load.

          I have a CJ5 for the crazy off road stuff
          '81 CJ5 Base, 258 I6, MC2100, T176 4 spd, 300 TC, D30 Front NT, 3.31, 2-Piece AMC 20 rear NT, 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift

          '84 Grand Wagoneer, 401 V8 (.030 over), MC2150 HA Comp, 727 auto, Selec-trac NP229, AMC 20 REAR - D44 FRONT - WT 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift

          Rather be driving, than waiting to be modified

          Comment


          • #80
            Originally posted by sierrablue
            14 may not be reasonable for a carb on a 401, especially with big tires and 4" of lift, and at this point no O/D. The 3.31s will help but not significantly enough to make up for all of that. I'd expect a solid 12 probably. But who knows?
            Agree!

            My 401 got 8 mpg with 33s and 3.54s.
            Checked and rechecked this many times.
            The Gas Pig is what I called it.

            PITA as it is super hard to get the dam thing to take fuel.. which is required ALL too regularly !!

            I won't mention how I fixed this . . .

            Be cautious with adding an OD unit. Your drivability may suffer greatly.
            Gearing is important for balance drivetrain performance.
            Will load the trans more, which can result in heating the fluid.
            Heat is the enemy of trans longevity.
            It's not yours 'til ya bleed on it . . .

            1977 "401" 'Da Chief
            1979 Chero: "Madness" [Sold]
            1985 CJ : Renegade -locked and loaded
            2005 Unlimited Rubicon - Built
            2001 XJ : Driver - 2016 JK 2 door

            'Da Chief here: http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showt...ighlight=chief

            Round 2- LT Swap: 'Da Chief:
            http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=188457

            "Madness" build here:
            http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=89280

            Comment


            • #81
              Originally posted by devildog80
              This is the site for Dodge 727 3-speed info
              Dodge 3-Speed Auto - Gearvendors
              Go here for more info-
              info@gearvendors.com


              I put a GV in my Dodge Ram back in 2003-2004. I've had to replace it 3 times due to reverse going out. I probably would have changed it a 4th time but pretty much stopped driving the truck about 5 years ago. Lol. The GV uses clutches for reverse and the oil capacity is something like 1.1 quarts so changing the fluid when you're suppose to is critical. I'd rather change the transmission and tcase than put a GV on.
              1974 Cherokee S. It's driving but needs more work. As usual!

              Comment


              • #82
                Good information for thought, and that is what I was hoping to get, are the experience from those that have tried them....good or bad!

                Thanks and would like to hear more
                '81 CJ5 Base, 258 I6, MC2100, T176 4 spd, 300 TC, D30 Front NT, 3.31, 2-Piece AMC 20 rear NT, 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift

                '84 Grand Wagoneer, 401 V8 (.030 over), MC2150 HA Comp, 727 auto, Selec-trac NP229, AMC 20 REAR - D44 FRONT - WT 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift

                Rather be driving, than waiting to be modified

                Comment


                • #83
                  Originally posted by cu4whln
                  Agree!

                  My 401 got 8 mpg with 33s and 3.54s.
                  Checked and rechecked this many times.
                  The Gas Pig is what I called it.

                  PITA as it is super hard to get the dam thing to take fuel.. which is required ALL too regularly !!

                  I won't mention how I fixed this . . .

                  Be cautious with adding an OD unit. Your drivability may suffer greatly.
                  Gearing is important for balance drivetrain performance.
                  Will load the trans more, which can result in heating the fluid.
                  Heat is the enemy of trans longevity.
                  8mpg...was the speedometer adapted to the 33s? If it was still reading for 235s, then that could be the issue; if it was still off by 12-15% that would at least bring you up to 9 But if you checked and rechecked I doubt that was the issue.

                  Just some food for thought here, not going to push you one way or the other on the tires, but I used to be an all-terrain LT all of the way. Then when I got the '71, it had the P225/75R15 Hankook Optimo H724 whitewalls on it. Those are the equivalents of the Kinergy H735s now, and came in 235/75r15, too. I kind of figured that they'd suck in the snow and everything. Then last winter, B350 freshly put back together, I started driving it with them, and I was REALLY impressed. Since you're from ND you know what the snow's like around here; anywhere the body didn't hit I didn't have a problem going. Only time I got stuck (and trust me, I went through some unplowed lots that were drifted to 2.5' deep with 3' deep entrances) was when I slammed on the brakes on the icy backroad for a deer, and put it in the very steep ditch backwards. The snow there was up to the bottom door crease. They seem to do fine in the sand, and I haven't had any trouble with the little bit of mud they've been through. 1800 something pound per tire load rating, I believe, so on these more than enough for any towing you <should> be doing with these. So I've been super happy with these, and with the non-power brakes, I can modulate them REALLY well on the ice They do also offer a nice soft ride, look good, and are more aerodynamic thus get you better mileage

                  Oh I forgot to mention I got all of those places without even airing them down These things are stupid capable. I love it
                  Current Rig:
                  '71 Wagoneer (DD)
                  B350/TH400/D20
                  open knuckle D44 front (disc brakes)
                  6-lug conversion rear
                  http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showt...79#post1734879

                  Previous Rig:
                  Tan '88 Grand Wagoneer
                  .030 over 401, TBI, headers
                  3" exhaust
                  31x10.5s
                  2" rear lift blocks
                  custom headliner
                  http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showt...77#post1734777

                  "The engineering side of me says that it's more than strong enough. The redneck side of me says that it's going to fall apart and I need to beef it up."--somebody I know

                  Comment


                  • #84
                    Originally posted by sierrablue
                    8mpg...was the speedometer adapted to the 33s? If it was still reading for 235s, then that could be the issue; if it was still off by 12-15% that would at least bring you up to 9 But if you checked and rechecked I doubt that was the issue
                    Speedo was corrected and very accurate. 33 MT/Rs btw.

                    401 ran and sounded great, but used gas. Sigh ...
                    It's not yours 'til ya bleed on it . . .

                    1977 "401" 'Da Chief
                    1979 Chero: "Madness" [Sold]
                    1985 CJ : Renegade -locked and loaded
                    2005 Unlimited Rubicon - Built
                    2001 XJ : Driver - 2016 JK 2 door

                    'Da Chief here: http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showt...ighlight=chief

                    Round 2- LT Swap: 'Da Chief:
                    http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=188457

                    "Madness" build here:
                    http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=89280

                    Comment


                    • #85
                      As far as the overdrive goes, good info for sure. The D20 overdrive unit's big problem is that it can't handle much power (really torque is the issue), and the reverse/park function has to be manually pulled if you don't want it to roll away At least I think that's how it needs to happen at this point. They're interesting units...trouble with them is that reverse/park function. But seeing as you have the 401 I'd personally just as soon put in an overdrive tranny out of an XJ or ZJ; can pick up a whole salvage one of those for like $400 and get a good tranny out of the deal. Trouble for me is those don't bolt up to ETIHER the B350 or the D20...of course the flip side to THAT is that even from the factory they put adapters on either side of the tranny Anyway you get my .02 now.
                      Current Rig:
                      '71 Wagoneer (DD)
                      B350/TH400/D20
                      open knuckle D44 front (disc brakes)
                      6-lug conversion rear
                      http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showt...79#post1734879

                      Previous Rig:
                      Tan '88 Grand Wagoneer
                      .030 over 401, TBI, headers
                      3" exhaust
                      31x10.5s
                      2" rear lift blocks
                      custom headliner
                      http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showt...77#post1734777

                      "The engineering side of me says that it's more than strong enough. The redneck side of me says that it's going to fall apart and I need to beef it up."--somebody I know

                      Comment


                      • #86
                        I'd look for an A518 (727 with OD) from a 4x4 and see if your transmission shop can swap the internals over to your AMC 727 case.
                        1974 Cherokee S. It's driving but needs more work. As usual!

                        Comment


                        • #87
                          Encouraged by everyone's feedback, and good information to consider for sure.

                          Thanks and keep it coming
                          '81 CJ5 Base, 258 I6, MC2100, T176 4 spd, 300 TC, D30 Front NT, 3.31, 2-Piece AMC 20 rear NT, 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift

                          '84 Grand Wagoneer, 401 V8 (.030 over), MC2150 HA Comp, 727 auto, Selec-trac NP229, AMC 20 REAR - D44 FRONT - WT 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift

                          Rather be driving, than waiting to be modified

                          Comment


                          • #88
                            Since we have a 4.0L ZJ (and an extra automatic transmission for it), I was gonna put the 42RE out of that in the '88--electronically controlled, but the computer is separate from the main computer for the Jeep. They get a bad rep for being "weak" but really they're electronic 727s with an overdrive--any weak parts can be replaced with stronger ones, AND because they're for the 4.0L, they have the AMC bolt pattern so they fit the 401 right out of the box Not sure on the t-case...I wanted to put the mechanical part-time case from the ZJ behind it anyway.
                            Current Rig:
                            '71 Wagoneer (DD)
                            B350/TH400/D20
                            open knuckle D44 front (disc brakes)
                            6-lug conversion rear
                            http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showt...79#post1734879

                            Previous Rig:
                            Tan '88 Grand Wagoneer
                            .030 over 401, TBI, headers
                            3" exhaust
                            31x10.5s
                            2" rear lift blocks
                            custom headliner
                            http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showt...77#post1734777

                            "The engineering side of me says that it's more than strong enough. The redneck side of me says that it's going to fall apart and I need to beef it up."--somebody I know

                            Comment


                            • #89
                              Good to know, but if I go to an O/D transmission, I would be looking for an automatic that does not require a computer in any way shape or form. Just simple mechanical shifting.
                              '81 CJ5 Base, 258 I6, MC2100, T176 4 spd, 300 TC, D30 Front NT, 3.31, 2-Piece AMC 20 rear NT, 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift

                              '84 Grand Wagoneer, 401 V8 (.030 over), MC2150 HA Comp, 727 auto, Selec-trac NP229, AMC 20 REAR - D44 FRONT - WT 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift

                              Rather be driving, than waiting to be modified

                              Comment


                              • #90
                                I just rebuilt a Jeep AW4 for my XJ. Here are my thoughts:
                                1) It would almost bolt into your truck. Almost. You do not need any sort of adapters which is SUPER nice. they are super reliable, long lasting transmissions. The wiring they use is almost all self contained and factory Jeep (you don't need to run some sort of aftermarket crap). You can get a trans and transfer case for like $500. Change the fluid and spend a weekend installing it. Have your shafts extended/shortened and you have a 4 speed automatic (with lockup TC) for about $1200. all factory parts, all fully supported by McParts stores.
                                2) there is a write on here somewhere that shows how another guy did it. If I still had my jeep, i would have gone this way. XJs came with NP cases so you might even be able to keep your case/shafts.
                                3) I really think this would be the more affordable and reliable swap. Don't let the idea of a "computer" scare you. They are ALLLLLLL over the wrecking yards. They don't need any sort of tuning or anything. If you can deal with a Duraspark, you can deal with an AW4 transmission controller.
                                79 Cherokee Chief (SOLD, goodbye old buddy) https://forums.ifsja.org/core/images/smilies/frown.png
                                (Cherokee Build Thread)
                                11 Nissan Pathfinder Silver Edition 4x4
                                09 Mazdaspeed3 Grand Touring https://forums.ifsja.org/core/images...tom/drivin.gif
                                00 Baby Cherokee https://forums.ifsja.org/core/images...es/redface.png

                                Comment

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