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Manual Window Lifter Install

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  • Manual Window Lifter Install

    I had to replace my drivers door window lifter today. I have owned several FSJ's by now, and I dont think that I have had one yet that didnt require that this part be replaced. So, I figured that I would show those of you who have not done it yet, how I do it..

    This is of course what you start with, one door with a window that does not roll up or down...

    First, you will need to remove the window crank, door handle, arm rest, and door pannel attachemt screws.

    Once you remove everything, you just have to pull down to get the door pannel out of the chrome trim. This is what you will find once you get the pannel off.

    Remove the vapor barrier. Then, you will need to remove all the bolts that are circled in red. The two pair of of bolts on the right (high and low) secure the window track which is part of the swing/vent window assyembly. You will need to remove these in order manipulate the window track.

    The pair of bolts on the left hold the window stop bracket in place. The bracket has to come out to in order to slide the window to the bottom of the door.

    Next, unscrew and remove the lock knob. After that, remove this grommet that holds the lock rod inplace. Once it is removed, you should be able to remove the lock rod from the door. This is required because it is routed under the glass.

    Now, you should be able to lower the glass all the way to the bottom of the door. Once you get it all the way down, you will be able to move the forward track over enough to pop the glass out. Once you get it out, rotate the window 90 degrees, and pull it back out through the top.

    Be sure to pop the glass out of the track towards the outer door skin. If you pop it out of the track towards the door pannel, you wont be able to rotate it. My helper thought that a second set of eyes was needed at this point.

    With the glass out, remove the old broken window lifter. Be sure to pay attention to which way the glass came out of the door, so that you can put it back correctly.

    The factory glued the lifter to the glass with clear silicone. You will need to take a razor blade (or something similar) to it to clean all that junk off. Here is what you end up with.

    I got my replacement lifter and lifter seal from BJ's Off-Road, if you get it elsewhere, the parts may look different. With the seal flat, I add a VERY SMALL layer of dish soap to the rubber. I then fold it in half (soap on the inside) and place it into the lifter.

    The seal is trim-to-fit.

    I then moisten the edge of the glass (I used a baby wipe). Next, you should be able to slide the lifter and seal onto the glass.

    Be sure to center the lifter on the glass to ensure full range of movement. Then place the window on a padded surface (I used a rubber floor mat on concrete) and hammer the lifter down firmly onto the glass. The lifter is slightly bowed, so you will need to start tapping on the middle working your way to the outsides. Once you get it on, its probably a good idea to squeeze the lifter tight against the glass with some channel locks or vise grips to make sure its tight.

    Once the lifter is firmly installed on the glass, just drop it back into the door, rotate it back 90 degrees, and pop the forward track back on. Then slide the window up until the slot on the bottom of the track is exposed in one of the holes in the door. Next, use the window crank to raise the lifter arm to the slot under the window lifter. Stick the peg on the lifter arm in the slot on the window lifter. Last, pop the window lifter clip onto the lifter peg. It is circled in this pic.

    Thats it... Your window should work like new. Now all you have to do is put everything back together.

    On the 1-10 grease monkey scale, with 1 being an oil change, I give this job 2 bananas... It only took me about an hour total...

    Good luck and I hope this helps those of you who have not done the job yet due to fear of the unknown..
    Last edited by Dmntxn77; 11-30-2012, 09:57 PM.

  • #2
    just a couple comments/suggestions:

    the factory never used clear silicone to hold any window glass in the channel; if found, this suggests a previous repair by ???

    the rubber strip or glass setting tape is what was used from the factory on all windows.

    an easier way to install the channel is to place the tape over the glass edge, place the channel, centered, over the tape, and use a rubber mallet to drive the channel onto the glass. Place the bottom glass edge on carpeting or other soft surface before installing.

    if should not be necceasry to "tighten" the crimp in the channel with pliers, once installed on the glass. This suggests to me a bad/weak channel in the first place, and could cause the glass to break.

    Excellent write-up and excellent pictures.


    • #3
      Pics fixed...