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Finally got ALL my door locks working!!!

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  • Finally got ALL my door locks working!!!

    Hey guys,
    I've hit a milestone...ALL 4 of my electric door locks are working now (up and down!!!) I know, its amazing; I can hardly believe it myself

    Prior to getting them all working, I went to the local car stereo shop and had them install an aftermarket keyless entry system...the parking lights even blink when I lock and unlock the doors on my 88!!! They tried to also wire in the horn, but apparently the horn doesnt work unless the car is turned on...oh well.

    For anyone having issues with either non-working or "sticky" door locks, here are the things I did that finally got them working;
    - I had to replace the actuators for the driver's side doors - front and back - I ordered the OEM replacements from teamgrandwagoneer.com
    - Even after replacing the actuators, the rear door would lock, but it refused to unlock. Solution: After trying MANY other things, I finally just removed the torsion spring in the door lock mechanism. Presto. There is plenty of friction in the rear lock linkages already to keep the locks from "falling".
    - The front driver's side door lock (after replacing the actuator) was
    intermitant. It would always "lock", but only occationally would it "unlock". This was quite the PITA since..you know, it is the driver's door afterall. Solution: First, I opened up the drivers side "switch" and noticed that the "up wire" was a little loose so I took some needlenose pliers and clamped it tight - this helped a little, but it still wouldn't unlock 100% of the time. So, I bought a "light duty" spring from home depot and rigged it up so that the spring was pulling up slightly on the actuator rod. Works like a charm now.
    - The rear passenger door worked fine for a while...or so I thought. Upon closer inspection, I realized that when I "locked" the doors, the rear passenger door appeared to be locked (i.e. the plunger went down), but you could still open the door from the outside. Solution: same as the other side - I just removed the torsion spring and it actually locks now.

    I found it interesting, that most of the advice on this forum for "sticky" locks is to remove the door lock assembly so that it can be cleaned and degreased. None of my door locks needed this. I actually did remove one of the rear assemblies, but once I got it removed, I realized that it was fine. After this realization, I checked the other ones by simply disconnecting the rod assembly and checking the resistance by hand.

    Hurray!!! Door locks!!!

  • #2
    YCB,
    Congratulations! You are step ahead of me. I need to tackle this job but I can't get the gumption up to do any work with the winter blahs....
    Steve<br />1986 J-20 360 cid/auto, trac-loc, custom efis tbi, flowkooler, aluminum cross flow radiator, rhino-liner, working AC. <br />1990 GW trac-loc, Engle cam and aluminum cross flow radiator.
    <br /><br />\"The best Jeeps came from the past when gay meant you were happy and Aids was an appetite suppressant"

    Comment


    • #3
      Thanks for the very helpful tip! I picked up some (4 inch springs) decorative plate hangers from the hardware store this morning and created hooks out out of the wire that hooks onto the plates and it works great. I'll post a pic later along with the item number. Took about 3 minutes to do one door.
      Julia Countryman
      Member FSJ Prissy Restoration Association
      1990 Jeep Grand Wagoneer (AKA The Tardis)
      A few pics here: http://picasaweb.google.com/10040474...0764102/Waggy#
      Building a new one, one part at a time

      Comment


      • #4
        GW: Door Lock Actuators

        Hey folks, I?m about to tackle my 1990 GW door lock actuators. They all ?click/work?, but some only open, some only close, that sort of stuff. I found this posting. Any other advice would be much appreciated!!! Thanks.

        Originally posted by YoungClayB
        Hey guys,
        I've hit a milestone...ALL 4 of my electric door locks are working now (up and down!!!) I know, its amazing; I can hardly believe it myself

        Prior to getting them all working, I went to the local car stereo shop and had them install an aftermarket keyless entry system...the parking lights even blink when I lock and unlock the doors on my 88!!! They tried to also wire in the horn, but apparently the horn doesnt work unless the car is turned on...oh well.

        For anyone having issues with either non-working or "sticky" door locks, here are the things I did that finally got them working;
        - I had to replace the actuators for the driver's side doors - front and back - I ordered the OEM replacements from teamgrandwagoneer.com
        - Even after replacing the actuators, the rear door would lock, but it refused to unlock. Solution: After trying MANY other things, I finally just removed the torsion spring in the door lock mechanism. Presto. There is plenty of friction in the rear lock linkages already to keep the locks from "falling".
        - The front driver's side door lock (after replacing the actuator) was
        intermitant. It would always "lock", but only occationally would it "unlock". This was quite the PITA since..you know, it is the driver's door afterall. Solution: First, I opened up the drivers side "switch" and noticed that the "up wire" was a little loose so I took some needlenose pliers and clamped it tight - this helped a little, but it still wouldn't unlock 100% of the time. So, I bought a "light duty" spring from home depot and rigged it up so that the spring was pulling up slightly on the actuator rod. Works like a charm now.
        - The rear passenger door worked fine for a while...or so I thought. Upon closer inspection, I realized that when I "locked" the doors, the rear passenger door appeared to be locked (i.e. the plunger went down), but you could still open the door from the outside. Solution: same as the other side - I just removed the torsion spring and it actually locks now.

        I found it interesting, that most of the advice on this forum for "sticky" locks is to remove the door lock assembly so that it can be cleaned and degreased. None of my door locks needed this. I actually did remove one of the rear assemblies, but once I got it removed, I realized that it was fine. After this realization, I checked the other ones by simply disconnecting the rod assembly and checking the resistance by hand.

        Hurray!!! Door locks!!!
        1990 Grand Wagoneer:
        Delilah - def: "White Lady (cocktail) with the additional ingredients of egg-whites, sugar, and cream"

        1987 XJ Wagoneer Limited:
        Desiree - def: ?Much Desired? [orig: French] ? Desirable Charcoal Gray façade, Wood-grain vêneers,and Tan Leather éssentials"

        Member, FSJ Prissy Restoration Association (FJS-PRIS)

        Comment


        • #5
          What are you calling a torsion spring?
          Jackie Jacob
          1977 J20, 360 4bbl, 4 spd, utility bed
          1978 J 10 258, 4 spd, 3" liftDD,
          1988 Wagoneer Limited XJ
          and a junkyard full of FSJ parts
          Jake's Full Size Jeep Junkyard

          www.militaryjeepers.com
          Carolina Full Size Jeep Club

          http://s255.photobucket.com/albums/h...eeps%20Galore/

          Comment


          • #6
            YoungClayB you are a genius! I removed/cleaned/adjusted and other stuff... And could not get the two back doors to lock. Until... I removed the small spring on each as you suggested and bam! ... They work! Just like the day it was delivered. I just stood-back pushing the button watching them go up/down. A thing of beauty. Thanks!
            1990 Grand Wagoneer:
            Delilah - def: "White Lady (cocktail) with the additional ingredients of egg-whites, sugar, and cream"

            1987 XJ Wagoneer Limited:
            Desiree - def: ?Much Desired? [orig: French] ? Desirable Charcoal Gray façade, Wood-grain vêneers,and Tan Leather éssentials"

            Member, FSJ Prissy Restoration Association (FJS-PRIS)

            Comment


            • #7
              I appreciate you for this one. I will try this. My passenger side door will not unlock with the OEM Key fob on my 90. Thanks!

              Comment


              • #8
                congrats

                My power locks work just fine, but the key locks are froze on Gonzo and I don't have the keys for Thumper, so I pulled the fuses.
                This was after I had to climb in Gonzo's rear window because I must have bumped the lock switch.

                Comment


                • #9
                  This post is worth it's weight in GOLD!

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    BIG thumbs up and Kudos. Thanks alot.............
                    LarryD
                    USMC Retired

                    Good Lovin', Good Beer, and a Grand Wagoneer. What more could one want?

                    1984 Grand Wagoneer My therapy
                    1988 GMC Suburban soon to be retired. . .SOLD
                    2006 Hyundai Sonata GLS/LX Wifes DD
                    2003 Dodge TD 4x4 long bed

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      SWEET! it can be a biatch (sp) sometimes
                      Abort? Retry? Ignore? >

                      86 GrandWag. Howell fuel Injected 360. MSD Ignition + Dizzy. 727/229 swap BJ's 2" Lift and 31's

                      88 Wrangler 4.2, Howell TBI and MSD - Borla Headers w/ Cat-back + winch and 31's AND a M416 trailer (-:

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Wow! How have I not see this post before?
                        Hopefully, this just saved me a lot of time and agony trying to get my door to unlock again.

                        Current Jeep Fleet:
                        1993 Wrangler Sahara (YJ) Stock, 52k
                        1991 Grand Wagoneer - [Black] 4" Lift, 32's, 92k
                        1991 Grand Wagoneer - [Hunter Green] Stock, 60k
                        1991 Grand Wagoneer - [Hunter Green] Restored (for sale)
                        ------------------------------------------------
                        Four Wheel Trends

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                        • #13
                          ABSOLUTELY

                          Great thread.

                          80 Cherokee
                          360 ci 727 with
                          Comp cams 270 h
                          NP208
                          Edlebrock performer intake
                          Holley 4180
                          Msd total multi spark.
                          4" rusty's springs
                          Member, FSJ Prissy Restoration Association

                          If you can't make it better why waste your time. No use repeating the orignal mistakes. I'm to old to push it that's why.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            I just went through all mine and found if they work too well they will lock on you when you close the door. Not a good thing if you hop out to check the mail or 100 other somethings and close your door and lock your keys inside.

                            Found most of the latch springs sheared off and clinging on in the grease so they still provided just enough resistance to keep the heavy pull handles from dropping. So when you clean out the metal pieces and lubed them up they would drop very easy Into lock position on you.

                            GM steering column blinker cam return spring is a close fit if you're good at minor modifications a clip here and a bend there will make it work it's thin to fit.

                            I got the BJs spring kit and the spring is very thick to fit between the moving parts and rubs and is very stiff. I broke one trying to Install on drivers door so I used the other one for the back for drivers. Very stiff, So much that I worry I'll break the key off trying to unlock it. I hope it breaks in.

                            I think honestly if you can leave just enough dirt in the mechanism and your old spring pieces, to where it doesn't drop on you, and the actuator lifts it smoothly then you'll have achieved enlightenment and a happy medium.

                            If your a perfectionist and want it clean and proper then your in for a struggle.

                            BJs off road has a tutorial to show you how to change these out on the website where you purchase the replacement springs.
                            Last edited by ShagWagon; 10-30-2016, 12:26 PM.
                            87 GW- Fitech EFI,Fitech FCC,Skyjacker Hydro 4" lift,BFG AT KO2 30",Dynamax muffler,MSD distributor,MSD 6al box,Blaster2 coil,ACCEL 8mm,.045 gap,Edlebrock perf 4bbl intake,Elgin perf cam,HD alum radiator,Powermaster 150alt,Alum HD H2O pump,Serhills tailgate harness,Cowl screen mod,Evil Twin grab handles,Rstep's custom AMC lock knobs

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