Rob's 1988 Baltic Blue & Tan Grand Wagoneer Restoration

[MysticRob]

The corrosion and surface rust on the brake booster had always bothered me. I tried to remove the bolts from inside the cab and from the pedestal to get the booster out and paint it black, but ALL the nuts proved impossible to loosen so I just took my wire wheel and some 150 grit wet sandpaper to the entire thing as it sat in the engine bay, then gave it a light coat of WD40 and white lithium grease to keep oxidation at bay:
PXL_20220114_215541709.MP by Robert Stone, on Flickr

[MysticRob]

The driver side wing window vertical rubber weather strip was in very bad shape, with pieces torn off it, but still very pliable. Got new strips and riveted one in last weekend. Passenger side was still perfect, so didn't need to replace that one:
PXL_20220113_171157614 by Robert Stone, on Flickr

[MysticRob]

Back to the grind on the old girl.
She developed a pretty bad transmission fluid leak recently between the tranny and transfer case when winter hit, and on the xfer case output shaft yoke securing the rear drive shaft.
Out came the transfer case out to diagnose and change all the suspect seals. This was all my own fault, as I should've put new seals in when I had the tranny and xfer case out to put new freeze plugs in the rear of the engine months ago.
Easily diagnosed a bad transmission output shaft seal that caused the really big leak:
PXL_20220106_015930266 by Robert Stone, on Flickr

Went to Napa and got the 3 seals I needed to ensure no more leaks.
Part #s as follows:

transmission output shaft seal = 19211:
PXL_20220107_213022029 by Robert Stone, on Flickr

transfer case input shaft seal = 19244:
PXL_20220106_222630168 by Robert Stone, on Flickr

transfer case output shaft seal = 18662:
PXL_20220107_200346245 by Robert Stone, on Flickr

Also verified the xfer case output shaft yoke seal was nice and pliable so cleaned it up, gooped up the threads with some gasket maker, and put the yoke nut back on:
PXL_20220107_201844197 by Robert Stone, on Flickr

[MysticRob]

Finished sanding, taping, and painting all the pulleys, and put the fan back on. Pay no attention to the distributor, it'll be replaced with a nice billet HEI at some point:
PXL_20211202_230002591 by Robert Stone, on Flickr

Alternator/AC belts were still in great shape, but were a bit loose, so I cleaned them, lined them up, and leveraged the alternator over with a long 3/8" extension to tighten them up. Power steering belt was cracked so bought a new one:
PXL_20211202_230652007 by Robert Stone, on Flickr

[SOLSAKS]

looking' good

[MysticRob]

Tackling more pulleys today. Water pump pulley was pretty nasty, had a ton of old oil and rust on the inside, so used my 90* cordless with wire wheel attachments to get in there and in the belt grooves:
PXL_20211127_233200360 by Robert Stone, on Flickr

The outside of the pulley:
PXL_20211127_233208229 by Robert Stone, on Flickr

Water pump still needs wire wheeled prior to painting. Both fan/alternator/AC compressor belts are in surprisingly good shape, power steering belt needs replaced:
PXL_20211127_233542798 by Robert Stone, on Flickr

Not sure the AC compressor even works, but figured I'd clean the pulley just in case I get lucky:
PXL_20211128_001033788 by Robert Stone, on Flickr

[Theodore]

Thanks, Rob - was what I was looking for. Once I get the lines/ connectors found/sourced, will be business.

[MysticRob]

Hey, Theodore.
The 2 hoses connected to the fuel tank and transmission you posted goes to the canister port just next to the capped port on the end, per the diagram.
I later reran that tank/tranny hose up the back of the block and over the valve cover to keep it away from the exhaust manifold, like how you have it.
From the looks of it, you'll want to replace those old nasty hoses too.
Use this to help:

Howell Vacuum Diagram by Robert Stone, on Flickr

[Theodore]

Looking for advice re: Vapor Recovery Lines

My original charcoal canister had a broken nipple on the far left raised cap so I bought a good donor from the salvage yard recently and installed it instead:
PXL_20210517_152556740 by Robert Stone, on Flickr

Hey MysticRob, I have recently found an original charcoal canister & am looking to add it back to my 1990 GW, but am unsure where the lines need to go. Am also running GM TBI, but all of the emissions vacuum switches have been removed. Can you say where the Dist & PCV lines are running to?
1. I see the PCV line has a splitter in it - is it running straight to the PCV on one end & PCV connection on TBI on the other?
2. Not sure where the DIST line is going. Am thinking I will need to run this one to manifold vacuum on the front of the TBI.

To add to the confusion, I have 2 lines - pictured below that run down the firewall to 2 hard lines that go to the fuel tank vent. In the pic above, you seem to have one going to your tank vent that is running under the fan box.

My tank vent lines:


Thanks.

[rang-a-stang]

Looks awesome!

[MysticRob]

good job !
2 more things out of the way.
dave

Yeah, still plugging away slowly, Dave.
I had a pretty bad tranny fluid leak, tracked it down to the band adjustment on the driver side, so took off the locking nut and put some goop on the adjuster threads. Not the actual tranny, but I circled the problem to help anyone else. And the adjustment procedure on it is to loosen the locknut so it doesn't interfere with your later torque sequence, then tighten the square adjustment knob to 72 inch lbs, then loosen the square adjustment knob 2 and 1/2 turns, then tighten that locknut back down while keeping the square adjustment knob stationary:
727_shifter_detail by Robert Stone, on Flickr

Also decided it's time to start taking apart the fan and pulleys up front to clean and paint. Fan wasn't too bad, mostly just 33 years of crud. Cleaned the nuts and bolts with wire wheel, all looks brand new now:
PXL_20211121_215833291 by Robert Stone, on Flickr

Cleaned this up with my wire brush, still in excellent shape:
PXL_20211121_215838580 by Robert Stone, on Flickr

[SOLSAKS]

good job !
2 more things out of the way.
dave

[MysticRob]

Been busy with other stuff lately but had a chance to finally get the "new" fender on.
Since I had to remove the grill to get to the 3 core support bolts holding the front of the fender, it gave me a chance to adjust the new TGW hood bumper set I bought a while back.
Also FINALLY received the new hood release cable lever assembly I ordered from BJ's back in July. We'll blame China and the ports for that.

The old release cable was rusted solid and broke out of the sheath, so I just snipped it into 2 pieces. New stuff in a bag under it:
PXL_20211115_162542250 by Robert Stone, on Flickr

New cable installed and zip-tied to the hood support rod. Rubber firewall grommet, cable, etc, all look like great quality, and the lever works fine. This cable is much more pliable than the old, heat-hardened cable that broke:
PXL_20211117_002317965 by Robert Stone, on Flickr

Refit the hood and tweaked a few things to line everything up. Grill and front bumper also back on. New fender looks much better than the old one!
PXL_20211117_002436075 by Robert Stone, on Flickr

[rang-a-stang]

PERFECT!!!!

[MysticRob]

dang, more fine work.....time consuming but man it is nice.
experienced help and another set of hands is really nice.

thanx for posting.

the interior wood decals at top of door look nice too.

dave in NC

Why, thank you, kind sir.
And to top it off, I scored this fender yesterday from a very nice guy in WA who agreed to drive a few hours and meet me in OR to swap cash for fender. This one, in my same Baltic Blue, will be replacing the black and disfigured one I already have mounted:
PXL_20211018_180550305 by Robert Stone, on Flickr