1981 Cherokee

[78 WIDETRAC]

I drove it around the block a few times this weekend. The sniper is acting odd. I need to read up on it again, and my alt is not charging like it should. It runs at 12.3- 12.4.

I ordered a temp tag from the DMV. I'll feel much better driving around with that vs tags that expired 10 years ago. I have to get it through DEQ to get the permanent tags. There is a power steering leak on the sector shaft. I need to get on the floor pans!

I'm also thinking about a 4" lift vs the 6". The gears are 3:31 and with larger tires it is a dog to get moving unless it's in granny gear. I've settled on 33" rubber that size seems to work well with the gear ratio pretty good.

[goldhammer]

I did have a Centerforce II clutch in it. Once fully engaged, never had a slippage issue.

[78 WIDETRAC]

I did have a Centerforce II clutch in it. Once fully engaged, never had a slippage issue.

Hey Art. Not a slippage issue, just the 39.5 boggers were way bigger than the gear ratio wants. I'm fine with that. 33's will be a great driver size. I'd like to drive it down to Lebanon at some point. I settled on toyo 33x13.5x15's on 15x10 steel wheels and dropping it from a 6"bj's lift to a 4"BDS. The winch bumper should level it out. I hope. Thanks for dropping in! I'd like to stop by and visit sometime. With the Jeep of course.

[goldhammer]

With the stock springs, I only had an add a leaf in the rear, 2" I think.

[78 WIDETRAC]

With the stock springs, I only had an add a leaf in the rear, 2" I think.

The rear height was good. That front bumper you built and the winch is Heavy!


I finally got the diff cover off by just using my plumbing channelocks. I figured if I can grip old galvanized pipe and crank it, the bite should be good on the rear diff bolts. I was right! anyone struggling with these round torx bolts, after you strip a couple just grab a good set of channelock pliers. I guarantee if you have any sort of grip you can get them out.


My Temp tag came in the mail today. It starts on the 15th. So right now I'm waiting on the rear diff gasket and new bolts. and a couple other things. I'm so ready to drive this thing around legally.

[78 WIDETRAC]

Minor update.



A look at the locker.






I finally replaced the rear axle gasket and refilled it. I added a different cover. I used a lube locker gasket and some new bolts. I also replaced the allen set fill plug with a 1/2" IPS pipe plug with a raised head.


Here are the parts and part numbers I used, minus the raised head 1/2" plug.










I almost didn't have an allen wrench large enough to remove the stock fill plug, I drove my work van home so I had my bag of random allens wrenches.





Done and full of fluid.



The silver parts above and below my leaf springs are the axle relocation block and shim with a spring plate from WFO. I hope to have my new tires on tomorrow. I got to quit buying used tires!

[goldhammer]

Nice. Can still tell almost new R&P.

IIRC the allen head plugs are the same size as the old GM disc brake caliper bolts.

I only noticed anything with the locker when on pavement in snow/ice. In 2wd, she would break completely loose and wiggle her tail. As soon as you locked the hubs and put the front axle to work, then it was on rails. The clanking on slow parking lot tight turns is normal, and will drive you nuts until you get used to it.

[78 WIDETRAC]

The front diff fluid, trans, got changed today. I used standard gear oil and one bottle of lucas synthetic for the trans. and just straight gear oil for thr front diff.



What fluid goes in the 208 t- case? I was almost empty and it looked like motor oil.

I thought all NP transfer cases took ATF? So I researched it a bit and apparently in 80-81 models the factory recommended motor oil. Has anyone ran it like that?



I used that and now It makes some crazy noise... Noise that was not there yesterday.



Art if you see this, what did you use?



I think I will empty it in the morning and refill with dextron just to see if the noise goes away.



Dave from N.C. I'll see if I can get a non driveway pic soon. Gas station maybe.


Another odd thing. When i go out to start it for the first time the turn signals do not work. (dakota digital dash). But after a while they just start working. That is weird. Any thoughts? I'm thinking ground issue or something like that. I still need to tidy the wires up in the cab. Maybe I'll find the problem.

[goldhammer]

As to the 208, darned if I remember what it used, but thinking back was 10-30, but not 100%. Hopefully others will jump in, or ask in tech. Edit, found a thread on fsjnet with an excerpt from the 1981 tsm, says 10-30. Seems that other makes called for ATF, as did Jeep later on.

Take a snack to the gas station. She was a real slow filler unless the nose was down. The plumbing is virtually level to the tank

[78 WIDETRAC]

As to the 208, darned if I remember what it used, but thinking back was 10-30, but not 100%. Hopefully others will jump in, or ask in tech. Edit, found a thread on fsjnet with an excerpt from the 1981 tsm, says 10-30. Seems that other makes called for ATF, as did Jeep later on.

Take a snack to the gas station. She was a real slow filler unless the nose was down. The plumbing is virtually level to the tank

It was 10-30, but it did not like it again for some reason. I put dextron ATF in and It's quiet again. Other than nasty old tire noise. Still waiting on my tires. They showed up tuesday, last week and haven't had time to mount and balance them yet.



Yep slow filler.... nose is up too... took 3 gallons fast the last 2 were slow. That was a quick $20.00 I might look into up-sizing the vent. I have to drop the tank to find the sending unit wires that are not hooked to the sending unit.



I'm bummed about that because I thought it was hooked up when I reinstalled the tank.

[rang-a-stang]

...I have to drop the tank to find the sending unit wires that are not hooked to the sending unit.
...

You should have an access panel under your rear seat to get to the sender. You can also see about 90% of the top of the tank if you remove the driver rear wheel and look between the chassis and body. Hopefully you do not have to drop the tank.

[78 WIDETRAC]

You should have an access panel under your rear seat to get to the sender. You can also see about 90% of the top of the tank if you remove the driver rear wheel and look between the chassis and body. Hopefully you do not have to drop the tank.

I looked in all of those spots. That's why I need to drop the tank. I can't see the pink wire!

[goldhammer]

Plumbing isn't much bigger than the pump nozzle. Maybe 1 1/4" at most, and level most of the way. Thought about a rereout at one point, but couldn't figure out a clean way to do it.

[78 WIDETRAC]

Dave form NC here is a local gas station pic.






I'm driving it further and further each drive. I don't have 100% confidence in the sniper yet.






I just got the new 33's mounted on 15x10 steel wheels yesterday. That is how it will stay from now on. I like it a lot. It drives so much better.

[rang-a-stang]

It does look super nice!!!