That's good on the wiring. Only thing I remember about Rochester was a cinder block shop building on the main drag (before the hwy reroute). Had a raft of Nash Metropolitans in various states of rust, most worse than eastern snow belt FSJ's. Wiife wanted one with a Toyota 22R with 5 speed transplant. Never found a decent shell in my price point.
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Art
ASE Master Collision Tech
"Beast" - 81 "S" W/T, 85-360, T-18, Lock-rite,wag alloys, 31-10.50 Pro Comp MT's, Warn 8274 in a fabbed bumper/deer strainer(tested and approved)
88 XJ, 3" lift, 31-10.50's, custom bumpers and winch/tow bar mounts, Warn 9500HS, custom sliders/steps, camo paint, & headliner
Member: FSJ Prissy Restoration Assoc.
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The dome harness had to be cut down because juice was not flowing from one end to the other in it's current state. I have to figure out if I'm going to use the LED light strips in addition to the factory domes.
I also finally received my gasket kit for the transfer case so I can seal up that pesky leak on the tail shaft housing.
I have to check the front driveshaft. When I seperated the front slip yoke things were fine, After I put it back together it is really loose. My plan is to remove the slip yoke again, clean it up and re- grease it. I don't want to just pump grease into it.
I took it for a short drive just to keep stuff moving.
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Driveshafts.....check the joints on the rear one. I popped one and replaced, got it home, and never got around to greasing it. Only whatever was in it in the box. Don't think I drove it over a mile after replacing.
The lift may have something to do with the slop in the front one.Art
ASE Master Collision Tech
"Beast" - 81 "S" W/T, 85-360, T-18, Lock-rite,wag alloys, 31-10.50 Pro Comp MT's, Warn 8274 in a fabbed bumper/deer strainer(tested and approved)
88 XJ, 3" lift, 31-10.50's, custom bumpers and winch/tow bar mounts, Warn 9500HS, custom sliders/steps, camo paint, & headliner
Member: FSJ Prissy Restoration Assoc.
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Originally posted by goldhammerDriveshafts.....check the joints on the rear one. I popped one and replaced, got it home, and never got around to greasing it. Only whatever was in it in the box. Don't think I drove it over a mile after replacing.
The lift may have something to do with the slop in the front one.
The shaft was fine even after the 6" lift went on it. It was only after it was pulled apart for the FSSR install.
I don't have a garage to work on it so I will look into it more if the rain lets up and my motivation picks up.
I honestly need to trust the sniper system and just bust out the AAA card if it fails on me. It also bums me out that I need to get this thing through smog up here. I'm sure it will pass but Damn! It's not a daily driver!
I'm also questioning if I put the timing chain on correctly, mostly because of starter kickback.
I just put it in the same position I thought the old one was in.
If I remove the timing cover to do that, I might install a new cam shaft. Stock grind or maybe an RV type. We'll see.
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I'm home sick today, so I took it for a ride.
The heater is working great the gauges are all reading properly, I really need to get these floor pans patched and get the interior back together.
There is one stubborn seat belt bolt in the floor that I haven't removed yet. It is a nice wet day, it helps me see the routes water is getting in. Mainly kick panel fresh air vents. I have them removed. I want to seal them up, but I know I shouldn't.
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LOOKS NICE!!!Chuck McTruck 71 J4000
(Chuck McTruck Build Thread)
79 Cherokee Chief (SOLD, goodbye old buddy)
(Cherokee Build Thread)
11 Nissan Pathfinder Silver Edition 4x4
09 Mazdaspeed3 Grand Touring
00 Baby Cherokee
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Seems like I threw you in the deep end of the pool. Suspect most of that was from sitting for 8-10 yearsArt
ASE Master Collision Tech
"Beast" - 81 "S" W/T, 85-360, T-18, Lock-rite,wag alloys, 31-10.50 Pro Comp MT's, Warn 8274 in a fabbed bumper/deer strainer(tested and approved)
88 XJ, 3" lift, 31-10.50's, custom bumpers and winch/tow bar mounts, Warn 9500HS, custom sliders/steps, camo paint, & headliner
Member: FSJ Prissy Restoration Assoc.
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Originally posted by goldhammerSeems like I threw you in the deep end of the pool. Suspect most of that was from sitting for 8-10 years
Nope Art not really. Rust or no rust, It's a sweet Jeep. I'm looking forward to the floor repairs actually.
I have backed off a bit on repairs, but Rang's build got me motivated again. Again thanks for your input on this thread.
I did get a new Albright style solenoid pack hooked up and the winch is working again.
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Another small update:
I picked up a motor from the classifieds on this site from a local member and super great guy. Thanks John.
I hope to get it on an engine stand soon to look it over. A ticking noise is why he removed it. Most likely exhaust leak. I pulled the manifolds off and will take pics and post of the old gaskets to get some opinions.
I really haven't heard a non exhaust leaking jeep until I used the remflex gaskets and these are the old style thin silver gaskets.
I'm no expert by any means, but I can pull the pan and check the bottom end.
The only thing I noticed so far is the number one plug was not as clean as the others.
The heads look great and the valve train is clean and tight.
I'm excited to get this in if it all checks out.
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The new to me engine is still in the garage. I have been tinkering with other parts of the jeep. I replaced the tailgate side channel gaskets. One side did not have any gasket, and the other side was hard as a rock.
I found that the rear window lift channel is loose on the ends, but solid in the center.
Would a bike inner tube be a good replacement for that channel gasket? any thoughts? I have used the one BJ's sell but it seemed too thick.
I cleaned out some more built up dirt and debris out of the tailgate.
I started folding and separating the floor pan channel at the inside door seam. Tedious and loud with a hammer and flat blade.
I don't have an air chisel, but do have a bulldog rotary hammer that would do the same thing with a good chisel bit.
It's nice to get some work done on it with the great weather we have had in the PNW.Last edited by 78 WIDETRAC; 07-08-2022, 02:25 PM.
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I tried the BJs one and it did not work for me either. Than babywag recommended urethane glass adhesive. I bought beta seal from Dupont on Amazon and it worked REALLY well. Put a glob down the center of the channel and insert the window. Done!
Btw, it is suuuper thick and tough to use but works really good.Chuck McTruck 71 J4000
(Chuck McTruck Build Thread)
79 Cherokee Chief (SOLD, goodbye old buddy)
(Cherokee Build Thread)
11 Nissan Pathfinder Silver Edition 4x4
09 Mazdaspeed3 Grand Touring
00 Baby Cherokee
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Originally posted by rang-a-stangI tried the BJs one and it did not work for me either. Than babywag recommended urethane glass adhesive. I bought beta seal from Dupont on Amazon and it worked REALLY well. Put a glob down the center of the channel and insert the window. Done!
Btw, it is suuuper thick and tough to use but works really good.
I'll do this. Thank you.
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A little progress today. I pulled the rear window and riveted the new felts in the gate side channels, removed the glass from the lift channel.... got that scraped out and cleaned up, next was to prime and paint it. I used the stuff Rang suggested to reinstall glass in the channel, adjusted the bottom stop, I also added a new rubber pad to the bare stop. a simple chunk of 7/8" heater hose.
I Decided to put on the slot mags, I need to clean them up a bit.
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