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84 Grand Wagoneer Revival

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  • devildog80
    replied
    The '84 never came with points, and distributor has tested good, so forging ahead.

    At it again this weekend, with all hopes this will be the magic day it runs again after sitting 18 years.

    Really a lot of old wiring to glean through, but have all new ignition wiring in place, so additional systems to verify.

    Once it runs and drives, I will go through OEM wiring and update as needed, to ensure long life and performance.

    Thanks for encouragement, and glad you have yours running better.

    Not too many more days in your neck of the woods before too cold to fuss with it, so hope you get it dialed in for the winter

    Leave a comment:


  • sierrablue
    replied
    Spark issues are SO frustrating. I just had (and may still, but it seems a lot better) a whole bunch of issues, behaving like a vacuum leak, and I replaced the entire carb assembly, checked EVERYTHING for vacuum leaks, and it still ran horribly. Checked the timing and it was at like -2...reset it and it was better, still not great. Still stumbled, and it'd backfire and die if you stomped on it. Finally determined it was spark, checked on things, replaced the distributor brush, replaced the module, it still did it. Finally I got sick of it and called T/A Performance (Buick specialists for those who don't know), the guys I bought the distributor from. These guys who build these for a living couldn't figure anything out either, and finally I put the distributor, threw the points setup back in it (actually I never had that with this engine), got it all dialed in (finished that this morning), and I have to finish getting the Edelbrock all dialed in since it stumbles on acceleration, but it runs SO much better than it did--at idle it's a crazy level of quiet; pulling up to a stop sign I had to watch the vacuum gauge to determine that it was even running anymore. Never thought I'd say it, but this is the second time that points have saved my butt as far as the Jeep goes--they're annoying but darn it they work. Unlike my HEI distributor I have to figure out...

    All this is to say--I feel your pain. Ignition issues are NO fun, especially when you check everything 12 times, changing one thing at a time, and it's STILL broke. You'll get it--and when all else fails, you could always try points just to get it goin'...

    Leave a comment:


  • devildog80
    replied
    Literally losing sleep thinking what is wrong is more my lane

    Appreciate the encouragement!

    Originally posted by rang-a-stang
    I can only imagine your frustration! I would be, too! BUT you are soooo close. You'll be doing doughnuts in no time. I have nothing juicy to add. I would suspect the module also but you said you plugged it into Mongo228's CJ7 and it ran fine. I guess I would looking for loose connections too? Maybe some extra curse words will help?

    Leave a comment:


  • 78 WIDETRAC
    replied
    My very specific weird run condition was. It would fire up and run as I tried to start it, but would die as soon as I let go of the key. I would happen over and over. Exciter wire/ Resistor wire seemed to be the issue. I feel like I replaced the resistor wire, peeling it from a spare harness I had.

    Leave a comment:


  • rang-a-stang
    replied
    I can only imagine your frustration! I would be, too! BUT you are soooo close. You'll be doing doughnuts in no time. I have nothing juicy to add. I would suspect the module also but you said you plugged it into Mongo228's CJ7 and it ran fine. I guess I would looking for loose connections too? Maybe some extra curse words will help?

    Leave a comment:


  • devildog80
    replied
    Keeping that in mind for sure

    Leave a comment:


  • 78 WIDETRAC
    replied
    Look at the resistance wire too. I had a jeep that did the same thing. Fire up for a few seconds then die. There might be a small thread on this site about it, I'll look.

    Leave a comment:


  • devildog80
    replied
    Update
    Replaced electric fuel pump on frame
    Hooked up fuel line frame to carb with temporary rubber
    Dropped rubber hose from pump to gas can sitting under the truck
    Hooked up jumper cables
    Hooked up timing light
    Turned on key and have good fuel to carb, crank it but nothing.....then suddenly timing light flashes on and engine fires for 2-3 seconds.....then dies with no spark!
    Took new ICM off and tested on Mongo228's CJ7 and works perfectly
    New coil tested on my CJ5 a few weeks back
    Distributor exchanged with known good one
    Checked grounds and all good
    All that is left to replace on ignition system is solenoid, and have new 5 terminal coming Saturday from BJ's

    UUUUGGGGHHHHHH :/

    Leave a comment:


  • devildog80
    replied
    OEM rigid lines look good, so just replacing the rubber connectors for now.

    That is with exception to the riser from frame to carb, I will make my own rigid line to complete that part, as PO had rubber all the way tucked in behind PS pump against the block.

    Line was really "well done" from so close to the fire for so long :/

    Leave a comment:


  • Heep-J4000
    replied
    My 73' j4000 already did have nylon fuel lines when I purchased it almost twenty years ago!

    Another option would be using rubber fuel line that is used with the Fass and air dog systems on the diesel trucks.

    Leave a comment:


  • rang-a-stang
    replied
    just FYI, when I did my 401 build I ran Nylon fuel line for my supply line. it was pretty easy to work with and easy to route. Plus it won't rust. Look into it! When I do my J4000, it will get all nylon lines, too.

    Leave a comment:


  • devildog80
    replied
    Yep, hoping to get back to it now for some fuel line fixin', so it can run on its own power......at least in the driveway

    Leave a comment:


  • rang-a-stang
    replied
    (Pop confetti) SPARK!!! WOOOO HOOOOOO!!!!

    Leave a comment:


  • devildog80
    replied
    I believe you are correct, same as the MC2100 needed an adapter for my CJ5 w/258, to fit correctly.

    Thanks for the tip

    Leave a comment:


  • 78 WIDETRAC
    replied
    I think the AMC 4bbl spread bore manifold has a unique carb mating surface design. Double check for gaps if you put a non-jeep 4bbl carb on it. It seems like an adapter is required.

    Leave a comment:

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