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84 Grand Wagoneer Revival

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  • #31
    Slow speed trail riding - cooling advice.

    Not sure what fan you have, but an good shroud with an electric fan is the best for cooling and low speeds.

    Much better to adapt a OEM fan/shroud of some type generally.
    Those are engineered to have good airflow.
    Many aftermarket shrouds just don't flow air well.

    ( Note - I was a Jeep engineer for 30+ years. We tested many configurations and airflow engineering is a thing.)
    It's not yours 'til ya bleed on it . . .

    1977 "401" 'Da Chief
    1979 Chero: "Madness" [Sold]
    1985 CJ : Renegade -locked and loaded
    2005 Unlimited Rubicon - Built
    2001 XJ : Driver - 2016 JK 2 door

    'Da Chief here: http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showt...ighlight=chief

    Round 2- LT Swap: 'Da Chief:
    http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=188457

    "Madness" build here:
    http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=89280

    Comment


    • #32
      All looks OEM with shroud and clutch fan, which as designed I think should be just fine with this rig, as I want it primarily for pulling our camper on interstate to/from camp ground.

      Maybe an occasional light trail run, but nothing crawling around like I do with the CJ5, so thought allowing the heat out from above the engine would be helpful?

      Or...is the engine bay with hood closed and driving any speed it would cool best...as designed?

      Left alone and not venting the hood, the air will flow in from the radiator, be pushed back and down around the engine, then out under the body to flow away from the engine bay?

      Is this the same concept as back pressure in an exhaust system needed for the correct power and cooling for proper engine performance?

      Currently not funded for electric fan purchase, and (no pun intended) not a fan of going electric.

      I'm happy to leave it with clutch fan, just checking on hood venting before doing something that does nothing good, or detrimental to the truck.
      '81 CJ5 Base, 258 I6, MC2100, T176 4 spd, 300 TC, D30 Front NT, 3.31, 2-Piece AMC 20 rear NT, 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift

      '84 Grand Wagoneer, 401 V8 (.030 over), MC2150 HA Comp, 727 auto, Selec-trac NP229, AMC 20 REAR - D44 FRONT - WT 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift

      Rather be driving, than waiting to be modified

      Comment


      • #33
        BTW, did you get your engine to fire over?
        79 Cherokee Chief (SOLD, goodbye old buddy) https://forums.ifsja.org/core/images/smilies/frown.png
        (Cherokee Build Thread)
        11 Nissan Pathfinder Silver Edition 4x4
        09 Mazdaspeed3 Grand Touring https://forums.ifsja.org/core/images...tom/drivin.gif
        00 Baby Cherokee https://forums.ifsja.org/core/images...es/redface.png

        Comment


        • #34
          Not yet

          Turns over but gleaning information to verify wiring, and trying to recover from sinus cold...or something.

          Seemed I started the sinus thing when Pig showed up in my driveway.

          Stayed off working on it for 2 weeks, to see if that had something to do with my condition, and finding out I am feeling better.

          Lots of rat droppings in/around engine bay (power washed when it came home on 4-11-22), and 18 years of dust from a different area of the desert than where I live, has me convinced I need to mask up when working on it.

          Have a new start switch coming this weekend (thanks Mongo228), and cleaning will commence to get rid of as much of the crud I can, so we can revive this truck and have it for many years of fun.

          Found some wiring variables on another thread/site, will investigate that, and install new start switch with clean connections.

          More to come
          '81 CJ5 Base, 258 I6, MC2100, T176 4 spd, 300 TC, D30 Front NT, 3.31, 2-Piece AMC 20 rear NT, 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift

          '84 Grand Wagoneer, 401 V8 (.030 over), MC2150 HA Comp, 727 auto, Selec-trac NP229, AMC 20 REAR - D44 FRONT - WT 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift

          Rather be driving, than waiting to be modified

          Comment


          • #35
            Mouse droppings in AZ? Look up Hantavirus.

            I'd rather get the other virus du jour.

            Could hose it down with bleach but that's worse than salt for causing rust.
            Sic friatur crustulum

            '84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.

            Comment


            • #36
              Right....

              Was thinking of spraying it down with Lysol :/

              But if we get it running, maybe heat from running it will kill/clean out some of the cruds?

              I have some degreaser too I could try. Would pretty it up better for the kill.....said the spider to the fly!
              '81 CJ5 Base, 258 I6, MC2100, T176 4 spd, 300 TC, D30 Front NT, 3.31, 2-Piece AMC 20 rear NT, 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift

              '84 Grand Wagoneer, 401 V8 (.030 over), MC2150 HA Comp, 727 auto, Selec-trac NP229, AMC 20 REAR - D44 FRONT - WT 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift

              Rather be driving, than waiting to be modified

              Comment


              • #37
                UUUUGGGGHHHHHH!!!!!!

                Another day trying to get spark from the new coil, and now new start switch, with same results.....nothing!!!!!

                Took new coil off Wagoneer, and tried it on my CJ5.....popped right off....ok coil good!

                Checked spark checking tool on CJ5.....works perfect.

                Checked solenoid function on Wagoneer, against function on CJ5....same results.....its ok.

                Took coil wire off Wagoneer, and tried it on the CJ5. Different wire but jammed a wrench between them and CJ5 fired right up.

                WHERE'S THE DAMN BALING WIRE!!!!!!

                UGH.....took apart more disintegrating loom off the wires, to make sure we are tracing through correctly, and continuity tests are valid.

                Tested voltage again....ohms again......connections again.....splices again.....schematics again......tools and testers again......

                Mongo228 and I are at a standstill, where it is simply time to disconnect everything factory or otherwise from the start/run function, and start building back from scratch.

                No other way found out of the electrical tunnel we fell into!

                Thoughts anyone?
                '81 CJ5 Base, 258 I6, MC2100, T176 4 spd, 300 TC, D30 Front NT, 3.31, 2-Piece AMC 20 rear NT, 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift

                '84 Grand Wagoneer, 401 V8 (.030 over), MC2150 HA Comp, 727 auto, Selec-trac NP229, AMC 20 REAR - D44 FRONT - WT 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift

                Rather be driving, than waiting to be modified

                Comment


                • #38
                  When did it last run? Did you check compression? Maybe the rings are stuck and you have no compression? You have tried starting fluid? You verified the pickup in the dizzy if working?
                  79 Cherokee Chief (SOLD, goodbye old buddy) https://forums.ifsja.org/core/images/smilies/frown.png
                  (Cherokee Build Thread)
                  11 Nissan Pathfinder Silver Edition 4x4
                  09 Mazdaspeed3 Grand Touring https://forums.ifsja.org/core/images...tom/drivin.gif
                  00 Baby Cherokee https://forums.ifsja.org/core/images...es/redface.png

                  Comment


                  • #39
                    Have you cranked the engine over with the cap off to verify the rotor is turning?
                    79 Cherokee Chief (SOLD, goodbye old buddy) https://forums.ifsja.org/core/images/smilies/frown.png
                    (Cherokee Build Thread)
                    11 Nissan Pathfinder Silver Edition 4x4
                    09 Mazdaspeed3 Grand Touring https://forums.ifsja.org/core/images...tom/drivin.gif
                    00 Baby Cherokee https://forums.ifsja.org/core/images...es/redface.png

                    Comment


                    • #40
                      As far as I know, it last ran 18 years ago when parked.

                      There is good draw through the carb, and was said to have only 2000 miles on rebuild.

                      We did initially put gas in bowl and down the throat, but issue is no spark off coil.

                      We did check the dizzy is turning, but did not test the pickup.

                      Only checked wires and all look good.

                      We discussed it, but do not know how to check the pickup.
                      '81 CJ5 Base, 258 I6, MC2100, T176 4 spd, 300 TC, D30 Front NT, 3.31, 2-Piece AMC 20 rear NT, 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift

                      '84 Grand Wagoneer, 401 V8 (.030 over), MC2150 HA Comp, 727 auto, Selec-trac NP229, AMC 20 REAR - D44 FRONT - WT 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift

                      Rather be driving, than waiting to be modified

                      Comment


                      • #41
                        We did pull the MSD off, and all back to OEM with new ICM and new coil.

                        We checked, and have, full voltage to and out of ICM, over to passenger fender. Just do not get circuit complete through coil, with voltage to + side.

                        Checked coil ground...have good ground.....

                        WHY WHY WHY......... :/
                        '81 CJ5 Base, 258 I6, MC2100, T176 4 spd, 300 TC, D30 Front NT, 3.31, 2-Piece AMC 20 rear NT, 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift

                        '84 Grand Wagoneer, 401 V8 (.030 over), MC2150 HA Comp, 727 auto, Selec-trac NP229, AMC 20 REAR - D44 FRONT - WT 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift

                        Rather be driving, than waiting to be modified

                        Comment


                        • #42
                          If you pull the pickup connector, there are 2 wires. If you connect a multimeter across those two wires and crank the motor over, you should see slight voltage spikes as the rotor turns past the pickup. Its only a tiny bit though so you have to set your multimeter to (I think) millivolts.

                          That stock dizzy is a Ford Duraspark. If you look up "Duraspark pickup test" there are a few other tests you can run, too. I replaced mine a while ago and it was pretty cheap (i want to say less than $20?).
                          79 Cherokee Chief (SOLD, goodbye old buddy) https://forums.ifsja.org/core/images/smilies/frown.png
                          (Cherokee Build Thread)
                          11 Nissan Pathfinder Silver Edition 4x4
                          09 Mazdaspeed3 Grand Touring https://forums.ifsja.org/core/images...tom/drivin.gif
                          00 Baby Cherokee https://forums.ifsja.org/core/images...es/redface.png

                          Comment


                          • #43
                            Thanks, and going to test it.

                            For that much, not a bad investment in prevention

                            Mongo228 has an ICM wiring harness coming too, as that would eliminate the factory nightmare of random splices we found, to make sure we are dead on with connections.

                            Fingers crossed.....
                            '81 CJ5 Base, 258 I6, MC2100, T176 4 spd, 300 TC, D30 Front NT, 3.31, 2-Piece AMC 20 rear NT, 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift

                            '84 Grand Wagoneer, 401 V8 (.030 over), MC2150 HA Comp, 727 auto, Selec-trac NP229, AMC 20 REAR - D44 FRONT - WT 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift

                            Rather be driving, than waiting to be modified

                            Comment


                            • #44
                              Have some of the parts that came with the truck listed in classifieds.
                              '81 CJ5 Base, 258 I6, MC2100, T176 4 spd, 300 TC, D30 Front NT, 3.31, 2-Piece AMC 20 rear NT, 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift

                              '84 Grand Wagoneer, 401 V8 (.030 over), MC2150 HA Comp, 727 auto, Selec-trac NP229, AMC 20 REAR - D44 FRONT - WT 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift

                              Rather be driving, than waiting to be modified

                              Comment


                              • #45
                                Well........

                                Mongo228 and I replaced OEM - PO wiring for ICM with Painless Harness.....still no spark.

                                Diving into the distributor pick up coil, as this is the last thing not changed, but does test good?

                                Constant ohm's at 692 across outside terminals at the plug, but investigating further.
                                '81 CJ5 Base, 258 I6, MC2100, T176 4 spd, 300 TC, D30 Front NT, 3.31, 2-Piece AMC 20 rear NT, 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift

                                '84 Grand Wagoneer, 401 V8 (.030 over), MC2150 HA Comp, 727 auto, Selec-trac NP229, AMC 20 REAR - D44 FRONT - WT 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift

                                Rather be driving, than waiting to be modified

                                Comment

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